Growing okra is relatively easy, but I could use some suggestions. To preface, I like to have a few plants to be able to harvest a few small, young pods. Then slice & saute. (sorry, not into the gumbo thing!) The plants are tall and big, which is somewhat burdensome for the space I have. There are a couple of dwarf varieties, and I picked up 'Baby Bubba' (Burpee) off the rack, listed to be 3 - 4'.
Do you plant direct? (would be a month away for us when soil warm). Can I start inside? Do you soak the seeds?
- hendi_alex
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I usually soak the seeds and place between paper towels in a zip lock. But starting early doesn't seem to give much benefit. For me, the plants never start growing vigorously until the soil is very warm. When planted before the end of April, plants just sit there, waiting on the warmer soil temperatures. This year, I'll wait and plant closer to May.
- Gary350
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I lived in Middle Tennessee south of Nashville for 35 years. I use to sow okra seeds in a row 20 feet long directly in the garden. Middle TN gets on average 300 days of rain every year so the seeds came up in a few days. After a couple weeks I thinned them to 1 plant very 6".
After many years of experiment I learned to put 5" of peat moss 20" wide in the okra row and bell pepper row then till it in to the soil. This loosens the soil and the roots grow like crazy, plants grow several times faster and plants get larger and taller. Plants produce more okra and larger okra. Harvest every day before pods gets too large.
After many years of experiment I learned to put 5" of peat moss 20" wide in the okra row and bell pepper row then till it in to the soil. This loosens the soil and the roots grow like crazy, plants grow several times faster and plants get larger and taller. Plants produce more okra and larger okra. Harvest every day before pods gets too large.
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Some of my okra is doing fine the other is a bit questionable. Alot of the flowers will start to form and partially open up and then they all of a sudden shrivel up and a day or so later they fall off and no pod was formed. Any insight on this or advice? I have never experienced this with okra... I am also pruning the leafs as they fall off... So it no longer puts energy towards that leaf.
Thanks
Thanks
Bringing this back up! Update on my 'baby bubba' okra seeds. I planted in potting mix in styrofoam cups. They popped up within a few days, and flourished. Once up gave a couple to my son, sold some, thought I had a few put back for me. Oops! So started more a few days ago, popping up great. It's supposed to produce about 50 days.
If these do and produce, may expand horizons next season. Southern Exposure Seed Exchange has a huge (over 20) selection of okra, all heirloom. Short, tall, red, green and more. In looking over the shorter ones, there's Cajun Jewel, less than 4', 53 days, and Lee up to 5' suggested for limited space gardeners.
If these do and produce, may expand horizons next season. Southern Exposure Seed Exchange has a huge (over 20) selection of okra, all heirloom. Short, tall, red, green and more. In looking over the shorter ones, there's Cajun Jewel, less than 4', 53 days, and Lee up to 5' suggested for limited space gardeners.
- Lindsaylew82
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Hahaha!Re: Okra
Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:07 am
Okra was great in The Color Purple, but I couldn't stand her on that talk show. Oh, wait...maybe we're not talking about the same thing?
JayPoc
I plant Clemson spineless every year.( It's the only crop I till for. It just doesn't do well on raised rows.) I mixed clemson and burgundy a couple years ago. I plant 2, 40' rows, 2 feet apart. I crowd it in and have never had plants over 3.5 feet high. I still get enough to feed 20+ people (as a fried okra side) every Sunday in July, AND make several batches of okra pickles! I think the key to short okra plants, is overcrowding and abuse. If you can't do that, don't feed them too often.
Although, it might be nice to pick okra at 4-5' instead of bending to pick it.
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I know nothing about okra to be honest but it sounds like you need to pollinate your flowers. Use an earbud or a small brush to collect pollen. You can also collect on to a clean piece of paper. Use the pollen immediately on the stigmas so it is still very fresh.
Other reasons, though, could be water stress, high temperatures or natural dropping of flowers (I.e. not all flowers necessarily produce fruit).
Other reasons, though, could be water stress, high temperatures or natural dropping of flowers (I.e. not all flowers necessarily produce fruit).
- applestar
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I pre-germinated mine in a seed sprouter. Saved seeds so must be either Alabama Red or Clemson Spineless. Trying to use up old seeds -- I actually didn't buy many this year. But you are tempting me Susan! Alabama Red didn't get as red as I'd hoped. I liked Burgundy -- I bought overgrown seedlings one year for $1. Tried to save seeds but not matured enough that time.
These germinated in 1-2 days.
These germinated in 1-2 days.
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- applestar
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You said some are doing fine and others are not. -- are they all planted in the same location? Is there ANY difference in the way they are grown at all? -- sun exposure, lower ground (I.e. colder temperature or holding water), etc.?brandon558 wrote:Some of my okra is doing fine the other is a bit questionable. Alot of the flowers will start to form and partially open up and then they all of a sudden shrivel up and a day or so later they fall off and no pod was formed. Any insight on this or advice? I have never experienced this with okra... I am also pruning the leafs as they fall off... So it no longer puts energy towards that leaf.
Thanks