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Re: When will my potatoes have sprout enough?

weterman wrote: and a question about sprouting potatoes:

You're supposed to put them in the sun to sprout, right? But they turn poisonous if they are in the sun for a few days. So, I'm wondering how that works.
a couple things here:

potatoes sprout better in the dark. even better in the dark in higher humidity. not sure you really need them to sprout ahead of time in your application anyways, though.

also, you're not going to eat the seed piece, so the level of solanine in that piece won't matter.

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I agree. Pre-sprouting the seed potatoes is a safeguard against the cut pieces of potatoes rotting in the ground when the early spring soil temps are lower than they will want to sprout -- around 50-55°F.

...you seem intent on trying this, and far be it for me to stop you -- people have told me often enough that what I wanted to grow can't be grown, and I've gone ahead and experimented anyway with varying results. :wink:

But I just want you to read my first reply to you again and consider the implications -- if you start now and give the plant as much light and regular watering and fertilizing and care including guarding against pests and diseases as you can for the next 100 to 120 days or more -- that's in February or March when you could be starting seeds for things to be planted in spring and only a month or so away from the earliest spring planting for you -- you *may* or may not get a handful of small potatoes. With potatoes you won't know when they are ready to harvest unless you dump out the buckets. If they are smaller than expected/hoped for, you can't put them back to grow some more.

IMHO -- for your first attempt, something that you can watch grow and ripen to peak to be harvested will be more rewarding. :D

For a really quick/instant gratification, you may want to consider growing oyster or shiitake mushrooms indoors from kits -- that only takes about 6 weeks. I have a thread about that too.... 8)

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jal_ut
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I have never grown a potato in a pot indoors, however I have grown lots of them outdoors. I think it will make some beautiful foliage if given plenty of light, however do not expect to get much in the line of tubers from it. If it is tubers for eating you want, you are wasting your time.

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If I presprout "chitting" I do it similar to this.
[youtudotbe]https://youtu.be/jC0lPRz302Q[/youtudotbe]


Growing food indoors, not greenhouse, is neither practical nor financially wise. Sure you can grow some food and it may be fun or a learning experience but I ask at what cost.


Eric

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rainbowgardener
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At what cost, indeed. To have the light needed to have even a chance of getting tubers, meaning the top and side lights Applestar mentioned, will be a significant energy draw.

I always feel bad about the amount of power I use in my seed starting operation. Fortunately all 16 of the fluorescent tubes + 2 heat mats are not on at once for more than a few weeks. Seed starting starts small in Jan and gradually expands and turns on more lights. But about the time the whole thing is full and all the lights are on, more stuff can be going out and it gradually downsizes again as more and more goes out. Still....

I am really hoping to switch to LED lighting one of these years and cut down power usage.

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rainbowgardener wrote:At what cost, indeed. To have the light needed to have even a chance of getting tubers, meaning the top and side lights Applestar mentioned, will be a significant energy draw.

I always feel bad about the amount of power I use in my seed starting operation. Fortunately all 16 of the fluorescent tubes + 2 heat mats are not on at once for more than a few weeks. Seed starting starts small in Jan and gradually expands and turns on more lights. But about the time the whole thing is full and all the lights are on, more stuff can be going out and it gradually downsizes again as more and more goes out. Still....

I am really hoping to switch to LED lighting one of these years and cut down power usage.
Rainbow, IMO not the same. You are starting hundreds of plants that absorb most if not all energy cost. If inputs are more than outputs we can not survive.

I know this is off topic. I'm just saying we can't grow $5.00 tomatoes.

Eric

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As I stated above I would not be the one to discourage this kind of experiment if experience didn't foresee an outcome that may prove disappointing... And my conscience dictated at least mentioning/warning.

I wouldn't say impossible -- depends on how much time and energy (personal as well as power energy being discussed) willing to expend. I would grow multiple buckets to be able to dump as harvest test. Likely require more than one winter's results to gain sufficient experience to improve techniques -- requirements may turn out to be more than willing/able to do... Or not. :wink:

BUT... You can't put a price tag on this kind of enthusiasm, curiosity, learning experience... FUN. Indoor plants could improve air quality, exposure to bright lights counter the winter blues, etc. etc. Personally I've grown plants in the house since I was a teenager. Houseplants for the most part -- some that only flower once a year for a very short time, some that do nothing. Compared to that, I find growing edibles much more rewarding, especially lately. :mrgreen:

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applestar wrote:
applestar wrote:Fluorescent 10" clamp on light with CFL (swirly) bulb or shoplight fixture can provide the light if adjusted to a few inches above the foliage at all times but you will need lights from the side as well as above when the plants grow taller.
I use 26W (sometimes called t-4 and has 4 loops) 6500K daylight bulb for the clamp light and 6500K daylight tubes in the shoplight. CFL bulbs also come in brighter wattages but are harder to find and only a few more sizes higher will fit in regular light socket. For the shop light, T-5 tubes needing special T-5 fixtures are brightest (and hottest -- will burn foliage if in contact just like CFL's) and can/should be 3-5 inches above the foliage, T-8 tubes are next brightest and can/should be 2-3 inches above the foliage. Older T-12 tubes should only be 1-2 inches above the foliage and it is cool enough that the foliage can touch the tubes without burning.

If you want use the lamp in your photo, take a look at my DIY modification of a bedside lamp here :wink:
:arrow: https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... 97#p283997
You need a reflector that directs most of the light to the plant and not waste it everywhere else. Adding an extender socket and Y-adapter like this doubles the light output of a lamp. CFL's use lower wattage than incandescents so this shouldn't overload the socket.
ok, um I'm not a light bulb expert, so I didnt understand anything you said. can you just answer: Will the older light bulb, or the swirly one work better for growing my plant?

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applestar wrote:As I stated above I would not be the one to discourage this kind of experiment if experience didn't foresee an outcome that may prove disappointing... And my conscience dictated at least mentioning/warning.

I wouldn't say impossible -- depends on how much time and energy (personal as well as power energy being discussed) willing to expend. I would grow multiple buckets to be able to dump as harvest test. Likely require more than one winter's results to gain sufficient experience to improve techniques -- requirements may turn out to be more than willing/able to do... Or not. :wink:

BUT... You can't put a price tag on this kind of enthusiasm, curiosity, learning experience... FUN. Indoor plants could improve air quality, exposure to bright lights counter the winter blues, etc. etc. Personally I've grown plants in the house since I was a teenager. Houseplants for the most part -- some that only flower once a year for a very short time, some that do nothing. Compared to that, I find growing edibles much more rewarding, especially lately. :mrgreen:
I'm 15 btw


and I am not growing just for potatoes to eat, I'm growing cause I'm bored, and I want to try and get some fruits on there so I can get the seeds from it, and try planting them.

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jal_ut
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OK, sounds like a fun experiment. Have fun!

On the light, look to see if you can find a wattage rating. Use the one with the highest wattage number.

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jal_ut wrote:OK, sounds like a fun experiment. Have fun!

On the light, look to see if you can find a wattage rating. Use the one with the highest wattage number.
ok thanks

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"Older light bulb" = incandescent bulb
"swirly light bulb" = CFL (Compact FLuorescent) bulb

For growing plants, CFL is better because they don't get as hot as incandescents and won't burn the leaves when you position them as close as they need to be. There is usually a wattage equivalent on the front of the package. Look on the back of the packages and base of the bulbs for K rating (color) and Lumens (brightness). Brighter the better (100w equivalent or higher).

FWIW -- I didn't know all these terms either 3 yrs ago. Someone else posted in technobabble and I became curious enough to look them up.

Like I always tell my 14 yr old -- You kids have it so easy... If you don't understand any word or know what something is, just look it up with Google (or Bing) or any internet search engine. :wink:

-- My daughter just needs help with the spelling if she gets it so wrong that even the search engine can't give her back the correct spelling.... (Grrr -- growling in frustration) Mama! how do you spell [.....]!!!!????

...words you see here, you can just copy-and-paste :D

BTW, if you are curious about potato fruits and seeds, look for TPS (True Potato Seed) sticky thread at the top of Seed Starting Forum, and run a search in the forum search bar at the top of the page. It's been discussed in several previous threads. (lighting has been discussed in depth here too) You may need to adjust the K rating of the lights to encourage blooming later, but that's later. You will need a lot of light. The one lamp is likely not enough.

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Other readily available things you could try growing for fun -- Plant in loose soil -- 1/3 sand, 2/3 garden soil in well draining container with holes punched or slits cut in the bottom and sides.

- Onion and garlic bottoms -- cut away and save a cone or pyramid shaped piece with dried roots or hard knob attached from the base of an onion or garlic. Snuggle in the soil until barely or almost covered in soil. Put on south or west windowsill. Cold is OK. Water and keep the soil moist, letting the surface dry in between. (1 pint-qt size berry containers, yogurt/ricotta cheese/sour cream containers ) You can trim the greens as they grow and eat with baked potato, etc. like chives.

- Dried whole peas can be planted and grown on winter south facing windowsill. ( You need to plant in at least a 1/2 gallon milk carton or soda bottle to get any amount of peas. 1 gal is better. )

- Dried beans will grow if planted and kept warm 60°F or above with plenty of light -- windowsill is probably too cold. ( You need to plant in at least a 1/2 gallon milk carton or soda bottle to get any amount of beans. 1 gal is better. )

- Apple and citrus (orange, grapefruit, lemon) seeds will sprout in about a month. South or west facing window. ( 1 qt size container. ) Tree seedlings won't grow to fruit bearing size for 7-15 yrs, and even then may not bear fruits like the original fruit due to cross pollination.

- Seeds of ripe tomatoes are relatively easy to save and grow but you will need to provide supplemental bright light. 70°F+ to sprout, then immediately place under bright lights. After first pair of true leaves, they can grow in as low as 55°F or warmer temp. ( Sow seeds in pint size berry or dairy containers and uppot to individual containers as they grow. If grown to full size, non-dwarf varieties will need at least 5-10 gal containers. We normally start tomato seeds about 8 weeks before last average frost date so they are almost too big in pint size containers by a week after last frost when they can be planted outside in the garden. )

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thanks, I have another question, should I place sprout facing down, or sprout facing up?

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Up

Eric

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DoubleDogFarm wrote:Up

Eric
ight

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If it works for you, with or without tubers, it should be fun. Potatoes are actually quite ornamental plants. Since they don't grow great in containers for me, I'm thinking about finding a flower bed I could plant a few in. They would blend in nicely. If they flower (for me in container, they sometimes have and sometimes just died back without ever flowering), the flowers are really pretty.

But just out of curiosity, how did you pick potatoes to experiment with?

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But just out of curiosity, how did you pick potatoes to experiment with?
weterman is trying to harvest TPS to experiment with. Up a couple post. :wink:

Eric

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rainbowgardener wrote:If it works for you, with or without tubers, it should be fun. Potatoes are actually quite ornamental plants. Since they don't grow great in containers for me, I'm thinking about finding a flower bed I could plant a few in. They would blend in nicely. If they flower (for me in container, they sometimes have and sometimes just died back without ever flowering), the flowers are really pretty.

But just out of curiosity, how did you pick potatoes to experiment with?

I used potatoes that already grew in the garden this year.

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DoubleDogFarm wrote:
But just out of curiosity, how did you pick potatoes to experiment with?
weterman is trying to harvest TPS to experiment with. Up a couple post. :wink:

Eric
thats why I'm growing it, so I can have the seeds. I don't have any tps, I only ate a fruit or 2. the juice tastes bad, but the not juice part taste like rubarb.

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weterman wrote:
DoubleDogFarm wrote:
But just out of curiosity, how did you pick potatoes to experiment with?
weterman is trying to harvest TPS to experiment with. Up a couple post. :wink:

Eric
thats why I'm growing it, so I can have the seeds. I don't have any tps, I only ate a fruit or 2. the juice tastes bad, but the not juice part taste like rubarb.

I planted the potato now. now I wait

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how much should I water? everyday?

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Probably not. Watering potatoes in a container is tricky. Too much water and they rot out, but they need to stay slightly damp most of the time. For indoor growing, I would try the bonsai chopstick method. Leave a chopstick stuck down into it. Check it every day. If the chopstick is dry when you pull it out, water. When you do water, be sure you water until water comes out the drain holes. Your seed potatoes are down near the bottom, so the whole soil has to be moistened.

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rainbowgardener wrote:Probably not. Watering potatoes in a container is tricky. Too much water and they rot out, but they need to stay slightly damp most of the time. For indoor growing, I would try the bonsai chopstick method. Leave a chopstick stuck down into it. Check it every day. If the chopstick is dry when you pull it out, water. When you do water, be sure you water until water comes out the drain holes. Your seed potatoes are down near the bottom, so the whole soil has to be moistened.

uh my potato isnt near the bottom, its near the top. should I plant it in deeper?

and I just dug in up, its been in there for about a week. and the sprout doesnt look any different. is this normal?

the potato is about the size of a golf ball, so I didnt cut it.

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Yeah I've been worrying since yesterday that we didn't cover how to plant.

New potatoes grow along the underground stem that grows ABOVE the seed potato, so yes, you should really empty the bucket down to about 6"-8" of soil mix and plant the seed potato just under the soil. Then as the plant grows, add more soil mix maybe mixed with leaves or hay, all the way to top of the bucket. You will probably need support for the rest of the plant as it grows even taller, so you may need something like a tomato cage or four bamboo stakes and twine... But that will be later. You will need to get the light as close as you can to the top of the foliage so support system will be in the way at first.

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thats why I'm growing it, so I can have the seeds. I don't have any tps, I only ate a fruit or 2. the juice tastes bad, but the not juice part taste like rubarb
Alright will someonw please address this!!


Eric

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applestar wrote:Yeah I've been worrying since yesterday that we didn't cover how to plant.

New potatoes grow along the underground stem that grows ABOVE the seed potato, so yes, you should really empty the bucket down to about 6"-8" of soil mix and plant the seed potato just under the soil. Then as the plant grows, add more soil mix maybe mixed with leaves or hay, all the way to top of the bucket. You will probably need support for the rest of the plant as it grows even taller, so you may need something like a tomato cage or four bamboo stakes and twine... But that will be later. You will need to get the light as close as you can to the top of the foliage so support system will be in the way at first.
ok ill do that.

but is it normal for nothing to happen after a week? I would think that the sprout would be a little longer after a week.

and I should water it until water drips through my holes at the bottom? and it wont drown it?

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Once planted, it will be growing roots at first so it's normal for nothing to show up above ground. In fact when you plant it in the ground outside in spring while the ground is barely warm enough, absolutely nothing seems to happen for about 3 weeks. Remember, the soil temperature needs to be 55°F or warmer. (get a thermometer to keep track of the ambient temperature and position it at soil height above the floor, not at eye level.)

As long as the soil mix is well draining and you have put plenty of drainage holes in the bucket, watering as described won't drown the seed potato. As the water percolates down, air is drawn through the soil from above, BUT you must make sure not to let the bucket sit in the drained water which prevents this process. Assuming you have some kind of catch tray underneath, you may want to elevate the bucket on some rocks, empty tuna cans, etc.

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DoubleDogFarm wrote:
thats why I'm growing it, so I can have the seeds. I don't have any tps, I only ate a fruit or 2. the juice tastes bad, but the not juice part taste like rubarb
Alright will someonw please address this!!


Eric
feel free, it didn't quite make sense to me. But I assume you are talking about this:

Potato Fruits Are Toxic, Despite Looking Like Green Cherry Tomatoes
Potato fruits are high in solanine, a substance that is toxic to humans, particularly children. Potato fruits should not be eaten raw or cooked, no matter how much they look like tomatoes!
https://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/weeklypics/8-10-09.html

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applestar wrote:Assuming you have some kind of catch tray underneath, you may want to elevate the bucket on some rocks, empty tuna cans, etc.
ok I put something under them, it gives about half a centimeter from the ground. that good enough?

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rainbowgardener wrote:
DoubleDogFarm wrote:
thats why I'm growing it, so I can have the seeds. I don't have any tps, I only ate a fruit or 2. the juice tastes bad, but the not juice part taste like rubarb
Alright will someonw please address this!!


Eric
feel free, it didn't quite make sense to me. But I assume you are talking about this:

Potato Fruits Are Toxic, Despite Looking Like Green Cherry Tomatoes
Potato fruits are high in solanine, a substance that is toxic to humans, particularly children. Potato fruits should not be eaten raw or cooked, no matter how much they look like tomatoes!
https://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/weeklypics/8-10-09.html

ok thats why I felt real messed up that day : P

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ok I just poured a cup full of water in there, and the water sat on top for a little bit, and then it sunk down. a bit after I felt under one of the holes, and it was a tiny bit wet. is my water draining good enough?

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One cup isn't nearly enough water for a 5 gallon bucket of soil. Try 4 cups and that might still possibly not be enough. You need to get all that soil moistened and then it should be running out the bottom. You want to be generous with water and then not water it again until the chopstick is drying out.

As was stated let the water run out the bottom and then drain it, don't let your pot sit in the water.

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rainbowgardener wrote:One cup isn't nearly enough water for a 5 gallon bucket of soil. Try 4 cups and that might still possibly not be enough. You need to get all that soil moistened and then it should be running out the bottom. You want to be generous with water and then not water it again until the chopstick is drying out.

As was stated let the water run out the bottom and then drain it, don't let your pot sit in the water.
ok the water was draining out the holes.

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My son has been experimenting with true potato seeds. It seems that if you plant seeds for two or three generations, the plants then seem to put on more fruit. I guess they have been propagated from tubers for so long that the fruit end of it has been neglected.

If you want to search for new and interesting varieties, then starting from seed is the way to go. This way you can get some genetic diversity and perhaps an interesting cultivar will show up. When you see something you like, then propagate it from tubers for a couple of years.

Image

Here are some of my son's taters grown from seed. Notice that in some of the cups he also included the fruit of the plant?

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I haven't personally grown potatoes from seed, however if you want to do so, start the seeds like you would start your tomato seeds. The culture is the same. Put transplants out when danger of frost is past.

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As noted, potato seed/fruit is poisonous. Do Not Eat.

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jal_ut wrote:As noted, potato seed/fruit is poisonous. Do Not Eat.
gotchya

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So weterman, last we heard from you was weeks ago. Are there any potato plants yet?

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rainbowgardener wrote:So weterman, last we heard from you was weeks ago. Are there any potato plants yet?
no, should there be already?

I have a question, though. will the plant pop up without light? or would it need the light to come out of the ground?



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