I have heard that
butternut squash is a winter keeper and is the kind that tastes better after about a monthof storage. Winter keeper squash should be stored in warm dry place with air circulation.
This year when I was clearing the
corn stalks after they were done, I was impressed by the 3ft leaves and was thinking that jal_ut's insistence that you leave 30" between corn rows makes sense since I always think plants grow root systems that are at least as wide as their leaves span. I would imagine that any closer requires more nutrients. Also, I had volunteer Matts Wild Cherry vines start taking over the corn patch, growing rapidly suckering vines in all directions, and realized that they are probably blocking the corn pollen from falling on the silks (too bad tomato pollen can't pollinate corn -- they drop plenty

). I think similar problem can occur when corn are too closely jammed up against each other with overlapping leaves. I'm rethinking growing pole beans with corn in that regard -- From previous experience, I had already decided that too vigorous climbers are detrimental to short stature corn as well.
-- I don't know if you can thin them out. It would depend on how much the leaves are entangled. Whether it would help would depend I suppose on where they are in growth and maturity. How any tiers of leaves do they have now? To thin, I think you would need to use loppers and cut them at the base rather than trying to dig out which would damage the roots of ones you want to keep.
Are you getting both male and female flowers on the
cucumbers? Yes, knowing the variety would help.
When did you plant the bush(?)
beans? 3" tall sounds iffy for harvesting before frost in Utah. Pole beans generally take longer than bush beans to mature. Holes could be slugs as well as bugs. What kind of holes? Once you ID the culprit and take proper measures, you may be able to put up season extending low tunnel over them (if bush beans).