I cut and stacked the cornstalks, scattered some 6-24-24 (legumes make their own nitrogen), tilled up a good seedbed, and planted green beans and peas. It took about 2 hours.
After the second crop is done, I'll throw the cornstalks back on and till them in.
Planting the peas is what really got me looking for a new planter. It did such a terrible job,I wouldn't be surprised if I have to till them up and replant with my new planter.
- freedhardwoods
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Double Cropping
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- jal_ut
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https://donce.lofthouse.com/jamaica/Plan ... anting.htm
Here is the planter I use. It does a good job for me.
Here is the planter I use. It does a good job for me.
- freedhardwoods
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That looks like an Earthway seeder. I was seriously considering one, but the design is almost exactly like the All In One that I was always having trouble with. Even though several people said it did a good job, I just couldn't get over the design.jal_ut wrote:https://donce.lofthouse.com/jamaica/Plan ... anting.htm
Here is the planter I use. It does a good job for me.
I was excited to find an affordable planter made with a design I have used and am very familiar with.
In your photo comments you said - "I use a hoe to make a furrow then drop in the seed and cover, or just pick up a seed and push it into the ground where it will grow. I like to plant lettuce, cabbage and broccoli like this."
Is your planter not as accurate with those seeds or is there another reason you do it by hand?
- jal_ut
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The lettuce, cabbage and broccoli I like to plant by hand like that and space each little bunch of seed the width I want the plants to be so they have room to develop into a nice head. Then when they come up I will thin the little bunch to the best plant. Can't really do that with the seeder. Radishes planted in a furrow made by the hoe can be seeded in a slightly wider row than the seeder makes so that you actually grow more radishes in ten feet of row. Of course radishes can be planted in a wide row say a foot or 18 inches or just a bed and scatter the seed and let 'er rip. I have tried lots of things over the years.
I do like rows for my garden rather than beds simply because the rows give me pathways for access, and the rototiller keeps the weeds out of the walkways. Ya, I still have to painstakingly weed the row. Try a few things and pretty soon you will work out a plan that works for you.
I do like rows for my garden rather than beds simply because the rows give me pathways for access, and the rototiller keeps the weeds out of the walkways. Ya, I still have to painstakingly weed the row. Try a few things and pretty soon you will work out a plan that works for you.
- freedhardwoods
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Would you care to share your sowing dates, Freedhardwoods, or do they fairly well fit the dates on your posts? If so, I can go about 1 month ahead of you with double cropping but not with sweet corn.
Peas don't go in especially early in the spring - about the 1st week of April. I am dedicated to getting the vines out in early July. Then, I plant the bush beans.
Snow pea seed can be sown again before the end of July. I delayed to the very last day of July this year. Fortunately, even tho' light frosts began in September (& continued), they were so light that the pea pods were there for me thru most of October. The bush beans survived the September frost, sort of. They had already been harvested but had a few more pods. Before the 28°f that killed 'em, the weather allowed them to recover and I got a 3rd picking of beans.
What would probably work for me is to follow an early sweet corn with spinach & garlic for next year. I can plant Asian greens in August with enough time for harvesting but I can't get the sweet corn off that early. Of course, I'm not interested in a thousand square feet of spinach & garlic . . .
Steve
Peas don't go in especially early in the spring - about the 1st week of April. I am dedicated to getting the vines out in early July. Then, I plant the bush beans.
Snow pea seed can be sown again before the end of July. I delayed to the very last day of July this year. Fortunately, even tho' light frosts began in September (& continued), they were so light that the pea pods were there for me thru most of October. The bush beans survived the September frost, sort of. They had already been harvested but had a few more pods. Before the 28°f that killed 'em, the weather allowed them to recover and I got a 3rd picking of beans.
What would probably work for me is to follow an early sweet corn with spinach & garlic for next year. I can plant Asian greens in August with enough time for harvesting but I can't get the sweet corn off that early. Of course, I'm not interested in a thousand square feet of spinach & garlic . . .
Steve
- freedhardwoods
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I think I took that picture the day I planted. The date on it is 8/1/13.digitS' wrote:Would you care to share your sowing dates, Freedhardwoods, or do they fairly well fit the dates on your posts?
Steve
Here is a picture I took the day I planted the corn on 4/6/13. We had frost once before it came up and twice after. It was 73 day corn, but it was over 100 days from planting to harvest because of the unusually cold spring.
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