joed2323
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Growing pumpkins

Last year was my first year at growing pumpkins, I did pretty bad, I only had probably 5-6 pumpkins and my biggest one was about the size or smaller then a soccer ball :(

I will admit I did not water it enough, they need lots of water just like my watermelon that I did bad with also, both of these, I want to make a big improvement from last year, I think if I would have watered heavy like I should have it probably would have turned out alot better...

I will devote a area away from my 50x50 garden just for these since they eat up lots of room...

I'm mainly growing pumpkins for the kids to carve up, and for fun, yes starting with the right seed is the key, I have the "big max" seeds for right now, probably not the best.

I want to grow a big pumpkins, yeah I probably will not grow 1000 pounders but, we can all dream right....

I live in upper michigan, summers up here are not long, so I was almost thinking of starting my seeds indoors to give them the best chance to become monsters...

Next question, when should I germinate these seeds, we still have snow on the ground, and we usually can not start putting seeds in the ground til early-mid may depending on the weather of course...
I usually start my tomato seeds now or very soon so, would it be bad to start the pumpkin seeds to early, they say 120 days to full maturity

Do any of you gardners germinate these seeds indoors or is this silly, I want to give my watermelon the best chance also.

I even have portable walk in greenhouse for this year, kinda excited to use this since ive never had one or used one in the past
Any pointers will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance

imafan26
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I looked up the auspicious dates for planting squash. April 10-19 if you are planning to start seeds indoors or May 10-17 for direct seeding outdoors.

Squashes and pumpkins can use a healthy dose of compost and a lot of water and sunshine. It also doesn't hurt to feed them some fish emulsion in between. I planted my pumpkin on a slight slope. The vines don't like to be wet and the seeds were planted in a mound surrounded by a well to make watering easier.

Good luck.


https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planti ... /MI/Howell

joed2323
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Do those dates apply for my area?? silly question...

If so then I can start some pumpkin seeds indoors shortly as in this week?
I'm starting my tomato seeds today, probably way to late, I should have started that earlier.

Good tip on the compost, every year, ive been going to the local free compost pyles they have, and getting atleast 2 truck loads for the garden, compost is one of those things thats never bad for the garden so I usually get as much as possible

Dillbert
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the dates look right for your "big pix" zone - local conditions may vary.

here's the deal with squash:

they grow fast. if you've ever looked a zucchini in the eye and blinked, you know about that.

that means they need a rich soil and they need constant and _consistent_ moisture. wet-dry-wet-dry is not their forte - how to accomplish that varies by gardener.

Northernfox
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I successfully grew 35lbs pumpkins on a trellis in Alberta Canada.

The above is all true. The other thing I recommend is picking a variety that grows in 80-90 days. There are lots of the larger ones that will start but won't mature in time for first frost. I had a lot of luck the "Gladiator" pumpkins. I dropped them right in the soil on May 14 th last year.

Good luck

FriedGreenTomatoes
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I'm going to try pumpkins this year for the same reason as you, the kidos. In the past I was into growing giant pumpkins. I thought the idea was just so cool! One thing I know about pumpkins, is that they love calcium. Some people who grow the giant ones go as far as watering them with milk! But the best thing to do (as with any crop) is make sure your watering them! Hope you have a good outcome. Good luck!!

joed2323
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The seeds I have say they can grow 100lbs , I would be satisfied with 1/4-1/2 that size...

I know that if you want to maximize your pimpkin size is to make sure you only have one pumpkin growing on each vine.

I will be honest I don't know much more about pumpkins, but I will start my seeds indoors since the variety I have takes 120 days to mature.

Once a mature pumpkin is picked, how long will they hold for? I remember last year I was hoping they would mature by holloween, this year I want them to be mature well enough before the 31st rolls around. Pumpkins should last over a month correct??

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applestar
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When growing pumpkins for Halloween, it's just as important to make note of when the first average frost in your wree will be. Pumpkin leaves and vines will not withstand frost. Its possible to plant an eary maturing variety too eary and end up with mature pumpkins in August (ask me how I know.... :oops:)

Count back from the last average frost, add a week or two for good measure/insurance, then aim to plant/start your seeds by extending the season earlier. It's easier to protect small seedlings.

You can set up a low clear plastic sheeting tunnel and/or cover the intended planting area with black plastic or woven mulch to warm up the soil so you can plant earlier. You could also try using the wall-o-water type water-filled tee-pee system (I haven't tried it for warning soil to plant squash though I've tried using it for planting tomatoes eary).

One year, I tried putting a bottomless gallon size nursery pot filled with compost/soil iTune on top of the raised "hill" planting area, sowed the seeds and covered with cut off soda bottle cloche (no cap). Because the container was raised and black, the soil heated up fast and promoted speedy germination. The bottle cloche saved them from a couple of chilly days. Once the plants grew down into the soil below (bottomless container), I pulled off the container with some and just hilled up around the container with others. Having the container there didn't seem to affect the plant at all and kept the soil around the seedling from collapsing so next time aound, I would just leave the container in place.

At the end of the season, if you need to protect your vines, you *could* try covering with plastic sheeting mid-tunnel. I had a 10'x6' patch to protect and got them through two frosts under plastic sheeting, but it wasn't enough -- I got one mature pumpkin and one green one, and the green one had apparently sustained damage because it rotted. But I wasn't trying very hard either :roll: If I had put all my effort into it by completely tucking the bottom edges down, etc. they might have made it, but I'm not sure.

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jal_ut
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There are loads of pumpkin varieties. For Jack-o-lantern pumpkins, I prefer Connecticut Field or Howden pumpkins. You will get plenty in the 40 pound range. These are surely large enough for kids to carve.

The Big Max do get larger, up to 100 pounds, but are not as prolific.

If you want to go for a really big pumpkin, Dills Atlantic Giant is the one.

When the pumpkin gets set on, I like to go move it closer to the root attachment point and place it on its blossom end so it has some slack in the vine and can expand in a nice round shape, and can grow upwards without stressing the vine. If left lying on their side, they often come up lopsided pumpkins. If you prune other fruit off the vine, the one left will get larger.

Pumpkins are fun.

joed2323
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thanks guys, and thanks jal_ut I was hoping you would see this post and comment.

Where can I find those seed varieties you recommended? can I get them at walmart or home depot?? or even a feed mill??
I thought I seen those connecticut field seeds at walmart unless I seen them somewhere else?

Also, do you do anything different to the soil in your pumpkin patch area from the rest of your garden?

Honestly, I'm not trying to grow any monsters like some people love to try and do, but I just want to make a big improvement from last years pathetic pumpkin growing attempt.

I'm guessing I can grow these things anywhere correct, I'm not choosing to use my garden because the vines just overtake everything around it, so I was thinking of making a few raised beds but I know the vines will run off the beds and onto the grass, so should I just dig some holes throughout the back yard and let them go???

I know deer like these, and the rest of my garden is fenced in, I guess it would be best to buy somemore fencing and make a perimeter around my pumpkin growing area??

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jal_ut
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Gurney's

Burpee

I have bought seeds from these suppliers when I can't find what I want locally. They are good reputable companies.

Good luck with the deer. You can likely find some deer repellant ideas on the site too.
so should I just dig some holes throughout the back yard and let them go???
That is what I would do. You don't even need to make a raised bed, just dig in a little compost in a spot about 3 feet diameter and plant 3 seeds. Like you say they take over. I have even had them climb trees.

I do nothing special for the pumpkin patch. Like any plant though they respond to good fertile soil and enough water. Have fun!

Image

A couple from last season.

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jal_ut
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Next question, when should I germinate these seeds, we still have snow on the ground, and we usually can not start putting seeds in the ground til early-mid may depending on the weather of course...
I see one more question you asked. Pumpkins may take over 100 days so you need to get them going as soon as you will have no more frost. My planting date is May 5 if weather permits. We usually have our last frost about mid May so by the time they come up they are usually fine.

If you start them indoors, I would not start any sooner than two weeks before they can go out, and then move them out on good days so they will harden off.

I have a squash growing in a pot that I planted just for boredom sake and it is blooming. Sure looks sickly though. Squash and pumpkins don't do well in pots. I will have to take a pic of the little thing and post it?

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jal_ut
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Image

OK, here is the squash I have growing in a pot. It has been outside on days when it was not going to freeze. Still it looks sickly even if it is blooming. Again I say, squash and or pumpkins do not do well in pots.

Hey, it did get me to growing something...................... :)

joed2323
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Jal_ut- thank you

This was exactly the kind of info I was looking for.. I like to think me and you have similar growing conditions to deal with. Snow and weather issues are pretty much the same where you live and where I live.

I was going to comment on the picture of you and your awesome looking pumpkins before you posted. I'm glad you did, you beat me to it. The pumpkins in the picture was variety is this, Connecticut field?

Your squash is still growing and isnt dead so id say your doing good for the conditions that the squash is dealing with!

Also do you keep your pumpkins watered constantly just like your watermelons??
I'm jealous of your watermelons too :wink:

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TheWaterbug
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jal_ut wrote:Squash and pumpkins don't do well in pots. I will have to take a pic of the little thing and post it?
My first two years growing pumpkins I started in little cups and transplanted. Last year I took jal_ut's advice and sowed them directly in the ground. Big difference! The vines grew _much_ faster.

I also put in a drip watering system for the pumpkins; also a huge difference.

This year I'm going to take jal_ut's last piece of advice and _not_ build up a mound for the seeds, but rather dig a little depression for them, to give the roots the most opportunity to spread out.

Fertilizer helps, too. I use liquid fertilizer with an injector.

I grow Jack-O-Lantern, Lumina (white), Jarrahdale (blue/gray), Big Max, and Dill's Atlantic Giant. The JOLs, Luminas, and Jarrahdales never get huge, but the kids don't seem to care. I never weigh any of those varieties anyway.

My Big Maxes typically get up to 50-60 lbs, and last year my Atlantic Giants were 88 lbs and 142 lbs.

Of course my climate is totally different from yours, so YMMV. But I do grow for the same purpose; we have an annual Pick-and-Paint Pumpkin Patch Party for 50-60 kids.

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jal_ut
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Image

Squash patch.

Image

Here is what came off it.

Sorry, I have probably shown you these pics before, but just want to emphasize why I say, "You can get a lot of food from squash!" We have bottled pumpkin, and frozen squash. The winter varieties will keep in your garage or basement for 3 or 4 months. Good winter food.

All of these were directly seeded about May 5 last year. There was also lots of summer squash harvested that are not in the picture.

Image

This just one picking. I got about the same every week for several weeks. The summer squash are short vining types. They don't take up as much room, yet I plant 5 seeds in a small circle about 10 inches diameter and the resultant clump spreads to at least 6 feet wide.

joed2323
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Wow thanks guys for the info

JAL_ut- I love zucchini/ bread one of my favorites.
Dumb question-but what does squash taste like? zucchini? I never had squash before Ive only grown zucchini.
Sounds like you guys love your squash...

Thanks for the pictures, now I'm truly jealous :roll:

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TheWaterbug
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joed2323 wrote:Dumb question-but what does squash taste like? zucchini? I never had squash before Ive only grown zucchini.
Most of the "winter squash" we're talking about tastes very different from zucchini. Zukes and other summer squashes are (typically) harvested in an immature state, while they're still green and soft. Squashes like butternut, pumpkin, etc. are left to ripen until their rinds are really hard and it takes a sharp knife and hammer to cut them.*

I'd never eaten much squash until last season, but now I'm a fan :D

I grew butternut last year, and it's really good cut into cubes and roasted until soft, with some olive oil, salt, pepper, etc. It's nice and . . . buttery and nutty, just like the name. :) Texture wise, it can be almost like a baked sweet potato, but firmer. Think of it as more of a starch side dish, as opposed to a green veggie (which is where I'd put the zukes).

I also make soup from my pumpkins, and everyone really likes it, except my kid and my wife. But everyone else likes it.

The winter squashes also keep for a very long time if their rind is unbroken. I have a pumpkin on my window sill that I harvested in October, and it still looks edible.

*there are also lots of other "green" squashes, like pattypan, banana squash, etc., that are closer to a zucchini, but I assume you're not talking about those.

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TheWaterbug
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TheWaterbug wrote:Most of the "winter squash" we're talking about tastes very different from zucchini. Zukes and other summer squashes are (typically) harvested in an immature state, while they're still green and soft. Squashes like butternut, pumpkin, etc. are left to ripen until their rinds are really hard and it takes a sharp knife and hammer to cut them.
Well, let me amend that, because I see that a lot of what's in jal_ut's pictures are summer squashes. The entire bottom picture (on the round table) looks like summer squashes that are zucchini-like in texture and flavor.

The tractor picture looks like it's mostly winter squashes, though jal_ut can say better than I :D

For me, personally, I like to eat winter squashes far more than I like summer squashes.

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jal_ut
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The tractor picture looks like it's mostly winter squashes, though jal_ut can say better than I :D
You are right. Pretty much all winter squash types. There is: Hubbard, Banana, a Hubbard/Banana hybrid, Butternut, Spaghetti, Acorn, and Delicata. The delicata are the small ones with green stripes on them.

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TheWaterbug
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I just ordered some Cha Cha (Kabocha variant) and Green Hubbard seeds, and I bought some Butternut seeds a few weeks ago.

I also bought some Jarrahdale and Lumina seeds for the pumpkin patch.

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jal_ut
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Can't seem to grow a squash this year. The early planting came up and promptly got frozen. So replanted and the plants are just now putting on their first true leaves. I don't think there is enough time left in this climate to make a crop.

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That's too bad. I think it was the same cold snap that got my tomatoes and peppers. Had to replant, gladly I had started some extra ones indoors. I've taken to watching the weather channel 10 day forecast; especially at the planting time of year. Though they can be wrong, it's usually relatively accurate. If there's a chance of frost showing in the next 10 days, I'll hold off on planting the heat loving stuff. But, it didn't help this time with the tomatoes and peppers! This freeze was at least 2 weeks after it shoulda been.

Maybe your longer day length will help make up for the shorter season. And, hopefully the first frost will be later.

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jal_ut
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In this high desert country I have seen frost every month of the year. Most years we are frost free from early June until late August. One never knows. A freak storm can come through and freeze you. We just plant in good faith and hope. Most years we get a crop.

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jal_ut
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It has been a weird season here. Seems to be running a bit cooler than normal. The warm weather stuff doesn't want to get going. No blossoms at all on squash nor cucumbers. The corn is just starting to tassel. We will see how it does. Beans just starting to bloom. Here it is mid July and only six weeks till first frost time.

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jal_ut
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No squash! The apples did well, so I sit here and eat apples and visit forums and play on the internet. This morning 32 degrees F and sunny. Three inches of snow on the ground. The only thing growing in my garden for the next three months is ICE.

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Me, lotsa squash, not one apple. Beginning to think my apple tree might be one of those that only bears every other year. Sure miss those apples from last year!

Only just had first frost at my smaller, lower elevation garden 2 days ago. Sometimes it makes it to Nov. 1, but this year much longer. Tomatoes are wilted down and done; next step: annual rye.

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jal_ut
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joed2323, Those two big pumpkins in my picture are a cross of some kind. If I weighed them, I don't remember. (CRS Disease! Can't Remember Stuff.)

May 5 is pumpkin planting date here, or as soon thereafter as weather and soil condx permit. Yes, I plant seed directly in the garden.

My garden gets watered once a week with a sprinkler irrigation system and I add some fertilizer.

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jal_ut
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That is the way gardening goes. You just plant and hope.

Oh, lots of things have been tried to cover up the plants when a frost is expected. Hot Caps. Visqueen. (polyethylene plastic sheeting) Paper. etc. I have seen some pretty impressive tunnels built to cover the plants.

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I thought I would add to this discussion, to select varieties that suit your climate and taste. You have mentioned already if you have a short season, you need to select early varieties. Squash can take a 100 days to mature and they do swallow up space.

Some of the pumpkins like kabocha and butternut, produce a lot of fruit, but all of them do not mature. I only average three Kabocha and butternut from a vine. You need to be on the lookout for vine borers if they are a problem in your area and fruit flies in mine. I prefer to plant gourds because for the space they take up, they have a higher yield of 12-20 squash per vine. I also know how to cook that and most people here know how to use it so it is relatively easy to give it away. I love butternut, but not many people here know how to cook it. Zucchini just doesn't grow like it used to. Chayote is a weed here, it doesn't take much care and it is a perennial in my climate. I can grow see gwa (luffa) and it produces well, but there aren't that many takers for the fruit. I did grow a pumpkin, I picked it in June but it rotted before halloween. Small pumpkins are better for pies, the big ones are dry. I grew Tahitian squash one year, it took over my back yard and tried to take over the neighbor's. I never did figure out when to pick it. It was huge and productive. I haven't found seeds since.

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applestar
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They list them at Southern Exposure Seed Exchange. Do they ship to Hawaii? I really wanted to try it, esp. since its a C.moschata, but 120 days is too long for my area.
Tahitian Melon Winter Squash 3 g [53613] - $2.75 : Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, Saving the Past for the Future
https://www.southernexposure.com/tahitia ... -1388.html

Tahitian Melon Winter Squash 3 gCertified OrganicEspecially well-suited to the Southeast
$2.75

(C. moschata) 120 days. Long-necked butternut type has one of the highest sugar contents of any winter squash. The sweet, fine-textured neck flesh is excellent for pies and soups. Large (10-20 lb) fruits keep well for 9+ months. Pkt.
Item # 53613

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jal_ut
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When I was a youngster I would help Dad plant the garden. When it came to squash and cucumbers, he would take the shovel and dig a small hole and I would toss in about 5 seeds then he would drop the soil in the shovel on it and take a step forward, always stepping on the spot where the seeds were to pack it down well so the breeze didn't dry it out, then do it again. The seeds would come up and go out like the spokes of a wheel and make quite a squash patch.

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