I have them in my basement under lights. I was down there tonight bottling wine and beer and noticed fruit!!
the pepper set up
Closer
one more shot
The Fruit
The Fruit 2
The Fruit 3
Thoughts?
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- Greener Thumb
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Why not? Are you thinking brightness? Color range?
I'm finding winter indoor peppers (Jalapeños and Hot Lemon in my case) to be less fussy than winter indoor tomatoes about blooming and setting fruit, despite lower light and temperature conditions or even mediocre soil fertility.
Shake/tap or buzz with electric toothbrush the blossom trusses to help release pollen to get higher rate of fruitset, or just let them randomly set fruit.
On the other hand, you can pluck all the blooms if you want the plants to concentrate their energy on growth.
I'm finding winter indoor peppers (Jalapeños and Hot Lemon in my case) to be less fussy than winter indoor tomatoes about blooming and setting fruit, despite lower light and temperature conditions or even mediocre soil fertility.
Shake/tap or buzz with electric toothbrush the blossom trusses to help release pollen to get higher rate of fruitset, or just let them randomly set fruit.
On the other hand, you can pluck all the blooms if you want the plants to concentrate their energy on growth.
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You're welcome.
I'm always going to grow a couple of winter indoor peppers... To overwinter as well as to harvest and eat.
I was hoping to start and grow a number of varieties from a stock of old seeds this summer to have more to choose from, but so far, these old seeds are not cooperating. But I do have a couple of De Arbol seedlings up now (and a couple of Jalapeño seedlings to replace my 4th year ones in case they decline). I just sowed another round a few days ago, and if they still won't sprout, I'll have to try pre-soaking.
It's almost time to wake up the other ones (Corno di Toro, Golden Summer Hybrid, and Poblano) I left to overwinter in near freezing conditions in the garage and see if they survived.
I'm always going to grow a couple of winter indoor peppers... To overwinter as well as to harvest and eat.
I was hoping to start and grow a number of varieties from a stock of old seeds this summer to have more to choose from, but so far, these old seeds are not cooperating. But I do have a couple of De Arbol seedlings up now (and a couple of Jalapeño seedlings to replace my 4th year ones in case they decline). I just sowed another round a few days ago, and if they still won't sprout, I'll have to try pre-soaking.
It's almost time to wake up the other ones (Corno di Toro, Golden Summer Hybrid, and Poblano) I left to overwinter in near freezing conditions in the garage and see if they survived.
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Yep. That's the best part about overwintering pepper plants. They are all already blooming and setting fruit by the time they can go outside and continue to produce all summer as long as you keep them fed.
-- This is the reason I'm not concerned that my peppers haven't sprouted and plan to keep trying until they do.
BTW, I forgot to mention the two Etkezi Paprika seedlings that are also up. And this morning after posting the above, I went to mist my seedlings and discovered a Peruvian White Habanero seedling pushing its little loop up from the soil.
-- This is the reason I'm not concerned that my peppers haven't sprouted and plan to keep trying until they do.
BTW, I forgot to mention the two Etkezi Paprika seedlings that are also up. And this morning after posting the above, I went to mist my seedlings and discovered a Peruvian White Habanero seedling pushing its little loop up from the soil.
Your peppers look great! It is nice that you got them to fruit indoors! They will slow down a bit when you transplant them, but should start fruiting again once the roots are repaired.
Our climates are obviously very different, but, for what it's worth... my jalapenos and serranos don't ever stop producing once they start, until they die. Summer temps will soar up to 118F and they're still making new blossoms and new peppers. We don't get snow and temps are usually not lower than 35F at night; they died when we had a surprise frost and were not covered, but the plants probably had at least 20 peppers on each at that point. They will produce as long as they have enough light/nutes and temps are above freezing.
Our climates are obviously very different, but, for what it's worth... my jalapenos and serranos don't ever stop producing once they start, until they die. Summer temps will soar up to 118F and they're still making new blossoms and new peppers. We don't get snow and temps are usually not lower than 35F at night; they died when we had a surprise frost and were not covered, but the plants probably had at least 20 peppers on each at that point. They will produce as long as they have enough light/nutes and temps are above freezing.
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Isn't that just the Best when you see the stubborn ones finally pop up
I have Alpine and Sierra f1 hybrid strawberries starting from seed this year. Those little monsters too forever to pop their little heads up. They re doing great now! I got 85% germination !!
I picked my peppers this year by color I did trade for some and purchased others but they are all sorts of colors red yellow orange white green should be lots of fun!
I have Alpine and Sierra f1 hybrid strawberries starting from seed this year. Those little monsters too forever to pop their little heads up. They re doing great now! I got 85% germination !!
I picked my peppers this year by color I did trade for some and purchased others but they are all sorts of colors red yellow orange white green should be lots of fun!
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That's a controversial statement, which might have been prefaced with IMHO ... Notice jal_ut's comment above. He grows a remarkably productive garden in short season. Some people pinch out early blossoms and some don't. Personally I don't. If the plant isn't ready to support them, it will drop the blossoms on its own.dave103069 wrote:For peppers it is always a good idea to pull the flowers or friuts that come out early which will help the plant produce more fruit and higher yield later on..
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I started them in a nice seed starting mix and then the soil I use is a soilless mix with organic fertilizer pellet things.
They are doing well for my pepper plants. usually mine are much smaller and very rarely fruit. Short season and all
they get light from 8am to 8pm right now.
I can put more info up once my son goes to sleep if you like.
They are doing well for my pepper plants. usually mine are much smaller and very rarely fruit. Short season and all
they get light from 8am to 8pm right now.
I can put more info up once my son goes to sleep if you like.
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I was seriously thinking about the light timing....
In their native equitorial habitat, equal day/night length doesn't vary much if at all by seasons, so if the light intensity is bright enough, they may very well be happier with 12/12 schedule.
The longer length of time is used primarily to compensate for the reduced light intensity.
In their native equitorial habitat, equal day/night length doesn't vary much if at all by seasons, so if the light intensity is bright enough, they may very well be happier with 12/12 schedule.
The longer length of time is used primarily to compensate for the reduced light intensity.
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White flies are sucking insects. You will notice white colored pinpoints on the upper surface of the leaves when they are congregating and sucking the plant juices from underneath. When excessive, they can cause the leaf to dry up and die.
They can be infectious vectors for plant diseases (to plants, you understand).
Like all sucking insects, their feeding attracts ants to the sticky "honeydew".
I don't believe any of this can cause problems for your other uses in the area.
They can be infectious vectors for plant diseases (to plants, you understand).
Like all sucking insects, their feeding attracts ants to the sticky "honeydew".
I don't believe any of this can cause problems for your other uses in the area.
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