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ReptileAddiction
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Drip Irrigation

So I am going to build a large raised bed veggie garden and plan on installing drip irrigation. I have a few questions though. Should I set the emitters at set intervals? I am worried that next season when I go to plant stuff in different spots I will have to reconfigure the whole system. Could I just use soaker hose and put one main line (that is solid) along the side of the bed then every foot or so a soaker hose coming down the bed? Then I could move the hoses to where I wanted them. If I run a soaker hose instead do I run it for the same amount of time? Thank you so much for your help.

DoubleDogFarm
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You should start with the knowledge that 1/2 mainline can only delivery 240 GPH. That would be 480 1/2 gallon emitters. Not sure how this relates to soaker hose.

Eric

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ReptileAddiction
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Good to know thanks. Is there a way to connect soaker hose to the mainline? I might also do the tubing with the holes at every 6 inches that I will not have to put emitters in to.

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tomf
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If you get a system get the Dig system it is better. They have soaker hoses for drip systems. You can put the system on timers, and use valves to water different parts of the garden if you want. I till my garden up with a tractor so I have connectors on my main lines, and undo the sub lines that water the garden in the fall.

imafan26
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Be sure not to mix pressure compensated and non-pressure compensated emitters on the same line.

The newer soaker hoses have emitters set 12 inches apart and are pressure compensated.

Older style soaker hoses are not pressure compensated and neither are micro sprinkers.

Non- pressure compensated emitters do need a higher pressure.

The length of the system and water pressure will determine the total number of emitters you can put on one line.

I put emitters on longer micro tubing so I have more choices in positioning.

The amount of time you run a system depends on the gph of the emitters or soakers, the spacing of the soakers, and the type of soil you have. If you have a sandy loam then it will dry faster and have to be watered more often. If you have lots of organic matter and you keep your soaker system under your mulch instead of watering the mulch your soil will dry out slower and hold moisture better so you can run it shorter and less often.

The easiest way to tell how long that will be is to run the system and check how long it takes for the water to reach down the first 4 -6 inches or so where most of the roots are.

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gixxerific
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I am a firm beliver in soaker/drip systems. I bought up a bunch of soaker hoses last year. I would do drip but my garden changes so much it is easier for ME to use soaker hoses.

I found some good quality hoses that can really put some water down in a short time.

But............. running too many in line does not work. I found that when I had 2-3 in line there was no output at the end of the line (espeacially with 3 in line). But I changed it to a splitter valve (2 outputs) and that eleviated the problem. The each had their own source so water would flow to the end of both hoses. I would just have to have differant sections to do with this setup which is no biggie.

Good luck no matter how you go, but I really think this is the way to go, espeacially in my normally very humid climate. It really helps keep down disease. It aslo conserves water as it is not evaportating into the air.

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tomf
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Wen I lived in the city I had vegetable a garden and rose garden on soaker hoses. I had a set of PVC valves that I could turn on and off to send water to where I needed it.
If you do a drip system there are drip hoses that go with the system. they are like thin soaker hoses. You get it in rolls and cut and plug the ends.

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ReptileAddiction
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The ones I am looking at are this

https://www.dripworks.com/product/Q_DSD6

They are non pressure compensating though which I do not like.

imafan26
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The link you provided is to pressure compensating soakers. The drip gph is stated on the specs. Non-pressure compensating tubing would not have a specific gph and gph would vary by water pressure and position in the line.

This is a link to Dig tubing that is sold at home depot. The brown drip tubing is pressure compensated. It has bulges in the line where the emitters are locate and says that flow is at a constant rate (minimum pressure required).

The porous soaker line is non pressure compensating. it delivers .4 gph per foot with a maximum length of 30 ft. It does not say it is pressure compensating. (The gph will depend on a minimum water pressure being maintained.)

https://www.digcorp.com/DIY/220-Drip_Lin ... y_products

I myself prefer the non pressure soakers instead, because for me they are easier to repair and I can add additional holes along the line with a knife. They deliver the water over a shorter period of time. I generally only keep my drip system on for ten minutes. I do not like emitters to be 1 foot apart, there are too many dry spots and I would have to run them for more than an hour. I have 6 zones on a timer. 4 of them are drip zones.

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ReptileAddiction
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The ones in the link are not pressure compensating because it says that the gph varies with pressureI found that at home depot it is a lot cheaper so I will buy it from there instead. Do you think that spaced every 6 inches will be close enough?

Tonio
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RA,
I just installed Toro 1/4" soaker line .5GPH @ 6" intervals from a DIG main 1/2" LINE set up. I got the Toro instead, due to DIG's is only 9 or 12" intervals @ my home depot- no 6" interval. Both products appear to be the same.

So far its better than the 1/4" porous soaker I used to use- as it plugs up, or you need higher pressure, then you loose the pressure after 15 few minutes anyway. I tried the set 25PSI regulator and the DIG's adjustable regulator, and it doesn't work for me. My main spigot is rated @ 120PSI :shock:

6" interval should be good, its hard to find any other smaller intervals unless you order online at full retail price + shipping.

Either way , porous soaker or soaker line may be good for crop in rows, but for tomoatoes I like to water the whole bed.



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