Basic steps for starting a fruit & vegetable garden?
Hello I am new here and also new to gardening. I have been interested in it for years but never had enough space. however I recently bought some land. so I intend to get started this year. however I need some advice. I intend to grow some corn strawberries watermellon peas tomato and cabage. I was going to plant them in may. I got the seed packs from tractor supply and some of them it says to plant indoors so I got an indoor seed starter greenhouse. however what steps do I need to take as far as planting them I know I need to till up the ground and did trenches about 2-4 inches deep or thats what I was told at least. I guess I was wondering what are the basic steps to ensure a good garden.
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rainbowgardener
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Basic step to a good garden is good soil. So your first step is to work on building good soil. You can get soil test kits or find some where to send a sample away for testing (maybe county extension office). That will tell you how your soil is now and what to add. Figure on adding all the compost/ well aged composted manure, other organic matter you can.jared185 wrote:Hello I am new here and also new to gardening. I have been interested in it for years but never had enough space. however I recently bought some land. so I intend to get started this year. however I need some advice. I intend to grow some corn strawberries watermellon peas tomato and cabage. I was going to plant them in may. I got the seed packs from tractor supply and some of them it says to plant indoors so I got an indoor seed starter greenhouse. however what steps do I need to take as far as planting them I know I need to till up the ground and did trenches about 2-4 inches deep or thats what I was told at least. I guess I was wondering what are the basic steps to ensure a good garden.
RE corn strawberries watermelon peas tomato and cabbage. That's a very mixed bag. Peas and cabbage are cold weather crops, which in kentucky you can probably plant now or very soon. They are cold hardy and frost tolerant, but don't do well once it gets hot. The peas are planted directly in the ground. The cabbage can be given a head start indoors, but don't really have to be if you aren't set up for that.
Strawberries are very slow and difficult from seed and are usually bought as plants. The plants are very cheap and easy to find. They need their own separate area, because they are permanent, as opposed to the annual crops that are rotated every year.
Tomatoes are the most common to give a head start indoors, because they take a long time to start producing. And they benefit from babying at the beginning. Start them indoors now (look in the seed starting section here for the Sticky on seed starting basics) and transplant out doors after all danger of frost is past For me that is mid-April ish.
The corn is planted directly in the ground, after danger of frost is past.
The squash can be started indoors, but really doesn't need to be. But it is the warmest of warm weather plants. Don't plant squash until the soil has warmed up to at least 70 degrees.
Welcome to the forum! Glad you found us, hope we can help you have a good experience getting started.
Here's a quick list of some of the things you can grow now and into the summer months. Below is what I generally put in the ground between now and late March.
Tomatoes
All peppers from mild to mouth scorching
Eggplant
Squash
Okra
Swiss Chard
Lettuces until it gets hot and it bolts
Spinach, same as lettuce
Snap beans---either bush type or pole type
Cucumbers
Herbs such as:
Sweet Basil
Parsley
Rosemary
Sage
Oregano
Right now I have garlic, onions, parsley, tomatoes, broccoli, collards and several hot pepper plants that survived our mild winter.
Tomatoes
All peppers from mild to mouth scorching
Eggplant
Squash
Okra
Swiss Chard
Lettuces until it gets hot and it bolts
Spinach, same as lettuce
Snap beans---either bush type or pole type
Cucumbers
Herbs such as:
Sweet Basil
Parsley
Rosemary
Sage
Oregano
Right now I have garlic, onions, parsley, tomatoes, broccoli, collards and several hot pepper plants that survived our mild winter.
Love your enthusiasm and welcome to the club!
I've posted a link on the basics of vegetable gardening in Kentucky.
https://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id128/id128.pdf
Gardenening is a lot of fun, but it is also a lot of work. Think about designing a garden that will in the long run, be less work.
Plan your beds so they can easily be worked from both sides.
Use some type of irrigation.
Plan on composting? You will need to set up an area for compost bins.
Build up organic matter in the garden with compost and mulch. You can build raised beds but you can just pull up the soil and mound it to form a raised bed.
https://extension.missouri.edu/p/g6985
Take the time to build the soil
Plant what you like and only what you can use. Plan for succession.
That is, unless you can eat a whole package of lettuce at one time, plan to plant enough seeds for 10 heads every 2-3 weeks to ensure a long harvest.
Space plantings in time so that they do not mature at the same time, especially if it is something that does not keep well.
Make sure what you plant has room to grow. When you put in small plants, it is easy to plant them too close. Mulch to control weeds.
Stay on top of the pests. Talk to your plants and inspect them regularly.
I've posted a link on the basics of vegetable gardening in Kentucky.
https://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id128/id128.pdf
Gardenening is a lot of fun, but it is also a lot of work. Think about designing a garden that will in the long run, be less work.
Plan your beds so they can easily be worked from both sides.
Use some type of irrigation.
Plan on composting? You will need to set up an area for compost bins.
Build up organic matter in the garden with compost and mulch. You can build raised beds but you can just pull up the soil and mound it to form a raised bed.
https://extension.missouri.edu/p/g6985
Take the time to build the soil
Plant what you like and only what you can use. Plan for succession.
That is, unless you can eat a whole package of lettuce at one time, plan to plant enough seeds for 10 heads every 2-3 weeks to ensure a long harvest.
Space plantings in time so that they do not mature at the same time, especially if it is something that does not keep well.
Make sure what you plant has room to grow. When you put in small plants, it is easy to plant them too close. Mulch to control weeds.
Stay on top of the pests. Talk to your plants and inspect them regularly.
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rainbowgardener
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- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
This is true. Being in KY. will push things back a bit. OP, check out the zone planting guide for your area and get dates for the type vegetables you want to grow.rainbowgardener wrote:Lots of good tips here. When you look at gumbo's list, remember he is in New Orleans. Real different seasons and planting dates from us.
Also, being new to gardening, check out the spacing guidelines for particular plants. Lots of first timers tend to plant way too many plants in far too small a space and wind up with less than satisfactory results.
To make it easier to work beds, Rainbow has a good point.
Plants that are perennial or mature late should be carefully planted.
Many plants do not need to go into a traditional bed.
strawberries can be in their own planting bed.
Herbs can be tucked in here and there, or planted in containers preferably close to the kitchen where they would be used.
Some perennial and biennials need their own space.
It is easier to work a bed if you can take everything out and not have to work around other plants.
Fruit trees, berries, artichokes, collards, kale, asparagus, and rhubarb can be harvested over a long period of time but take up a lot of space. Luckily you have the acreage to spread them out.
You will also need to look at how the garden will be oriented to take advantage of sun and shade. Tall plants need to be planted in the back so they won't shade shorter plants, but they can also provide shade for plants that need it.
Some plants grow well together and some do not. Plants that like the same conditions should be grouped together.
Vines need a trellis or fence to climb on or a lot of space if they are to sprawl on the ground.
Plants that are perennial or mature late should be carefully planted.
Many plants do not need to go into a traditional bed.
strawberries can be in their own planting bed.
Herbs can be tucked in here and there, or planted in containers preferably close to the kitchen where they would be used.
Some perennial and biennials need their own space.
It is easier to work a bed if you can take everything out and not have to work around other plants.
Fruit trees, berries, artichokes, collards, kale, asparagus, and rhubarb can be harvested over a long period of time but take up a lot of space. Luckily you have the acreage to spread them out.
You will also need to look at how the garden will be oriented to take advantage of sun and shade. Tall plants need to be planted in the back so they won't shade shorter plants, but they can also provide shade for plants that need it.
Some plants grow well together and some do not. Plants that like the same conditions should be grouped together.
Vines need a trellis or fence to climb on or a lot of space if they are to sprawl on the ground.
thats for all the replys you all are very helpful I have a good lot of land for a garden but was looking to keep it smaller since this is my first garden. it will be easier to control and be a good learning experience. So with that said I was looking to till up an area of 100ft by 100ft. I don't want to get in over my head. now I heard alot about building up the soil and walmart sells a test kit for around 5 bucks so heres my question what should I look for on the test kit, and you all are saying to add mulch and stuff. so should I buy like the soil bags that they have at walmart, and mix it in with the soil I already have and then add mulch after I plant the seeds or how does that work.
thats for all the replys you all are very helpful I have a good lot of land for a garden but was looking to keep it smaller since this is my first garden. it will be easier to control and be a good learning experience. So with that said I was looking to till up an area of 100ft by 100ft. I don't want to get in over my head. now I heard alot about building up the soil and walmart sells a test kit for around 5 bucks so heres my question what should I look for on the test kit, and you all are saying to add mulch and stuff. so should I buy like the soil bags that they have at walmart, and mix it in with the soil I already have and then add mulch after I plant the seeds or how does that work.
Your best bet is to send samples of the soil to the County Agricultural Extension Service for testing. Contact local nurseries in your area if you can't find them and they should be able to help. Those Wally World type test kits are woefully inaccurate most of the time.
Oh, and a 100' X 100' garden is a HUGE undertaking for a first timer. If I were just getting started, I'd shoot for something in the 20'x50' to see how the whole gardening thing works for you. You'd be surprised how much food you can get from that size garden and it is manageable for one person working a few hours a week to maintain and harvest.
Oh, and a 100' X 100' garden is a HUGE undertaking for a first timer. If I were just getting started, I'd shoot for something in the 20'x50' to see how the whole gardening thing works for you. You'd be surprised how much food you can get from that size garden and it is manageable for one person working a few hours a week to maintain and harvest.
I'd shoot for something smaller still. How about a 4x8 foot bed to start and add on as you go.
Buying soil can be expensive in bags. You can probably get compost in bulk from a composting facility. Many cities now collect green waste and a composting facility turns that into compost and sells it. You can buy it by the truckload, they will either deliver for a fee or you can take your truck there and pay by the scoop.
After you start your own compost pile, you should not need to keep buying compost.
Tree trimmers will also drop loads of chips for practically nothing, but you do need to make sure they are chipped small and from good trees. Wood chips make good mulch.
Work in 2-4 inches of compost into your soil to start and double dig it in.
I would start with a starter fertilizer.
Soil tests done by a lab are better than kits. The lab will also give you recommendations for fertilizer for your garden. You could even specify organic amendments. The down side is that it may take a month or more to get the results back.
You should wait at least six weeks after prepping your beds to plant them.
It will give the amendments time to equilibrate.
Water the beds after they are dug and amended to flush out weeds. The more weeds you take out to start with, the less you will have to deal with later.
Buying soil can be expensive in bags. You can probably get compost in bulk from a composting facility. Many cities now collect green waste and a composting facility turns that into compost and sells it. You can buy it by the truckload, they will either deliver for a fee or you can take your truck there and pay by the scoop.
After you start your own compost pile, you should not need to keep buying compost.
Tree trimmers will also drop loads of chips for practically nothing, but you do need to make sure they are chipped small and from good trees. Wood chips make good mulch.
Work in 2-4 inches of compost into your soil to start and double dig it in.
I would start with a starter fertilizer.
Soil tests done by a lab are better than kits. The lab will also give you recommendations for fertilizer for your garden. You could even specify organic amendments. The down side is that it may take a month or more to get the results back.
You should wait at least six weeks after prepping your beds to plant them.
It will give the amendments time to equilibrate.
Water the beds after they are dug and amended to flush out weeds. The more weeds you take out to start with, the less you will have to deal with later.
I generally start mine off with fresh stable waste from the police stalls where they keep their horses. It is a mix of hay, manure, urine and sawdust. I'll take a whole pickup truck load or two from there and bring it home and pile it in my yard in a corner. To this I add my grass clippings, garden waste, organic kitchen waste like egg shells, coffee grounds, vegetable waste, etc. I'll also get some leaves and additional grass clippings from the guys that have lawn services. They are more than happy to give me as many bags as I want.jared185 wrote:well thanks for the advice. I think ill do a garden about 10' x 20' I guess 100 x 100 is a little much but around here people grow a lot bigger than that so I assumed it would be a good starter size. another question how do I make a compost pile and what should I put in it.
I'll add this and turn it over at least once a week and if the weather is dry, I'll hit it with a little water to keep it moist. Usually in a few months, depending on the weather, it is good enough to go into the garden and looks nothing like what I originally started with. It composts much faster in hot weather than cool or cold weather.
Never add fresh stable waste to the garden because the urine will surely burn your plants.
Well we just bought some horses so that should take care of that lol. It will be a coiple of week before we get the horses but if I start a compost pile this year will it last until the next season or do you have to start new every season. And id rather test the soil myself I like to do that stuff will it be ok to do that I know its not as good but will testing it myself work.
Depending on the size of the garden and the size of your compost pile if your compost will last even one season. I start 3-4 piles a year and my garden consists of 5 rows about 45 ft. long, one raised bed that is 12'x4', a spot with a long and tall trellis for my blackberry vines and 2 additional trellises for cucumbers and beans.jared185 wrote:Well we just bought some horses so that should take care of that lol. It will be a coiple of week before we get the horses but if I start a compost pile this year will it last until the next season or do you have to start new every season. And id rather test the soil myself I like to do that stuff will it be ok to do that I know its not as good but will testing it myself work.
In all, I figure I bring in anywhere from 6-8 full size pickup loads of stable waste, probably close to 50 large bags of grass clippings and leaves and all my organic waste from my garden and kitchen. Not to mention all the leaves and grass clippings I place between the rows when things are growing to help keep the weeds down and moisture in the ground to help with watering. Also, before placing the leaves between the rows, I head to the local supermarket and get enough cardboard boxes to put down a layer of that first, then cover with the leaves and grass.
When you mentioned a 100 x 100 garden, I figured you didn't think about all the work it takes to maintain it. Doing that by hand is a real chore that can overwhelm you if you don't have a few helping hands or at least a big tiller or small tractor to help maintain it.
Yeah like I said I'm still learning I have been hinting and fishing mostly for a hobby but I ive been wantingn to have a garden forever. I'm really excited and kind of jumped into it this year. So let me ask this I'm a beginner so what size do you think I should start with. Thats not hard on the old wallet but will produce a good amount of food for a family of four.
This is a good basic link to how to start a compost pile
https://www.composting101.com/
Ideas for basic garden planner
https://www.almanac.com/vegetable-garden ... -beginners
https://www.composting101.com/
Ideas for basic garden planner
https://www.almanac.com/vegetable-garden ... -beginners
jared185 wrote:Yeah like I said I'm still learning I have been hinting and fishing mostly for a hobby but I ive been wantingn to have a garden forever. I'm really excited and kind of jumped into it this year. So let me ask this I'm a beginner so what size do you think I should start with. Thats not hard on the old wallet but will produce a good amount of food for a family of four.
I mentioned in a prior post the size of my garden. It supplies enough for my family of 4 and then some. I put stuff up by canning and freezing and still manage to have enough left over to give away to family and friends on occasion.
Don't get me wrong, we don't eat every meal from the garden, but I use something from the garden almost every time I cook be it in the form of vegetables or herbs. For instance, I have about a 20 ft. part of a row planted in leaf lettuce and Swiss Chard, another portion planted in beets, broccoli and tomatoes. From this I can get a very nice bowl of salad every day until it gets hot enough to make the cooler weather plants bolt.
When my spring/summer garden is in full swing I can't possibly eat all that comes from it every day. There are days I find myself picking a few lbs. of green beans, half a dozen cucumbers, same with tomatoes, 50+ pods of okra, a nice bowl of various peppers, etc. This is when I generally can, pickle or freeze some of the excess.
One thing I know for sure. You'd be hard pressed to get stuff from the corporate style markets that tastes as fresh or as flavorful as what you take out the garden.
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rainbowgardener
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There's a Sticky in the Compost Forum
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/v ... 89&start=0
about browns and greens. Basically if you pile up a mixture of browns (carbon rich, hard, dry) and greens (nitrogen rich, soft, moist, e.g. manure even though it is brown colored), keep it moist and keep it aerated, it will compost.
10x20 seems like a good starting point for the first time. It's about how much I garden and I eat something from the garden every day in the growing season and have some to can and freeze. It will definitely keep you busy, especially since you may be gathering, there is really a lot to learn at first!
No unfortunately the Wally world test kit is not good enough. Likely to seriously mislead you. And you won't have any way to interpret your results. The extension office or soil test company will tell you what you have and what you need to add, in per square yard form.
As people have mentioned already, be sure you don't add fresh horse manure to your garden. Pile it up, with bedding straw and other browns and let it sit for a year.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/v ... 89&start=0
about browns and greens. Basically if you pile up a mixture of browns (carbon rich, hard, dry) and greens (nitrogen rich, soft, moist, e.g. manure even though it is brown colored), keep it moist and keep it aerated, it will compost.
10x20 seems like a good starting point for the first time. It's about how much I garden and I eat something from the garden every day in the growing season and have some to can and freeze. It will definitely keep you busy, especially since you may be gathering, there is really a lot to learn at first!
No unfortunately the Wally world test kit is not good enough. Likely to seriously mislead you. And you won't have any way to interpret your results. The extension office or soil test company will tell you what you have and what you need to add, in per square yard form.
As people have mentioned already, be sure you don't add fresh horse manure to your garden. Pile it up, with bedding straw and other browns and let it sit for a year.
The advise you've gotten is very knowledgeable and correct but I don't think that you can do all that before you need to plant in your zone. The old fashioned way (the way I started over 50 years ago) is talk to neighbors that have established gardens. They can give you an idea what kind of soil you have and what you need, also when to plant what seeds you want. Go for it this year and watch your garden and what it does. Get a soil sample to your Co. Agent (or whoever does it in your area), start your compost pile and gather the amendments that are recommended. Some things may not do as well and some will do better. This fall start really improving the soil and follow all the advise you've been given here.
Compost pile(s) are usually plural.
You need a pile that you are building. You will keep adding layers to this one.
one that is cooking You will turn this one, but not add anything more
one that is being used. This pile will be a lot shorter than what you started wih and be the one that you are using in the garden.
Some types of compost are ready in 6 weeks, but most piles take 6 months to a year to finish depending on the size and type of material in the pile and how often it is turned.
If you are planning to put manure in the pile, get a soil thermometer and make sure the pile gets hot enough to kill pathogens. Cold composting will not kill pathogens.
You need a pile that you are building. You will keep adding layers to this one.
one that is cooking You will turn this one, but not add anything more
one that is being used. This pile will be a lot shorter than what you started wih and be the one that you are using in the garden.
Some types of compost are ready in 6 weeks, but most piles take 6 months to a year to finish depending on the size and type of material in the pile and how often it is turned.
If you are planning to put manure in the pile, get a soil thermometer and make sure the pile gets hot enough to kill pathogens. Cold composting will not kill pathogens.
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rainbowgardener
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I think you can mail the samples in.
I like raised gardens. I think it is easier to build good soil by piling stuff on than digging down. For the size you want, I don't think you want to get in to building boxes, so think more about raised wide rows. Lay out where you want to have beds (not more than 4 feet wide, so you can reach in to it from the outside) and where you want paths (wide enough so your wheelbarrow can go through). Dig all the topsoil out of the paths and pile it on the beds. Lay down old carpet, burlap, or whatever you have on hand on the paths, so they don't turn into quagmires. Then add your amendments into the beds.
Bud you will still need amendments and you will still need the soil test.
I like raised gardens. I think it is easier to build good soil by piling stuff on than digging down. For the size you want, I don't think you want to get in to building boxes, so think more about raised wide rows. Lay out where you want to have beds (not more than 4 feet wide, so you can reach in to it from the outside) and where you want paths (wide enough so your wheelbarrow can go through). Dig all the topsoil out of the paths and pile it on the beds. Lay down old carpet, burlap, or whatever you have on hand on the paths, so they don't turn into quagmires. Then add your amendments into the beds.
Bud you will still need amendments and you will still need the soil test.
Another thing to consider when you plan your garden is how much time you have to work on it.
The size of the garden and the type and variety of plants you choose will all determine how much time you will need to put in for maintenance.
Prepping and building the beds take the most time.
But there are a lot of other chores that need to be done on a daily basis.
Seeding, weeding, watering, pest control, trellising, pruning, composting, harvesting, planting and mulching.
I put in about 3 hours three times a week and another hour everyday to water and pick out a few pests, push the tomatoes and other vines back onto the trellis, prune and pull weeds.
Even so, I am still behind on all of the things I need to do. I have not been out in the garden much in the last couple of weeks because of the rain. I know that when I do get out there, I will have to put in extra time because the weeds really love the rain.
The size of the garden and the type and variety of plants you choose will all determine how much time you will need to put in for maintenance.
Prepping and building the beds take the most time.
But there are a lot of other chores that need to be done on a daily basis.
Seeding, weeding, watering, pest control, trellising, pruning, composting, harvesting, planting and mulching.
I put in about 3 hours three times a week and another hour everyday to water and pick out a few pests, push the tomatoes and other vines back onto the trellis, prune and pull weeds.
Even so, I am still behind on all of the things I need to do. I have not been out in the garden much in the last couple of weeks because of the rain. I know that when I do get out there, I will have to put in extra time because the weeds really love the rain.
John Jeavons, author of How to Grow More Vegetables..., recommends that new gardeners start with 100 square feet the first year, 200 square feet the second year, 300 square feet the third year, and whatever they like after that. He even provides planting diagrams and succession recommendations and, for those with the room, tree-planting diagrams.
Starting small is a good idea. It helps new gardeners avoid the burn-out that can occur when trying to do/learn too much at once when starting up. Three hours three times a week! and still being behind!!! must represent much more than a "beginner" amount of space.
I have very little available space and have put in as many raised beds (in frames) as I can. I have 96 square feet under cultivation here at the house in the raised beds, plus as many pots/containers as I can arrange on the sunny side of the driveway. Occasionally I plant out in the parking strip, and that takes me over 100 square feet.
Although I've rented a 4'x8'x24" bed from the city for the last two seasons, the past several months have seen that bed become more and more difficult to get to, as my work has ramped up (so I can't get there during office hours, when they *want* us to go!) and the "improved" access system for evenings and weekends has been useless (the gate has two padlocks and gardeners have only one key; City workers are forever locking the gate with the lock we don't have the key to...). This bed was where I grew tomatoes in 2011 and 2012: it has a full southern exposure against a wall, so the temps are significantly higher than at my house. But I may give it up next month when the term expires b/c I just can't get to the bed to tend the plants....
So. 96 square feet. Unless I'm out there "communing with the plants," it simply doesn't take very long to check their health (insects? disease? is everybody OK?), pull the very few weeds that have grown among the veggies, stake up anything that looks like it wants staking, and water them.
Start small the first year. There's a lot to learn, and burn-out is real.
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Starting small is a good idea. It helps new gardeners avoid the burn-out that can occur when trying to do/learn too much at once when starting up. Three hours three times a week! and still being behind!!! must represent much more than a "beginner" amount of space.
I have very little available space and have put in as many raised beds (in frames) as I can. I have 96 square feet under cultivation here at the house in the raised beds, plus as many pots/containers as I can arrange on the sunny side of the driveway. Occasionally I plant out in the parking strip, and that takes me over 100 square feet.
Although I've rented a 4'x8'x24" bed from the city for the last two seasons, the past several months have seen that bed become more and more difficult to get to, as my work has ramped up (so I can't get there during office hours, when they *want* us to go!) and the "improved" access system for evenings and weekends has been useless (the gate has two padlocks and gardeners have only one key; City workers are forever locking the gate with the lock we don't have the key to...). This bed was where I grew tomatoes in 2011 and 2012: it has a full southern exposure against a wall, so the temps are significantly higher than at my house. But I may give it up next month when the term expires b/c I just can't get to the bed to tend the plants....
So. 96 square feet. Unless I'm out there "communing with the plants," it simply doesn't take very long to check their health (insects? disease? is everybody OK?), pull the very few weeds that have grown among the veggies, stake up anything that looks like it wants staking, and water them.
Start small the first year. There's a lot to learn, and burn-out is real.
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9