So I was a bit worried about the greens shooting for seed so I decided to move the whole greens cage to the other side of the balcony. This way, they'll only get sun until around noon and won't be exposed to harsh afternoon sun. I also added a thick layer of mulch on all the plants that are tall enough. The eggplant and little tomato are new transplants so I will wait a bit before covering their potting mix with mulch too. Hoping this mulch will limit the amount of watering I'll need to do once temperatures hit the 100's.
A Panorama of the whole balcony
Greens Cage Moved
Green Beans. Supposedly don't need trellising. We shall see.
New Brandy Wine Transplant. I'm supposed to NOT pinch the suckers on this right?
One of the Bell Peppers
Arugula
Early Girl has almost doubled in size. I've been pinching the suckers.
Chard
Celery
Been Feeding with Worm Castings + these two:
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
Your garden looks so good! Everything is getting big fast! Love those mild CA winters! Good plan with the lettuce, that should keep it from bolting for a while. Since you have it in containers and it won't pop up like a weed out of season, you could let it go to seed and collect them for sowing later. I usually get the best germination from the romaine seeds.
I never thought of growing green beans in a pot. Looks like it's going well! If they are bush beans they don't really need a cage, but will benefit from some support. I see the cage in the background of the picture and I have actually used them for my blue lake bush beans in the garden bed by turning it upside down, tying the loose prongs together, direct seeding the beans around the outside by each vertical wire. It'll grow up along it, but not necessarily attached to it. This makes the beans easier to harvest and my bush beans seem to get bigger when they have support. Don't tie it to the cage though, in your hot summer the beans will naturally fall over somewhat to protect themselves from the heat. The cage might fit in your pot that way, and will definitely fit the other way, which may work better for your plant placement.
What all are you eating from your garden so far?
I never thought of growing green beans in a pot. Looks like it's going well! If they are bush beans they don't really need a cage, but will benefit from some support. I see the cage in the background of the picture and I have actually used them for my blue lake bush beans in the garden bed by turning it upside down, tying the loose prongs together, direct seeding the beans around the outside by each vertical wire. It'll grow up along it, but not necessarily attached to it. This makes the beans easier to harvest and my bush beans seem to get bigger when they have support. Don't tie it to the cage though, in your hot summer the beans will naturally fall over somewhat to protect themselves from the heat. The cage might fit in your pot that way, and will definitely fit the other way, which may work better for your plant placement.
What all are you eating from your garden so far?
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
That's a pretty cool idea. I will definitely try that. I think the tomato cage will actually fit upside down, but if it doesn't I could get a smaller sized one maybe. The only thing thats grown enough for me to harvest so far are the salad greens. Very tasty. Wish I had more so I could eat more lol. Can the outer leaves of the Romaine be harvested too? Some of them are drooping as new growth is growing out of the inner bulb. I'm dying to eat them!sepeters wrote:Your garden looks so good! Everything is getting big fast! Love those mild CA winters! Good plan with the lettuce, that should keep it from bolting for a while. Since you have it in containers and it won't pop up like a weed out of season, you could let it go to seed and collect them for sowing later. I usually get the best germination from the romaine seeds.
I never thought of growing green beans in a pot. Looks like it's going well! If they are bush beans they don't really need a cage, but will benefit from some support. I see the cage in the background of the picture and I have actually used them for my blue lake bush beans in the garden bed by turning it upside down, tying the loose prongs together, direct seeding the beans around the outside by each vertical wire. It'll grow up along it, but not necessarily attached to it. This makes the beans easier to harvest and my bush beans seem to get bigger when they have support. Don't tie it to the cage though, in your hot summer the beans will naturally fall over somewhat to protect themselves from the heat. The cage might fit in your pot that way, and will definitely fit the other way, which may work better for your plant placement.
What all are you eating from your garden so far?
- Happy Days
- Senior Member
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:42 pm
- Location: Zone 7a, Sunset Zone 33
Yes, you can harvest the outer leaves of Romaine. Picking individual leaves may even slow bolting.
Also, when cutting the entire heads, you can leave a few leaves on the stem and the plants may then continue to sprout new leaves or even grow some little heads. Harvest these fairly quickly, as they will bolt quickly.
Also, when cutting the entire heads, you can leave a few leaves on the stem and the plants may then continue to sprout new leaves or even grow some little heads. Harvest these fairly quickly, as they will bolt quickly.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30551
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I grew chard indoors for my daughter last winter and it never had any more than three leaves at a time because I kept picking a leaf as soon as one got big enough for a sandwich.
You say you are pinching the suckers on the early girl tomato, but I seem to see three growing tips? It looks almost too lush to me, though I tend to under fertilize mine. Is early girl determinate or indeterminate? I haven't grown that variety in ages and don't remember. Determinate varieties shouldn't be pinched because they grow branches that self-terminate with flower trusses.
Brandywine is indeterminate. Why did you say you are not pinching the suckers? (maybe I should read the rest of the earlier posts).... Do you know if this is a "Sudduth" strain? ...usually, it's the indeterminates that are trained to a single vine by pinching the branch stems/suckers to save space. But "Sudduth" strain Brandywine has a rep for being a poor producer (though some people say otherwise) and its also a later maturing variety, though everyone agrees that when the fruits are finally ready, they are scrumptious.
Be careful not to give the tomatoes (and other fruiting crops) too much nitrogen. People who use a lot of scheduled fertilizers way there is a point when you need to switch over to high blooming/fruiting fertilizer like tomato-tone.
You say you are pinching the suckers on the early girl tomato, but I seem to see three growing tips? It looks almost too lush to me, though I tend to under fertilize mine. Is early girl determinate or indeterminate? I haven't grown that variety in ages and don't remember. Determinate varieties shouldn't be pinched because they grow branches that self-terminate with flower trusses.
Brandywine is indeterminate. Why did you say you are not pinching the suckers? (maybe I should read the rest of the earlier posts).... Do you know if this is a "Sudduth" strain? ...usually, it's the indeterminates that are trained to a single vine by pinching the branch stems/suckers to save space. But "Sudduth" strain Brandywine has a rep for being a poor producer (though some people say otherwise) and its also a later maturing variety, though everyone agrees that when the fruits are finally ready, they are scrumptious.
Be careful not to give the tomatoes (and other fruiting crops) too much nitrogen. People who use a lot of scheduled fertilizers way there is a point when you need to switch over to high blooming/fruiting fertilizer like tomato-tone.
Oh yeah, harvest the outer leaves of the romaine! And the chard is good raw when it's small like that. Your celery is big enough to harvest the outer leaves, too!
I'd like to offer a few celery tips because I struggled with celery for many years and it is difficult to grow in warm climates. If you want the celery to get nice and big and tall with thick stalks you'll want to side dress it with some compost/manure (small amounts) or 1 tablespoon granular fertilizer/soil once this month and again next month. Then continue fertilizing it as much as you do the tomatoes. Celery is finicky and an extremely heavy feeder! Don't transplant it if you can help it. If you let it get big you'll need to blanch it too, or it'll be bitter. Unless it is a self blanching variety.
I find blanched celery to be bland so I don't bother blanching mine anymore, it takes so long to grow large that I rarely harvest an entire head, except when it is time to get the seedlings out. I cut off all the outer stalks before they get too big and stringy and it grows more inner stalks. The leaves have a nice pungent celery flavor as well.
I'd like to offer a few celery tips because I struggled with celery for many years and it is difficult to grow in warm climates. If you want the celery to get nice and big and tall with thick stalks you'll want to side dress it with some compost/manure (small amounts) or 1 tablespoon granular fertilizer/soil once this month and again next month. Then continue fertilizing it as much as you do the tomatoes. Celery is finicky and an extremely heavy feeder! Don't transplant it if you can help it. If you let it get big you'll need to blanch it too, or it'll be bitter. Unless it is a self blanching variety.
I find blanched celery to be bland so I don't bother blanching mine anymore, it takes so long to grow large that I rarely harvest an entire head, except when it is time to get the seedlings out. I cut off all the outer stalks before they get too big and stringy and it grows more inner stalks. The leaves have a nice pungent celery flavor as well.
- Happy Days
- Senior Member
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:42 pm
- Location: Zone 7a, Sunset Zone 33
Thanks for the celery tips. What varieties do you recommend?
Last edited by Happy Days on Thu Feb 14, 2013 7:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Tango is the go-to variety and would probably grow very well in your area. It grows smooth, juicy stalks, is more upright than many other varieties and responds well to blanching. It likes the cold and doesn't tolerate drying out at all, so I think your humidity would be good for it. It is a short season variety, but you will still need to start the seeds indoors. I start mine 2 months before I put it outside when it is beginning to cool down for fall, but you could probably start yours in the spring in your climate, if you get them sown asap.Happy Days wrote:Thanks for the celergy tips. What varieties do you recommend?
I started with that, but it did not do well in the hot dry summers here and would go to seed prematurely.
Switched to a to a variety called red venture a few years back, the stalks don't get as thick as the tango and it is not very upright at all, but it is still pretty juicy and doesn't bolt til it's supposed to. It is more bitter in the summer months, but I mainly use it for soup or saute at that point. I have also started growing celeriac, which gets nice celery tops and has large, exceptional bulbs, that are not as fibrous as regular celery roots.
- Happy Days
- Senior Member
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:42 pm
- Location: Zone 7a, Sunset Zone 33
Happy Days- I am going to start a separate thread about celeriac so we don't take up too much room in here, and also so we can get the input of others. I myself have only grown one kind and am new to growing for the root. Lets see what everybody has to say!Happy Days wrote:I have thought about the celeriac and do believe I will try that. Are there varieties and, if so, which do you recommend?
- Happy Days
- Senior Member
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:42 pm
- Location: Zone 7a, Sunset Zone 33
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
I've been pinching all the flower clusters on all the plants and feeding veg nutes to keep them in veg. I know eventually I will need to switch the tomato to fruiting nutes but I want to veg it as much as I can. Last year my balcony consisted of a single early girl tomato plant which I maintained in this way. The fruit was incredibly bountiful and delicious. Believe it or not, ALL suckers have been pinched. None of what you see in the pics is a sucker. If it looks "too lush", I will credit the nutes
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
The time has come to switch some of the plants to flowering nutes. The bell peppers and early girl tomato have been growing well. I've been pinching all their flowers so far. Wanted to keep them in veg as much as possible. Here are the new nutes I will be be using:
My mixing bucket with an airstone. The main purpose here is to evaporate the chlorine but it does a fine job of keeping the mixture aerated and the nutrients evenly dispersed. Stinks up my kitchen with all the kelp and whatnot.
One of the Bell Peppers looking a little sad. I think I overfed this past week:
Early Girl Tomato:
The rest of these guys will continue on their regiment of high nitrogen nutes.
The brandy wine has almost doubled in size:
Chard and Zuccini off to the right:
Romaine has already been picked twice (outer leaves). Had an outbreak of aphids. Those scum bastards. Neem oil did absolutely nothing so I had to use non-organic stuff unfortunately but it worked and the nightmare is over:
Mixed Greens and Arugula sprouts seem to be growing slower than I'd like. I think they need more sun:
Has anyone else used these nutes before?
My mixing bucket with an airstone. The main purpose here is to evaporate the chlorine but it does a fine job of keeping the mixture aerated and the nutrients evenly dispersed. Stinks up my kitchen with all the kelp and whatnot.
One of the Bell Peppers looking a little sad. I think I overfed this past week:
Early Girl Tomato:
The rest of these guys will continue on their regiment of high nitrogen nutes.
The brandy wine has almost doubled in size:
Chard and Zuccini off to the right:
Romaine has already been picked twice (outer leaves). Had an outbreak of aphids. Those scum bastards. Neem oil did absolutely nothing so I had to use non-organic stuff unfortunately but it worked and the nightmare is over:
Mixed Greens and Arugula sprouts seem to be growing slower than I'd like. I think they need more sun:
Has anyone else used these nutes before?
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
Because I saw a few youtube videos advising not to pinch brandy wine suckers. Anyone can make a video though. Was hoping for a more concrete answer. Should I? There are two tiny suckers forming and if its necessary I'd like to pinch them now.applestar wrote:I grew chard indoors for my daughter last winter and it never had any more than three leaves at a time because I kept picking a leaf as soon as one got big enough for a sandwich.
You say you are pinching the suckers on the early girl tomato, but I seem to see three growing tips? It looks almost too lush to me, though I tend to under fertilize mine. Is early girl determinate or indeterminate? I haven't grown that variety in ages and don't remember. Determinate varieties shouldn't be pinched because they grow branches that self-terminate with flower trusses.
Brandywine is indeterminate. Why did you say you are not pinching the suckers? (maybe I should read the rest of the earlier posts).... Do you know if this is a "Sudduth" strain? ...usually, it's the indeterminates that are trained to a single vine by pinching the branch stems/suckers to save space. But "Sudduth" strain Brandywine has a rep for being a poor producer (though some people say otherwise) and its also a later maturing variety, though everyone agrees that when the fruits are finally ready, they are scrumptious.
Be careful not to give the tomatoes (and other fruiting crops) too much nitrogen. People who use a lot of scheduled fertilizers way there is a point when you need to switch over to high blooming/fruiting fertilizer like tomato-tone.
Thanks!
- Happy Days
- Senior Member
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:42 pm
- Location: Zone 7a, Sunset Zone 33
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
You do know the Neem oil is not a poison that kills on contact? It works after ingestion, as a biodisrupter, interfering with the insects' processes, including ability to eat & procreate. It takes a little while to see results. It may be that the Neem was working fine and you just didn't give it enough time.
However it has to be ingested, so it works better against leaf eaters. The aphids are suckers not chewers, so they may not ingest enough just boring through.
Soapy water should work against the aphids. Or you can just squish them -- they are slow and stupid and just sit there and let you do that. I have a couple plants that get covered in aphids every spring. I just go over them with a tissue, squishing everything. That seems to take care of it, and they don't come back until the next spring.
However it has to be ingested, so it works better against leaf eaters. The aphids are suckers not chewers, so they may not ingest enough just boring through.
Soapy water should work against the aphids. Or you can just squish them -- they are slow and stupid and just sit there and let you do that. I have a couple plants that get covered in aphids every spring. I just go over them with a tissue, squishing everything. That seems to take care of it, and they don't come back until the next spring.
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
rainbowgardener wrote:You do know the Neem oil is not a poison that kills on contact? It works after ingestion, as a biodisrupter, interfering with the insects' processes, including ability to eat & procreate. It takes a little while to see results. It may be that the Neem was working fine and you just didn't give it enough time.
However it has to be ingested, so it works better against leaf eaters. The aphids are suckers not chewers, so they may not ingest enough just boring through.
Soapy water should work against the aphids. Or you can just squish them -- they are slow and stupid and just sit there and let you do that. I have a couple plants that get covered in aphids every spring. I just go over them with a tissue, squishing everything. That seems to take care of it, and they don't come back until the next spring.
I used it for a week straight before I resorted to chems. Guess you are right, the aphids are suckers they don't eat the leaves.
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
Here's a quick update!
The whole garden
The brandywine has tripled in size!
Up close shot of Brandywine Flowering:
The Early Girl being trained up 5 stakes:
And up close:
Chard has already been harvested 2 times. So delicious:
Eggplant has started to bud. You can also see what's left of the Romaine off to the right:
Strawberries. I wish I had more space to plant more! 1 treat a week is too much of a tease:
Zucchini:
This herb garden is the most recent addition. Apple Mint, Regular Basil, Boxwood Basil, Sage and German Thyme:
How does it look?
The whole garden
The brandywine has tripled in size!
Up close shot of Brandywine Flowering:
The Early Girl being trained up 5 stakes:
And up close:
Chard has already been harvested 2 times. So delicious:
Eggplant has started to bud. You can also see what's left of the Romaine off to the right:
Strawberries. I wish I had more space to plant more! 1 treat a week is too much of a tease:
Zucchini:
This herb garden is the most recent addition. Apple Mint, Regular Basil, Boxwood Basil, Sage and German Thyme:
How does it look?
Everything looks great! Is that the zucchini to the left of the romaine? Or the eggplant? (I must be goin blind.) I was wondering if I could put squash in a pot...now I know! I love how we all learn from each other here!
Betcha can't wait to eat those brandywines!!! The romaine is getting tall because it is beginning to bolt and will flower soon. Do you plan to collect seed from it?
Sure, you may have spent more money on the initial investment of the pots, soil, ferts, etc, than you will save the first year, but that is typical of any first year garden. You'll be able to use all that stuff for several years to come with only a small investment to amend the soil and buy new fert. Besides, there are few hobbies as rewarding as gardening and the benefits you reap are much larger than the harvest ever will be.
Betcha can't wait to eat those brandywines!!! The romaine is getting tall because it is beginning to bolt and will flower soon. Do you plan to collect seed from it?
Sure, you may have spent more money on the initial investment of the pots, soil, ferts, etc, than you will save the first year, but that is typical of any first year garden. You'll be able to use all that stuff for several years to come with only a small investment to amend the soil and buy new fert. Besides, there are few hobbies as rewarding as gardening and the benefits you reap are much larger than the harvest ever will be.
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
You guys are all correct. The initial investment cost me about $200. I did not start this project as a means to save money. Truthfully it was a combination of watching The Walking Dead and Doomsday Preppers that got me wondering about what would happen if there was some kind of a disaster (see my username)? I live in the city. All the supermarkets would be empty in a week. Not owning a home or having any kind of land to cultivate I was curious if I really could survive on my own. Granted the plants I have right now will not produce enough food to keep me alive for long but I wanted to see if it was even possible to grow food in such a small space. This was mostly an experiment and also a hobby. I work in the high-stress industries of real estate and finance. Watering the plants "in my garden" is remarkably good therapy and helps me get my mind off things.
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
Dillbert wrote:how does that look? spectacular - nice work!
ref
"The brandywine has tripled in size!"
some dude in a shark movie said it best when it comes to Brandywines....
"You're gonna need a bigger boat . . . "
mine routinely go to 5-6 high & 6-8 feet in diameter.
pruners,,,, pruners are your friend (g)
I was told not to remove the suckers on this particular variety of tomato. The early girl however does not have any suckers. They have all been pinched. I'm glad you are experienced with this variety....please give me any tips or suggestions. Thanks!
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA
sepeters wrote:Everything looks great! Is that the zucchini to the left of the romaine? Or the eggplant? (I must be goin blind.) I was wondering if I could put squash in a pot...now I know! I love how we all learn from each other here!
Betcha can't wait to eat those brandywines!!! The romaine is getting tall because it is beginning to bolt and will flower soon. Do you plan to collect seed from it?
Sure, you may have spent more money on the initial investment of the pots, soil, ferts, etc, than you will save the first year, but that is typical of any first year garden. You'll be able to use all that stuff for several years to come with only a small investment to amend the soil and buy new fert. Besides, there are few hobbies as rewarding as gardening and the benefits you reap are much larger than the harvest ever will be.
Yes. I am going to attempt to harvest seeds from everything I grow if possible. I've never done it before though. Any tips? Th anks.
>>removing suckers
everybody has a theory on this one. I've never seen any definitive "proof" one way or the other that removing / leaving suckers does "X"
I've grown Brandywines since the '70's - most years they go gangbusters; now and then they don't - likely more weather related during fruit set than anything else.
I don't pinch out the suckers on any of my tomato plants - because I'm too lazy and I always have more tomatoes than I can eat . . . .
frequently a tomato will send off a limb in the bad / wrong / inconvenient direction - which I promptly prune off. but that's all they get in terms of 'artificial' management.
>>saving seeds
I didn't take note earlier - but if you're growing hybrid varieties, seeds won't come true - making that exercise not so valuable.
everybody has a theory on this one. I've never seen any definitive "proof" one way or the other that removing / leaving suckers does "X"
I've grown Brandywines since the '70's - most years they go gangbusters; now and then they don't - likely more weather related during fruit set than anything else.
I don't pinch out the suckers on any of my tomato plants - because I'm too lazy and I always have more tomatoes than I can eat . . . .
frequently a tomato will send off a limb in the bad / wrong / inconvenient direction - which I promptly prune off. but that's all they get in terms of 'artificial' management.
>>saving seeds
I didn't take note earlier - but if you're growing hybrid varieties, seeds won't come true - making that exercise not so valuable.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30551
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Watching the garden you personally tended grow, and harvesting the fruits of your labor?
...Priceless.
looking absolutely fabulous.
Look UP. Picture hanging baskets of strawberry plants....
(You may have to put mirrors on the ceiling of your balcony to increase reflected light.... )
...Priceless.
looking absolutely fabulous.
I loved that comment.Strawberries. I wish I had more space to plant more! 1 treat a week is too much of a tease:
Look UP. Picture hanging baskets of strawberry plants....
(You may have to put mirrors on the ceiling of your balcony to increase reflected light.... )
Collecting seeds is one of the things I find most fulfilling about gardening. Cradle to grave, in the best, most sustainable way. You'll be feeling very self sufficient when you harvest your first set of home grown seeds!
Some seeds will be very easy to collect and you won't really need directions for stuff like the eggplant, peppers, squash, etc.
Collecting tomato seeds is a little different, and kinda gross. You scoop out the seeds and save them in a container til they get a little moldy, then rinse and dry them. There's some really good directions for that in the tomato forum.
The lettuce will be a little different too, but not gross or moldy, lol. They will continue to get taller and grow leaves on the central stalk (at this point the lettuce will be bitter, you may not want to eat it) then it will produce lots of little yellow flowers. The flowers will eventually close and drop the petals and then (finally) after a few more days you will see little white wisps (just like dandelions) poking out. At this point you want to start clipping off the flowers that look wispy on an individual basis, or they will blow away in the breeze. Separate the seeds from the chaff (I just roll them gently between my thumb and forefinger til the little brown seeds fall away), save and label the seeds, discard the chaff. And now you have seeds to plant in late summer for a fall bumper crop of lettuce.
Some seeds will be very easy to collect and you won't really need directions for stuff like the eggplant, peppers, squash, etc.
Collecting tomato seeds is a little different, and kinda gross. You scoop out the seeds and save them in a container til they get a little moldy, then rinse and dry them. There's some really good directions for that in the tomato forum.
The lettuce will be a little different too, but not gross or moldy, lol. They will continue to get taller and grow leaves on the central stalk (at this point the lettuce will be bitter, you may not want to eat it) then it will produce lots of little yellow flowers. The flowers will eventually close and drop the petals and then (finally) after a few more days you will see little white wisps (just like dandelions) poking out. At this point you want to start clipping off the flowers that look wispy on an individual basis, or they will blow away in the breeze. Separate the seeds from the chaff (I just roll them gently between my thumb and forefinger til the little brown seeds fall away), save and label the seeds, discard the chaff. And now you have seeds to plant in late summer for a fall bumper crop of lettuce.
- ReptileAddiction
- Greener Thumb
- Posts: 866
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:52 am
- Location: Southern California
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:08 am
- Location: Glendale, CA