I went out to my community garden for the first time in three weeks because it has been raining so much. This is the garden that pretty much lives on rain. When it gets a lot of rain it goes crazy.
Needless to say the radish had bloomed and I had pak choi that was over two feet tall. I was going to compost it because it is so old, but my neighbor said he'd take it to make soup. The rest of the overgrown plants will end up recycled in the garden. the daikon will reseed itself.
I do have some persistant weeds. Nutsedge, bidens (spanish needle) and hohohono grasss (commelina diffusa), and ivy gourd. The nutsedge blew over from a neighboring plot, but the other weeds came from the city mulch I used.
I am not allowed to use herbicides in the community garden.
Except for the nutsedge, most the weeds are shallow rooted.
Just can't leave any pieces of the the honohono grass or ivy gourd in the ground and the biden multiplies like rabbits.
Short of visiting my garden more often and pulling this stuff out. Any ideas on how I can get better control of the weeds?
It gets difficult with frequent rain, Imafan.
Of course, there is mulch but that may or may not make sense with a lot of rain. Personally, I'm not real fond of mulch except I'm willing to try anything to suppress the weeds in the perennials. Mulch can be a wonderful home for critters that you don't want in your garden.
I am a firm believer in hand weeding and just tilling permanent paths as needed. A stool is always welcome and I will just use latex gloves with weed seedlings. Timing is everything! Going thru the beds can be done easily if the weeds are still going on their seed leaves. A couple trips thru and the garden plants can often smother them after that.
Of course, they get away from me sometimes. I just have to resign myself to having grown a "compost crop" when that happens. And, that is my preferred mulch - compost. But, I hardly think of compost as a mulch and just feel lucky to be able to use it on whatever ground I can cover. I wonder if you can do a quick, weedseed-killing composting of what you are getting from the city with some high nitrogen addition . . .
I've weeded under an umbrella before. I know I'm supposed to stay out of there at that time but with permanent paths, at least I'm not worried about packing down the soil. If I can get past the first couple months of the growing season here, there isn't much rain if any to worry about after that.
Steve
Of course, there is mulch but that may or may not make sense with a lot of rain. Personally, I'm not real fond of mulch except I'm willing to try anything to suppress the weeds in the perennials. Mulch can be a wonderful home for critters that you don't want in your garden.
I am a firm believer in hand weeding and just tilling permanent paths as needed. A stool is always welcome and I will just use latex gloves with weed seedlings. Timing is everything! Going thru the beds can be done easily if the weeds are still going on their seed leaves. A couple trips thru and the garden plants can often smother them after that.
Of course, they get away from me sometimes. I just have to resign myself to having grown a "compost crop" when that happens. And, that is my preferred mulch - compost. But, I hardly think of compost as a mulch and just feel lucky to be able to use it on whatever ground I can cover. I wonder if you can do a quick, weedseed-killing composting of what you are getting from the city with some high nitrogen addition . . .
I've weeded under an umbrella before. I know I'm supposed to stay out of there at that time but with permanent paths, at least I'm not worried about packing down the soil. If I can get past the first couple months of the growing season here, there isn't much rain if any to worry about after that.
Steve
I've fallen in the garden a couple of times, so I just stay out of it after it has rained a lot. Otherwise, if it is just a passing shower, I just duck and pray.
I put down weed cloth on the paths because all I did when I went there was weed paths. My neighbor told me how to tell the good mulch from the bad ones and he helped haul it to my garden. I spread it on 4-6 inches on the paths. It helps for a while and then the weeds grow over it again.
For the beds, my neighbor said to just keep the beds planted to out compete the weeds.
I tried to compost the weeds, but I did not set up the pile right, the weeds, ape, and bougainvillea trimmings kept right on growing in the pile. Now, I just take the weeds to the recycling center. I just green manure the overgrown plants that are not sick. I guess I just have to just keep going at it. Thanks for the moral support.
I was not a big fan of mulch, either. I learned from this forum that I was using it wrong since I put it on very thick right up to the plants. I spent all my time watering the mulch and the ground was still dry until I put soakers under the mulch.
Mongoose dig up the mulch and there are hills and holes that constantly need refilling. Mulch is also notorious for centipedes. No fun getting stung and the snails and slugs hide in it.
The only mulch that has worked out was pine needles for weed control. Some plants (garlic) really did not like it (the garlic died), but it does not have to go on thick, doesn't pack down, lets lots of air in, breaks down very slowly, and the mongoose don't bother it. I just have a limited supply available.
I put down weed cloth on the paths because all I did when I went there was weed paths. My neighbor told me how to tell the good mulch from the bad ones and he helped haul it to my garden. I spread it on 4-6 inches on the paths. It helps for a while and then the weeds grow over it again.
For the beds, my neighbor said to just keep the beds planted to out compete the weeds.
I tried to compost the weeds, but I did not set up the pile right, the weeds, ape, and bougainvillea trimmings kept right on growing in the pile. Now, I just take the weeds to the recycling center. I just green manure the overgrown plants that are not sick. I guess I just have to just keep going at it. Thanks for the moral support.
I was not a big fan of mulch, either. I learned from this forum that I was using it wrong since I put it on very thick right up to the plants. I spent all my time watering the mulch and the ground was still dry until I put soakers under the mulch.
Mongoose dig up the mulch and there are hills and holes that constantly need refilling. Mulch is also notorious for centipedes. No fun getting stung and the snails and slugs hide in it.
The only mulch that has worked out was pine needles for weed control. Some plants (garlic) really did not like it (the garlic died), but it does not have to go on thick, doesn't pack down, lets lots of air in, breaks down very slowly, and the mongoose don't bother it. I just have a limited supply available.
- Gary_Snail
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Cardboard covered with mulch in the pathways works the best for me. All the other areas have what I consider cover crops, such as sweet potato, mint, Jerusalem artichoke and Malabar spinach, even mustard will work. These areas can be left to their own, until you are ready to plant in them.
In John's video, he shares some good advice about planting in community gardens.
Planting things that no one suspects are valuable.
Harvesting Yacon Tubers and Chinese Artichokes aka Crosne at the Community
Oh, and if you find a source for Crosne there in Hawaii, maybe you could post where you found them.
This might be another good plant for community gardens and as a ground cover as well.
Molokia, 'Egyptian Spinach'
Last edited by Gary_Snail on Sat Jan 19, 2013 7:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- PunkRotten
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- Gary_Snail
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I thought that you had to be careful using cardboard because so much of the cardboard is shipped from overseas...like China...and they use funky stuff for glue that might be harmful.
I think the heavy cover of cardboard is great but if I can not identify the company that makes the actual box I avoid it. I use two pieces of newspaper sometime three with heavy layer of mulch, grass clippings, straw etc. You would think the paper would tear under constant walking but it doesn't when there is a heavy coat of mulch.
Then I hand pick the weeds that grow up near my veggies and flowers. I also used shredded paper which is the absolute best. Three inches of that and it's like concrete to the plant underneath. The only problem is getting enough of it. The other danger is a fine shred like some of the new cross cut paper cutters. Way to fine and smothers the ground, shredded strips are much better.
I think the heavy cover of cardboard is great but if I can not identify the company that makes the actual box I avoid it. I use two pieces of newspaper sometime three with heavy layer of mulch, grass clippings, straw etc. You would think the paper would tear under constant walking but it doesn't when there is a heavy coat of mulch.
Then I hand pick the weeds that grow up near my veggies and flowers. I also used shredded paper which is the absolute best. Three inches of that and it's like concrete to the plant underneath. The only problem is getting enough of it. The other danger is a fine shred like some of the new cross cut paper cutters. Way to fine and smothers the ground, shredded strips are much better.
May I add that if you go the cardboard route be careful if you place mulch on top of that. I put down cardboard and them placed my grass clippings on top and after a couple rains it got VERY slick!
As for the newspaper...as long as you stay away from the glossy paper (which feels like plastic if you ask me) you are OK. The print is now soy based.
As for the newspaper...as long as you stay away from the glossy paper (which feels like plastic if you ask me) you are OK. The print is now soy based.
I have weed block. It also gets slick especially if it is muddy. That's why I stay away from the garden when it is wet. I do have mulch over the weed block. Unfortunately some of the weeds came from the mulch itself. I also use newspaper not on paths but under my potted plants. It slows the weeds down but does not stop them. Newspaper is surprisingly non-slick. It does tear and that is why I use it mostly under pots. I have to replace it every three months or so. I usually don't use the shiny paper only the printed pages.
- ElizabethB
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