Drip Irrigation Not Dripping

[clutchrider]

I cut the tubing and layed it out with the connectors, however turn the water on and nada. It is flowing and coming out the valve at the end of the line but it is not coming through the little holes. The hose is 1 gallon per hour and so I took a piece and connected it on it's own and plugged the end with my finger. Seems it takes a good amount of pressure to actually get the water to flow out the little holes, more than I thought. To the point that it would start to drip and then spit my finger off the end of the pipe.

Did I get hose that is built for too strong a flow? If I turn the pressure up on the system the T and Elbow connectors spit off in certain places as I have not sealed them with any kind of silicone or anything else.

Would love some insight on whether I should just toss the tubing and pickup a Rainbird type system or just buy some tubing and drill my own holes.

Also I do not have a pressure regulator (yet), but maybe someone can explain what that specifically does (obviously regulates the pressure) but in terms of allowing the drippers to work. The water is flowing through the tube and the drippers work when I turn the faucet up (to a pretty high setting) but it causes the connectors to blow off.

[dtlove129]

I just installed one myself. I use the regulator because it will take your PSI down from whatever it is to say 25 psi based on the regulator. I'm not an expert, but mine worked just fine. I covered probably a 1250 sq foot garden this weekend. I can't believe you didn't get water out of any of them. If you had said some dripped and others didn't then I would say you didn't have enough gallons per minute coming from your hose, but I don't think that would be the case for none of them dripping. Did you let it run long enough to actually get all the hoses full of water so that they would start dripping? Did you close the flush out (the connection you put on at the end to flush the water out)? Did you make sure there weren't any kinks?

[DoubleDogFarm]

If you are using pressure compensating drip hose, the whole system needs to reach 10psi before the emitters will open.

Eric

[clutchrider]

If you are using pressure compensating drip hose, the whole system needs to reach 10psi before the emitters will open.

Eric

I assume this may be it since it only worked when I did that small section with my thumb. I just need to figure out how to get the hose to stay on the connectors.

[dtlove129]

On what connectors?

[clutchrider]

Pretty much these types

[img]https://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21ZPSLNAqDL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/img]

[dtlove129]

Well mine was 1/2 tubing and I had 1/2 barbed couplers like you just showed. Mine when I pushed that 1/2 inch tubing up on those things it took all I had to pull them back apart. That is when I decided that I would not pull it apart every year when winter approaches, I'm just going to try and drain it well. If you are using the right size fittings they should be hard to push over the barb and then even harder to pull back apart.

[DoubleDogFarm]

I like this style coupler. It's a little more money, but you can take them apart. https://www.dripworks.com/category/easyloc12

These are cheaper, but a pain in the butt to reuse. https://www.dripworks.com/category/comp12

A barbed fitting, like the one you pictured, requires a hose clamp.

All drip systems should have a filter, regulator and check valve or vacuum breaker.

Eric

[dtlove129]

DD, the barb fitting shouldn't need a hose clamp. I plain t would need a hose clamp. I have several tees and elbows in mine, and no clamps on them and ran it this past Saturday after getting it hooked up and didn't have any leaks at those areas.

[TheWaterbug]

I like this style coupler. It's a little more money, but you can take them apart. https://www.dripworks.com/category/easyloc12

These are cheaper, but a pain in the butt to reuse. https://www.dripworks.com/category/comp12

I've tried both types, and I can't disassemble either type. After a lot of jumping up and down and swearing, it's easier to just cut it off and say "I'll pull the fitting off some other time."

I now have a box with ~50 fittings, each with ~2-3 inches of tube on every end.

Any suggestions?

[dtlove129]

Now take you a boxcutter and slice the fitting off. I did that Saturday when I got tired of dealing with one.

[DoubleDogFarm]

I like this style coupler. It's a little more money, but you can take them apart. https://www.dripworks.com/category/easyloc12

These are cheaper, but a pain in the butt to reuse. https://www.dripworks.com/category/comp12

I've tried both types, and I can't disassemble either type. After a lot of jumping up and down and swearing, it's easier to just cut it off and say "I'll pull the fitting off some other time."

I now have a box with ~50 fittings, each with ~2-3 inches of tube on every end.

Any suggestions?

The compression style. I leave about a half inch sticking out of the coupler. Grab the tubing with needle nose pliers and roll it collapsing it away and pull out. Easier heated by the sun or hot water.

Easy-loc I just wiggle and pull off the tubing. Also easier on a warm day.

Eric

[Dillbert]

>>Also I do not have a pressure regulator (yet), but maybe someone can explain what that specifically does (obviously regulates the pressure) but in terms of allowing the drippers to work. The water is flowing through the tube and the drippers work when I turn the faucet up (to a pretty high setting) but it causes the connectors to blow off.

clutchrider -

you have identified the problem.

as someone mentioned, drip emitters require a minimum line pressure to work.

too much pressure blows things apart.

the pressure regulator keeps the pressure high enough to work and not so high as to blow the lines apart.

if you use a barb connector on a garden hose at 60-80 psi household pressure, you'll need a hose clamp.

if you use a barb connector on a drip line at 10 psi, you don't need a hose clamp.

[clutchrider]

Thanks for the awesome replies folks. I think I found two issues.

1) There seems to be two types of connectors I saw in the store. Both are labeled as 1/2" but I went for the ones that were smaller as they fit better (reas easier and not as well sealed or tight). When I put the backflow piece in it was hard as heck to put in and I cannot get it out. So I think I got the wrong size connectors.

2) I am going to pickup the connectors and see if that helps. Then look around for a regulator. I checked most the stores and it seems to be an online buy for one. I know there are a ton of irrigation sites but what recommendations do you offer for a decent model (no idea the cost structure) that will do it's job and not kill my budget. I'm thinking around $30 (off the top of my head).

[DoubleDogFarm]

Thanks for the awesome replies folks. I think I found two issues.

1) There seems to be two types of connectors I saw in the store. Both are labeled as 1/2" but I went for the ones that were smaller as they fit better (reas easier and not as well sealed or tight). When I put the back flow piece in it was hard as heck to put in and I cannot get it out. So I think I got the wrong size connectors.

2) I am going to pickup the connectors and see if that helps. Then look around for a regulator. I checked most the stores and it seems to be an online buy for one. I know there are a ton of irrigation sites but what recommendations do you offer for a decent model (no idea the cost structure) that will do it's job and not kill my budget. I'm thinking around $30 (off the top of my head).

Yes, Cheap Rainbird tubing is .620 OD and Standard .700 OD.

We have used many different regulators and filters. We only use this style today. https://www.dripworks.com/product/Q_PRLV
https://www.dripworks.com/product/Q_FA

We install both the filter and regulator above the timer. This filter and regulator can be under constant pressure.

Eric

[clutchrider]

The time I am skipping. The hose outlet I am splitting and putting the filter/regulator on one of the spiget splits with a 25'hose to reach the garden. Thanks.

[Fig3825]

This is how I had mine set up last year:

From right to left, you have the timer (green box), the bucket filter, the backflow preventer and then the pressure reducing valve.

[img]https://www.jtnewton.com/Images/Garden/005.jpg[/img]


Beyond this point, it went to a "T". Each pipe from the "T" also went to a "T". Then the 4 pipes went to 4 beds. Total of about 100LF of drip (25 in each bed). Worked GREAT.

[TheWaterbug]

timer (green box)

I have the [url=https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-56233D-3-Outlet-Digital-Watering/dp/B004PVK4GK/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1335289327&sr=1-1]three outlet version[/url] of that Orbit timer box, and I've been pretty darn happy with it.

Two of the outlets are independently programmable, and the 3rd is a manual outlet with a lever. This manual one is great because I can hand water stuff without having to dis/reconnect stuff from the timers.

I also have a cheap Melnor timer that I bought from Home Depot, and I don't like it nearly as much.

[DoubleDogFarm]

For single zone setups, I like this timer. The programming head comes off for programming.

https://www.dripworks.com/product/TORLCD

and this one for multiple zones
https://www.dripworks.com/product/Q_TCSTR

Eric

[dtlove129]

This is how I had mine set up last year:

From right to left, you have the timer (green box), the bucket filter, the backflow preventer and then the pressure reducing valve.

[img]https://www.jtnewton.com/Images/Garden/005.jpg[/img]


Beyond this point, it went to a "T". Each pipe from the "T" also went to a "T". Then the 4 pipes went to 4 beds. Total of about 100LF of drip (25 in each bed). Worked GREAT.

What is all the landscape fabric for?

[Fig3825]

It's weed blocker. Planted through it and mulched on top. I ended up ripping most of it out during trial and error and because with the mulch, the soil stayed too wet.