kierag
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Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2011 8:48 pm
Location: beaumont, tx

do I have to have rows

This is my 3rd year to plant. 1st was great. 2nd was bad. Pretty much everything went bad from mold, bugs or bottom end rot. I wanted to try something different because I can't get my rows right . They are 2 big and not enough space in between. I know it sounds simple but its not working for me. I have planted my tomatoes and built alittle dirt around the plant also I did make a wide row for.my zucchini and squash to keep them out of the water and hopefully keep the mold down. My question is... Will this work or am I wasting my time

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soil
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Posts: 1855
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:40 pm
Location: N. California

no you don't have to plant in rows. in fact, I don't plant anything in rows. polycropping is the best when it comes to a gardens natural pest resistance. look into the permaculture forum here for more information.

orgoveg
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Posts: 468
Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:06 pm
Location: Ohio

I also don't plant anything in rows anymore. I just loosen the soil with a fork, stirrup hoe the top layer, and let the seeds fall where they may. I thin appropriately later. The only difference I've noticed is that I don't get exposed roots anymore (which is a good thing).

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KeriFord
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Posts: 122
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:50 pm
Location: South Arkansas

I almost didn't plant in rows this year, but then it rained for 2days and showed me how bad I'd be flooded by the end of April. So if you have good runoff...then I'm jealous. :)

DoubleDogFarm
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Posts: 6113
Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm

I read your post a couple times to understand. I think you are asking, should I grow on raised rows? I would say yes, if you are have a drainage problem.

Raised rows:
Drain better
Can be planted earlier in the Spring. Raised rows dry out and warm up sooner.
The soil is less compacted, because you are not walking on it. Easier for the roots to penetrate. This is especially good for root crops.
[img]https://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h300/eric_wa/Double%20Dog%20Farm%20%20%20Vegetable%20Garden/DuckMoat.jpg[/img]

Eric

cynthia_h
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Posts: 7500
Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 7:02 pm
Location: El Cerrito, CA

Take a look at Jon Jeavons' system of double-digging (you only have to do it the first time the bed is brought into production). It results in a slightly raised planting bed. Then he suggests planting on a triangular grid so that the plants will just touch one another when they reach their mature size.

Meanwhile, as the larger plants are growing into their size, you have planted smaller ones between them which will be harvested before the large ones are and will benefit from the moisture-retaining properties of the larger plants' leaves acting as a partial shield.

Jon Jeavons, [url=https://www.bountifulgardens.org/prodinfo.asp?number=BEA-0301]How to Grow More Vegetables* (7th ed.)[/url]

And wouldn't you know it--While looking at Jeavons' site, I saw that he has now published the 8th edition, spiral bound, of his book. He's also made the info available via DVD, for those who prefer that method of learning. :)

Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9



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