pickupguy07
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small corn ears

I have had corn start coming in... ears seem to be a bit small.. but they are finished IMO
I peeled back some of the shuck and the kernals are soft, and when you pop one it is milky looking..
The top couple inches of the ears doesn't have any kernals on it... but I am afraid if I leave it until the very top grows kernals,.. then the rest of the ear will be too old and tough

What's you folks thoughts..
And anyone have an idea why the ears (possibly) matured while still so small
How can I get bigger ears.

This year they were grown in the garden with stable manure incoorportaed into it .. Rest of garden is doing awesome.. just curious about my corn.

johnny123
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Without writting a book on what could be wrong because there are many factors that could result in a bad yeild
Soil fertility is poor. Small ears.
Lack of N, P, or K will produce poorly filled ear tips.
N is a big factor growing corn.
Corn are heavy nitrogen feeders.

Bottom line: Soil nutrients are not right for corn.



If there is a farm near you growing corn? Go have a talk.
Most farmers will be happy to help you in how to improve your soil for corn.

If the kernals are full of milk eat and enjoy.
Last edited by johnny123 on Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

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rainbowgardener
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I don't know... corn is a heavy feeder, needs a lot of nitrogen. But if you put manure in your soil, I can't imagine that you don't have enough nitrogen. I've grown corn in soil that was less rich than that.

The top couple inches with no kernals sounds like a pollination problem. Each individual kernal has to be individually pollinated with its own grain of pollen. If that didn't happen, that kernal won't develop. If that's the case, leaving the ear longer will not help. The developed kernals will as you said get old and tough, but the other ones still will not develop.

So why didn't they get pollinated? You'd have to tell us more about what your conditions have been like, weather etc. How much corn were you growing? Sometimes people try to grow just a little bit of corn, or spread it out too much, like one long row. Then there's not dense enough quantities of pollen around the ears. It grows better in fairly dense blocks.

Here's something I found:

Q. Why are ears of corn underdeveloped at the tip end?

A. This is common not only in gardens, but also in large commercial planting. Several explanations have been suggested as the cause including nutrient deficiency, loss of foliage because of disease with correspondingly lower food manufacturing capacity, cool temperatures during ear maturity and low moisture. Corn is cross-pollinated by wind-blown pollen from the male flowers or tassels at the top of the plant to the female flowers or silks about midway up the stalks. Each kernel develops from an individually pollinated silk. Kernels develop near the middle and base of the ear first with those at the tip developing last. When unfavorable conditions occur such as those mentioned above, those kernels pollinated first will take precedence over those pollinated last. This often results in failure of the kernels near the tip to develop properly.

https://sustainable.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/vegetables/corn.html

Note the cool temps and low moistures part. Does any of that apply to you?

johnny123
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Right.

From your post:

When unfavorable conditions occur such as those mentioned above, those kernels pollinated first will take precedence over those pollinated last. This often results in failure of the kernels near the tip to develop properly.

What is the first thing the author put in the list.

Like I said in my post there are many factors and nutrients is a main one.

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rainbowgardener
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I'm not really arguing with you... If the soil is low in nutrients, especially nitrogen, that would definitely cause it. It's just hard for me to imagine that soil that has had manure added this season is low in nitrogen.

pickupguy07
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I tend to lean towards Rainbow's response.
The garden had a lot of stable manure worked into the soil and it seems pretty rich. The soils I stated with before adding anything were in pretty good shape to start with.
In large part worked in the manure to help loosen up the soil, more than for adding nutrients, but it's a bonus.
What puzzed me was that everything is my garden was done splendidly (except the corn)
I know that no one will remember, but I posted a post here a month or so ago.. saying "My corn is less than 5 feet tall and tassling already, and the ears look to small"
Of course it is a 'best guess on everyones part.. but the overall concensus was "It'll be fine".
But in retrospect it either "is" or it "isn't".... once it starts growing.. not much you can do to influence it one way or the other.

As far as the rows.. I planted three rows about 2 1/2 feet apart, and about 10 feet long. even threw in a little 10-10-10 whenI planted.
Actually conditions had been pretty favorable to grow crops, When I first planted all the crops weather was nice etc.
As the corn matured, I saw to it that the crops all had the amount of water they needed. We had a long dry spell here, and we have had 20+ days in a row with temps over 90. SO I been watering the plants to give them what they need. (I have to watch and not over water - but so far I'm managed to hold myself back --lol)
SO I'm kind of stumped as to what happened... the kernals it produced are a little on the small side (as is the ear)
Seems like good soil, along with proper water, plenty of heat... still got bad results

Let me ask this. I know you said corn is a heavy N feeder
DO you think I may have planted it near the "wrong" plants. My corn rows are on the outside of the garden. Nexst to the corn are lima beans, and squash. I have squash and lma beans by the ton. I been eating squash for 3 weeks, and have so much coming up I have already frozen 10 one gallon bags full. I have 15 or so more small sqaush on the vine, and probably 50 more blooms on yet (all this off of three seeds)
I planted climbing lima beans, and I'm gonna have WAY more of these than I can use.. There are just blooms and pods started by the hundreds. SO curious if the squash / beans may also use heavy N.. so it could be pulling it from the corn.
But on a more logical note, if they both are heavy N feeders seems they all would suffer equally.
Just trying to learn what I can...to help for the future.

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rainbowgardener
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Squash, bean, and corn are the traditional "three sisters" that the Native Americans planted together. They would grow the squash between the corn plants and the beans up the corn stalk. Beans, including limas, are nitrogen fixers, they add N to the soil from the air. It's one reason they grow well with corn.

That is not the problem.

Rich soil, warm temps, plenty of water, I'm not sure what is.

Here is a total GUESS, based on what you said about tasseling early and the fact that you are in GA. When did you plant this corn? In your neighborhood, Feb or Mar is good corn planting time, not past April. If you planted it late and by the time it was well grown, it was already hot and humid, that may have encouraged the early tasselling and it may have created gummy, sticky pollen grains that don't travel as well. I don't know about corn, but I know tomatoes have trouble setting fruit when it is very hot and humid, because of the sticky pollen effect.

You can probably plant corn again in August to grow through the fall and it will do better. Deep south gardeners have to get used to a totally different planting schedule than the rest of us.

https://www.thevegetablegarden.info/resources/planting-schedules/zones-9-10-planting-schedule

johnny123
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Composted cow manure is no as rich in nitrogen as some think.
Chicken manure is a different story.
Corn can use it up quick along with other nutrients.
Farms also have to spend alot of money on Anhydrous Ammonia, Urea and or Ammonium nitrate to supply nitrogen to their corn.

When you are talking some of these at 80-0-0, 40-0-0 and even 30-0-0 the little bit of nitrogen from composted manure is just an appetizer for corn.

Like I said before, go find a local corn grower and have a talk about starter fertilizer, side dress and top dress fertilizers for good corn yeilds.

pickupguy07
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rainbowgardener wrote: Deep south gardeners have to get used to a totally different planting schedule than the rest of us.

https://www.thevegetablegarden.info/resources/planting-schedules/zones-9-10-planting-schedule
Yeah.. I am finding that hot south gardening is pretty tricky.
I really have NO clue how to adjust for my area.

Now that you bring it up,.. I planted the corn on 4/27. Since this is my first garden I noted and dated when I planted various plants... so I would have SOME idea when they should be mature.. and then post when it was actually matured (all as a learning experience; and for future reference) SO in this case it has went from planted to picked in less than two months.. ?? huumm

So you could very well be on to something there. We went from winter to summer here this year (spring lasted about a week)
SO it's possible you're on the right track

This corn will all be gone by the time mid-august rolls around... so I'll probably till it up and try again then. What I got is delicious.. just not much of it (size wise) Most all the stalks produced one or two ears.

I GOING to have to get get some advice on when I can plant what in my area.. Hope I can get some good input here. Surely some folks live near by, and could steer me in the right direction.
I'm all "Ears"... (pun intended)

I'm also going to need to get some advice on when to start seeds to grow fall crops so the get them planted intio the garden at the right time (stuff like broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, etc)

TWC015
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This was my first year growing corn. I got a good harvest, but I did stunt my plants a little in the beginning. They did not have enough nitrogen. This caused my plants to only be about 6 feet tall at maturity instead of 8 or 9 that is normal for my variety.

Most of my plants I don't add any extra fertilizer and they do fine. However, I found that corn definitely needs lots of nitrogen to do well. My plants were about a foot tall and a little light, so I bought some ammonium nitrate to use on them and within a week, they turned dark green and grew much taller. I don't add anything with phosphorus or potassium since my soil is already high in those. Another problem may be water stress. The last row of my corn was on a slight slope and these either did not make an ear or they made a tiny ear that was not good for eating.

I planted my seeds in late February since it was already warm then. It took about 2 weeks for the seeds to come up. I try to get everything out as early as possible.

I don't have to add anything to other warm season crops such as squash and tomatoes. These do fine without any other fertilizer. They don't use as much nitrogen. I had a few squash plants close to the corn and the ammonium nitrate burned a few squash leaves on a plant.

You still have about a month before starting seeds of most fall crops in the south, except for the 90 to 100 day crops like Brussels Sprouts and some cauliflowers. These should be started around July 1. The other Brassicas can wait until around August 1 along with most other cool season crops, except lettuce. I don't grow much lettuce, but it should probably wait until September since August is still too hot for it. Most of the fall crops are biennials so the heat won't harm them since they are not maturing in it. Lettuce is an exception since it is an annual and heat affects it at nearly any stage. I still have Brussels Sprouts going strong in the heat here. Even though it will still be hot in August, don't wait too long to start them or you will run out of time in the fall. The plants will live through the winter, but they won't do much growing after Thanksgiving and they will flower next March.

pickupguy07
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TWC015 wrote: Another problem may be water stress. The last row of my corn was on a slight slope and these either did not make an ear or they made a tiny ear that was not good for eating.

I planted my seeds in late February since it was already warm then. It took about 2 weeks for the seeds to come up. I try to get everything out as early as possible.

You still have about a month before starting seeds of most fall crops in the south, except for the 90 to 100 day crops like Brussels Sprouts and some cauliflowers. These should be started around July 1.
You may also have a good thought about the corn being on a slope. The last row I have is where the garden spots starts to slope off just a little.. SO many it ran off faster there before it could be absorbed in like the rest of the garden. I'll plant my corn somewhere different next season.
Also
This is a new garden spot.. so that delayed us getting everything out this year. Over winter it rained and rained, and no doubt the soil had to dry out before tilling, and adding the manure. SO all this lead to a late start to begin with. Heck we still had a couple pretty heavy frost here in NE GA in mid-march.
finally
Yeah, I am planning on planting broccoli, cauliflower, and brussell sprouts this fall. My brussel sprouts I though were done because of the heat,.. but I noticed that they slowly seem to keep growing. The larger ones at the bottom are starting to get the size of a small thumb. I suspect they need more time yet. (if it doesn't get too hot) They were planted around mid-april So 110 days won't be until early August.

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TheWaterbug
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Was the manure well rotted? Or fresh?

pickupguy07
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it was stable manure.. so mixed with straw
it was straight out of the stable, but was pretty well seasoned. (nothing fresh or runny about it.)

TWC015
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I took a chance this year with the corn planted so early, but we didn't have any more frosts, although it was close a few times.

I planted Brussels Sprouts, broccoli, and cauliflower in mid-February. The cauliflower did great, but it was still too warm for broccoli. I started these from seed indoors in January.

pickupguy07
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I got one VERY large head off of each of my brocolli plants then they started to bolt...
I had one brocolli that seemed to be 'behind' all the others, so I figured it would produce nothing.
It keeps getting dryer and hotter... and few weeks back I got the typiccla large head,.. now I keep getting flowerettes one after another..
Funny how when it's so hot and dry (and it should of bolted long ago) it keeps making more and more.

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applestar
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I have nothing to contribute as I'm still learning to grow corn. But I just wanted to say the brainstorming session going on is very helpful in analyzing my own garden. :wink: Thanks!

Well I did have one thought. Mid-July is about the latest you can sow corn around here according to NJ's ag ext service at Rutgars U. I found the info a couple of years ago while trying to figure out why short maturing corn I planted in late July only grew knee high then tasseled and produced tiny short corn. At first I thought mine was due to nutrition, etc. But a farm down the road planted corn about a week before I did and their presumably optimally cultivated corn only grew maybe thigh to waist high.

Now mid-July is when you can expect the earliest tomatoes without going above and beyond around here. So temperature wise, that might give you an idea. We normally hit the 90's+/70's+ temps and dry weather around then and I think we start seeing posts about first tomato harvests in mid-late April from your area.



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