I am planning to grow leeks this year. I know that I need to start them inside about 10-12 weeks before planting out. So when do you plant them out? Should it still be cool with possible light frost?
I would be pleased to have some real advice on this lovely, yummy treats.
gardenvt -
is vt = vermont?
leeks are slow growers. I do them every year simply because altho I can get them in the market, the $/lb sales number makes them about $2 per stalk. a little outside my comfort zone.
I can set them out here in early May, a light frost won't harm them. so I'll be starting seeds in 6-pack plastic trays next week. I do two seeds per cell; when they are about 3-4 inches high I snip off the weakling so I have one leek per cell.
the trough thing was mentioned - the purpose is to plant them deep, sift in soil as they grow to blanch the lower part of the stems. I sift in a sterile soil less mix - simply because weeds are an issue. I set them in the trough about 3" apart.
now, realize that in a non-forever-summer climate, you won't get the 2 inch diameter stalks. regardless you can get a really good crop of them. and you can leave them in the ground past the light to middling frosts - you'll want to harvest them before the ground freezes solid.
here's my collection post frost ; pre hard ground freeze
[/img]gardenvt -
is vt = vermont?
leeks are slow growers. I do them every year simply because altho I can get them in the market, the $/lb sales number makes them about $2 per stalk. a little outside my comfort zone.
I can set them out here in early May, a light frost won't harm them. so I'll be starting seeds in 6-pack plastic trays next week. I do two seeds per cell; when they are about 3-4 inches high I snip off the weakling so I have one leek per cell.
the trough thing was mentioned - the purpose is to plant them deep, sift in soil as they grow to blanch the lower part of the stems. I sift in a sterile soilless mix - simply because weeds are an issue. I set them in the trough about 3" apart.
now, realize that in a non-forever-summer climate, you won't get the 2 inch diameter stalks. regardless you can get a really good crop of them. and you can leave them in the ground past the light to middling frosts - you'll want to harvest them before the ground freezes solid.
here's my collection post frost ; pre hard ground freeze
(((well, I tried. obviously not mastered the curious techniques need to post an image here.)))
is vt = vermont?
leeks are slow growers. I do them every year simply because altho I can get them in the market, the $/lb sales number makes them about $2 per stalk. a little outside my comfort zone.
I can set them out here in early May, a light frost won't harm them. so I'll be starting seeds in 6-pack plastic trays next week. I do two seeds per cell; when they are about 3-4 inches high I snip off the weakling so I have one leek per cell.
the trough thing was mentioned - the purpose is to plant them deep, sift in soil as they grow to blanch the lower part of the stems. I sift in a sterile soil less mix - simply because weeds are an issue. I set them in the trough about 3" apart.
now, realize that in a non-forever-summer climate, you won't get the 2 inch diameter stalks. regardless you can get a really good crop of them. and you can leave them in the ground past the light to middling frosts - you'll want to harvest them before the ground freezes solid.
here's my collection post frost ; pre hard ground freeze
[/img]gardenvt -
is vt = vermont?
leeks are slow growers. I do them every year simply because altho I can get them in the market, the $/lb sales number makes them about $2 per stalk. a little outside my comfort zone.
I can set them out here in early May, a light frost won't harm them. so I'll be starting seeds in 6-pack plastic trays next week. I do two seeds per cell; when they are about 3-4 inches high I snip off the weakling so I have one leek per cell.
the trough thing was mentioned - the purpose is to plant them deep, sift in soil as they grow to blanch the lower part of the stems. I sift in a sterile soilless mix - simply because weeds are an issue. I set them in the trough about 3" apart.
now, realize that in a non-forever-summer climate, you won't get the 2 inch diameter stalks. regardless you can get a really good crop of them. and you can leave them in the ground past the light to middling frosts - you'll want to harvest them before the ground freezes solid.
here's my collection post frost ; pre hard ground freeze
(((well, I tried. obviously not mastered the curious techniques need to post an image here.)))
For a long time, I thought that leeks were not a good choice for my garden. They seemed to be a vegetable appropriate for Great Britain and, while not 180° from a UK climate, this environment is different enuf so as to have discouraged me with that kind of thinking.
After growing sweet onions from seed for several years, I decided to give leeks a chance. They work just fine
! You have gotten good advice so far and about all I can add is that they can be started just as you would sweet onions.
I have never tried the trench-growing approach. One reason is that dirt and leeks don't seem to go together very well. Here is what I mean:
The 1st season that I grew leeks, I harvested them much as I would green onions -- pulling them up as needed and shaking the dirt off the roots. Do NOT do this while standing over a bed of leeks!!!
Leek leaves are more like those of lilies than our garden onions. They are flat -- anything that falls on the leaves in the way of dirt (or dry fertilizer
) will end up stuck in the base of the leaves. Leeks usefulness in the kitchen, however, is JUST LIKE green onions. You want all of the white part and much of the green. If they are full of dirt! You will have to separate the leaves and wash each one individually.
I use fish emulsion to fertilize plant starts. Onions (especially sweet and storage onions) get a fair amount of dry, organic fertilizer. With the leeks, I continue with the fish emulsion diluted in a sprinkler can of water, thru most of their growing season.
Steve
After growing sweet onions from seed for several years, I decided to give leeks a chance. They work just fine
! You have gotten good advice so far and about all I can add is that they can be started just as you would sweet onions.I have never tried the trench-growing approach. One reason is that dirt and leeks don't seem to go together very well. Here is what I mean:
The 1st season that I grew leeks, I harvested them much as I would green onions -- pulling them up as needed and shaking the dirt off the roots. Do NOT do this while standing over a bed of leeks!!!
Leek leaves are more like those of lilies than our garden onions. They are flat -- anything that falls on the leaves in the way of dirt (or dry fertilizer
) will end up stuck in the base of the leaves. Leeks usefulness in the kitchen, however, is JUST LIKE green onions. You want all of the white part and much of the green. If they are full of dirt! You will have to separate the leaves and wash each one individually.I use fish emulsion to fertilize plant starts. Onions (especially sweet and storage onions) get a fair amount of dry, organic fertilizer. With the leeks, I continue with the fish emulsion diluted in a sprinkler can of water, thru most of their growing season.
Steve
Thanks everyone for all of your helpful tips.
Our average last frost date (Vermont - Zone 4) is May 15. We don't usually get a frost until the end of October though Mother Nature occasionally reminds us which state we live.
So, it seems I should start seeds the beginning of Feb and plant out early May. Same for shallots and onions? The onion family is new to our garden. I want to start all of them from seed because I read that they will be healthier and less likely to develope disease or virus tas can heppen with "sets."
I have two varieties of leeks - Giant Musselburgh and Primor which is a baby French leek. I'm thinking the Musselburgh will need more space than Primor as it can grow 3" or more thick. Also, Musselburgh is said to be winter hardy so I could leave those in longer. I am considering closer spacing (3") and harvesting some of the leeks early for the grill.
I have heard that if you dibble a hole about 6 inches deep when planting the transplants, you don't have to fill in with dirt as often if at all. Has anyone tried this method?
I appreciate any and all comments/tips.
Our average last frost date (Vermont - Zone 4) is May 15. We don't usually get a frost until the end of October though Mother Nature occasionally reminds us which state we live.
So, it seems I should start seeds the beginning of Feb and plant out early May. Same for shallots and onions? The onion family is new to our garden. I want to start all of them from seed because I read that they will be healthier and less likely to develope disease or virus tas can heppen with "sets."
I have two varieties of leeks - Giant Musselburgh and Primor which is a baby French leek. I'm thinking the Musselburgh will need more space than Primor as it can grow 3" or more thick. Also, Musselburgh is said to be winter hardy so I could leave those in longer. I am considering closer spacing (3") and harvesting some of the leeks early for the grill.
I have heard that if you dibble a hole about 6 inches deep when planting the transplants, you don't have to fill in with dirt as often if at all. Has anyone tried this method?
I appreciate any and all comments/tips.
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Tonythegardener
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:46 am
- Location: Wolverhampton UK
There are several different ways I have seen leeks being grown in the UK. The exhibition growers have secret soil mixes that they swear by but I get fairly good leeks from normal fertile garden soil. Some of the old growers grow their leeks in old gutter downpipes or upturned drainage pipes about two feet high. They put well sieved compost into the pipes and then water in the leeks. As the leeks grow they add more compost. They get leeks as thick as your arm and up to 31/2 feet tall - but I have never achieved this.
When planting normally I just dibble a hole with a plant dibber, put the leek in the hole and then pour water in. The water washes soil into the hole and covers the leek's roots. I usually put some comfrey or worm tea in the water to add a little nutrient.
The third way that I have seen leeks planted is in a trench and then they are earthed up and a board is put along both sides of the leek row to keep the soil in place. This means that more of the stem is kept from the sun and stays white.
I know what you mean about soil and leeks digitS. Sometimes soil gets into the leaves. However I cut off the leaves because I only eat the blanched (white part) stem. You do have to be careful though.
They are the hardiest of vegetables. I still have some Musselburgh growing and the temperatures in the UK have recently been as low as -16C.
I will be sowing leeks in March for cropping from Christmas into the new year. I prick out into individual pots when they are big enough to handle. The seedlings will stand a little frost so I will be planting out as soon as they are about 6 inches tall.
When planting normally I just dibble a hole with a plant dibber, put the leek in the hole and then pour water in. The water washes soil into the hole and covers the leek's roots. I usually put some comfrey or worm tea in the water to add a little nutrient.
The third way that I have seen leeks planted is in a trench and then they are earthed up and a board is put along both sides of the leek row to keep the soil in place. This means that more of the stem is kept from the sun and stays white.
I know what you mean about soil and leeks digitS. Sometimes soil gets into the leaves. However I cut off the leaves because I only eat the blanched (white part) stem. You do have to be careful though.
They are the hardiest of vegetables. I still have some Musselburgh growing and the temperatures in the UK have recently been as low as -16C.
I will be sowing leeks in March for cropping from Christmas into the new year. I prick out into individual pots when they are big enough to handle. The seedlings will stand a little frost so I will be planting out as soon as they are about 6 inches tall.
A few more questions:
What do you start your leeks in (pots, trays, plug flats)
If you start them in 6 packs, do you move them up?
When do you move them into larger plugs flats and what size do you use?
I have a variety of plug trays from 50 - 200 cells and wondered if it made sense to start them in the smaller plug flats (128-200) and then move them into deeper plug flats when they are large enough. I have some 50 cell transplant trays that I also use for tomatoes that are about 5 inches deep. Does it makes sense to move them into the deepest tray and start the blanching early?
I know, so many questions. I appreciate all of your responses, tips and tricks.
What do you start your leeks in (pots, trays, plug flats)
If you start them in 6 packs, do you move them up?
When do you move them into larger plugs flats and what size do you use?
I have a variety of plug trays from 50 - 200 cells and wondered if it made sense to start them in the smaller plug flats (128-200) and then move them into deeper plug flats when they are large enough. I have some 50 cell transplant trays that I also use for tomatoes that are about 5 inches deep. Does it makes sense to move them into the deepest tray and start the blanching early?
I know, so many questions. I appreciate all of your responses, tips and tricks.
Hi GardenVT,
I start leeks and onions either in 6-packs or just the bottoms of milk jugs - whatever you have. Sow them moderately thickly, and they will sprout like grass. Give them plenty of light so they don't get leggy. If the weather is lousy, and you can't plant them out and they are getting too tall - give them a hair cut. Then when it's time to transplant, I take a clump and carefully separate each seedling as I go along. Sometimes dipping them in a bucket of water aids in disentangling the roots. You will get very close to 100% transplant success with only modest care - so space them out.
Here's how I did this last time in Oregon:
https://squashpractice.wordpress.com/2010/04/22/vichyssoise-the-begining/
Good Planting!
Gary
I start leeks and onions either in 6-packs or just the bottoms of milk jugs - whatever you have. Sow them moderately thickly, and they will sprout like grass. Give them plenty of light so they don't get leggy. If the weather is lousy, and you can't plant them out and they are getting too tall - give them a hair cut. Then when it's time to transplant, I take a clump and carefully separate each seedling as I go along. Sometimes dipping them in a bucket of water aids in disentangling the roots. You will get very close to 100% transplant success with only modest care - so space them out.
Here's how I did this last time in Oregon:
https://squashpractice.wordpress.com/2010/04/22/vichyssoise-the-begining/
Good Planting!
Gary
I planted the leeks, onions and shallots Friday afternoon and by Monday, the onions and shallots had some sprouts. Today most of them are up and the leeks are sprouting pretty well.
I used 128 plug flats for the shallots and onions. The leeks were started in 4x6 fiber pots. I will move the leeks up to deeper cells when they are large enough to handle.
I used 128 plug flats for the shallots and onions. The leeks were started in 4x6 fiber pots. I will move the leeks up to deeper cells when they are large enough to handle.
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ElizabethH.
- Full Member
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Jan 15, 2011 8:07 pm
- Location: Mountains of NC
