What can I add to my soil to improve it by next spring?
Alas, I just started composting so it won't be ready by next spring. I'll be planting around april/may. I was going to add the oldest of the horse manure in the field, which is pretty decayed. I also planned to add some decaying leaves from the woods. Anything else I should add? I can pretty much get as much of this stuff as I need. Also should I put it as a layer on top, or mix it in? Thanks!
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Sounds like you're on the right track. It's all about adding quality organic matter, and you've picked some good sources with the leaves and horse manure.Carmen wrote:Alas, I just started composting so it won't be ready by next spring. I'll be planting around april/may. I was going to add the oldest of the horse manure in the field, which is pretty decayed. I also planned to add some decaying leaves from the woods. Anything else I should add? I can pretty much get as much of this stuff as I need. Also should I put it as a layer on top, or mix it in? Thanks!
As for layering on top or mixing in, I would try to do both. I would mix in the material that is well decayed (humus), and I would put the "fresher" materials on top (or add those to the compost pile).
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[quote="Canadian Farmer Guy"]Do leaves taken out of the woods work well?
We have forty acres of woods and enough dead leaves to sink a ship.
Sounds to me like you have a gold mine in composting material. I really don't think it matters where the leaves come from but some leaves break down faster than others. Magnolia leaves are some of the toughest to compost and it is best to run over them with a mower to cut them up in tiny bits before adding them to a pile. Even then, then have a distinct aroma unlike most other leaves I've used.
We have forty acres of woods and enough dead leaves to sink a ship.
Sounds to me like you have a gold mine in composting material. I really don't think it matters where the leaves come from but some leaves break down faster than others. Magnolia leaves are some of the toughest to compost and it is best to run over them with a mower to cut them up in tiny bits before adding them to a pile. Even then, then have a distinct aroma unlike most other leaves I've used.
You bet! ... I would be out there in those woods with a wheelbarrow and rake, as often as possible!Canadian Farmer Guy wrote:Do leaves taken out of the woods work well?
We have forty acres of woods and enough dead leaves to sink a ship.
CFG
If all that "brown humus" starts to make your garden soil acidic (low pH), just supplement with some additional Lime.
- rainbowgardener
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The leaves are great, especially the well broken down leaf mould. But it is a bit acidic and high carbon. That is the point of the manure, to balance that ot with some nitrogen. It's a great combination together. I would just put it on top of the soil now, keep your soil covered up through the winter, and then turn it under or mix it in in the spring.
Incidentally, if you started composting now and you keep it up all through the winter and early spring, you will have some compost for spring planting.
Incidentally, if you started composting now and you keep it up all through the winter and early spring, you will have some compost for spring planting.
I asked a similar question specifically for my tomato beds on a different forum. I have an abundance of leaves and other organic materials but I want to experiment with some stuff I can buy real cheap at a farm and ranch supply. All of it is very expensive at garden supply stores.
My list of common products from the farm and ranch store in 50 lb. bags is the following.
Alfalfa Pellets
Dried Molasses
Cotton Seed Meal
Bone Meal
All of these products added to some additional topsoil should increase the earth worm and bacteria levels and activity in the soil and add needed minerals like calcium and magnesium. I plan on adding some to a few beds, but not all beds. I will be able to compare the difference between the beds during the growing season.
I don't recommend adding any of the stuff I listed. I will simply try it and see what happens. I've received a few private messages from folks who claim to use one or more of the products regularly with good results. They go on to say they don't feel comfortable telling folks what they use on the forum because they will be criticized by folks who only use natural organic compost from their garden, home, and property.
I need to be criticized a few times before I feel I've had a successful day.
Ted
My list of common products from the farm and ranch store in 50 lb. bags is the following.
Alfalfa Pellets
Dried Molasses
Cotton Seed Meal
Bone Meal
All of these products added to some additional topsoil should increase the earth worm and bacteria levels and activity in the soil and add needed minerals like calcium and magnesium. I plan on adding some to a few beds, but not all beds. I will be able to compare the difference between the beds during the growing season.
I don't recommend adding any of the stuff I listed. I will simply try it and see what happens. I've received a few private messages from folks who claim to use one or more of the products regularly with good results. They go on to say they don't feel comfortable telling folks what they use on the forum because they will be criticized by folks who only use natural organic compost from their garden, home, and property.
I need to be criticized a few times before I feel I've had a successful day.
Ted
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I will comment on this.They go on to say they don't feel comfortable telling folks what they use on the forum because they will be criticized by folks who only use natural organic compost from their garden, home, and property.
I need to be criticized a few times before I feel I've had a successful day.
We have a Vegetable Gardening forum and a Organic Gardening forum. Maybe under Organic Gardening, there should be a subcategory Organic Vegetable Gardening This way organic questions would be posted in one and more traditional post in the other. Jal_ut has kind of hinted on this in the past. Probably others. This way not so much mudslinging will take place.
Eric
Eric,
We don't have as many organic police on this forum as other forums. My comments really were about a different forum. I don't think those folks who commented would feel as threatened on this forum. Even those with strong opinions about organic gardening on this forum normally make their points in a kind and gentle manner.
Ted
We don't have as many organic police on this forum as other forums. My comments really were about a different forum. I don't think those folks who commented would feel as threatened on this forum. Even those with strong opinions about organic gardening on this forum normally make their points in a kind and gentle manner.
Ted
Last edited by tedln on Mon Oct 11, 2010 5:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Carmen,Carmen wrote:Alas, I just started composting so it won't be ready by next spring. I'll be planting around april/may. I was going to add the oldest of the horse manure in the field, which is pretty decayed. I also planned to add some decaying leaves from the woods. Anything else I should add? I can pretty much get as much of this stuff as I need. Also should I put it as a layer on top, or mix it in? Thanks!
It gets pretty hot, pretty early in South Carolina. I would consider planting my garden as close to the last average frost date as possible. That should be in late March or early April. If you wait until May to plant, many of your plants will not have enough time to bloom and set fruit before the summer heat begins. Just a thought.
Ted
- engineeredgarden
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EG,engineeredgarden wrote:Ted - concerning your list of ingredients.....I add the dry molasses and alfalfa meal to the compost piles during winter, and along with some cheap dry dog food - things really get cooking! I'll not comment on the organic thing - sometimes things are best left alone.
EG
I thought about that, but decided to mix it and add it to my beds this fall. I want some of the minerals and nutrients to leach into the subsoil through the winter. It will compost to a lesser degree sitting in my beds. I expect fungus to attack the alfalfa, molasses, and cotton seed meal quickly. The bone meal will release calcium and low amounts of nitrogen which will be absorbed by the subsoil. Since my added soil will only be three or four inches deep most of my spring plants will actually root in the eight inches of subsoil.
While the dry dog food has some good ingredients, it is also very high in salt. That is strictly to make it taste good to the dogs. The more they eat, the more the dog food companies sell.
The dog food also attracts rats and mice quite often. Rats and mice in the compost pile during the winter means snakes around the compost pile in the spring.
Ted