confused about phi
OK, I am having to spray for early blight for my tomatoes and scab on my squash. not something I wanted to do, but I was about to lose 30 tomato plants so I caved. the blight was moving really fast and fierce. so the packaging talks about phi and some phi's are 4 days some 7 some 0... and I read it but it didn't make sense to me about what exactly it all meant. can someone explain it to me please? Thank you!
the PHI is the preharvest interval.
It means that you should not apply the product within a certain amount of days of harvesting.
I got some ferti-lome brand chlorothalonil and it has this for each crop listed. If you have this and you are using it on tomatoes, then you do not have to worry because the tomato PHI is 0 days.
It means that you should not apply the product within a certain amount of days of harvesting.
I got some ferti-lome brand chlorothalonil and it has this for each crop listed. If you have this and you are using it on tomatoes, then you do not have to worry because the tomato PHI is 0 days.
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I don't know what else I'm supposed to do!? I don't like using it, I mean I do everything organic, but I was getting ready to lose 30 tomato plants covered in huge tomatoes. It was either fool around with natural methods that probably won't work with a slight chance that they would, or do something about it. I couldn't imagine losing all 30 plants. I would be devastated.
- stella1751
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Sheeshshe, I had early blight on my tomatoes, pretty much unheard of in Wyoming. (I had to look it up; I hadn't a clue what was going on.) However, we had a wet, cold June, and I probably over-watered in July.
I pruned them all, especially removing the foliage up to a height of about a foot, and they are seriously on the mend now. Mine needed better air circulation. It might work for yours. If you have a few you could experiment with, you might give it a try. I saw decided improvement within 48 hours.
I pruned them all, especially removing the foliage up to a height of about a foot, and they are seriously on the mend now. Mine needed better air circulation. It might work for yours. If you have a few you could experiment with, you might give it a try. I saw decided improvement within 48 hours.
- rainbowgardener
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So you tried the poison and it isn't working. Now are you ready to try something else?
To start with, if you haven't already, mulch thoroughly. Lay down newspapers or something as a top layer on top of what ever else you mulch with. It will keep soil from splashing up onto the leaves and spreading the disease. Early blight is early because it over-winters in the soil (as opposed to late blight which doesn't and has to move back north from frost free areas).
Things to try for control
baking soda solution (already mentioned to you)
milk solution (50-50 worked great for me last year when my tomatoes got late blight)
3% hydrogen peroxide sprayed directly from the bottle
foliar spray of ACT compost tea
Serenade is a commercial biofungicide
Maybe try a couple different choices on different plants and see what works best.
To start with, if you haven't already, mulch thoroughly. Lay down newspapers or something as a top layer on top of what ever else you mulch with. It will keep soil from splashing up onto the leaves and spreading the disease. Early blight is early because it over-winters in the soil (as opposed to late blight which doesn't and has to move back north from frost free areas).
Things to try for control
baking soda solution (already mentioned to you)
milk solution (50-50 worked great for me last year when my tomatoes got late blight)
3% hydrogen peroxide sprayed directly from the bottle
foliar spray of ACT compost tea
Serenade is a commercial biofungicide
Maybe try a couple different choices on different plants and see what works best.