Fall crop

[shady plot]

Hello all, newbie here with a question. I'm about to start some beans, brocoli and cauliflower for my fall crop. Last time I attempted to start seeds on my own it didn't go well. I had my light source to high I've since discovered after searching this forum.
Anyway, is there anything special I need to know to start my seeds? I'm using peat pellets for the broc, and caul. and for the beans I'm gonna start them in dixie cups.
Also I have daylight bulbs in my fixture(6400 kelvin). Would it be better to use the plant bulb which is a much cooler 3000 kelvin? I figure that the closest thing to daylight would be best.

Btw, I work in an electrical supply house so please excuse my lamp temp. jargon.

Thanks,
Craig

[lorax]

The 6400 K daylight-equivalent is fine, but what you need to consider is that many seeds (especially beans) need a dark cycle too, in order to sprout well. I'd go with a 12h on - 12h off rotation if I were you. I'd also maybe consider the cooler-running flourescent lamps if your instruments will take them, because the heat from incandescents, especially the higher K ones, can dry out a peat pot in a matter of about 30 minutes, which brings me to...

The other thing you might want to think about is using a zip-baggie type unit overtop of your peat pellets to keep the moisture in - peaties are notorious for drying out really quickly, which will set your seeds back.

Hope this helps

(and please excuse my lamp jargon as well, I'm a lighting technician....

[applestar]

We've been talking about planting fall crops here: https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27513

You might find some relevant info. Check out the pre-sprouting technique explained in the thread. I did that with broccoli seeds, then planted the sprouted seeds in the garden. I used a pop-up shade (looks kind of like the ones sold for picnics) for extra protection from too much sun/heat and from bugs. Keep moist (water morning and evening, if necessary) since these are small seeds and can't be planted deeper than 1/2 in.

Beans seeds can be directly planted right now and they'll pop right up. About 1-1/2" deep, then water really well. Soaking the beans overnight then planting in the morning might help speed it up by a few days but you mustn't let them dry out after that.

[shady plot]

The 6400 K daylight-equivalent is fine, but what you need to consider is that many seeds (especially beans) need a dark cycle too, in order to sprout well. I'd go with a 12h on - 12h off rotation if I were you. I'd also maybe consider the cooler-running flourescent lamps if your instruments will take them, because the heat from incandescents, especially the higher K ones, can dry out a peat pot in a matter of about 30 minutes, which brings me to...

The other thing you might want to think about is using a zip-baggie type unit overtop of your peat pellets to keep the moisture in - peaties are notorious for drying out really quickly, which will set your seeds back.

Hope this helps

(and please excuse my lamp jargon as well, I'm a lighting technician....

I am using flourescents. I didn't know that incandescent lamps had a kelvin designation... only flourescents and LEDs. Anyways I have a timer, my fixture, and some peat pellets....Lets see what happens.

[lorax]

They do for theatre - the kelvin rating speaks to the colour temperature of the light.

[applestar]

Shady Plot, maybe I should have said beans will DO BETTER planted directly in the ground. Also, if you'll look at the discussion on the other thread, you'll see it's (amazingly) getting around crunch time for broccoli and cauliflower. Days to maturity refers to days from direct seeding or TRANSPLANTING.

When I say "directly in the ground" that includes your large container gardens as well, if that's what you are doing.

It's good to get your indoor seed starting set up in place and ready for the early spring though. So also try the "Search the Forum" link using keywords like "seed starting set up" and "seedlings".

[rainbowgardener]

Agree with AS that there's not a lot of advantage to starting things indoors at this point. I start tons of seedlings indoors in late winter, getting ready for spring, because it's too cold for them outside. Not true now.

Indoors does give you a little more control over moisture etc. But in return for that you sacrifice sunshine (no way indoors you can provide nearly as much light as they get outdoors), natural soil, etc. And they have to go through hardening off, transplant shock etc. I will be starting some fall crop soon and will plant everything directly in the ground.

I hate peat pots/pellets. They either hold too much water and mold and rot the roots out or they dry out and suck all the moisture away from the plant. Dixie cups (with holes for drainage) or plastic works a lot better.

[garden5]

The beans you could direct sow, but I think it may be a bit late to start broccoli and cauliflower from seed to plant for a fall crop in PA. Well, you might be able to get away with it if the winter starts out mild, but you'll be cutting it close. Eh, give it a go, you'll never know unless you try .

Oh, and I'm in agreements with the previous posts on the necessary lighting equipment.

[shady plot]

They do for theatre - the kelvin rating speaks to the colour temperature of the light.

I learned something new today, thanks. I don't know much about stage lighting. That's a very different animal than dwelling or workspace lighting.

[shady plot]

I'll just have to see what it does. I'll plant the everything in the garden and see what happens. I had planted some brocoli and cauliflower in spring, but they got in late and the heat around here has pretty much fried them.
But like what was said earlier, at least I'll have my starting area all set up for spring.