Watering Plants

[stella1751]

In the Tomato forum, TZ -OH6 wrote the following regarding tomatoes:

The only part of a root that absorbs water and nutrients is the first few inches that have root hairs on them, so you can see how over time the microspaces in the soil would be filled up with roots that aren doing much except acting as pipes.

I found this fascinating. Within this sentence lies, I believe, the answer to my problem with tomatoes cracking. It's my practice to give my tomatoes a long, long soaking roughly every three to six days, depending upon the weather. Based upon the foregoing, however, it would appear to make more sense to water them each morning for 15 to 30 minutes. Can anyone weigh in on this?

The reason I moved TZ-OH6's response to this forum, besides a desire not to horn in on Tedlin's thread, was I'd like to learn about the water/nutrient absorption habits of other plants, too. I've been deep watering everything on a schedule similar to the tomatoes: pumpkins, cucumbers, beans, watermelon, peppers. Does anyone have any insights to offer regarding these plants? Are they the same as tomatoes, or do any of these draw deep with a taproot?

[TZ -OH6]

If you are talking about containers, yes, they definitely get filled up with roots and don't hold water very well later on in the season and need to be watered more frequently. In dirt, the roots usually send some leeders down deep looking for water so the deep watering is good, but that doesn't work in parts of my garden where there is a clay layer about a shovel blade/foot down to stop roots. It waters fasters and dries faster because of it (snd would probably act the same). I have been deep digging those areas to 2-3 ft to solve the problem. It really helps to know what your soil profile is like in addition to knowing what the top soil is made of.

This is a good reference for root growth of all kinds of vegetables.


https://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglibrary/010137veg.roots/010137toc.html

[stella1751]

Thanks, TZ -OH6. This is exactly what I needed. I just read the section on pumpkins, and I can see I have been seriously underwatering mine, concentrating the moisture at the base of the plant, when in truth there are laterals starving for water one to two feet away from the plant. I need to figure out a system for watering the entire bed without getting the pumpkin's leaves wet

Winds of up to 50 MPH today, with temps above 90, worried me. They can dry out the lushest foliage in less than an hour. The pumpkin's leaves broke in several places, and it looked downright parched, despite a liberal serving of compost tea last night. I've got the hose on it right now. I may leave it on all night.

Now, to read about cucumbers! Thanks again.

[applestar]

Ooh, those reports are addictive, Stella! Don't stay up too late reading them all!

[DoubleDogFarm]

Here is a little tidbit about watering trees.

For every inch of caliper of trunk, you should mulch and water 1ft away from the trunk. 3" caliper = 3ft out or 6ft diameter.

This probably could be applied to vegetable plants also. I just mulch and water the whole bed.

[FieldofFlowers]

We have the wind problem here in the Twin Cities. Okay maybe not 50mph, but we've had a lot of wind. I wish I knew what to do to prevent coming home from work to nearly dead, wilted plants in my containers. I mean hey, I soak them, no I flood them and yet they still are bone dry about 6 hrs later.

I'd water them three times a day, maybe even have to water four times, but I can't devote that much time to watering. I have to work and there is no one else interested in babysitting my plants that time.

[applestar]

I put most of my containers directly on the ground. I realize that's not an option for many if not most people who container garden because the whole reason is that they don't have ground to plant in.

But a little bit of moisture stays in the container-ground buffer zone and gives me that little bit of insurance. This works as long as I'm not in drought situation where the ground is completely parched.

When I water, I water the area surrounding the container as well as the soil inside the container.

Another thing I noticed is that when I allow the vegetation to grow all around the container, and only trim when the grass gets tall enough to shade the plants, the pot dries out less. After, in my misplaced enthusiasm, I mow down the grass/weeds, exposing the containers to the sun, the soil dries out faster and the plants will actually wilt a bit (from the roots not being used to the extra temp, I think)

That seems to mean that if you insulate the containers -- by putting inside larger clay pots, ceramic or wooden pot covers, etc. your containers will dry out less.

[stella1751]

The 50 MPH winds come only once a week. Whenever a new weather system passes, it passes resentfully. If the system stalls, the wind stalls. When I was living in Cheyenne, the wind would blow for days without pause. Right now, it's only breezy outside with occasional half-hearted gusts.

The problem with my pumpkins is that I don't know how or if I should mulch them. I had mulched them in leaves, but I allowed most of them to blow away after someone told Applestar that the tendrils like to form new roots wherever they rest on the ground. Additionally, I keep thinking that eventually the pumpkin leaves will, like those of my squash last year, serve as a sun and wind barrier for the soil. They're growing like mad, and I still do think the leaves themselves will serve as mulch.

I left the hose on them last night, and now there's a big dark patch all around them. Regular weather, mid-80's, is expected for today and tomorrow, but then we slip back into the 90's. If they can expand enough in two days, they should be able to provide their own shade for the soil.

I see, BTW, I misunderstood TZ -OH6's post about tomatoes and drink. He meant either the end (or the beginning) of each particular root, not the beginning of the plant's root system, as I thought before I did my reading. I wonder whether I will just plain always have cracking on my tomatoes, growing them in a country where rain is scarce and wind and sun are plentiful

Ergo my fascination with watering. As far as vegetation goes, Wyomingites are Mother Nature. I need to determine what each plant needs, and sometimes I get it wrong

[DoubleDogFarm]

11. Q. What causes a tomato to crack? Is there anything I can do to prevent it?


A. Cracking is a physiological disorder caused by soil moisture fluctuations. When the tomato reaches the mature green stage and the water supply to the plant is reduced or cut off, the tomato will begin to ripen. At this time a cellophane-like wrapper around the outer surface of the tomato becomes thicker and more rigid to protect the tomato during and after harvest. If the water supply is restored after ripening begins, the plant will resume translocation of nutrients and moisture into the fruit. This will cause the fruit to enlarge; which in turn splits the wrapper around the fruit and results in cracking. The single best control for cracking is a constant and regular water supply. Apply a layer of organic mulch to the base of the plant. This serves as a buffer and prevents soil moisture fluctuation. Water plants thoroughly every week. This is especially important when the fruits are maturing. Some varieties are resistant to cracking, but their skin is tougher.

[stella1751]

11. Q. What causes a tomato to crack? Is there anything I can do to prevent it?


A. Cracking is a physiological disorder caused by soil moisture fluctuations. When the tomato reaches the mature green stage and the water supply to the plant is reduced or cut off, the tomato will begin to ripen. At this time a cellophane-like wrapper around the outer surface of the tomato becomes thicker and more rigid to protect the tomato during and after harvest. If the water supply is restored after ripening begins, the plant will resume translocation of nutrients and moisture into the fruit. This will cause the fruit to enlarge; which in turn splits the wrapper around the fruit and results in cracking. The single best control for cracking is a constant and regular water supply. Apply a layer of organic mulch to the base of the plant. This serves as a buffer and prevents soil moisture fluctuation. Water plants thoroughly every week. This is especially important when the fruits are maturing. Some varieties are resistant to cracking, but their skin is tougher.

Yeah. Been there. Done that. My tomatoes are mulched as soon as I set them out, and they never go more than six days, even in rare rainy weather, without significant water. Most of the time, I water them every three days. I add water-retaining amendments to the soil, like perlite or vermiculite. I experiment with different varieties, rarely growing the same kind twice. I still get cracking. It's not water; it's not mulch; it's not the soil; it's not the variety.

It's Wyoming. Most likely, it's the wind, especially the hot ones that gust up to 60 MPH for a period of 24-48 hours. The leaves suck up a lot of moisture, just staying alive. Once the wind is gone, the plants concentrate on making repairs to all the damaged areas.

I do think I am going to experiment this year with short, daily watering. Right now, they are on the soaker hose after having had a drink of compost tea 36 hours ago. Once I'm certain I've restored the water depleted by yesterday's winds, I'll put them on a daily morning watering of 30 minutes.

This is the only thing I haven't tried: Daily watering. (It's kind of a pain when you only have one spigot.) I do have friends, though, who use timed daily drip irrigation, and they get cracking, too. Nevertheless, it's worth a try.

If they still crack, well, I'll just cut around it

In the meantime, I'll play with the plants that appreciate my efforts and have the grace to reciprocate. Next up, a study of the root system of beans.

[applestar]

There is ONE tomato variety in my garden -- a volunteer but I seem to get many of the same -- that will ALWAYS crack after watering or rain. NOBODY else is cracking but this one? Every single time. So I think variety is significant. I've learned to pick these nearly ripe and finish on the counter, especially if there is rain in the forecast. The thing is, it has a tough skin so the idea that thin skinned ones crack more frequently doesn't seem to apply in this case. It is, on the other hand, extra juicy. When in full, production, it makes great Tomato Juice.

[tomf]

Applestar it sounds like that tommato plant is all it is cracked up to be.

I have all my garden on a drip system with a timmer so every other day it gets a good watering, it worked for me last year as I got no cracks in my tommatos or what the kid used to call them "Tommy toes".

[stella1751]

Applestar it sounds like that tommato plant is all it is cracked up to be.

I have all my garden on a drip system with a timmer so every other day it gets a good watering, it worked for me last year as I got no cracks in my tommatos or what the kid used to call them "Tommy toes".

How long/much did you water them, tomf?

Applestar, you are right: Variety is important. The Husky Red Dwarf never cracked, nor did the Yellow Pears. I probably need to keep experimenting with varieties, too, which isn't a hardship

[garden5]

It's Wyoming. Most likely, it's the wind, especially the hot ones that gust up to 60 MPH for a period of 24-48 hours. The leaves suck up a lot of moisture, just staying alive.

Try setting up a wind-block by the plants. You could even use a clear sheet of plastic so as not to block the sunlight .

[stella1751]

Try setting up a wind-block by the plants. You could even use a clear sheet of plastic so as not to block the sunlight .

Funny you should suggest that, Garden5. I began keeping them moist daily because I seriously want to post a picture of my Deliciouses on DV's Tomato Varieties thread, and cracking will embarrass me. They are in one of my "raised" beds that hasn't yet been filled with soil, so they are sheltered all around up to the height of a foot.

For the first time in my life, I developed early blight. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why my stems were turning black. It's just not something we have up here, given our dry conditions.

Yesterday morning, I didn't water, and I dismantled the bed down to a height of 6", the best I can do given its construction. The temps went to 95, there was a light breeze, and this morning the early blight appears to be on the mend.

I went back to the daily watering today. I'll see what happens now that they have decent circulation to go with their water. I'm darned if I do and darned if I don't with these guys. Maybe the soaker hose has something to do with it, too, although I can't see what. This is the first time I've ever used one on tomatoes. I bet its wide spread makes things more humid.

Yeesh! I will post a picture on DV's thread. However, I will probably need to do some clever photography (Photoshop?) to make my tomatoes look as attractive as everyone else's.

[gixxerific]

I didn't read the whole thread but agree with Applestar's idea of watering the ground around even containers. I have a bunch of plants in containers. I have to move them every now and then for whatever reason. Every time I feel/hear the ripping of roots that have grown from the bottom of the containers into the soil they rest upon.

So water deeply and widely that is my motto. Though don't water for hours at a time that only makes for waste with the water shedding and not being absorbed into the ground. Take breaks in between watering to let the water filter down than start again.

I watch my neighbor behind me water his grass for hours every weekend (Sat and Sun), I'm talking an hour and a half or 2 at a time. What a waste of water he even has a sewer dump in his yard so you know the grade goes to that. What a waste.

Do it in the morning, best time ever, though early evening is alright as long as it has time to dry out before nightfall to prevent disease buildup.

[tomf]

Applestar it sounds like that tommato plant is all it is cracked up to be.

I have all my garden on a drip system with a timmer so every other day it gets a good watering, it worked for me last year as I got no cracks in my tommatos or what the kid used to call them "Tommy toes".

How long/much did you water them, tomf?

Applestar, you are right: Variety is important. The Husky Red Dwarf never cracked, nor did the Yellow Pears. I probably need to keep experimenting with varieties, too, which isn't a hardship

I put in two 2 gallon per hour drip plugs per plant and water the whole garden every other day for 1 to 2.5 hours. I am not sure if the drip plugs put out just what they say as unless Some parts do not need it I water a 75' by 75' garden all at once, I check by digging and seeing if the ground is wet.

[stella1751]

I put in two 2 gallon per hour drip plugs per plant and water the whole garden every other day for 1 to 2.5 hours. I am not sure if the drip plugs put out just what they say as unless Some parts do not need it I water a 75' by 75' garden all at once, I check by digging and seeing if the ground is wet.

Okay. That translates to 2 to 5 gallons per plant every other day. Yesterday, while filling a 5-gallon pail for compost tea, I averaged 1 gallon per minute. Leaving the hose at that level, I hooked it up to the soaker hose around 8 of my tomato plants, and I left it there for roughly 45 minutes. This means each plant received approximately 5.6 gallons, right?

Too much. If it leave it on for 32 minutes, each plant would receive 4 gallons every other day. Twenty-four minutes would make for 3 gallons every other day. I think, given the hot, dry conditions up here compared to what my uncle tells me you have in Oregon, I should do 30 minutes every other day.

That's less than I've been doing, but I've been so obsessed with cracking this year that I may be over-compensating. I'll give that a try.

Thanks!