Any Grow Light Suggestions?

[cjroads]

Hello,

I'm going to start some plants indoors and I wanted to know what are the best grow lights out there. Are there any good ones out there under $50?

Thanks for your time!

[rainbowgardener]

I don't know what is "the best" and if you were going to get really into that, I imagine it would depend on what you are going to grow and how -- is this just for starting seedlings for transplanting out later or are you intending to keep them under the lights indefinitely, etc.

But for cheap, ordinary fluorescent tubes, in ordinary shop light fixtures work fine for starting seedlings for later transplant. I start about 500 plants a year that way. Just be sure the lights are only a few inches above the plants (and can be raised as the plants grow) and leave them on 16 hrs a day.

[Halfway]

all of my research shows the most economical and productive to be twin 48 inch tubes with 6500K "daylight" bulbs.

Shop light ficture around 15 bucks max, bulbs aboy 3 dollars each.

[jal_ut]

Yes, the double 4 foot tube fixtures work very well and are not too expensive. I hang them from chains so the height is adjustable and keep them low enough to be within 4 inches of the plants. I used daylight tubes. I don't think it is too critical what type of tubes you use. I do leave them on 24/7.

[Ozark Lady]

Okay, has anyone done the math on the price of operating the lights?

My electric bill jumped from the usual $50.00 per month to $100.00 and it went over $200.00 this time. This is due to the unusual cold winter we are having, I also have woodburners and kerosene heater going.

I do not have any seedlings started, yet. I need to make a place to start them. The desk that I used for that last year... has a computer on it.. I picked up a windows 95 computer at a yard sale, and set it up for the grandkids to learn on... it is not online. But, I would have upset grandkids if I took out "their" computer.

I have seeds, I have potting mix, I need to start early crops... I am at square one... economically what is my best choice in lighting... that will do the job, at least until I can move the seedlings outside.

My husband wants me to start the seedlings under the house.
We have a large crawl space, and we keep it above freezing, to keep the pipes safe... that is the job of one of the woodburners. But, it would need light... kind of dark under there. I do have one lamp under there for a hen and chicks that arrived about Christmas... 6/7 of the chicks survived and are fully feathered now, I am waiting for a warm week or so, to turn them loose. It is soil base... not cement.... what do you think?
I have a fan, there to circulate the heat under all of the house.

[garden5]

Well, I believe the fluorescent tubes are 30 to 40 watts each, depending on the type of fixture you buy and its requirements.

Now, when you figure that the fixture holds two bulbs, it sounds reasonable to assume that running a one-fixture set up like this would be akin to leaving a 60 watt or 80 watt light bulb on for sixteen hours a day.

Pleas correct me, anyone, if I'm incorrect on this one.

As far as the area under your porch is concerned, I'm a little worried about it being too cold. If you throw in some extra heat, put a heat mat under the seeds for germination, and give it some lights on a timer, and GET RID OF THE CHICKENS , it sounds like it will work.

Best of luck with the garden and the seed-starting.

[rainbowgardener]

No, I haven't figured and don't really know how to figure what my seed starting operation is costing in energy bills, with (currently) 8 four foot long fluorescent tubes running and 2 heating pads. I know when I turned what on, but there are so many other variables, when the weather got cold, etc. I don't know how to sort out what part of my usage is due to this. But fluorescents are pretty efficient.

Putting your seed starting set up in a dark cold space will require a lot. Lots of light and lots of heat. "Above freezing" doesn't sound promising for tender seedlings. Except for the cold weather stuff like cabbage and broccoli, seedlings for warm weather stuff like tomatoes and peppers want their soil temps at 70 degrees and up. And even if you achieve that with heat mats or whatever, they still won't like it if air temps are down close to freezing.

Re cheapest lighting, depends on what you mean. Most energy efficient, I believe, would be LED lighting. But that is very expensive to buy. Regular fluorescent tubes in shop light fixtures are reasonably efficient and cheap to buy and work fine for starting seeds.

[Ozark Lady]

The chickens are in a cage! They aren't hurting anything at all. Besides, what else do you do with new baby chickens on Christmas eve? We were not expecting them... no brooder set up... no chick growing area ready. I refused to keep them in the house! There was no work, not much income, and no way to afford to buy stuff to set them up. It was inside the house or get creative, or let them die. I chose creative use of under the house, one cage, isn't hard to clean up the mess under. And they haven't cost but a couple bucks to feed.

I suppose the first thing I need to do is get a thermometer that measures and stores the high and low temps and check it on a daily basis... And maybe a humidity measure to do likewise.

My mind keeps saying, damp, musty, etc. But, I know it isn't really, because the fan circulates heat under there. I do agree that the temp seems like it just won't work for early season crops. But, you know, it might be cool enough to really give me a boost on mid-season seed starts that the summer heat is tough on... with the fan for circulation.

I can stand under there, and yet it is too warm for a root cellar, and too cool for most seedlings... There must be some use for it!

Okay, seed starting goes back to the gazebo where they used to be started all the time. There are 2 tables in there, set up for 4' shop lights, with plug ins and all, right up against windows for radiant heat. I plan to make the lower shelves into mushroom bins... hmm compost heat... under the seedlings... food for thought there. I may get into composting on a small scale here, for a reason, then after it breaks down... mushrooms.

[garden5]

The chickens are in a cage! They aren't hurting anything at all. Besides, what else do you do with new baby chickens on Christmas eve? We were not expecting them... no brooder set up... no chick growing area ready. I refused to keep them in the house! There was no work, not much income, and no way to afford to buy stuff to set them up. It was inside the house or get creative, or let them die. I chose creative use of under the house, one cage, isn't hard to clean up the mess under. And they haven't cost but a couple bucks to feed.

I suppose the first thing I need to do is get a thermometer that measures and stores the high and low temps and check it on a daily basis... And maybe a humidity measure to do likewise.

My mind keeps saying, damp, musty, etc. But, I know it isn't really, because the fan circulates heat under there. I do agree that the temp seems like it just won't work for early season crops. But, you know, it might be cool enough to really give me a boost on mid-season seed starts that the summer heat is tough on... with the fan for circulation.

I can stand under there, and yet it is too warm for a root cellar, and too cool for most seedlings... There must be some use for it!

Okay, seed starting goes back to the gazebo where they used to be started all the time. There are 2 tables in there, set up for 4' shop lights, with plug ins and all, right up against windows for radiant heat. I plan to make the lower shelves into mushroom bins... hmm compost heat... under the seedlings... food for thought there. I may get into composting on a small scale here, for a reason, then after it breaks down... mushrooms.

I didn't mean any offense about the chickens, OL . I was just being humorous since its almost a given that loose chickens (I didn't realize they were in a cage) and seedlings....well you could only imagine what would ensue. I really like chickens and have always wanted to have some, but zoning issues apparently don't like them quite so much. .

With that aside, I think that your gazebo sounds like a much better places to start the seeds.

Happy growing.

[Kisal]

... it is too warm for a root cellar, and too cool for most seedlings... There must be some use for it!

Storage for canned goods? You'd need to add shelves, of course.

[Ozark Lady]

That storage for canned goods would be a good idea if two things prove out... not too moist, the lids would rust through.
And not too much temperature variance... the variances in temperatures cause the lids to come loose.

I didn't take it as offense about the chickens... I should have been clearer, I guess most folks would have thought they were loose under there. But, it vents directly into the water shed, so, no way will I have chickens in there... it is a closed water system, but still... it would just be icky, if you have to work on anything there. And not anyone that I ever heard tell of... had chickens under their house! Kind of comical. But, what do you do with them? I sat and looked at them, and listened to them holler, and decided, not in the house... no way! But, what to do... the only other heated area was under the house. And it isn't warm enough for baby chicks... so I caught mama too, and put the whole family in a cage, on leaves, on the ground under there.

[resolutejc]

I have the 4 ft. dual high-output fluorescent tek-light from yardlover.com

If I had to do it over again, I'd buy exactly the same thing, plus two, 2-ft. units for supplemental vertical/side plant growth. I'd also line my growing area with Mylar. High-output fluorescents are significantly more powerful than standard shop light fluoresecents. With supplemental side growth, you ensure even growth of the plant at all angles. Make sure you have at least one 3500k red spectrum bulb. The rest can be 6500k blue spectrum bulbs.

[Tom the Elder]

Anyone have suggestions where to by 6500K bulbs? The only ones I can find on line require a T5 fixture, not a regular shop light fixture, and cost about $16 for a 4 ft bulb. Thanks

[resolutejc]

Anyone have suggestions where to by 6500K bulbs? The only ones I can find on line require a T5 fixture, not a regular shop light fixture, and cost about $16 for a 4 ft bulb. Thanks

6500k/3000k 54-Watt Fluorescents are not compatable with shop light fixtures. Shop lights are inferior to the High-Output T5 lights. I bought my T5 Unit from yardlover.com

The 4-ft. dual fluorescent units cost anywhere between $100 and $200 and the bulbs can be found for a good price at $10 - $13 each.

[GeorgiaGirl]

I'm trying to find a high-output T5 system, but the cheapest I've found has been a set with a single 48" full spectrum agrosun T5 High Output Fluorescent tube. It costs about $60 (as opposed to sets I had been seeing on gardeners.com for $200+).

Is that a reasonable price for a single-bulb system? (That's not just the bulb but the fixture, adjustment chain etc.) Or can I get T5 lights at Lowe's and rig up my own system for a lot less?

[resolutejc]

I'm trying to find a high-output T5 system, but the cheapest I've found has been a set with a single 48" full spectrum agrosun T5 High Output Fluorescent tube. It costs about $60 (as opposed to sets I had been seeing on gardeners.com for $200+).

Is that a reasonable price for a single-bulb system? (That's not just the bulb but the fixture, adjustment chain etc.) Or can I get T5 lights at Lowe's and rig up my own system for a lot less?

A single bulb system would not provide enough lumens for your plants. You need a dual bulb system at the least; 4-ft. preferably. The best price I've seen for such a unit was about $142. For the sacrifice of appearances, I bought the Tek light on yardlover.com - It was $187. If I had it to do over again, I would buy two of the $142 units. One for my seedlings and one for my mature plants. The seedling lamp would have two 6500k blue spectrum bulbs while the mature lamp would have one 6500k blue spectrum bulb and one 3000k red spectrum bulb. Reason being that flowering/fruiting plants require some red spectrum light to flower/fruit. If I remember correctly, the perfect rate is 9 (blue) to 1 (red).

You won't be able to find comparable systems for cheaper prices at Lowe's. It is sad, but that is just how much these high-output systems cost nowadays. The bulbs themselves are an additional $10-15. Most companies that sell these units can switch up the bulbs spectrums for you if requested.

Keep in mind that if you are not rearing your plants 100% indoors to maturity then a standard shop light fluorescent fixture (which are much cheaper than HO's) will suffice. By using these, you can successfully grow seedlings indoors with decent, albeit weaker results.

[cynthia_h]

Hello,

I'm going to start some plants indoors and I wanted to know what are the best grow lights out there. Are there any good ones out there under $50?

Thanks for your time!

Ladies/Gentlemen,

This discussion is getting pretty far afield (and definitely much more expensive!) from what the OP requested: lights to start some plants indoors. I find no hint in the original post about needing intense heat/light/firepower throughout the season.

Please tailor your responses to the OP's request.

Thank you.

Cynthia H.
Moderator

[Halfway]

I thank EVERYONE for their posting ESPECIALLY when it got off track as the honest "mistake" (if it was a mistake) shed some light (LOL) on some really great info.

Thanks for the postings!!

[GeorgiaGirl]

A single bulb system would not provide enough lumens for your plants. You need a dual bulb system at the least; 4-ft. preferably. The best price I've seen for such a unit was about $142. For the sacrifice of appearances, I bought the Tek light on yardlover.com - It was $187. If I had it to do over again, I would buy two of the $142 units. One for my seedlings and one for my mature plants. The seedling lamp would have two 6500k blue spectrum bulbs while the mature lamp would have one 6500k blue spectrum bulb and one 3000k red spectrum bulb. Reason being that flowering/fruiting plants require some red spectrum light to flower/fruit. If I remember correctly, the perfect rate is 9 (blue) to 1 (red).

You won't be able to find comparable systems for cheaper prices at Lowe's. It is sad, but that is just how much these high-output systems cost nowadays. The bulbs themselves are an additional $10-15. Most companies that sell these units can switch up the bulbs spectrums for you if requested.

Keep in mind that if you are not rearing your plants 100% indoors to maturity then a standard shop light fluorescent fixture (which are much cheaper than HO's) will suffice. By using these, you can successfully grow seedlings indoors with decent, albeit weaker results.

This is SUPER helpful... thank you. So, basically, assuming I want to START seedlings indoors (for transferring to an outdoor garden), I could use a standard shop fluorescent light, but a two-bulb high-output T5 system would produce stronger seedlings (better root system etc.)... right?

Just so I'm understanding... is a single-bulb high-output system not good enough even for starting seedlings that will be transplanted outdoors? What do they sell a single-bulb system for then?

[applestar]

I have a single tube 2' T5 "system" that I bought because I could get it for $25 off and no shipping. What I'm finding out is that the single tube doesn't light up sufficiently wide area to provide for a standard sized flat. The seedlings are all leaning toward the middle. If I raise the tube any higher, the overall light exposure goes down and the seedlings start to get spindly. I just ordered a second reflector/fixture/tube set and I'm going to rig it so the two fixtures will be lighting the area. This actually may work out to my advantage because these 2 tubes will be somewhat more separated than a 2-tube unit.

HOWEVER, if you're growing a row of 6 or 4 packs, the single tube unit will suffice.

Standard shop lights (T12s) works just fine for growing healthy seedlings, and you can also shop T8's for price comparison. The key is adjusting the height of the lights and the plants so that top of the foliage are all at the same height (I prefer individual pots grouped in drip trays by seedling height, set on aluminum foil covered boxes for better light reflection (try it with and without and you'll see what I mean).

Also -- Tips on Gardening Forum: [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21869&highlight=]A shiny!! Recycled reflective surface to up light exposure[/url]

[GeorgiaGirl]

Ahhh, that makes sense... thank you SO much!!

[resolutejc]

Whatever is cheapest for you. T5's are not cheap. Multiple shop lights are sufficient for rearing seedlings. However, if you want them to last until maturity, choose T5's.

[Halfway]

I am using disposable aluminum lasagna pans as drip pans. Reflective and sturdy enough for hardening off when needed. Cheap too.

[applestar]

That's a good idea Halfway. I have one too. I also reuse aluminum takeout pans. Of course just yesterday, I had one that started to leak as soon as I added water to bottom water. Luckily just one drip at a time. It was a pan that used to have a roast chicken or something in it and had a tiny hole where the knife poked through when cutting it up. I'm holding them up to the light before using as drip pan from now on They're useful just kept around plants and seedlings too. I have several propped up in my Mushroom Room (mushroom fruiting area) to reflect light for the light hungry Oyster Mushrooms and on the room-side of container plants trying to get as much of the weak winter sun as possible.

You're right about the lasagna pan. It's much sturdier.

[cynthia_h]

...aluminum takeout pans. Of course just yesterday, I had one that started to leak as soon as I added water to bottom water. Luckily just one drip at a time.

Might I suggest that ever-helpful substance...duct tape? In this case, a small patch applied to the inside of the aluminum tray. It will render the tray ineligible for cooking forevermore, but after its use as a drip tray...well...

Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9

[garden5]

While we are on the subject of reflectors; after realizing that I could be in trouble growing my onions in window-light, I made a 1 ft. high wall of aluminum foil around the back and one side of the tray. Hopefully, this will help them get a little more light and grow a little straighter.

Next year, will have to get another light. Ha, I haven't even got some of my plants started yet and I'm dreaming about next year. Time to slow down .

[seagullplayer]

[img]https://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/CFsetup.jpg[/img]

My cheap "plug and play" setup. I have room to add another CF in the center of the strip should I need it. The lights are within my small indoor greenhouse that sets infront of my living room windows. I am hoping that with the combination of indirect sun and these lights I can keep my seedlings from getting legy.

These bulbs are the cheap 60 Watt from the dollar store.

I should know in a few days if they are strong enough.

[img]https://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/tomato1.jpg[/img]

Results from this morning. Started rotating the tray today, hope to transplant into pots this weekend.

[applestar]

Don't wait a few days. Your tomato seedlings are looking a bit leggy/spindly. I'm using 100W and 125W equivalents. Put in that 3rd bulb and move the trays up just a bit more, so the leaves are closer but not close enough to crisp, or change out the bulbs.

If you can, get smaller trays and group the pellets according to sprout sizes. Put the short ones immediately below each light bulb, up higher and closer to the bulb so the newer sprouts won't be as leggy. The taller ones may lean since below the bulb is brightest, but you can compensate by turning them, and later burying the stem up to the seed leaves.

[applestar]

Here's my rig. Now it handles one standard sized tray PLUS a row of 2 4-packs and a recycled OJ carton seedling flat. I needed something light weight to mount the two T5 fixtures on, and my eyes LIT upon a two pack of 20"x16" pre-made artists canvas (WITH corner braces -- not all of them come with those) that I had lying around in the garage.
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6420.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6421.jpg[/img]

For those of you who are thinking "But, Applestar, you said you don't like the 72-cell seed starters" -- yeah, yeah. Do as I say, not as I do.
These seeds all had similar germination days. Besides, salvias and begonias are bedding plants, and they're bred to germinate and grow all together.

But lookee here, the begonias in the first 4 left rows STILL haven't shown a peep. I'm going to have trouble with them since the salvias are way ahead of them. With the new setup, the salvia seedlings are starting to straighten up.

As I'm looking at it, I'm seeing that the big tray is going to have to sit up higher since the cotton seedlings just sprouting in the OJ container is obviously going to get much bigger. The 4-packs on the left contain tropical milkweed. I have them arranged this way because the milkweed and cotton were just emerging, but I'm putting them in the back soon and bringing the tray back to the front so I can take care of it, including rotating the tray daily, more easily. You can't really see them, but there are two hanging pot hooks on the top of the canvas that the rings for the cord for adjusting the light is attached to.

[garden5]

Looks good Appstar !

It seems like a lot of people don't care for the 72-cell flats. I think that perhaps because they don't give the plants enough root space. If a plant gets root bound (can't do this with melons) you can loosen up the roots before planting, although I'll readily admit that this is not as good in growing them in a manner that they don't get root bound at all.

I've planted store bought starts that seemed kind of tight in the roots, but they still grew fine. I'd like to pot-up to larger pots, but don't have the area or the lighting this year, so I'll see how things go with keeping them in the cells. I'm thinking that I'll at least do better than I did last year when I kept about 10+ plants to a communitarian container. End result? 2 in. pepper plants and tomatoes.

On a bit of a side note: the 2-3 in. tomatoes grew great and bore fruit fairly well. The peppers on the other hand, bore only about two peppers (and that was at the end of the season !

Anyway, have a great gardening year, everyone !