pH 7 is exactly neutral. The scale goes from 1 to 14. Nutrients are most available between about 6.2-6.8. Your soil is just right in regards to pH but I would definitely avoid adding any lime, dolomite, or wood ashes to your soil because they add calcium and tend to raise pH.
Your high calcium levels are the reason for the relatively high pH of your soil. Carbonic acid [CO2] in rain water tends to leach calcium out of the soil, which is why soils that are not over limestone bedrock tend to be acidic. Organic matter [OM or POM/DOM: P= Particulate, D = Dissolved] in the soil help to buffer pH, and if you do have high organic matter in the soil it could be the reason your soil pH isn't even higher.
Nitrogen values are tricky. The tests look for specific ions (nitrate, nitrite, ammonium --each requires a different test), but nitrogen is also found bound to organic matter/humus and as part of microbial cells--amino acids etc. In soil with high organic content much of the nitrogen is held in organic form and recycled/released to plants at different times and rates depending on microbial activity, so even though the soil could have plenty of nitrogen for plants, depending on when you took your soil sample you could have very low values (nitrogen held in living microbes) and think you need to add nitrogen. In soil with low organic matter most of the nitrogen will be in ionic form and the tests will give a more accurate estimate of what is available for the plants.
You should also have values for potasium [K] , magnesium [Mg] and maybe other things.
I Googled "soil test results" and found several web pages explaining what is tested and what it means. you might have to go through a couple until you find one that uses the same units as your report (lbs per acre vs parts per million.
If you live in the southwest, you might have salt concerns, and this New Mexico site could help explain things, as it is a bit more detailed than some of the other sites.