I am looking to buy a tiller.

[RayinPenn]

I am looking to buy a tiller.
1) My veggie garden isnt huge maybe 20 x 20.
2) My budget isnt unlimited
3) I have to store it.
I think id do a better job of turning over my soil and incorporating my compost.. Anyone buy one of those small front tiller and have any success? (My gardens new and I'm sure there are plenty roots in there still.)

[hendi_alex]

First if you are only going to use the machine on a 20 x 20 and have no other uses in mind, you may want to consider renting one once or twice per year. They probably cost as little as $50 per use. There would be no storage and no maintenance, perhaps worth considering.

A couple of years ago, I bought a wheel drive cub cadet. It has been great. Starts easily, walk beside it with one hand guiding. It is small to medium sized so doesn't take up a lot of space. I understand that cub cadet was bought out by a less reputable company who exploits established brand names. This company also bought Troy Built as I understand it. But anyway, my Cub Cadet seems to still have good quality, and the price was very reasonable too at around $800. You can often get a good buy this time of the year, as a retailer is eager to clear the inventory. Tractor Supply usually carries the Cub Cadets at a reasonable price.

[a0c8c]

I've had a lot of luck with Troy Built. They've been a good company, bt everything I've used is over 10 years old so I can't vouch for their new stuff. I'll give you one bit of advice, and it's an important piece of advice, spend MORE than you think you'll need to spend. Cheap tillers, no matter who they're from, will break, and break quickly. Cheap tillers are throw aways, like all other cheap lawn equipment. The more you spend on the tiller, and better care you take(wash after every use, change oil twice a year, etc.) the less you'll spend on repairs and maintanence, and the less headaches you'll have.

Oh, by the way, I'm in school the be a small engine mechanic, and we've worked on alot of cheap tillers, and more than half get thrown away because they caost way more than the tiller is worth to fix. When we get a good expensive one in, it's usually 5-10 years old before it breaks.

[freedhardwoods]

What a0c8c said. New Troybilts are junk. Mine is 17 years old and the only thing I have replaced is the tines because I used it so much I wore them out.

I agree with hendi_alex also. For that size plot, renting might be an idea to think about.

[dan1003]

I've recently seen several used tillers on craigslist.org for sale in my area for $80 to $200. Might be a place to start...

[hendi_alex]

The one thing that I absolutely hate about tillers and other small gasoline engine yard machines is their tendency to become difficult to start and less than reliable after a few years of use. I would only recommend a used tiller for a person who is mechanically inclined and who likes to tinker on such a machine. Otherwise, for me the best option appears to be renting, if use is somewhat limited, or if use would justify the expense, buying new with the idea of replacing the machine once it becomes aggrivating and become less than reliable.

[dan1003]

Agreed, Alex. You're especially going to have problems if you only run it a few times a year.

[Gary350]

I have a small 5 HP tiller that I bought several years ago. The motor is shot so I tried to buy a new tiller this summer but all the tillers are over priced worthless junk. So I bought a new motor for my old tiller.

Lowe' and Home Depot are selling the same tillers I would not take one home if it was free. They use a vertical shaft lawn mower engine to a gear box I know a few people that bought one and it lasted 2 years and the gear box stripped out.

I found a used tiller yesterday for $75 it is much better than what is available new these days. Check craigs list see if you can find a good one. Tractor Supply also have some good tillers much cheaper and much better than Lowes and Home Depot.

[jal_ut]

A Mantis tiller would be just the right size for your 20 x 20 garden. They run about $350 and there are several options on engines, including an all electric model.

A Troybilt Pony would be my next choice. These are a joy to operate. There has been some thumbs down on the new Troybilts in this thread.
I can only say that I know of two machines both 2 years old that have been excellent so far. One is the Horse model and the other is the Pony model. They have both been used a bunch.

About keeping things running; put Stabil in the gas tank in the fall before storage. Change the spark plug and the oil in the spring. Use clean fresh fuel. Yes, you have to do that if you want to keep it running. If that is too much bother, buy a shovel!

[a0c8c]

Also, don't store gas in the tiller's tank. Always empty it when not in use, ESPECIALLY if you have a plastic gas tank. The government wants to increase the amount of ethenol in gas, and the ethenol will eat way at the plastic if even the least bit of moisture gets in there. One drop of water, and by by gas tank. The ethenol is also hard on fuel lines, and your carburator, so beware.

[freedhardwoods]

I will amend my statement about Troybilt tillers. If you are the type of person that takes extra time to treat your equipment carefully and you don't till areas that have buried tree roots, big rocks, concrete blocks, etc, a new Troybilt may last you a long time. That description doesn't fit me. I USE my tiller to the point that some people might say I am abusing it. I can't begin to remember how many times I have had the tiller yanked out of my hand because the tines hooked something that I couldn't see. The new cheap gearboxes can't take that kind of treatment. That is why I want one that is rock solid. I don't baby my equipment.

[Earl K]

Tear it up freed,tear it up

[gixxerific]

I would go used as well. I have been borrowing my grandpas fore ever cause I couldn't get myself to buy one of those pieces of junks they are trying to pawn off now.

Well finally I have for myself, it's an 'ol skool Cratftmsman 24" 5 hp. It works great take the abuse and starts EVERY time on at least the 2nd pull. Do as others have said check craigs list or something.

Good luck

[tomf]

I recommend a rear end tiller if you do not want to work your self to death. I do not even use my front end one any more.
I have a few tillers and a cultivator I use to weed with. One thing I have to warn you about; if you pick up a rear end tiller’s back it may through a rock at you! Oh that hurts!

The troy built are not bad for what you pay but you guys who say it is not good enough this BCS is heavy duty, the tines are thick and look like real farm equipment. It is real farm equipment. You can even get a seat that tows behind it turning it into a sort of tractor. It has big wheels and a powerful motor. This guy starts on the first pull. I also have a cutting bar that goes on it, the handlebars spin around and you run it in reverse. You can get them at a place that sells farm tractors.
If that is not big and powerful enough for you then get some thing like the tiller I like the most, it is the one that goes on the back of my tractor. This tiller really does the work fast. I have had to till large areas and this is what you need for that. I like to do as much gardening sitting down as I can.

Photos of said gear bellow;

[img]https://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e57/twistedtomf/tiller3.jpg[/img]


[img]https://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e57/twistedtomf/tractortiller.jpg[/img]

[hendi_alex]

I'm not a fan of 'really good tillers' and much prefer the cheap, use for a few years and sell, give away, or junk strategy. My first tiller was one of the heavy duty Ariens Rocket Tillers. It probably weighed over 400 pounds and would most certainly still be running if I had cared for it properly. As it was, the thing only lasted about 20 years. The problem is, just like with the cheap junk models, after about five years it started to be aggrivating. When time came to use the tiller, I had to fiddle with it, mess with it, repair it, flush it,................. It was the same story season after season. It became more difficult to crank and was never a pleasure to use after the first several seasons. I paid about $1200 for it about 30 years ago. Two seasons ago I bought a cheap $800 cub cadet rear tine tiller. I really love the reversible tines feature. So far, every use, just a couple of pulls and it is running and ready to go. The first time that the machine lets me down, I'll take it to the shop and get it serviced. If there is any persistant trouble after that or the machine doesn't remain extra easy to crank, it will be the highway for that machine and I'll be buying another inexpensive replacement.

The moral of the story. Inexpensive tillers run just as well for the first few years as do the expensive ones. Even the expensive tillers become trouble after a few years. I would rather buy cheap and more often, so as to avoid the aggrivation of coaxing an old expensive tiller into performing for another season.

[Ohio Tiller]

I have one of those small electric mantis tillers that I use in my raised beds and it works great. It is not that deep digger like a Troy built but it does get the job done. I have a Troy built pony that I got from my Grandpa. it is a 1970's model and tuff as a Sherman tank! I use it in my bigger garden and just love walking behind it knowing my Grandpa did the same thing! You can find some real good used tillers on Craig's list for around 300 to 400 hundred.

[freedhardwoods]

I'm not a fan of 'really good tillers'........The problem is, just like with the cheap junk models, after about five years it started to be aggrivating. When time came to use the tiller, I had to fiddle with it, mess with it, repair it, flush it,................. It was the same story season after season. It became more difficult to crank and was never a pleasure to use after the first several seasons.

You must have got a lemon. I just pour gas in and start my Troybilt every year. It always works like it's supposed to.

[imafan26]

I have a small tiller, it is more of a cultivator. It is high maintenance, requiring cleaning and greasing every 20 hours. You have to let it run dry or put stabil in the ethanol free gas or it spoils and you have to get it out before you can start the machine. Small tillers are dangerous. You need to be careful about rocks flying and the kickback will make it bounce and it is not as easy to control as a rear tine tiller, which also tills deeper.

Tilling is really not that great for the soil. It actually will kill soil microbes and most tillers still require you to walk behind them so you end up compacting the soil you just tilled.

If it is the first time and you have a lot of amendments to add, it probably is worth renting a tiller first.

After that, you should be able to do a 20x20 garden by hand especially if you can get a few friends over to help. You provide the pizza and beer afterwards.

[River]

I have the rear tine husqvarna tiller that sells for $599. Great tiller and I use ethanol free gas in all my equipment.

[hendi_alex]

Had to put a new carburetor on my Cub Cadet this year. Is cranking and running very reliably now. Still will buy a new model in a year or two regardless. Six to eight years will likely be the max that I try to squeeze out. Will sell the machine while it still runs well and replace with a new one. That way cost is held down while at the same time always having an easy to crank relatively new model.

[Black River]

I have two MTD Yard Machines rear tine tillers, one is my dad's old belt driven, and I own a shaft driven one. I've had the shaft driven one for 5 years and finally the main pulley wore out and I had to replace it. It has a Honda clone engine on it that never fails to start. The one that belonged to my dad is about 20 years old, and the carb wore out on the Briggs engine that was on it. This year I replaced it with a $100 6.5 hp Harbor Freight engine that starts every time and is powerful. I also replaced the belt for the first time this year. You just want to change the oil frequently the first few uses. One thing that I started doing this year was buying ethanol-free fuel and run it in my lawnmower, weedeater, tillers, and chainsaw. I have yet to have any problem using ethanol free. Ethanol gums up the carbs on gas engines, and unless you know how to clean a carb properly, its a hassle.

[jal_ut]

I bought my Troybilt Horse model in 1978. Yes I have had to put new tines on it and a new engine, but it goes on and on. I grow a big garden. This is more tiller than you need for a 20 x 20, but sure a nice machine for a little more space.

I just dug out the invoice on it. In 1978 I paid $652. Gee that was 38 years ago. 652/38 = $17.16 per year. Add on a new engine and tine replacements and it is still an inexpensive investment considering what I have got out of it over the years.

No matter what machine you may buy, it is mandatory that you check it over before each use and tighten the bolts, and change the oil now and then. If you are to keep any machine running, it needs maintenance. Plan on it.

If that is too much bother, buy a shovel.

[imafan26]

The biggest problem with the light tiller/cultivators like mantis is the kickback. Front engine tillers cost more but will till deeper and be easier to handle. However, unless you have a tractor, it is not designed to dig through rocks and roots.
Most tillers only get about 4-6 inches deep, but the weight of the tiller and the fact that you almost always have to walk behind it compacts the soil again. Tillers have to be serviced every 20 hours. It is not hard to do but it is a pain to do it. I have not used my tiller in years. It was hard to start especially if it had old gas in it. You have to run the tiller until it is out of gas if you don't use it frequently, but you have to prime it again to get it started. In the end it is actually easier to till in the compost with a shovel than to use the tiller. You also have to weed first or the weeds will wind around a small tiller/cultivator's tines and they are a pain to remove.

[ButterflyLady29]

I can't even turn my tiller in a 20' x 20' space. It's a monster and super heavy. In my 30' x 30' garden I used a tiller only once and that was to break up the weed patch left by the previous home owner. I laid out beds and paths and use only a shovel, trowel, hoe and garden rake there now.

[Black River]

I had a replay all typed out til I realized I posted on the same thread a year ago...LOL. I advise burning ethanol free fuel in any engine.