Free containers Part 2: The Tomato Cage

[gixxerific]

From this mangled mess
[img]https://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj185/gixxerific/DSC02706.jpg[/img]

To this not so mangled mess
[img]https://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj185/gixxerific/DSC02710.jpg[/img]

What do you think? There was a thread a bit ago that we were talking about these. I couldn't find it. I believe it was Ted saying how big he made them. I made this one 11 full squares I meant to do 12 but messed it up. Oh well I have a bunch more on that role.

Thing is it seems a little small to me just wondering what you all think if you have something like this how big are yours.
It's on average 20 inches across.

Thanks

[smokensqueal]

My step father has this exact set up for his tomatoes. I think his might be just a little bigger but hard to tell. They work great. I wish I had a place to store some so I could use them but I have to use stakes and tie my plants to them.

[cynthia_h]

Is this concrete-reinforcing wire?

If so, it's reputed to be *excellent* for tomato frames.

Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9

[Decado]

How did you secure the 2 ends together? Do you have a welder or did you use some method those of us who don't have one could use?

[TZ -OH6]

11 squares (20-21") is a popular diameter, but I find it a bit small for really big indeterminants, and wish I would have made mine 24" or larger.


Decado, when you cut the horizontal wires next to the upright wire you are left with a 6" inch tab that is easily bent back to form hooks that hold the cage together.

The trick to working with CRW is to use a small bolt cutter rather than large wire cutters. That wire is really tough.

[hendi_alex]

I make my cages 10 squares, plus the loose end of the 11th square for securing the cage into a cylinder. The size works fine for all of my tomatoes. For tomatoes in a row, I put a post at each end of the row, then run wire from one post, through the top section of each cage, and then secure to the other post. Eye bolts works very well for the attachment site. Cages are twist tied to the wire to hold them vertical, keeping them from sliding side to side. For a single tomato, I drive a t-post in the ground beside the cage and then twist tie one or two pieces of wire to secure the cage to the t-post. I find that old scraps of 14 gauge copper wire work great as twist ties, and they last indefinitely.

I agree that high quality bolt cutters work well for cutting the wire, but a large pair of side cutters work fine also. Cutting the cages may require man strength though.

[gixxerific]

Cynthia it is concrete reinforcing wire it was left over on a jobsite so walla in my truck it went.

Decado as others have said you just bend over the last section and its done. But you could use wire or anything to hold them together. I took off every other loose end as well just my bending back and forth a few times. It breaks off a whole lot easier than cutting. Too bad you can't bend it off the rolls that would be sweet.

I used bolt and side cutters I had better luck with the side cutters, it does take man strength as said. But being a bricklayer and 12 years a hod carrier (laborer) I have Popeye forearms, aint nothing to it.

I think I will make a few different sizes and see what works best for me. Since I have a bunch of it I might try putting squash and other climbing\vining plants in them.

Might have been the HG that said somewhere in my searching that there may be some sort of help to plants with wire cages due to something with the slight magnetic field they emit that helps the plants. Sorry I can't remember all the details. I try to find it again.

Thanks for the replies