holmancentral
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Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:21 pm

Corn Question

I just picked my corn which did not do so great! I had small ears and there were lots of worms.

I thought about trying again. I just wondered if it is too late to plant another crop, and could I plant it in the same area? I live in central Oklahoma so I am not sure what the zone really is. It is about 1 hour north of Oklahoma City. If any one has any ideas, I would appreciate it. Any tricks to growing corn? Also, did I maybe leave too many stalks...How far apart should the plants be? Thanks in Advance for all the help.

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rootsy
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Location: Litchfield, Michigan

You can get some 68 and 70 day corn. Get it in now and you'll have corn in September. As long as you don't get an early frost.

If you can find Xtra Tender 270A, get some... You won't be disappointed.

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pharmerphil
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Location: Minnesota

you could plant it in the same area, but with the problems you had with the last crop, it may be ill advised.
Corn is a heavy feeder, and if you do plant in the same spot, you'll really need to lay in the fertilizer...
It's best to plant corn in a plot that is as long as it is wide, it helps with pollination, one single row, you don'y get good coverage.
In my old place, I didn't have the room I have now, and I planted on a one foot grid!
and got excellent harvests..
However, here, we go 16 inches between plants, and 24 inches between rows, mostly because that allows the tiller through for cultivation...

Once the plant starts tasseling..Do not water from above.

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freedhardwoods
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Location: Southwest IN

If I see worms attacking the ears of my corn, I lightly spray Sevin right on the end of the ear. That stops the worms and the damage they cause. As far as planting in the same spot, I would say if you do, put on plenty of fertilizer when you plant like pharmerphil said and sidedress at least once with nitrogen. Twice would be better.

I have been successfully planting much thicker than most people for years. I plant about 3" apart in 30" rows so my tiller will fit through. A lot of the success I attribute to having enriched my soil over the years. If your soil is not built up, planting thick probably wouldn't work so well. 8)

holmancentral
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Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:21 pm

Thanks you. I was so discouraged with this crops that I want to try again but do not want the same results

I did have about 24-30 inches between my rows and had 5 rows. I only go 1 small ear on most stalks. About 1/2 of those were mainly devoured by caterpillar worms. Last year, my husband had usually more than one ear at least. I am actually not sure what ALL I did wrong.

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rootsy
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Location: Litchfield, Michigan

put some 12-12-12 banded on top 6 inches off of the row at planting and water it in. Once the corn is about knee high get some 46-0-0 banded the same and watered in. Best to put down a granulated fertilizer just before a rain unless you want to irrigate. The granulated lying on top will volitize and the nitrogen will escape into the air. If you apply as a liquid (21-0-0-24) will work, you can dribble it on 6 inches off of the row, right on top. Since it is in liquid form it'll soak in and the nitrogen is tied up in solution and will bond to the soil instead of off-gassing into the atmosphere.

Commercially sweet corn is planted on anything from 30" - 40" rows. Depends on if you are going to manually cultivate really. Populations of about 20 - 22K seeds / acre after germination and environmental loss. Puts seeds about 7 - 8" apart in row. That translates to about 24 - 25K seeds actually put in the ground.

If you have a small area you can plant a single or two rows and achieve good pollination if you hill drop. Plant multiple ( 3 - 4 seeds) per drop and space the "hills" out 12 - 18" apart. You don't actually make a "hill" just a small divit, drop in the seeds, cover and firm. If you are planting an Sh2 type corn put it in shallow... No more than an inch deep. Soil temp should not be an issue and it needs adequate moisture to germinate, especially at that depth as soil that close to the surface will dry out pretty quickly... Especially with a good breeze on a warm day.

Commercially sweet corn will get a starter, depending upon soil type and nutrients that already exist. Anything from straight urea to DAP (10-34-0) or MAP (11-52-0) to liquid of various compositions. At about knee high (v7 - v8ish) it'll get side dressed with either Anhydrous Ammonia (82-0-0) or 28 (28-0-0) or 32% liquid (32-0-0) at a rate of about 300 lbs of Nitrogen / acre. About double the rate of field (dent) corn.

From tassel to harvest corn needs about an inch of water a week. Do not be afraid to irrigate from above at tassel or past tassel.

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jal_ut
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Location: Northern Utah Zone 5

I think you can plant now and still get a harvest this year. I planted some on the 4th of July last year and it made it. Look for something that is short season.

My usual recommendation on corn is to plant at least 3 rows and more is better. Rows at 30 to 36 inches apart and seed 8 to 12 inches apart in the row. Use some nitrogen at planting time and again just before it tassels. Careful not to over apply the fertilizer. Read the package for application rates. It will vary depending on the product.

I am stuck with overhead sprinkling on my gardens, and I sprinkle once a week all season. Things do well. I don't quite understand the many recommendations I see which go: "Do Not Sprinkle.............". It is no different than a rain, the natural way to water.

You may miss the worms with a later planting. One thing that has been recommended for the worms is to use mineral oil. You apply with an eye dropper, one drop per ear on the silk after it appears.

Here is a paper you may find interesting: [url=https://www.pfi.iastate.edu/ofr/Crops/SA14_Protecting_Sweet_Corn_from_Corn_Earworm_w_Oil_and%20Btk.pdf]Click here[/url]

I hate to see poisons used on corn because the pollen is very attractive to bees and spraying corn in the pollen dropping stage spells disaster to the bees.



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