Plant problems in the desert

[Norrisboat]

Hi everyone. New to the forum and looking forward to learning tons. I have a couple plant issues and with all the information on the internet it’s confusing me which problem I have.

I’m guessing I have root rot on my tomato plant because this plants soil doesn’t dry up much because it’s under more shade than the rest.

My bean plant seems to have stopped growing and the leaves appear to be turning brown.

Thanks for any insight you can bring.

[rainbowgardener]

Your tomato plant has a fungal disease; I'm guessing septoria. That's odd for being in the desert; usually it is a disease of humid climates. Maybe you have been watering the leaves? And that shady location next to a wall isn't good for it. Not as much air circulation with the wall behind it, holds the moisture, etc. If you type septoria in to the search box top left, it will bring up over 200 threads about it here, so lots of good information.

The bean plants just look sunburned. Were the seeds planted in the ground or were the plants transplanted there? When plants are tender and not accustomed to full sun (especially full desert sun), they can get sunscald. Keep the roots well watered. The new leaves that come out should be fine and then you can cut off the damaged ones.

[Gary350]

WHAT is your geographical location?

WHAT is the temperature there NOW?

When I lived in Phoenix AZ area the garden started to died about mid May when temperatures were 100 degrees every day. Big sky country with no clouds all day is much different than living back east where there are trees and clouds. Full sun all day really is full sun all day in the desert. Back east clouds made full sun all day 50% shade. Soil & water are both 8ph but it was never a problem. The garden did suffer really bad from BER = blossom end rot.

Desert is low humidity dry heat it dries plant leaves up like an oven. I even bought a water mister from Lowe's to spray the plants all day it made plants die a slower death.

I had better luck keeping my desert garden alive covering it with tarps and shade cloth from 11am until dark but it still died when temperatures reached 110 degrees F.

Best time to plant a desert garden is November 1st. it was 70 degrees F all winter.

Watermelons, cantaloupe, sweet potatoes love HOT weather they do excellent in 115 degrees full sun all day. Did you ever try to eat a 30 lb watermelon every day for 7 months.

[jal_ut]

Hi Norrisboat. Welcome to the forum. You may want to put your location and plant hardiness zone in your profile info. Knowing these things other gardeners will be better able to help you with your problems.

[Norrisboat]

Thanks everyone for your response. It seems like it could be possibly several things from what everyone is saying. I also went down to the local nursery today and he said the bean plant might have blight. He said the tomato plant looks like it is over watered. He suggested I put a flag emitter on the drip line so I could turn that one tomato plant off so it doesn’t get the scheduled watering. I have everything watered with timer controller. He also said I should put 3 tablespoons of fertilizer on it to increase the nitrogen since it’s been over a month since I planted.

Does this seem reasonable from what the guy at the nursery is saying.

[applestar]

No. Don’t fertilize, especially with chemical fertilizer until we have this figured out. Stressed out plant will not be helped.

It will help to know your location for sure.

If Gary350’s example can be a guide to your situation, this location next to the concrete wall could be even more alkaline. You might want to get a simple soil pH test kit.

Another possibility is reflected heat from the wall is exacerbating the temperature problem.

Severity of completely dead new shoots is concerning me.

Start by cutting off all dried up shoots and yellowed beyond recovery leaves. Please post the “after” picture. We will be able to see what is still healthy and have a better, recognizable view of the parts that are starting to suffer damage.

In case it IS fungal disease, dispose of the cut off leaves bagged securely in trash. Pick up any leaves that have already fallen off as well.

...also, I see another plant further down along the wall... how many plants go you have here? Is this the only one suffering this kind of damage?

— one other thing — after removing dead and too far gone foliage, what I would consider doing if nutrient level is a concern is to spray with seaweed extract fertilizer — like liquid kelp, maxicrop, etc. if you have access to willow trees (.I don’t know if you would in your location ) boiled willow leaf, twig, and bark “tea” is another plant health promoting “tonic”. Compost or vermicast tea is another option. Any of these boosts the plants immune system and contain micro nutrients (like “vitamin supplement” for plants)

[jal_ut]

Growing in a pot? Be advised that it is far better to grow in the ground. Plant roots will go as wide as the plant on the surface, and sometimes as deep as 4 to 8 feet.

[Norrisboat]

Thanks Applestar and Gary for your tips.

Unfortunately I didn’t see your fertilizer warning in time. I fertilized and watered it yesterday.

I live in Phoenix. I don’t know what zone that is but it’s hot as you know what. It is about 99 during the day and about 67 for the low this week.

Sorry I’m so late to reply. My daughter keeps me running. I’ll try to get back sooner if someone replies.

I’m no pro but I would say the Wall is not the problem because you can see I have 3 other tomato plants doing great next to my 2 sick ones. The 3 healthy ones get significantly more sun due to the tree. All my tomato plants are in shade by 2pm because they are on the west wall.

I cut the worst tomato down a lot based on applestars advice. Please check the picks.

[Norrisboat]

Also forgot to mention that I tested my soil and it was about a 6.