This Might have been covered already.
But there are other Neem Products That have their place in the Garden
Quality (from NeemFoundation - not DTE) certified organic Neem Seed Meal or even Karanja Seed Meal Have a good nutritional analysis as well as the same compounds found in Neem Oil.
If you repeatedly are having problems with pests n the oil itself isnt quite managing it -- tilling in some neem seed meal in combination might be the next step.
Does neem oil work against Thrips (WF)? I have a HUGE problem with them because they are hard to get rid of especially once they are in the flower buds. I've used Organic Insecticidal soap which worked the best but had to be sprayed directly in the flower bud and on the leaves but it just ruined and scorched my plants. I tried a three in one pesticide as a last resort but it ruined my plants as well plus its not safe.
Anything I put I outside immediately gets attacked by thrips, ive had to pull all my plants out and trash them because of how much damage the caused. I want to start over but I am hesitant!
Anything I put I outside immediately gets attacked by thrips, ive had to pull all my plants out and trash them because of how much damage the caused. I want to start over but I am hesitant!
https://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/neemgen.html
Neem oil has been used for 100's of years as a fungicide, insecticide, and small amounts in food and cosmetics.
As a fungicide and insecticide it works best as a preventive.
It is an anti-feedant and given before aphids and scale populations explode, it has worked for me. Once the infestation is severe, I have not seen it work as well.
Most fungicides work best as preventives and neem is no different. It does work well as a preventive fungicide. So, do most horticultural oils as the oily coating repels water.
Any pesticide, organic or organophosphates are toxic. They have to be or they would not kill anything. Neem does not appear to be harmful to most animals if used in the correct mixture and at the right time and place.
Neem, like anything else can cause problems for if you have an allergy to any of its' components
Neem is an oil and if applied in the sun, like any of the other oils on a hot day (>80 degrees) can burn some plants.
Neem is an anti-feedant, so unless insects are smothered by the oil, or leaves are coated to prevent fungal infections, it needs to be eaten by the insects in quantity to affect them. Most insects are repelled by the taste.
It is generally agreed that neem does not affect foraging bees, but their is some evidence that there could be dose related effects on bee larvae who are fed pollen that have been sprayed with neem, and there is a suggestion though no proof that larvae of other beneficials, like lacewings, may be similarly affected.
Neem is slightly toxic to fish. Most things are.
Neem has been used to kill fleas and has caused some toxicity and deaths in cats that were probably dose related. Cats are sensitive because they are clean animals.
In conclusion: Neem is a good product that is generally safe if used in proper concentration at the right time.
Sprays should be applied on cooler, overcast days and not in direct sun to prevent burning of the plants. Neem works best as a preventive for fungal and insect infestations and is best used early.
To limit the effect on beneficial insects. 1. If the beneficial insects are around, don't spray, give them a chance to take care of the problem. Use water and hand picking instead. 2. If you still choose to spray avoid spraying plants in bloom to limit the effects on the bees. 3. Spray in the early morning or late evening when the beneficial insects are least active.
Use Advantage on the cats instead. Do not spray anything near ponds.
Use a test spray if you are using it for the first time to make sure the plants are not sensitive. Ferns and some other plants are very sensitive to many chemicals.
Make sure you take precautions to protect yourself when spraying: eye protection, long sleeves and plants and gloves. I use a disposable painter's suit and respirator fitted with a pesticide filter and safety glasses. Wash up thoroughly after using any chemical.
Neem oil has been used for 100's of years as a fungicide, insecticide, and small amounts in food and cosmetics.
As a fungicide and insecticide it works best as a preventive.
It is an anti-feedant and given before aphids and scale populations explode, it has worked for me. Once the infestation is severe, I have not seen it work as well.
Most fungicides work best as preventives and neem is no different. It does work well as a preventive fungicide. So, do most horticultural oils as the oily coating repels water.
Any pesticide, organic or organophosphates are toxic. They have to be or they would not kill anything. Neem does not appear to be harmful to most animals if used in the correct mixture and at the right time and place.
Neem, like anything else can cause problems for if you have an allergy to any of its' components
Neem is an oil and if applied in the sun, like any of the other oils on a hot day (>80 degrees) can burn some plants.
Neem is an anti-feedant, so unless insects are smothered by the oil, or leaves are coated to prevent fungal infections, it needs to be eaten by the insects in quantity to affect them. Most insects are repelled by the taste.
It is generally agreed that neem does not affect foraging bees, but their is some evidence that there could be dose related effects on bee larvae who are fed pollen that have been sprayed with neem, and there is a suggestion though no proof that larvae of other beneficials, like lacewings, may be similarly affected.
Neem is slightly toxic to fish. Most things are.
Neem has been used to kill fleas and has caused some toxicity and deaths in cats that were probably dose related. Cats are sensitive because they are clean animals.
In conclusion: Neem is a good product that is generally safe if used in proper concentration at the right time.
Sprays should be applied on cooler, overcast days and not in direct sun to prevent burning of the plants. Neem works best as a preventive for fungal and insect infestations and is best used early.
To limit the effect on beneficial insects. 1. If the beneficial insects are around, don't spray, give them a chance to take care of the problem. Use water and hand picking instead. 2. If you still choose to spray avoid spraying plants in bloom to limit the effects on the bees. 3. Spray in the early morning or late evening when the beneficial insects are least active.
Use Advantage on the cats instead. Do not spray anything near ponds.
Use a test spray if you are using it for the first time to make sure the plants are not sensitive. Ferns and some other plants are very sensitive to many chemicals.
Make sure you take precautions to protect yourself when spraying: eye protection, long sleeves and plants and gloves. I use a disposable painter's suit and respirator fitted with a pesticide filter and safety glasses. Wash up thoroughly after using any chemical.
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rawradisaurous
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sun May 11, 2014 1:17 pm
- Location: Central Florida, Zone 9b
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rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
Nothing you can spray on the outside, including bad poisons, works against the vine borer larvae which are protected inside the stem.
Here's a couple of previous threads about the SVB's. If you search on it you will find tons written here about them, because they are the worst scourge in the garden.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... hp?t=44778
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... hp?t=25636
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... hp?t=28475
You can look for the eggs. Squash vine borer eggs are laid singly on the stem near the base. As soon as the larvae hatch, they burrow into the stem:
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_2m3wGnWBkAk/S ... eggs+2.jpg
If you find orange-ish eggs laid in clusters on the under side of leaves, they are squash bugs, another virulent squash pest:
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yr8fuc0mJEo/T ... gsmall.JPG
Here's a couple of previous threads about the SVB's. If you search on it you will find tons written here about them, because they are the worst scourge in the garden.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... hp?t=44778
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... hp?t=25636
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... hp?t=28475
You can look for the eggs. Squash vine borer eggs are laid singly on the stem near the base. As soon as the larvae hatch, they burrow into the stem:
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_2m3wGnWBkAk/S ... eggs+2.jpg
If you find orange-ish eggs laid in clusters on the under side of leaves, they are squash bugs, another virulent squash pest:
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yr8fuc0mJEo/T ... gsmall.JPG
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rawradisaurous
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sun May 11, 2014 1:17 pm
- Location: Central Florida, Zone 9b