What can I do to help combat it?
Will I be able to get it gone totally?
Ok...
so I don't overhead water them.
I have my garden bed mulched
They are tied up.
I didn't plant them in the same place twice.
I purn the suckers
What could cause me to get it so I can try to prevent it next time?
Also I bought them from Bonnie could they have already been contaminated? They wasn't showing no signs that I know of when I got them.
I can get more pictures later today if needed
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- rainbowgardener
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Hi! I am in No. Georgia, so somewhat similar conditions.
Yes, septoria leaf spot. It sounds like you have done everything right and already know a lot about this. Yes, it is possible that they already had some of the fungus spores on them when you bought them. But I think septoria is pretty ubiquitous in rainy, humid climates. My tomato plants pretty much always have it by the end of the season.
Just keep pulling off affected leaves, especially the older ones, lower on the plant. You can spray the plant with some kind of fungicide. Organic fungicides include: hydrogen peroxide (straight out of the bottle which is a 3% solution), baking soda solution, diluted milk. Fungicides (all of them, including the bad chemical ones) work better preventively than as treatment for established disease, so the sooner you start the better. Only use one at a time, but you can rotate them, since it will need to be repeated every week or two. Be sure to spray the under sides of the leaves as well.
Unlike blight, IME tomato plants can keep surviving and producing with septoria for a long time as long as you keep up with it like this. By the end of the season they will be looking pretty ragged, with only leaves on top and bare stems below, but they will hang in!
Best wishes and let us know how it goes for you!
Yes, septoria leaf spot. It sounds like you have done everything right and already know a lot about this. Yes, it is possible that they already had some of the fungus spores on them when you bought them. But I think septoria is pretty ubiquitous in rainy, humid climates. My tomato plants pretty much always have it by the end of the season.
Just keep pulling off affected leaves, especially the older ones, lower on the plant. You can spray the plant with some kind of fungicide. Organic fungicides include: hydrogen peroxide (straight out of the bottle which is a 3% solution), baking soda solution, diluted milk. Fungicides (all of them, including the bad chemical ones) work better preventively than as treatment for established disease, so the sooner you start the better. Only use one at a time, but you can rotate them, since it will need to be repeated every week or two. Be sure to spray the under sides of the leaves as well.
Unlike blight, IME tomato plants can keep surviving and producing with septoria for a long time as long as you keep up with it like this. By the end of the season they will be looking pretty ragged, with only leaves on top and bare stems below, but they will hang in!
Best wishes and let us know how it goes for you!
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rainbowgardener wrote:You can spray the plant with some kind of fungicide. Organic fungicides include: hydrogen peroxide (straight out of the bottle which is a 3% solution), baking soda solution, diluted milk. Fungicides (all of them, including the bad chemical ones) work better preventively than as treatment for established disease, so the sooner you start the better.
Sorry it has taken so long to get back I get easily distracted some times.
I had actually been doing the baking soda as a preventative. 4 teaspoons to a gallon.
But the 1st time I done it I done four tablespoons(midread the directions) so when I noticed the spots I was just thinking I had burnt the leaves....
If I want to rotate with the hydrogen peroxide Are you saying I don't have to dilute it?
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