Broad mites are another tiny terror that can only be seen microscopically. They are very fond of peppers. Mites are usually identified by the damage they cause more than by actually seeing the culprit. Broad mite and cyclamen mite damage looks very similar.
1. Feeding is preferred on the youngest growths causing deformation, twisting, hardening and stunting of the terminal buds.
2 Leaves turn downward and sometimes are coppery or purplish
3 Internodes are shortened and there are more lateral buds. More flowers are aborted
4. Russetting of fruit. May be around the cap or in severe infestations the whole fruit may be covered with the hard scarred tissue.
https://extension.psu.edu/plants/vegetab ... vegetables
Mites are difficult to control without also killing beneficial insects.
Predatory mites feed on them but usually do not control them if their numbers are large.
What you can do.
1. Mite's saliva not only deform plants but they stunt them. If infestations are severe, it is unlikely that the plant will recover so the best course of action is sanitation and bag and burn all residues. Some plants can be cut back and if mites in the area are controlled, they may be able to grow back with healthy leaves. It is an option for long lived plants but probably not worth trying on short lived annuals.
2 Inspect and isolate sick plants from healthy ones
3. Scout often and treat when pest numbers are few. Scout plants in the area. Many pests have alternate hosts so all of the hosts need to be treated.
There are not many miticides available to homeowners and while other pesticides will work, they also kill off beneficial insects so may cause pest populations to rebound later.
â€¢Water the plant first (if it is dry) before spraying.
â€¢Never mix a chemical fungicide or pesticide with any of these homemade treatments, wait at least 10 days.
â€¢It is crucial to spray all pest controls and fertilizers very early in the morning or late in the evening.
â€¢Spray only when the temperature will remain below 85 degrees F for several hours after you spray.
â€¢Spray both sides of the leaves.
â€¢Test a small area of a plant first. Leave it for a couple of days to determine whether it is safe for the whole plant.
Start with the least toxic first: and wait a couple of weeks to see results. If you change tactics wait a couple of more weeks at least before you try something else.
1. Water. Use a forceful spray of water and blast the pests off the leaves. This will have to be done daily. Usually mites become a problem in the hot dusty days of summer and it takes a good long rain for them to go away.
2. Insecticidal soaps and oils smother insects.
In potted plants, mix up a 5 gallon bucket of soap or oil and dip the plants to ensure good coverage. If spraying make sure you thoroughly drench the undersides of the leaves. Adding 1/2 cup of alcohol to each quart of solution increases effectiveness.
3. Cornell University general formula (fungicide, miticide,pesticide)
â€¢2 tablespoons fine horticultural oil
â€¢1 tablespoon mild liquid dish soap (not detergent)
â€¢1 heaping tablespoon baking soda
â€¢1 gallon (4.5L) of water
â€¢1 tablespoon or the equivalent of 8-8-8 fish emulsion/liquid seaweed (make sure your product does not contain sulphur)
â€¢5-7 droplets of a liquid plant vitamin mixture
â€¢Bacillus thuringiensis var. Kurstaki (Bt), at the recommended concentration (controls caterpillars)
*(You can apply this spray ever 2 weeks but you will probably find you only need to spray once a month.)
*(Try to use this spray solution before disease symptoms develop or as soon as you notice a problem.)
4. Garlic and cayenne pepper are natural miticides. You could try this all purpose spray.
https://www.rodalesorganiclife.com/home/ ... most-pests
5. Sulfur can be used as miticide but cannot be used within 2 weeks before or after an oil and cannot be used in the heat of the day.
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/la ... o_Sulf.pdf
6. 3 in 1 spray. Contains sulfur and pyretrins. This does give good knock down, but pyrethrins are toxic to beneficial insects and other animals, so rebound may be a problem if you do not get thorough coverage.
7. Sevin works on several insects but it has a higher toxicity and is toxic to beneficial insects.
Follow label instructions
8. Bayer insect, disease, and mite control contains imodicloprid. This is a systemic product and definitely very toxic to bees and beneficial insects. This product can last up to a year so I would use a shorter acting systemic like Rose Care which also contains imodicloprid but only lasts about 8 weeks. It is useful for mite control on ornamentals. Disbud plants to minimize damage to bees and other nectar feeding insects. Always read and follow label directions. Use only as a last resort.
9. There is a new product sucrashield that is made with honey and cane sugar. It works by attracting beneficial insects. I haven't tried it.
Happy gardening in Hawaii. Gardens are where people grow.