Yes, I am aware that it is not "organic pest control", but I looked for another pest control sub-forum and could not find one here.
Right now my garden is empty except for weeds. We don't plow it up until March, and then once more in April right before planting. I had a large fire ant colony and used spectracide granular just now, as that is my go-to ant killer for the lawn. It was on the edge of my garden where I plant my watermelons to run downhill. Will this be unsafe to eat watermelons from that area? Should I dig up all of the treated dirt in that area and remove prior to plowing/planting?
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There may be more recent information, but the related topics list at the bottom of the page has a result from 2009 with similar concerns. This is the link for the thread: https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... =4&t=12736
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Thanks applestar, I googled after I posted and that thread was the first result. I'm going to dig up the area tomorrow evening, and will use boiling water from here out on ant colonies inside the garden.applestar wrote:There may be more recent information, but the related topics list at the bottom of the page has a result from 2009 with similar concerns. This is the link for the thread: https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... =4&t=12736
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Spinosad was safe to use and safe for the vegetables, but you have to be careful, resistance can build up to spinosad so it is not recommended to be used more than twice a year. It needs to be alternated with other controls.
You can use other baits on the perimeter of the garden as a barrier. All of the ant killers can potentially harm bees so it is best to use these products when the bees are not actively foraging, and plants are not flowering.
Spectracide was not approved for use in the garden, but was o.k. to use as a barrier.
The label is the law where chemicals are concerned. Make sure you follow the label directions and safety precautions. The plants need to be listed on the label. The label should also contain information about how long it lasts. There is usually a contact number on the product so you can contact the company and ask specific questions. Sometimes it is helpful, sometimes not.
https://fireant.tamu.edu/files/2014/03/ENTO_015.pdf
https://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/p ... c1263.html
https://www.littlefireants.com/lfa%20fac ... et%202.pdf
You can use other baits on the perimeter of the garden as a barrier. All of the ant killers can potentially harm bees so it is best to use these products when the bees are not actively foraging, and plants are not flowering.
Spectracide was not approved for use in the garden, but was o.k. to use as a barrier.
The label is the law where chemicals are concerned. Make sure you follow the label directions and safety precautions. The plants need to be listed on the label. The label should also contain information about how long it lasts. There is usually a contact number on the product so you can contact the company and ask specific questions. Sometimes it is helpful, sometimes not.
https://fireant.tamu.edu/files/2014/03/ENTO_015.pdf
https://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/p ... c1263.html
https://www.littlefireants.com/lfa%20fac ... et%202.pdf
I prefer to use baits myself. You do have to get the right bait for the ants. Some ants are sweet eating and terro bait works fine. They sell and outdoor bait which stays in its container, so I have no problem using it. Grease eating ants on the other hand need a different kind of bait which I can't find as easily so I have to make it. I use butter container and make entrance holes for the ants to find the bait and set out the traps. The HAL lab peanut butter and oil bait is a bait for grease eating ants. The hardest thing to find is the xanthum gum. If you can find stores that sell supplies to make your own ice cream, or restaurant suppliers, otherwise online.
If you are going to bait you cannot use a contact killer like Raid. The idea with a bait is not to kill the workers but to kill the queen(s). The workers have to live long enough to find the bait and take it back to the nest and feed it to the queen. Without a queen the workers eventually will die but it can take a couple of months.
If you are going to bait you cannot use a contact killer like Raid. The idea with a bait is not to kill the workers but to kill the queen(s). The workers have to live long enough to find the bait and take it back to the nest and feed it to the queen. Without a queen the workers eventually will die but it can take a couple of months.
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I'll have to second this one.catgrass wrote:Use Amdro instead of spectracide. It is a bait, and ingested by the ants. Boiling water is just gonna make them move-Heck, all ant poisons don't kill them all-they just move.
Read and follow the label instructions. It's important, this is a food ants eat. Store it under the same conditions you would store any grain product.
Compare the MSDS to other chemical controls. Amdro is a lot safer than most. https://www.pestcontrol.basf.com.au/asse ... AU-SDS.pdf
I highly recommend broadcast treatment of the entire yard. Mound treatment always misses new colonies.
Good luck.