Thanks bird lover. The lowest layer in my pots is indeed a drainy one with coir and small pieces of brick to help drain the water out of the bottom. Might be I need to add more coir, peat and vermicompost to make it more "drainy". Also about the plastic pots, I might have to drill a few tiny holes in the pots. I had to go for plastic pots because these days its extremely difficult to find clay pots here in India. We only get cement/concrete pots, which I don't think are a good option.
As Krinix also mentioned, it might be good to try one pot with a soilless mix or a mix with little soil in it. Hope that works out well!
Regards,
Deepak
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deepak4you
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HoneyBerry
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I forgot to mention that pot size is also very important. If the pot is too small for the plant, it won't perform well. This is the main reason why I prefer ground gardening. Pots restrict the area that the roots have to grow in and many plants will eventually become root bound if grown in a pot. Large clay pots are nice but they are expensive and heavy to move. The dirt in the pots wiil eventually become stale and depleted and will need to be replaced once in a while to refresh it. So potted plants require maintenance. And they are more sensitive to freezing temperatures because they are above the ground. I have not had good experiences especially with small pots. Currently I have only 2 medium sized pots for decorative purposes. I plant petunias in them. They have small roots and do fine in the pots. I replace the potting soil and buy new petunias for these pots each spring.
Soil-less media doesn't affect plant growth, as long as it has enough of nutrients like a rich compost. Infact my veggies like Cucumbers, peppers and Toms absolutely go crazy with this mix. Coco peat or vermicultie on their own have absolutely nothing to support a plant, but mixing it with compost or vermi compost will make it a good medium. The mix will be loose, it would never compact over many waterings, the water will drain easily.
https://www.youtube.com/user/CaliforniaGardening/videos
This guy grows most of his food from soilless media. Keep its simple with coco peat and Rich vermi compost in 1:1 ration.
Most of the west use soil-less media to grow in containers and even for raised bed. Look it up and youll know, what I am talking about. But its a trend that's catching up in India too.
And one important thing, gardening is a slow learning experience, not every gardener would have solutions to his or your issues. It comes with trying out a lot, be it with seeds, the media, the watering. When you care for your plants, like we all do, you will always find a way somehow, to make sure the plants are happy. loosing plants to diseases and pests can give us some sleepless nights. But you'll get better. I have been gardening for almost 10 years now, and yet take my torch out to inspect them at the dead of the night.
Have fun....
https://www.youtube.com/user/CaliforniaGardening/videos
This guy grows most of his food from soilless media. Keep its simple with coco peat and Rich vermi compost in 1:1 ration.
Most of the west use soil-less media to grow in containers and even for raised bed. Look it up and youll know, what I am talking about. But its a trend that's catching up in India too.
And one important thing, gardening is a slow learning experience, not every gardener would have solutions to his or your issues. It comes with trying out a lot, be it with seeds, the media, the watering. When you care for your plants, like we all do, you will always find a way somehow, to make sure the plants are happy. loosing plants to diseases and pests can give us some sleepless nights. But you'll get better. I have been gardening for almost 10 years now, and yet take my torch out to inspect them at the dead of the night.
Have fun....
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deepak4you
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HoneyBerry
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I just want to give you some info about symptoms associated with pottasium deficiency and nitrogen deficiency, which are typical deficiencies for red doil.
This is from Wikipedia:
"Typical symptoms of potassium deficiency in plants include brown scorching and curling of leaf tips as well as chlorosis (yellowing) between leaf veins. Purple spots may also appear on the leaf undersides. Plant growth, root development, and seed and fruit development are usually reduced in potassium-deficient plants. Often, potassium deficiency symptoms first appear on older (lower) leaves because potassium is a mobile nutrient, meaning that a plant can allocate potassium to younger leaves when it is K deficient.[3] Deficient plants may be more prone to frost damage and disease, and their symptoms can often be confused with wind scorch or drought."
This is also from Wikipedia:
"The visual symptoms of nitrogen deficiency include poor plant growth, and leaves that are pale green or yellow because they are unable to make sufficient chlorophyll. Leaves in this state are said to be chlorotic."
This is from Wikipedia:
"Typical symptoms of potassium deficiency in plants include brown scorching and curling of leaf tips as well as chlorosis (yellowing) between leaf veins. Purple spots may also appear on the leaf undersides. Plant growth, root development, and seed and fruit development are usually reduced in potassium-deficient plants. Often, potassium deficiency symptoms first appear on older (lower) leaves because potassium is a mobile nutrient, meaning that a plant can allocate potassium to younger leaves when it is K deficient.[3] Deficient plants may be more prone to frost damage and disease, and their symptoms can often be confused with wind scorch or drought."
This is also from Wikipedia:
"The visual symptoms of nitrogen deficiency include poor plant growth, and leaves that are pale green or yellow because they are unable to make sufficient chlorophyll. Leaves in this state are said to be chlorotic."
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applestar
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You are getting some good info. Sometimes conflicting, but that is typical when you ask a bunch of gardeners for advice. 
I wonder if you are ready for my kind of random gardening mania?
...when trying anything different, I would only try it on a few but not all, and if I have more than one of a kind of a plant, try different techniques on different ones, using what I think would most likely work on the favorite, and least stressful on the most stressed (diseased, least infested, loosing leaves, etc.) -- strong fertilizer, pruning, and repotting (and full sun) are stressful.
In addition to what I've already mentioned regarding aggregate texture of the container soil, I believe in relying on healthy soilfoodweb even in containers and not so much on wiping out the living organisms. There are ALWAYS good organisms and bad. Even if you start with a clean slate, nature abhors vacuum, as they say.
I like using commercially available from reputable sources (manufacturers as well as sellers who will store them properly), but mostly I like to make my own using the commercial sources to add biodiversity and as inoculant. Bokashi fermenting and and vermicomposting are good substitute for backyard composting of kitchen scraps and yard waste.
I put earthworms and red wigglers in every container and they also freely move from the garden into and out of the containers since I put them on the ground and I DO NOT put rubble in the bottom of the containers "for drainage" which would hinder their migration. "Rubble in the bottom for drainage" is considered largely a myth, though I now believe there is a way to do this more effectively -- I think it was a technique used in a specific way that became misinformed. Also badly draining/easily compacting soilmix will still become compacted above the rubble and become clogged.
I'm convinced adding aerating side vent holes in plastic containers is effective and am starting to put this to practice with all of my containers. (See photos below)
I use AACT (actively aerated compost tea) -- occasionally following the clean equipment protocol, but mostly just adding ingredients and endlessly aerating the bucket. My bucket currently contains stinging nettles and willow leaves and chopped branches. I sometimes add a scoop of organic fertilizer to quick culture the fungal and bacterial microbes. I water with UCG (used coffee grounds) soaked in rain water and spray with milk and yogurt whey diluted 1:8 and water with spoiled milk diluted to 1:20 or so. While these plants are indoors for the winter, I water them with diluted leftover beverages like coffee, tea, juice, rinse water of finished beverage containers.
I also tend not to use any pesticides. But this is difficult indoors where there are no alternatives like specialized beneficial predators. I also don't use fungicides and I CAN use milk spray and reduce humidity better indoors.
I'll attach a collage -- random photos of some of my container plants I took this morning:
I wonder if you are ready for my kind of random gardening mania?
...when trying anything different, I would only try it on a few but not all, and if I have more than one of a kind of a plant, try different techniques on different ones, using what I think would most likely work on the favorite, and least stressful on the most stressed (diseased, least infested, loosing leaves, etc.) -- strong fertilizer, pruning, and repotting (and full sun) are stressful.
In addition to what I've already mentioned regarding aggregate texture of the container soil, I believe in relying on healthy soilfoodweb even in containers and not so much on wiping out the living organisms. There are ALWAYS good organisms and bad. Even if you start with a clean slate, nature abhors vacuum, as they say.
I like using commercially available from reputable sources (manufacturers as well as sellers who will store them properly), but mostly I like to make my own using the commercial sources to add biodiversity and as inoculant. Bokashi fermenting and and vermicomposting are good substitute for backyard composting of kitchen scraps and yard waste.
I put earthworms and red wigglers in every container and they also freely move from the garden into and out of the containers since I put them on the ground and I DO NOT put rubble in the bottom of the containers "for drainage" which would hinder their migration. "Rubble in the bottom for drainage" is considered largely a myth, though I now believe there is a way to do this more effectively -- I think it was a technique used in a specific way that became misinformed. Also badly draining/easily compacting soilmix will still become compacted above the rubble and become clogged.
I'm convinced adding aerating side vent holes in plastic containers is effective and am starting to put this to practice with all of my containers. (See photos below)
I use AACT (actively aerated compost tea) -- occasionally following the clean equipment protocol, but mostly just adding ingredients and endlessly aerating the bucket. My bucket currently contains stinging nettles and willow leaves and chopped branches. I sometimes add a scoop of organic fertilizer to quick culture the fungal and bacterial microbes. I water with UCG (used coffee grounds) soaked in rain water and spray with milk and yogurt whey diluted 1:8 and water with spoiled milk diluted to 1:20 or so. While these plants are indoors for the winter, I water them with diluted leftover beverages like coffee, tea, juice, rinse water of finished beverage containers.
I also tend not to use any pesticides. But this is difficult indoors where there are no alternatives like specialized beneficial predators. I also don't use fungicides and I CAN use milk spray and reduce humidity better indoors.
I'll attach a collage -- random photos of some of my container plants I took this morning:
- Attachments
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deepak4you
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That is a hell lot of info @Applestar! Having got some direction and few options to try out, I'll go check with the garden center if they have potash or other Potassium based fertiliser. To cover up for Nitrogen, I think a teaspoon of Urea in 5L of water should be good for all plants? I will also get a sack of peat and vermicompost each and try to repot one of the plants in a soilless mix. That should give me some results before the monsoon ends and I can take it from there.
Goodness me. I need to read all the replies again to soak in all the information that has been shared!
Endless thanks for this help
Regards,
Deepak
Goodness me. I need to read all the replies again to soak in all the information that has been shared!
Endless thanks for this help Regards,
Deepak
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deepak4you
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Yes I will, but for now I'm trying to narrow down on the source of the problem - whether it is soil nutrient deficiency, soil disease or something else. I have tried extremely low amounts of the fertiliser (one spoon in 20 liters bucket) to see how the plants react. I'm searching for cow dung manure, but difficult to get in rainy season. As soon as I get the same, will try that too and update.
Regards,
Deepak
Regards,
Deepak
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ElizabethB
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DITTO all.
Soil, soil, soil issues. Soil that works well in ground based gardens will not work in your containers. You really need an all purpose potting soil. If you do not have access to that then you need to make your own. 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat, 1/3 horticultural vermiculite.
Your pots are probably too small. Pot up.
Your pots MUST have good drainage. Since your plants are under cover for the monsoon season you have to water regularly and deeply. No pot saucers.
Most of your plants are green foliage ornamentals. Feed them with a high nitrogen, water soluble fertilizer every 2 or 3 months. Read and follow the label directions.
Your roses are another issue. You need a pot large enough to support your plant. You need to use a water soluble "Bloom Booster". High P in the NPK.
Do not randomly treat with pesticides. Give your plants larger pots, better soil and proper growing conditions. See what happens.
Good luck
Soil, soil, soil issues. Soil that works well in ground based gardens will not work in your containers. You really need an all purpose potting soil. If you do not have access to that then you need to make your own. 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat, 1/3 horticultural vermiculite.
Your pots are probably too small. Pot up.
Your pots MUST have good drainage. Since your plants are under cover for the monsoon season you have to water regularly and deeply. No pot saucers.
Most of your plants are green foliage ornamentals. Feed them with a high nitrogen, water soluble fertilizer every 2 or 3 months. Read and follow the label directions.
Your roses are another issue. You need a pot large enough to support your plant. You need to use a water soluble "Bloom Booster". High P in the NPK.
Do not randomly treat with pesticides. Give your plants larger pots, better soil and proper growing conditions. See what happens.
Good luck
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deepak4you
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Hi,
Update from my side. Monsoon has officially been declared over and my plants have started to get some new life again. After having added very small quantities of urea and potash to my soil, I am now waiting for the new growth to grow bigger and see if the problem still exists. Will keep posted in the coming weeks.
Regards,
Deepak
Update from my side. Monsoon has officially been declared over and my plants have started to get some new life again. After having added very small quantities of urea and potash to my soil, I am now waiting for the new growth to grow bigger and see if the problem still exists. Will keep posted in the coming weeks.
Regards,
Deepak
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rainbowgardener
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depak, I read through this thread again and noticed this:
"The lowest layer in my pots is indeed a drainy one with coir and small pieces of brick to help drain the water out of the bottom. Might be I need to add more coir, peat and vermicompost to make it more "drainy". Also about the plastic pots, I might have to drill a few tiny holes in the pots."
To start with coir, peat, and worm castings are all things that HOLD water, and would make drainage worse.
Second, although for years people used to put pieces of broken clay pots, brick, rock, etc in the bottom of containers "to improve drainage," that was always a myth. Having soil then brick or whatever, creates a barrier that the water does not cross until the soil is completely saturated:
Just fill your pots with good potting soil.
And yes, pots should have LOTS of holes, not tiny. Plants DIE in pots without holes:
https://www.glassblower.info/pot-melt-po ... ot-512.JPG
better is to have holes in the sides as well.
"The lowest layer in my pots is indeed a drainy one with coir and small pieces of brick to help drain the water out of the bottom. Might be I need to add more coir, peat and vermicompost to make it more "drainy". Also about the plastic pots, I might have to drill a few tiny holes in the pots."
To start with coir, peat, and worm castings are all things that HOLD water, and would make drainage worse.
Second, although for years people used to put pieces of broken clay pots, brick, rock, etc in the bottom of containers "to improve drainage," that was always a myth. Having soil then brick or whatever, creates a barrier that the water does not cross until the soil is completely saturated:
https://www.gardenmyths.com/gravel-pot-drainage/When water reaches the interface between two different types of soil – it stops moving. It is hard to believe, but in the above example, the water will accumulate in the soil and stay there. The gravel will be dry, and the soil will be saturated.
Let’s have a closer look at this. When water is added to the soil, it is absorbed by the soil particles. It fills the small holes between things like clay particles, and gets absorbed by the humus (organic mater) in the soil. As more water is added it starts filling the air spaces between soil particles. This water flows fairly freely to the bottom of the soil and then stops moving. Add more water and you reach a point where the soil can’t hold more water, but it still does not flow into the gravel. If more water is added the soil can’t hold any more and excess water runs into the gravel.
Plant roots need both air and water. The ideal soil has about 25% water and 25% air in it. If the air is replaced with water the roots of most plants die.
In addition to creating a soil with less air, the gravel will also reduce the amount of soil in the pot. That is not good for roots either.
Just fill your pots with good potting soil.
And yes, pots should have LOTS of holes, not tiny. Plants DIE in pots without holes:
https://www.glassblower.info/pot-melt-po ... ot-512.JPG
better is to have holes in the sides as well.
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deepak4you
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So much knowledge and information out there! The more I learn, the more I realise how little I know. Thanks a ton!
An update from my side. Now that monsoons have pretty much ended and the Sun is out, some of my plants have revived. I have made holes in all the pots. I have given two very dilute doses of Urea and Potash to all my plants. Most of them are doing quite well.
The Jasmine (Mogra) has recovered quite well and I don't see any browning of leaves as yet. All the new leaves look to be green.
The roses seem to be recovering as well, but seem to be a bit slow. The new leaves seem to be ok, but they are still small and not sure if they will meet the same fate as before. So will keep an eye on them.
Basil, Passiflora are also doing fine.
Will post an update soon.
Regards,
Deepak
The more I learn, the more I realise how little I know. Thanks a ton!An update from my side. Now that monsoons have pretty much ended and the Sun is out, some of my plants have revived. I have made holes in all the pots. I have given two very dilute doses of Urea and Potash to all my plants. Most of them are doing quite well.
The Jasmine (Mogra) has recovered quite well and I don't see any browning of leaves as yet. All the new leaves look to be green.
The roses seem to be recovering as well, but seem to be a bit slow. The new leaves seem to be ok, but they are still small and not sure if they will meet the same fate as before. So will keep an eye on them.
Basil, Passiflora are also doing fine.
Will post an update soon.
Regards,
Deepak
I suggest you talk to the old gardener and ask for his help. Gardeners are usually more than happy to share their knowledge with people who appreciate it. He can probably tell you the best solution for your planting mix and he will know where to source the ingredients. He can probably also check to see if the problem is with watering or drainage issues. It may even be because of the location and the plants are burning from too much sun.
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deepak4you
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An update from my side. All my plants have recovered well. No leaves drying, no brown borders nothing any more. Here is what all I did:
1. "Ploughed" and aired the soil in the pots
2. Added compost (vermicompost and cow manure) to the pot soil
3. Made four holes on each pot on the sides
I've been watering the plants once every 3 days for now (since its winters and there is no direct sun on the pots) and it has been going very well.
Thanks a million to everybody for their inputs. Now my miniature garden looks really pretty and smells beautiful with the blossoms!
Regards,
Deepak
1. "Ploughed" and aired the soil in the pots
2. Added compost (vermicompost and cow manure) to the pot soil
3. Made four holes on each pot on the sides
I've been watering the plants once every 3 days for now (since its winters and there is no direct sun on the pots) and it has been going very well.
Thanks a million to everybody for their inputs. Now my miniature garden looks really pretty and smells beautiful with the blossoms!
Regards,
Deepak