I don't know much about oleander, since it doesn't grow where I am, but I looked it up for you. It sounds like you are talking about oleander leaf scorch:
https://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7480.html
From the article:
Oleander leaf scorch is a disease found mainly in southern California.
Your intro says you are in SoCal. [incidentally please put your location in your profile so it will show, so we don't have to keep going back to your intro to find it]
Leaves on one or more branches may yellow and begin to droop; soon the margins of the leaves turn a deeper yellow or brown, and the leaves eventually die. As the disease progresses, more branches of the plant are affected and the plant dies. yellowing of leaves progresses from the tip or margins of leaves inward.
It is a bacterial disease, spread from plant to plant by leafhopper insects, particularly sharpshooter leafhoppers.
The news does not sound good
There is no known cure for oleander leaf scorch. Pruning out the part of the plant showing symptoms may help the appearance of the oleander tree or shrub but will not save the plant. The bacteria by then have already moved throughout the plant via the xylem, and limbs that show symptoms are only the first to become affected. Research indicates that some cultivars of oleander may express symptoms to lesser degrees than others and may live longer than other varieties when infected.
Because of the year-round abundance of the glassy-winged sharpshooter, currently available insecticides are not effective in stopping the spread of the disease. The best management may be early removal of plants infected with the oleander leaf scorch bacteria to reduce the source of inoculum, but there are no experimental data to validate this method.
I had not heard of this before. It is very sad. I think of all the miles and miles of oleander up I-5 and other freeways. I wonder if they are all doomed. The article says this is
another newly introduced disease that is spreading all over the place and will not stay limited to SoCal. Pity all the creatures of the earth over whom [some say] we were given dominion.
Given the doomful sound of all this, it is hard to make any suggestions for you. I would get rid of any diseased bushes immediately to try to protect your remaining ones.
Here's an article about natural enemies of leafhoppers:
https://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/C302/m30 ... enemy.html
It is about the grape leafhopper, but I'm sure it is similar for others.
This article is about your particular sharpshooter leafhopper:
https://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/C302/m30 ... enemy.html
If you scroll down near the bottom, past a bunch of really ugly photos, to the part about Natural Enemies it says:
The natural enemies of sharpshooters include predatory insects such as mantids and dragonflies. Free living and snare-building spiders also capture and eat sharpshooters. In Florida, anoles have been observed eating sharpshooters. Small parasitic wasps in the genus Gonatocerus are important natural enemies of sharpshooters because they attack the egg stage of several species
Mantids are praying mantises. Praying mantises and ladybugs can be ordered on line. Trichogamma wasps are one variety of the parasitic wasps, genus gonatocerus, mentioned. They can also be ordered:
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/tr ... OgodDAkAnw
I have found in my garden that parasitic wasps are very effective in controlling pests. To attract them to your garden, keep sources of moisture around, like shallow pans with rocks in them so the wasp has a place to land without drowning. Grow flowers that have nectar in tiny florets like alyssum, cilantro and other herbs from the dill family, and composite flowers such as daisies and asters, chamomile, sedum, wild grape.
Another possibility for controlling the leafhoppers that spread the disease, is to spray your plants [the remaining ones, after you have removed the unhealthy ones] with Neem oil. Neem oil kills in two way - directly if it is sprayed directly on the insect and by ingestion, when leaf eaters ingest it. The topical method will kill any insect it is sprayed on, so you want to be sure that you spray late in the evening after honeybees have gone home and don't broadcast the spray, get it directly on your leaves. After it is dried on the leaves, it will be harmful only to leaf eaters that ingest it and not to any beneficial insects. I don't usually suggest preventative spraying of anything, but in this case, it seems really important to protect your remaining oleander from the bacteria carrying leafhoppers.
Good luck. Hope some of this is helpful and you are able to save some of your oleander!