Actually I don't know any local gardeners really... I'd have to find a way to get in touch.
My question was, can the pollution be bad enough that it affects the algae? Because technically there are sea ports all around it and the beach gets used for partying sometimes so I wouldn't want to know what ends up there.. lol
I'll need to find a way to contact local gardeners
Hello All,
I have just started composting this week and I was wondering how long one has to compost till they can actually use the composted material in the garden?
Thanks
Happy Gardening All,
-Kristina K,
[url]https://www.urbanfarmwife.blogspot.com[/url]
I have just started composting this week and I was wondering how long one has to compost till they can actually use the composted material in the garden?
Thanks
Happy Gardening All,
-Kristina K,
[url]https://www.urbanfarmwife.blogspot.com[/url]
Last edited by KKacan on Thu Jun 16, 2011 7:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
I don't know what you mean by "compost for till." If that means to use your compost to till into the garden, how is that different from using it in the garden?
But anyway how long until you have finished compost, which I guess is your question, is quite variable. It depends on what you compost (some things take a lot longer to compost than others and the mixture makes a difference too, how much green to brown, etc), how you compost (how often you turn, how often you water, how fine or coarse your material is), weather (compost pile in sun or not, how warm is it out) etc.
But I will say that for me, without turning much, in warm weather, keeping my pile moist, I will have some finished compost at the bottom of the pile in three months, even less in good conditions. In the winter, my pile just sits there, with me adding stuff to the top, from Oct to March (which is our frost dates) doing little. In March when it unfreezes, I turn it over and there's a lot of finished compost at the bottom.
Don't know if this helps with your question or not.
But anyway how long until you have finished compost, which I guess is your question, is quite variable. It depends on what you compost (some things take a lot longer to compost than others and the mixture makes a difference too, how much green to brown, etc), how you compost (how often you turn, how often you water, how fine or coarse your material is), weather (compost pile in sun or not, how warm is it out) etc.
But I will say that for me, without turning much, in warm weather, keeping my pile moist, I will have some finished compost at the bottom of the pile in three months, even less in good conditions. In the winter, my pile just sits there, with me adding stuff to the top, from Oct to March (which is our frost dates) doing little. In March when it unfreezes, I turn it over and there's a lot of finished compost at the bottom.
Don't know if this helps with your question or not.
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:45 pm
- Location: Virginia
Nice post TZ-OH6. As mentioned on the above list of greens and browns my browns are sawdust, brown paper bags. toilet paper core, paper towel core, bottom (unprinted) half of paper egg carton [shredded],
leaves, corn stalks and cobs, shredded black and white newspaper [not the slick papered advertisements or color print], crushed eggshell, cereal boxes, ashes from wood, paper and charcoal, wood chip, string and cotton thread, feathers, old natural fiber clothes, straw
My greens to name a few are shredded Tagasaste, stinging nettle’s, comfrey, shredded succulent’s, shredded pampas grass, shredded Phalaris grass, fruit tree pruning’s, kitchen scraps, grass clippings, corn husks, tea bags, old flowers, spent bedding plants, fruit scraps, annual weeds, hay, Eucalyptus leaves(which are very high in carbon and very low in nitrogen, I think, I have to look into it sum more)
, and road kill.
leaves, corn stalks and cobs, shredded black and white newspaper [not the slick papered advertisements or color print], crushed eggshell, cereal boxes, ashes from wood, paper and charcoal, wood chip, string and cotton thread, feathers, old natural fiber clothes, straw
My greens to name a few are shredded Tagasaste, stinging nettle’s, comfrey, shredded succulent’s, shredded pampas grass, shredded Phalaris grass, fruit tree pruning’s, kitchen scraps, grass clippings, corn husks, tea bags, old flowers, spent bedding plants, fruit scraps, annual weeds, hay, Eucalyptus leaves(which are very high in carbon and very low in nitrogen, I think, I have to look into it sum more)
, and road kill.
Last edited by nickolas on Sat Jul 30, 2011 1:23 am, edited 3 times in total.
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
Yes, dead animals. But I have stop from adding road kill to my compost piles. I am only going to use them in the methane digester from now on because I can get a lot of methane from them, and the byproduct of the methane digester is very black humus.rainbowgardener wrote:road kill? You mean like dead animals?
Not usually considered to be a good thing to have meat rotting in your compost pile...
all the rest sounds good and like a nice diverse mix
I Would have answered sooner but I have been in the garden making 10 cubic metres of compost for my new pumpkin bed in time for spring sowing time.
Hey all,
I'm brand new to this forum. First-time gardener as well. Just read through all the entries in this post and found it very informative. The only thing that was surprising to me was the suggestions to put dryer lint in the compost. I would have never thought of that.
Anyway, just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed to this post.
Looking forward to becoming part of this "community" and discussing gardening with you all for a long time.
Z
I'm brand new to this forum. First-time gardener as well. Just read through all the entries in this post and found it very informative. The only thing that was surprising to me was the suggestions to put dryer lint in the compost. I would have never thought of that.
Anyway, just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed to this post.
Looking forward to becoming part of this "community" and discussing gardening with you all for a long time.
Z
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
Welcome to the Forum! Re the dryer lint, I think it depends on what kind of textiles you dry mostly. If it is mainly synthetics, your dryer lint won't be very compostable. I found that out the time I decided to try composting the stuff from my vacuum cleaner bag (thinking about dust and dirt). But my red carpet is some kind of synthetic. I found red carpet fibers all over my yard for years after that. Very identifiable!
- PunkRotten
- Greener Thumb
- Posts: 1989
- Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2011 8:48 pm
- Location: Monterey, CA.
I have been adding paper towel and toilet paper cores to my pile. ONe thing I noticed is they all have this type of glue on them. Is this glue fine to add to a compost?
Also, cereal boxes, any cereal boxes? I can compost a box of Cheerios even with all the color on it? How about some black and white newspaper with some color? Thx
Also, cereal boxes, any cereal boxes? I can compost a box of Cheerios even with all the color on it? How about some black and white newspaper with some color? Thx
- stylemichelle21
- Full Member
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2011 9:08 am
- OROZCONLECHE
- Green Thumb
- Posts: 560
- Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 12:49 am
- Location: So California -Ontario-
Alfalfa Hay: 2.45/05/2.1
Apple Fruit: 0.05/0.02/0.1
Apple Leaves: 1.0/0.15/0.4
Apple Pomace: 0.2/0.02/0.15
Apple skins(ash) : 0/3.0/11/74
Banana Residues (ash): 1.75/0.75/0.5
Barley (grain): 0/0/0.5
Barley (straw): 0/0/1.0
Basalt Rock: 0/0/1.5
Bat Guano: 5.0-8.0/4.0-5.0/1.0
Beans, garden(seed and hull): 0.25/0.08/03
Beet Wastes: 0.4/0.4/0.7-4.1
Blood meal: 15.0/0/0
Bone Black: 1.5/0/0
Bonemeal (raw): 3.3-4.1/21.0/0.2
Bonemeal (steamed): 1.6-2.5/21.0/0.2
Brewery Wastes (wet): 1.0/0.5/0.05
Buckwheat straw: 0/0/2.0
Cantaloupe Rinds (ash): 0/9.77/12.0
Castor pomace: 4.0-6.6/1.0-2.0/1.0-2.0
Cattail reeds and water lily stems: 2.0/0.8/3.4
Cattail Seed: 0.98/0.25/0.1
Cattle Manure (fresh): 0.29/0.25/0.1
Cherry Leaves: 0.6/0/0.7
Chicken Manure (fresh): 1.6/1.0-1.5/0.6-1.0
Clover: 2/0/0/0 (also contains calcium)
Cocoa Shell Dust: 1.0/1.5/1.7
Coffee Grounds: 2.0/0.36/0.67
Corn (grain): 1.65/0.65/0.4
Corn (green forage): 0.4/0.13/0.33
Corn cobs: 0/0/2.0
Corn Silage: 0.42/0/0
Cornstalks: 0.75/0/0.8
Cottonseed hulls (ash): 0/8.7/23.9
Cottonseed Meal: 7.0/2.0-3.0/1.8
Cotton Wastes (factory): 1.32/0.45/0.36
Cowpea Hay: 3.0/0/2.3
Cowpeas (green forage): 0.45/0.12/0.45
Cowpeas (seed): 3.1/1.0/1.2
Crabgrass (green): 0.66/0.19/0.71
Crabs (dried, ground): 10.0/0/0
Crabs (fresh): 5.0/3.6/0.2
Cucumber Skins (ash): 0/11.28/27.2
Dried Blood: 10.0-14.0/1.0-5.0/0
Duck Manure (fresh): 1.12/1.44/0.6
Eggs: 2.25/0.4/0.15
Eggshells: 1.19/0.38/0.14
Feathers: 15.3/0/0
Felt Wastes: 14.0/0/1.0
Field Beans (seed): 4.0/1.2/1.3
Feild Beans (shells): 1.7/0.3/1.3
Fish (dried, ground): 8.0/7.0/0
Fish Scraps (fresh): 6.5/3.75/0
Gluten Meal: 6.4/0/0
Granite Dust: 0/0/3.0-5.5
Grapefruit Skins (ash): 0/3.6/30.6
Grape Leaves: 0.45/0.1/0.4
Grape Pomace: 1.0/0.07/0.3
Grass (imature): 1.0/0/1.2
Greensand: 0/1.5/7.0
Hair: 14/0/0/0
Hoof and Horn Meal: 12.5/2.0/0
Horse Manure (fresh): 0.44/0.35/0.3
Incinerator Ash: 0.24/5.15/2.33
Jellyfish (dried): 4.6/0/0
Kentucky Bluegrass (green): 0.66/0.19/0.71
Kentucky Bluegrass (hay): 1.2/0.4/2.0
Leather Dust: 11.0/0/0
Lemon Culls: 0.15/0.06/0.26
Lemon Skins (ash): 06.33/1.0
Lobster Refuse: 4.5/3.5/0
Milk: 0.5/0.3/0.18
Millet Hay: 1.2/0/3.2
Molasses Residue: 0.7/0/5.32
Molasses Waste: 0/0/3.0-4.0
Mud (fresh water): 1.37/0.26/0.22
Mud (harbour): 0.99/0.77/0.05
Mud (salt): 0.4.0/0
Mussels: 1.0/0.12/0.13
Nutshells: 2.5/0/0
Oak Leaves: 0.8/0.35/0.2
Oats (grain): 2.0/0.8/0.6
Oats (green fodder): 0.49/0/0
Oat straw: 0/0/1.5
Olive Pomace: 1.15/0.78/1.3
Orange Culls: 0.2/0.13/0.21
Orange Skins: 0/3.0/27.0
Oyster Shells: 0.36/0/0
Peach Leaves: 0.9/0.15/0.6
Pea forage: 1.5-2.5/0/1.4
Peanuts (seed/kernals): 3.6/0.7/0.45
Peanut Shells: 3.6/0.15/0.5
Pea Pods (ash): 0/3.0/9.0
Pea (vines): 0.25/0/0.7
Pear Leaves: 0.7/0/0.4
Pigeon manure (fresh): 4.19/2.24/1.0
Pigweed (rough): 0.6/0.1/0
Pine Needles: 0.5/0.12/0.03
Potato Skins (ash): 0/5.18/27.5
Potaote Tubers: 0.35/0.15/2.5
Potatoe Vines (dried): 0.6/0.16/1.6
Prune Refuse: 0.18/0.07/0.31
Pumpkins (fresh): 0.16/0.07/0.26
Rabbitbrush (ash): 0/0/13.04
Rabbit Manure: 2.4/1.4/0.6
Ragweed: 0.76/0.26/0
Rapeseed meal: 0/1.0=2.0/1.0=3.0
Raspberry leaves: 1.45/0/0.6
Red clover hay: 2.1/0.6/2.1
Redrop Hay: 1.2/0.35/1.0
Rock and Mussel Deposits
From Ocean: 0.22/0.09/1.78
Roses (flowers): 0.3/0.1/0.4
Rye Straw: 0/0/1.0
Salt March Hay: 1.1/0.25/0.75
Sardine Scrap: 8.0/7.1/0
Seaweed (dried): 1.1-1.5/0.75/4.9
Seaweed (fresh): 0.2-0.4/0/0
Sheep and Goat Manure (fresh): 0.55/0.6/0.3
Shoddy and Felt: 8.0/0/0
Shrimp Heads (dried): 7.8/4.2/0
Shrimp Wastes: 2.9/10.0/0
Siftings From Oyster Shell Mounds: 0.36/10.38/0.09
Silk Mill Wastes: 8.0/1.14/1.0
Silkworm Cocoons:10.0/1.82/1.08
Sludge: 2.0/1.9/0.3
Sludge (activated): 5.0/2.5-4.0/0.6
Smokehouse/Firepit Ash:0/0/4.96
Sorghum Straw:0/0/1.0
Soybean Hay: 1.5-3.0/0/1.2-2.3
Starfish: 1.8/0.2/0.25
Sugar Wastes (raw): 2.0/8.0/0
Sweet Potatoes: 0.25/0.1/0.5
Swine Manure (fresh): 0.6/0.45/0.5
Tanbark Ash: 0/0.34/3.8
Tanbark Ash (spent): 0/1.75/2.0
Tankage: 3.0-11.0/2.0-5.0/0
Tea Grounds: 4.15/0.62/0.4
Timothy Hay: 1.2/0.55/1.4
Tobacco Leaves: 4.0/0.5/6.0
Tobacco Stems: 2.5-3.7/0.6-0.9/4.5-7.0
Tomato Fruit: 0.2/0.07/0.35
Tomatoe Leaves: 0.35/0.1/0.4
Tomatoe Stalks: 0.35/0.1/0.5
Tung Oil Pumace: 6.1/0/0
Vetch Hay: 2.8/0/2.3
Waste Silt: 9.5/0/0
Wheat Bran: 2.4/2.9/1.6
Wheat (grain): 2.0/0.85/0.5
Wheat Straw: 0.5/0.15/0.8
White Clover (Green): 0.5/0.2/0.3
Winter Rye Hay: 0/0/1.0
Wood Ash: 0/1.0-2.0/6.0-10.0
Wool Wastes: 3.5-6.0/2.0-4.0/1.0-3.5
Apple Fruit: 0.05/0.02/0.1
Apple Leaves: 1.0/0.15/0.4
Apple Pomace: 0.2/0.02/0.15
Apple skins(ash) : 0/3.0/11/74
Banana Residues (ash): 1.75/0.75/0.5
Barley (grain): 0/0/0.5
Barley (straw): 0/0/1.0
Basalt Rock: 0/0/1.5
Bat Guano: 5.0-8.0/4.0-5.0/1.0
Beans, garden(seed and hull): 0.25/0.08/03
Beet Wastes: 0.4/0.4/0.7-4.1
Blood meal: 15.0/0/0
Bone Black: 1.5/0/0
Bonemeal (raw): 3.3-4.1/21.0/0.2
Bonemeal (steamed): 1.6-2.5/21.0/0.2
Brewery Wastes (wet): 1.0/0.5/0.05
Buckwheat straw: 0/0/2.0
Cantaloupe Rinds (ash): 0/9.77/12.0
Castor pomace: 4.0-6.6/1.0-2.0/1.0-2.0
Cattail reeds and water lily stems: 2.0/0.8/3.4
Cattail Seed: 0.98/0.25/0.1
Cattle Manure (fresh): 0.29/0.25/0.1
Cherry Leaves: 0.6/0/0.7
Chicken Manure (fresh): 1.6/1.0-1.5/0.6-1.0
Clover: 2/0/0/0 (also contains calcium)
Cocoa Shell Dust: 1.0/1.5/1.7
Coffee Grounds: 2.0/0.36/0.67
Corn (grain): 1.65/0.65/0.4
Corn (green forage): 0.4/0.13/0.33
Corn cobs: 0/0/2.0
Corn Silage: 0.42/0/0
Cornstalks: 0.75/0/0.8
Cottonseed hulls (ash): 0/8.7/23.9
Cottonseed Meal: 7.0/2.0-3.0/1.8
Cotton Wastes (factory): 1.32/0.45/0.36
Cowpea Hay: 3.0/0/2.3
Cowpeas (green forage): 0.45/0.12/0.45
Cowpeas (seed): 3.1/1.0/1.2
Crabgrass (green): 0.66/0.19/0.71
Crabs (dried, ground): 10.0/0/0
Crabs (fresh): 5.0/3.6/0.2
Cucumber Skins (ash): 0/11.28/27.2
Dried Blood: 10.0-14.0/1.0-5.0/0
Duck Manure (fresh): 1.12/1.44/0.6
Eggs: 2.25/0.4/0.15
Eggshells: 1.19/0.38/0.14
Feathers: 15.3/0/0
Felt Wastes: 14.0/0/1.0
Field Beans (seed): 4.0/1.2/1.3
Feild Beans (shells): 1.7/0.3/1.3
Fish (dried, ground): 8.0/7.0/0
Fish Scraps (fresh): 6.5/3.75/0
Gluten Meal: 6.4/0/0
Granite Dust: 0/0/3.0-5.5
Grapefruit Skins (ash): 0/3.6/30.6
Grape Leaves: 0.45/0.1/0.4
Grape Pomace: 1.0/0.07/0.3
Grass (imature): 1.0/0/1.2
Greensand: 0/1.5/7.0
Hair: 14/0/0/0
Hoof and Horn Meal: 12.5/2.0/0
Horse Manure (fresh): 0.44/0.35/0.3
Incinerator Ash: 0.24/5.15/2.33
Jellyfish (dried): 4.6/0/0
Kentucky Bluegrass (green): 0.66/0.19/0.71
Kentucky Bluegrass (hay): 1.2/0.4/2.0
Leather Dust: 11.0/0/0
Lemon Culls: 0.15/0.06/0.26
Lemon Skins (ash): 06.33/1.0
Lobster Refuse: 4.5/3.5/0
Milk: 0.5/0.3/0.18
Millet Hay: 1.2/0/3.2
Molasses Residue: 0.7/0/5.32
Molasses Waste: 0/0/3.0-4.0
Mud (fresh water): 1.37/0.26/0.22
Mud (harbour): 0.99/0.77/0.05
Mud (salt): 0.4.0/0
Mussels: 1.0/0.12/0.13
Nutshells: 2.5/0/0
Oak Leaves: 0.8/0.35/0.2
Oats (grain): 2.0/0.8/0.6
Oats (green fodder): 0.49/0/0
Oat straw: 0/0/1.5
Olive Pomace: 1.15/0.78/1.3
Orange Culls: 0.2/0.13/0.21
Orange Skins: 0/3.0/27.0
Oyster Shells: 0.36/0/0
Peach Leaves: 0.9/0.15/0.6
Pea forage: 1.5-2.5/0/1.4
Peanuts (seed/kernals): 3.6/0.7/0.45
Peanut Shells: 3.6/0.15/0.5
Pea Pods (ash): 0/3.0/9.0
Pea (vines): 0.25/0/0.7
Pear Leaves: 0.7/0/0.4
Pigeon manure (fresh): 4.19/2.24/1.0
Pigweed (rough): 0.6/0.1/0
Pine Needles: 0.5/0.12/0.03
Potato Skins (ash): 0/5.18/27.5
Potaote Tubers: 0.35/0.15/2.5
Potatoe Vines (dried): 0.6/0.16/1.6
Prune Refuse: 0.18/0.07/0.31
Pumpkins (fresh): 0.16/0.07/0.26
Rabbitbrush (ash): 0/0/13.04
Rabbit Manure: 2.4/1.4/0.6
Ragweed: 0.76/0.26/0
Rapeseed meal: 0/1.0=2.0/1.0=3.0
Raspberry leaves: 1.45/0/0.6
Red clover hay: 2.1/0.6/2.1
Redrop Hay: 1.2/0.35/1.0
Rock and Mussel Deposits
From Ocean: 0.22/0.09/1.78
Roses (flowers): 0.3/0.1/0.4
Rye Straw: 0/0/1.0
Salt March Hay: 1.1/0.25/0.75
Sardine Scrap: 8.0/7.1/0
Seaweed (dried): 1.1-1.5/0.75/4.9
Seaweed (fresh): 0.2-0.4/0/0
Sheep and Goat Manure (fresh): 0.55/0.6/0.3
Shoddy and Felt: 8.0/0/0
Shrimp Heads (dried): 7.8/4.2/0
Shrimp Wastes: 2.9/10.0/0
Siftings From Oyster Shell Mounds: 0.36/10.38/0.09
Silk Mill Wastes: 8.0/1.14/1.0
Silkworm Cocoons:10.0/1.82/1.08
Sludge: 2.0/1.9/0.3
Sludge (activated): 5.0/2.5-4.0/0.6
Smokehouse/Firepit Ash:0/0/4.96
Sorghum Straw:0/0/1.0
Soybean Hay: 1.5-3.0/0/1.2-2.3
Starfish: 1.8/0.2/0.25
Sugar Wastes (raw): 2.0/8.0/0
Sweet Potatoes: 0.25/0.1/0.5
Swine Manure (fresh): 0.6/0.45/0.5
Tanbark Ash: 0/0.34/3.8
Tanbark Ash (spent): 0/1.75/2.0
Tankage: 3.0-11.0/2.0-5.0/0
Tea Grounds: 4.15/0.62/0.4
Timothy Hay: 1.2/0.55/1.4
Tobacco Leaves: 4.0/0.5/6.0
Tobacco Stems: 2.5-3.7/0.6-0.9/4.5-7.0
Tomato Fruit: 0.2/0.07/0.35
Tomatoe Leaves: 0.35/0.1/0.4
Tomatoe Stalks: 0.35/0.1/0.5
Tung Oil Pumace: 6.1/0/0
Vetch Hay: 2.8/0/2.3
Waste Silt: 9.5/0/0
Wheat Bran: 2.4/2.9/1.6
Wheat (grain): 2.0/0.85/0.5
Wheat Straw: 0.5/0.15/0.8
White Clover (Green): 0.5/0.2/0.3
Winter Rye Hay: 0/0/1.0
Wood Ash: 0/1.0-2.0/6.0-10.0
Wool Wastes: 3.5-6.0/2.0-4.0/1.0-3.5
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
why does it make you nervous? If you are thinking about the ink, don't worry, all printing inks in this country have been soy based for years now.
If you are worried about it blocking air circulation and just sitting there, that's not a problem as long as the cardboard stuff is torn up a bit -- I usually aim for about notebook paper size pieces -- and your compost pile stays damp. Dry cardboard lasts forever.
If you are worried about it blocking air circulation and just sitting there, that's not a problem as long as the cardboard stuff is torn up a bit -- I usually aim for about notebook paper size pieces -- and your compost pile stays damp. Dry cardboard lasts forever.
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 6:21 pm
- Location: West Lafayette, Indiana
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
String has a life of it's own. I would never put it in the compost pile. When you turn the pile you will get part of the string and have to pull it out. It will also get stuck. Sometimes it gives way suddenly, spraying you with compost. If it makes its way into your garden or yard it will wind around your tiller or mower. I burn it and put the ashes on.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30551
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Found this article that mint is high in nitrogen and phosphorus:
https://www.goodfruit.com/Good-Fruit-Grower/February-15th-2008/Mint-compost-in-organic-orchards/
In the article, mint hay in question is waste product after extracting essential oils, so presumably distillation processed. In my garden, I have been putting them in a dry pile with invading Englsh ivy. How wasteful is that?
I think I'll start an independent dry mint pile, then put the dried stuff either in the compost piles or in my AACT bucket. I've been brewing all kinds of herbage (is that a word?) in the setup -- comfrey, nettles, even dried snakeroot. Why not dried mint? I wonder if presense of mint essential oils could somehow be detrimental? Mint IS used as antiseptic. Hmmm.
https://www.goodfruit.com/Good-Fruit-Grower/February-15th-2008/Mint-compost-in-organic-orchards/
In the article, mint hay in question is waste product after extracting essential oils, so presumably distillation processed. In my garden, I have been putting them in a dry pile with invading Englsh ivy. How wasteful is that?
I think I'll start an independent dry mint pile, then put the dried stuff either in the compost piles or in my AACT bucket. I've been brewing all kinds of herbage (is that a word?) in the setup -- comfrey, nettles, even dried snakeroot. Why not dried mint? I wonder if presense of mint essential oils could somehow be detrimental? Mint IS used as antiseptic. Hmmm.
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
-
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm
I must be reading this wrong. Sounds like dairy manure has twice the N than finished compost. Are they comparing fresh manure vs composted manure?Manures and composts contain and release N in varying amounts. Fresh dairy manure promptly incorporated should provide at least 5 pounds of available N per ton. Fresh poultry manure provides about 3 times that amount. Mature compost generally contains about 1% total N, but that varies depending on how it's made. As compost ages, the availability of the N it contains tends to decrease. In most cases only about 10% of the total N in compost will be available to a crop in the year of application. that's about 2 lb per ton, or 3/4 lb per cubic yard. Laboratory testing helps determine the nutrient content and availability of manure or compost
What's the definition of Field Compost?
Grass hay seems to be equivalent, but not sure how it is used. Is the young grass tilled in?
Not enough information for me.
Eric
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
-
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm
So, Is the information contradicting? With out definitions the information is almost useless.rainbowgardener wrote:I didn't even read all that. I was just going by the chart where it says fresh
dairy manure has 0.5% N and finished field compost has 1.2% N.
If grass hay is as good as compost why go through the hassle of composting?
I consider compost more of a soil amendment than a fertilizer.
Eric
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
You know the answers to those questions, Eric but I will answer them for the benefit of those who might not. The article is just about sources of Nitrogen. Whatever the details, compost is clearly not the most concentrated source of Nitrogen. The point of compost is that is a very balanced source of everything, NPK plus all the trace minerals and micro-nutrients, plus fungi, bacteria, earthworms and other life of the soil.DoubleDogFarm wrote:
If grass hay is as good as compost why go through the hassle of composting?
I consider compost more of a soil amendment than a fertilizer.
Eric
But I think of compost as a soil amendment (aids in tilth, water absorbtion, increasing the loaminess of your soil etc) AND a fertilizer. As a fertilizer, it is not very concentrated, but you can add as much as you want, whenever you want, without burning your plants, increasing the salt levels in your soil, harming the life of the soil, etc. What I was reacting to in the article is the suggestion that it along with all of the above, perhaps compost is also a decent source of N.
Compost and mulch is all the fertilizing I ever do and I get good results.
- cedillamuerta
- Full Member
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2012 4:42 am
- Location: South MS
- ElizabethB
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 2105
- Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:53 am
- Location: Lafayette, LA
I guess I am kind of a composting purist. I stick to the basics vegetable scraps (raw) leaves (mulched) grass clippings. coffe grounds and filters. egg shells rinsed and crushed. Manure. Sister and brother-in-law breed quarter horses so I have access to cured horse manure. I also got on line and located a couple of local rabbit breeders. They are more than happy to have me go out with a couple of 5 gallon buckets and scoop up manure. When I need to add soil I go to Lowe's and buy busted bags of soil for pennies on the dollar. .50 for 3 cubic ft bag of miracle grow soil. Another thing is that we have a recycling pick up service so stuff like towel rolls and news papers are taken care of. Not going to a landfill. Please be careful with ash and charcoal. That can really raise the pH of your compost and may be detremental to your soil. Some charcoal has chemical additives that I would be leary of.
I know - many folks believe in putting lots of other stuff in their compost. This is just me - not for everyone.
Never heard of putting feathers in a compost bin. Do you cut them up? Seems like the quill would be a little slow to decompose. I tried the stuff in the vacumm cleaner bag once and ended up with a nasty wad of gunk. Had to take it out.
Not claiming to be a composting expert - just sharing what I do.
LOL
I know - many folks believe in putting lots of other stuff in their compost. This is just me - not for everyone.
Never heard of putting feathers in a compost bin. Do you cut them up? Seems like the quill would be a little slow to decompose. I tried the stuff in the vacumm cleaner bag once and ended up with a nasty wad of gunk. Had to take it out.
Not claiming to be a composting expert - just sharing what I do.
LOL
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
"When I need to add soil" ....
You have mentioned this before. I really don't understand. Why would you ever "need" to add soil to compost in bag lots. I occasionally toss a handful of soil in to be sure that the compost pile is inoculated with soil bacteria/fungi etc. Not sure that is even necessary. I don't know what adding bags of soil would do . . . dilute your compost and slow it down, make it take up a lot more volume...
I am a bit less conservative about what I put in my compost pile (ANY kitchen scrap, since I am vegetarian, so kitchen scraps don't include meat), pulled weeds and yard trimmings. But no manure. I'm in the city and don't have easy access to any. And I like the idea of closed loop gardening. Everything from the yard goes back in to it - brush is chipped up and used for manure, wood is burned and the ash goes in the compost pile (I know, only a little bit at a time). So nothing leaves and very little comes in. Some of those kitchen scraps originally came from the grocery, the fall leaves I collect from around my neighborhood not just my property, and I still buy some potting soil for seed starting and some seeds. Otherwise, nothing out, nothing in, just round and round...
When I used to live on five acres, we also had a composting toilet. I would love to do that again, to really close up the loop, but haven't convinced my honey.
You have mentioned this before. I really don't understand. Why would you ever "need" to add soil to compost in bag lots. I occasionally toss a handful of soil in to be sure that the compost pile is inoculated with soil bacteria/fungi etc. Not sure that is even necessary. I don't know what adding bags of soil would do . . . dilute your compost and slow it down, make it take up a lot more volume...
I am a bit less conservative about what I put in my compost pile (ANY kitchen scrap, since I am vegetarian, so kitchen scraps don't include meat), pulled weeds and yard trimmings. But no manure. I'm in the city and don't have easy access to any. And I like the idea of closed loop gardening. Everything from the yard goes back in to it - brush is chipped up and used for manure, wood is burned and the ash goes in the compost pile (I know, only a little bit at a time). So nothing leaves and very little comes in. Some of those kitchen scraps originally came from the grocery, the fall leaves I collect from around my neighborhood not just my property, and I still buy some potting soil for seed starting and some seeds. Otherwise, nothing out, nothing in, just round and round...
When I used to live on five acres, we also had a composting toilet. I would love to do that again, to really close up the loop, but haven't convinced my honey.
-
- Greener Thumb
- Posts: 970
- Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2010 4:50 pm
- Location: MO
Lots of people seem to think a compost pile needs a lot of soil. I get that question almost every time I do a workshop for a group. Maybe the prev. poster is referring to adding soil to the garden, I.e. raised beds.
In any case it's certainly not a brown OR green and adds little to the compost except for microbes, for which a handful will do.
I virtually never add it because my piles are on the ground and also have a few chunks of previous batches tossed in. Nature does the rest.
In any case it's certainly not a brown OR green and adds little to the compost except for microbes, for which a handful will do.
I virtually never add it because my piles are on the ground and also have a few chunks of previous batches tossed in. Nature does the rest.
-
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 4:12 pm
- Wabernathy
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:35 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
Does anyone add lime to their compost bins to aid in organic breakdown? I have gone back and forth on additives, except I recognize that pest control is most successful when the material breaks down faster- fewer food scraps, fewer skunks and squirrels rooting about.
If you do use lime, or any other additives available on the store shelves, I'd like to hear your results.
Thanks!
If you do use lime, or any other additives available on the store shelves, I'd like to hear your results.
Thanks!
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
No additives! except as noted the occasional small handful of soil or previous finished compost. If your garden needs lime, lime the garden, not the compost. Compost pile needs to be tightly enclosed. I know there are people who have 3 sided compost bins, open at the top and one side. I don't know how they do it, but it would never work for me. If my compost pile isn't completely enclosed (with wire for ventilation) including the top, no kitchen scraps would ever stay in it to be composted, since I have squirrels, woodchucks, lots of raccoons, etc.
Keeping a good balance of greens and browns and keeping the pile damp but not wet is all you need to do.
Keeping a good balance of greens and browns and keeping the pile damp but not wet is all you need to do.
- Wabernathy
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:35 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
"Should I add lime to my pile?
Do not add lime to a pile because it may cause nitrogen to be released from the pile as ammonia gas. This gas smells bad and leaves your compost with less nitrogen, an important plant nutrient for you garden.
You don't need to worry about the pH of a compost pile. pH, being a measurement of alkalinity or acidity, will generally adjust itself and when compost is mature, the pH is usually around neutral (7).
If you need to adjust the pH of compost, do this after it has completed its composting. First test the pH of your finished compost and adjust it as needed. "
https://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate ... st/FAQ.htm
this is a good article about composting, with lots of other good info
In my words, I would say 1) lime isn't good for your pile ... 2) it doesn't do you any good in finished result, because the pH will get neutralized in the composting process anyway with or with out it ... 3) don't even bother adjusting the pH of the finished compost, adjust the pH of your soil, which is all you care about anyway. The lime does you a lot more good in the garden than in the compost pile.
Do not add lime to a pile because it may cause nitrogen to be released from the pile as ammonia gas. This gas smells bad and leaves your compost with less nitrogen, an important plant nutrient for you garden.
You don't need to worry about the pH of a compost pile. pH, being a measurement of alkalinity or acidity, will generally adjust itself and when compost is mature, the pH is usually around neutral (7).
If you need to adjust the pH of compost, do this after it has completed its composting. First test the pH of your finished compost and adjust it as needed. "
https://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate ... st/FAQ.htm
this is a good article about composting, with lots of other good info
In my words, I would say 1) lime isn't good for your pile ... 2) it doesn't do you any good in finished result, because the pH will get neutralized in the composting process anyway with or with out it ... 3) don't even bother adjusting the pH of the finished compost, adjust the pH of your soil, which is all you care about anyway. The lime does you a lot more good in the garden than in the compost pile.
- ElizabethB
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 2105
- Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:53 am
- Location: Lafayette, LA
This thread is too long for me to read every post. Just a few comments. I can not wrap my head around using the stuff from my bag less vacuum cleaner. 2 cats in the house - 1 long hair. Natural fiber clothes - We have lots of cotton - just how small do you have to cut it up and how long does it take to decompose? A new one for me. I do use toilet paper and paper towel rolls. Since I do not have a gerbil I run them through the shredder. Lots of coffee grounds and filters, tea bags, egg shells, vegetable clippings, grass clippings, leaves. We have a very old live oak and it sheds in March. G puts the bagger on his mower and mulches the leaves. We bag them up for browns year round. My sister and BIL raise Quarter Horses. Lots of free, cured manure. I also have contact with rabbit breeders for free, cool, rabbit manure. Does not have to be cured before use.
Although valid, some of the ideas I have read are just outside of my comfort zone. I can deal with putting small amounts of cat hair outside for the birds to use as nesting material but I do not think I will use it in my compost bins. I toss bread in the yard for the birds to eat but not in the compost. I do not add any cooked foods and never any animal by products to my compost. I will NEVER add cat litter to my compost! Some people do.
A very interesting thread.
Although valid, some of the ideas I have read are just outside of my comfort zone. I can deal with putting small amounts of cat hair outside for the birds to use as nesting material but I do not think I will use it in my compost bins. I toss bread in the yard for the birds to eat but not in the compost. I do not add any cooked foods and never any animal by products to my compost. I will NEVER add cat litter to my compost! Some people do.
A very interesting thread.
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
You have tons of great compostables there, Elizabeth!
I haven't added pet hair to compost pile, but lately I'm saving it, because I read that slugs don't like to travel across it (I guess it gums them up or something ), so using it as mulch helps keeps slugs away from your plants. I thought I would at least try it.
I don't see any reason in the world not to put bread or cooked food in the compost pile and I do that all the time. It all disappears nicely. No meat, which I don't have anyway being vegetarian, but I have put small amounts of dairy stuff in.
I would never put clay cat litter in the compost pile, turns into a nasty clay mess. I have at times put scooped out wheat based litter in the compost pile, but our one kitty we have left doesn't like to use the wheat stuff, so that's out.
I tried one time emptying my vacuum cleaner bag into compost pile. Didn't think about the fact that our carpet is synthetic fibers. We had red carpet fibers blowing around the yard for a few years after that!
I don't put any manure in my pile. I'm a city girl and there's no manure on our property, so I don't use it. Compost pile doesn't heat up as easily without it, but everything composts.
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle! I recycle or compost everything I possibly can.
I haven't added pet hair to compost pile, but lately I'm saving it, because I read that slugs don't like to travel across it (I guess it gums them up or something ), so using it as mulch helps keeps slugs away from your plants. I thought I would at least try it.
I don't see any reason in the world not to put bread or cooked food in the compost pile and I do that all the time. It all disappears nicely. No meat, which I don't have anyway being vegetarian, but I have put small amounts of dairy stuff in.
I would never put clay cat litter in the compost pile, turns into a nasty clay mess. I have at times put scooped out wheat based litter in the compost pile, but our one kitty we have left doesn't like to use the wheat stuff, so that's out.
I tried one time emptying my vacuum cleaner bag into compost pile. Didn't think about the fact that our carpet is synthetic fibers. We had red carpet fibers blowing around the yard for a few years after that!
I don't put any manure in my pile. I'm a city girl and there's no manure on our property, so I don't use it. Compost pile doesn't heat up as easily without it, but everything composts.
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle! I recycle or compost everything I possibly can.
I don't add lime, but wood ash to my compost, in small quantities, its mostly fruit scraps and the ash seems to make it brake down faster. Wich I'm all for with my half composting season.
I wouldnt use the vaccum cleaner bag for anything close to my garden! Maybe if you live off grid and have only your own hemp clothes, and 100% synthetic free building materials. This bag is full of junk you don't want in your compost, but people add it and doesnt see the small synthetic fibers anymore and think they actually decomposed.
I wouldnt use the vaccum cleaner bag for anything close to my garden! Maybe if you live off grid and have only your own hemp clothes, and 100% synthetic free building materials. This bag is full of junk you don't want in your compost, but people add it and doesnt see the small synthetic fibers anymore and think they actually decomposed.