Hi, I would like to know if these worms would be good for a worm bin or not. If not what would they be good for? They're no longer than a couple inches. Thanks.
[url=https://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l580/aoiyuurei/random/worms.jpg][img]https://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l580/aoiyuurei/random/th_worms.jpg[/img][/url]
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DoubleDogFarm
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I can't tell one species of earthworm from the next, except I know a nightcrawler when I see one. 
I think the red wrigglers, which are kind of the standard ones sold for worm bins, are a darker red and, maybe, a bit on the small side. Still, IMO, I think the ones you found would be fine.
Did you happen to see this thread? [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32807]How to Find Earthworms[/url] You might find some information there, as a couple of species of earthworms are mentioned.
I think the red wrigglers, which are kind of the standard ones sold for worm bins, are a darker red and, maybe, a bit on the small side. Still, IMO, I think the ones you found would be fine. Did you happen to see this thread? [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32807]How to Find Earthworms[/url] You might find some information there, as a couple of species of earthworms are mentioned.
Well, I'm not a proponent of putting worms in containers, unless you're using the word "container" to describe a raised bed. IMO, aeration is good for the soil in larger areas, but not so good for the soil in a "pot" type of container. It's more important, I think, to use a proper soil mixture that provides the correct drainage for the development of a healthy root system.
However, I'm also not a person who ascribes to the idea that there is "one set way" to achieve a goal. I think people should experiment and find the techniques that work best for them. As long as a method aids in the development of a healthy plant, then it's good.
ETA: Worm castings are good, but for container culture, I believe it better to maintain a worm bin as a source of the castings and add them to the planting mix ... rather than placing the actual worms in the containers. But again, thats just my opinion.
However, I'm also not a person who ascribes to the idea that there is "one set way" to achieve a goal. I think people should experiment and find the techniques that work best for them. As long as a method aids in the development of a healthy plant, then it's good.
ETA: Worm castings are good, but for container culture, I believe it better to maintain a worm bin as a source of the castings and add them to the planting mix ... rather than placing the actual worms in the containers. But again, thats just my opinion.
I'm using pots, buckets etc, since I'm trying to grow some inside this year, away from the bugs and other critters that have been eating my seedlings. As for the worms, I got a huge 78 gallon tote that I can put them in, and try to make a bin for them that way, like some of the other guides and such I can see on google. Then use the worm castings at a later time. I definitely want healthy plants ;3
Mary Appelhof, author of Worms Eat My Garbage, popularized the home construction of worm bins with plywood. She published a drawing of the four cuts (24", 24", 23", and 25") across the 8' length of plywood and the shorter cuts both in the original 1982 edition and the 1997 2nd edition of her book.bg wrote:That looks to be pretty efficient to be able to get that out of one sheet! How long does the wood last outside? Is it treated or do you seal it yourself with something?
Her recommendations were that "unfinished wooden boxes should last two to three years," but that this period could be extended by rotating two boxes whenever a new set-up was called for (post-harvest, I would guess); or finishing the wood with polyurethane varnish, epoxy, or other waterproofing material, sealing all edges. However, she didn't say whether both SIDES of the wood (inside and outside) should be sealed as well. Logic would dictate that both sides should be sealed, but a good period should be allowed for outgassing before placing worms inside, IMHO.
@ bg, have you drilled holes or provided ventilation in the "78-gallon" (are you sure it's not a 78-quart) tote? Worms need to breathe, just like mammals do. Without a continual supply of air, worms will suffocate.
Sometimes your local municipality or county will support the purchase of worm habitats with a discount. My BioStack and Worm Factory were each purchased in this way, although many years apart! Check with your solid-waste provider.
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
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rainbowgardener
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I stocked my worm bin with worms from my compost pile. I figured they were there because they were eating the kitchen scraps and stuff in the compost pile, so why wouldn't they do the same in my worm bin? It has worked out just fine. I started it in November with just a few worms (no more than fifty, maybe a little less), because it was cold and worms were hard to find. I recently added a bunch more.
Once it is a little warmer, I will move the worm bin outside. Then I will work on luring them into a new bin and see what all is left behind in the first one. With the new additions, they are chewing their way through quite a bit of leaves and scraps these days.
Once it is a little warmer, I will move the worm bin outside. Then I will work on luring them into a new bin and see what all is left behind in the first one. With the new additions, they are chewing their way through quite a bit of leaves and scraps these days.