Hi fellow newbie! I've spent a little over a year now on a crash course on vermicomposting, so I'll take a shot at your questions.
1) Freeze it. This kills any fruit fly eggs. Fruit flies are your main enemy. Not that they actually hurt anything AFAIK, but they are extremely annoying and that's enough to make them the enemy.
2) How much to feed: this would be simple to answer if not for the fact that it all depends on how adapted to their environment they are. When fully settled into their bin and adapted to the food stream they are provided, they "can eat as much as their own weight daily". But you not only do not know just how "adapted" they are, once you put them in you don't even know how many worms you have, how many are adults, etc. So this rule of thumb is, to me, next to useless.
The best answer I've come up with is: "start slow, observe and react, then crank it up." To make sure it doesn't smell bad or create a fruit fly problem, do not overfeed. In fact, to me having those problems is the definition of overfeeding.
When you first start your worm bin, they are not going to be very well adapted to their environment at all. So your pound of worms is going to eat much less than a pound per day. Maybe a pound per week for the first week.
So stockpiling up your food in anticipation of getting your worm bin may not be the way to go, simply because you may be saving a lot of waste food for a long time. Then again, freezing is a great way to break down cell walls and get food ready for the worms. I'll leave it at that for you to apply to your situation.
Once you start to see food disappear and worm castings start to accumulate, you know that things are working and you can increase the amount and frequency of feeding. For the first several months, you need to let your observation of how the bin looks - is the food just sitting there, do you see lots of active worms around the food, etc. - guide how much you feed. Observe and react. Keep the food covered with bedding, and don't worry about the worms starving to death, especially if you think you might be over-feeding. You can leave a worm bin unfed for a week or two without any real problems.
If the idea is to recycle all your kitchen waste - and get rid of the stinky garbage can - you can continue to increase the feeding until they take it all. This is to me the goal.
3) Leaves and Newspaper: Bedding. Fallen leaves are actually not a good material for vermicomposting. They have low nutrition and get matted up easily, forming wads that just sit there in a worm bin. Leaves belong in a regular compost heap.
Newspaper strips are an amazingly good worm bedding. So is brown corrugated cardboard. Both need to be torn or cut into small pieces, which is of course much easier with the paper, but both actually are a low-grade food as well as bedding. I recommend finding a source for newspaper because one of the most important things for success is to make sure you keep a thick covering of damp shredded newspaper on top of the food.
But if you have cardboard and a utility knife and promise to be careful, cut it into strips and chunks so that it can still be fluffed up a bit when wet. In a new worm bin, it's a little harder to keep food buried with it, but you can have a successful worm bin using just cardboard as bedding.
Another bedding material is coconut coir. This is a sustainable product, but you want to properly source it. If, like most do these days, the producers soak it in fresh water before drying and cutting into bricks, it is an excellent bedding. It isn't free, but is affordable.