If you don't mind me prying, what kind of job was it that allowed you analyze soil microbes for a living? That sound like it'd be an interesting field to be in.The Helpful Gardener wrote:Naegleria ios a real common soil flagellate...
This one is stained, but you get the idea...
Lemon shaped...hmmm... dinoflagellates? This is Peridinium...
Yeah, the swirling in the feeding is a common thing, more noted on cilliates than anything else. The big fast fellahs look like this?
Yep, I used to get payed to do that stuff; I miss that job...
I'm confused , wouldn't his pump more than accomplish this? Thanks for clearing this up .G5, I misthunk back there; per hour, not per gallon on the pump. FOr a 5 gallon anyway. Turn your tank, whatever size, three to four times an hour and you are good. Sorry for the confusion Embarassed
First of all I'd like to make it clear that most aquarium air pumps don't produce enough air to use in a container larger than 1 gallon when considering making an aerated brewer. So don't even try the 5 gallon pail with the aquarium pump idea everybody is passing around. You need a minimum 0.05 CFM (cubic feet per minute), open flow of air and an optimum 0.08 CFM per gallon (US) or higher to make aerated compost tea (ACT). ACT should have the DO2 sustained at or above 6 PPM. Generally, aquarium pumps produce around 0.02 to 0.16 CFM. Another generality is that 25 watts of power usually produces 0.75 to 1.0 CFM in diaphragm air pumps. The wattage is usually marked on the pump which will help you figure out the approximate output. I'll cover more on air pumps later.
In the following I will outline some simple methods of building a variety of compost tea makers. I am not going to discuss anaerobic methods at this time. Later on I may add some sketches.
1/ Stir Method: The cheapest way to make compost tea is the old fashioned way. Just add compost to clean, non-chlorinated, water (above 65 degrees F. recommended) and stir like mad with a clean stick or whathaveyou. I'd recommend using about 3 to 5% compost by volume of water and stir it up as often as you can over an 8 to 12 hour period. Some people do it over a 24 hour period and also add some foodstock like molasses, fish hydrolysate and kelp. You can experiment with different times and ingredients and decide for yourself. If you have a microscope, check it out. When you feel that you have a completed compost tea (CT) you can remove it in several ways. If you have just used a 5 gallon pail you can simply let the particulate matter settle and pour the clearer CT off into watering cans or your sprayer.
I just don't buy that... Fish are aerobic. They need 4-10 ppm of oxygen to live, and the aquarium pumps most people are using are for 10-30+ gallon tanks. If it's enough to keep a tank that size aerobic, why is it not enough to keep a 5 gallon bucket aerobic? (assuming approximately room-temperature water... that's important)So don't even try the 5 gallon pail with the aquarium pump idea everybody is passing around. You need a minimum 0.05 CFM (cubic feet per minute), open flow of air and an optimum 0.08 CFM per gallon (US) or higher to make aerated compost tea (ACT)
Theoretically speaking of course. They do absorb light and oxygen etc where the leaves absorb nitrogen, potassium etc. They all do their part in acquiring needed nutrients for life.The Helpful Gardener wrote:Leaves as roots may be stretching it, but leaves can absorb some moisture and nutrition.
based on my own informal study, I've "concluded" that all plants have the genetic potential to "use leaves as roots". btw, I'm sure everyone has seen roots turn green when soil erodes - from chlorophyl.gixxerific wrote:Theoretically speaking of course. They do absorb light and oxygen etc where the leaves absorb nitrogen, potassium etc. They all do their part in acquiring needed nutrients for life.The Helpful Gardener wrote:Leaves as roots may be stretching it, but leaves can absorb some moisture and nutrition.