I plan to start a worm bin composter, adding my already started compost as bedding. I understand the worms will break it down much faster and make it richer with their castings. Is composted materials ok for bedding?
I'm using this [url=https://www.earthwormworks.com/vermicomposting/about_vermicomposting.htm]red worm composting guide[/url]; it talks about using dampened shredded paper and mixing in some garden soil. Is there any danger of the compost killing the worms because of the heat?
Worm Bin Composting (Vermicomposting)
Last edited by Lady Bug on Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I don't think so. Earlier this spring, I turned my BioStack bin. Some worms went through my sifting device and ended up in the buckets where I off-loaded the compost.
Over a month later, I used one of the buckets of compost to make my own "potting mix." There were still worms in that bucket; they had come through the "sifter" and kept on working the compost, even in the bucket. Which was a very confined environment.
So your worms will probably be fine. I just wonder why you're not taking advantage of the worms' ability to convert vegetable matter directly into worm-casting compost?
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Over a month later, I used one of the buckets of compost to make my own "potting mix." There were still worms in that bucket; they had come through the "sifter" and kept on working the compost, even in the bucket. Which was a very confined environment.
So your worms will probably be fine. I just wonder why you're not taking advantage of the worms' ability to convert vegetable matter directly into worm-casting compost?
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Because I have lots of material to compost, including horse manure, and I don't have a big enough bin or enough worms yet to convert all of it. You can only feed them so much. Plus, I need to make bedding for these worms right now. I've been building a compost pile with everthing and letting it heat up. I can use it for worm bedding if I need it after it cools down, or just let it compost. Eventually, when my worm population grows, I can just run it all through them.
Shredded newspaper works very well as bedding for the worms. I've used it for a long time.
Other people report success with shredded cardboard.
Be sure to soak both of these in water and wring them out (or at least let them drip off) before putting them in the worm box.
The worm population will increase, gradually at first and then it will seem to just EXPLODE. Last May my girlfriend and I turned her BioStack. She gave me 1 quart of worms. I put some into my own BioStack and the others into my worm setup. By August, the worms in the BioStack had multiplied so much that I moved a couple of quarts of them to the worm setup. Now (this spring, 10 and 11 months after the importation of the worms) I've given 1 quart of worms each to two people who requested them on FreeCycle.
So don't worry about waiting for finished compost to use as bedding for the worms. Last May I started the worm setup with shredded newspaper, worms from my girlfriend, and veggie scraps from the kitchen. They were happy little worms--and still are! You can just add the compost to the worms' home when you like, or run them as two different operations.
The horse manure will raise the overall temp of your "horse manure compost pile," so that one will compost more quickly. The worms thrive in ambient temps of 60 to 80 or so deg. F, but a frequently turned manure/compost pile will def. get HOT.
Do you have a compost thermometer or other means of measuring the temp?
Cynthia
Other people report success with shredded cardboard.
Be sure to soak both of these in water and wring them out (or at least let them drip off) before putting them in the worm box.
The worm population will increase, gradually at first and then it will seem to just EXPLODE. Last May my girlfriend and I turned her BioStack. She gave me 1 quart of worms. I put some into my own BioStack and the others into my worm setup. By August, the worms in the BioStack had multiplied so much that I moved a couple of quarts of them to the worm setup. Now (this spring, 10 and 11 months after the importation of the worms) I've given 1 quart of worms each to two people who requested them on FreeCycle.
So don't worry about waiting for finished compost to use as bedding for the worms. Last May I started the worm setup with shredded newspaper, worms from my girlfriend, and veggie scraps from the kitchen. They were happy little worms--and still are! You can just add the compost to the worms' home when you like, or run them as two different operations.
The horse manure will raise the overall temp of your "horse manure compost pile," so that one will compost more quickly. The worms thrive in ambient temps of 60 to 80 or so deg. F, but a frequently turned manure/compost pile will def. get HOT.
Do you have a compost thermometer or other means of measuring the temp?
Cynthia
I started an indoor worm bin a few months ago, so I am kind of new to this. However, red worms will not tolerate high temperatures, so you would want to be careful about using compost if it will make the temperature of your bin over 80-85 degrees (approx).
Also, when researching how to set up my worm bin, the book and websites I read warned to be careful not to use manure from animals that have been wormed, or the worming medication that is used will kill your worms in the bin. I'm not sure if you worm horses or not? But just thought I'd mention it.
I use a combination of shredded coconut fiber (coir) and machine shredded newspaper for the bedding in the worm bin.
A website I found really helpful when I was getting started is: https://www.redwormcomposting.com/general-commentary/red-worms-for-sale-part-I/
Also, when researching how to set up my worm bin, the book and websites I read warned to be careful not to use manure from animals that have been wormed, or the worming medication that is used will kill your worms in the bin. I'm not sure if you worm horses or not? But just thought I'd mention it.
I use a combination of shredded coconut fiber (coir) and machine shredded newspaper for the bedding in the worm bin.
A website I found really helpful when I was getting started is: https://www.redwormcomposting.com/general-commentary/red-worms-for-sale-part-I/
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redneck medic
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So what I am hearing yal say it, that you can add compost to worms, but you can't add worms to a compost pile without burning them up. Is this correct?dannah19 wrote: red worms will not tolerate high temperatures, so you would want to be careful about using compost if it will make the temperature of your bin over 80-85 degrees (approx).
It's not a good idea to add worms to a HOT compost pile. It's also not a good idea to add HOT compost to a worm bin. My BioStack runs fairly cool; I've never, but never, gotten a temp higher than 100 deg., and it's more often in the 80 to 85 deg. range in the uppermost foot. Deeper down, I suspect that it's cooler, because that's where I tend to find the highest concentrations of worms, going their merry way.redneck medic wrote:So what I am hearing yal say it, that you can add compost to worms, but you can't add worms to a compost pile without burning them up. Is this correct?dannah19 wrote: red worms will not tolerate high temperatures, so you would want to be careful about using compost if it will make the temperature of your bin over 80-85 degrees (approx).
So if you have a COOL to COLD compost system, the worms will thrive. Over 80 to 85 deg., bye-bye, worms...
Cynthia
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redneck medic
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Have you ever used or seen a tower system in a compost pile?cynthia_h wrote:It's not a good idea to add worms to a HOT compost pile. It's also not a good idea to add HOT compost to a worm bin. My BioStack runs fairly cool; I've never, but never, gotten a temp higher than 100 deg., and it's more often in the 80 to 85 deg. range in the uppermost foot. Deeper down, I suspect that it's cooler, because that's where I tend to find the highest concentrations of worms, going their merry way.redneck medic wrote:So what I am hearing yal say it, that you can add compost to worms, but you can't add worms to a compost pile without burning them up. Is this correct?dannah19 wrote: red worms will not tolerate high temperatures, so you would want to be careful about using compost if it will make the temperature of your bin over 80-85 degrees (approx).
So if you have a COOL to COLD compost system, the worms will thrive. Over 80 to 85 deg., bye-bye, worms...
Cynthia
4 or 5" PVC pipe with soil and 1" holes in the base and the middle with a cap. This allows the worms to migrate to the soil and compost at will. I think it might be a good idea on paper, but not really practicle.
This but into a compost pile.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIyEQoxgocY
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rot
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Make your bin on the ground. Cover it on top from wind, sun and, rain. Keep moist.
If it gets hot, not a major disaster. It will cool and the whole thing won't be that hot and worms Know where it is too hot.
When the rains come is when it really happens. Worms will flee the overly saturated ground and as they work their way up, they will find a nice bin of good eats. With lots of food around they will start multiplying. If you've got the time, don't bother turning. In some months you will have a worm filled bin.
Tilling in the finished product will kill worms and cocoons. Top dressing will deposit worms and cocoons all around the garden and preserve whatever soil structure you got. Once the worms start moving into the ground they will move back up. Now you have critters actively moving compost down and soil with minerals up. 24/7. Over time the soil will improve. It will retain more water and weeds will come out easier.
Low energy. Lots of others doing the work for you. Well fed soil. Native worms not imported or store bought. Cheap. What's not to like?
I'm lazy and in no particular hurry. Just feeding the soil on the cheap.
Mulching or top dressing with coffee grounds will feed lots or worms in soil to. You end up getting the same action of worms coming up and bringing stuff back down again. Thank you kindly Starbucks.
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Make your bin on the ground. Cover it on top from wind, sun and, rain. Keep moist.
If it gets hot, not a major disaster. It will cool and the whole thing won't be that hot and worms Know where it is too hot.
When the rains come is when it really happens. Worms will flee the overly saturated ground and as they work their way up, they will find a nice bin of good eats. With lots of food around they will start multiplying. If you've got the time, don't bother turning. In some months you will have a worm filled bin.
Tilling in the finished product will kill worms and cocoons. Top dressing will deposit worms and cocoons all around the garden and preserve whatever soil structure you got. Once the worms start moving into the ground they will move back up. Now you have critters actively moving compost down and soil with minerals up. 24/7. Over time the soil will improve. It will retain more water and weeds will come out easier.
Low energy. Lots of others doing the work for you. Well fed soil. Native worms not imported or store bought. Cheap. What's not to like?
I'm lazy and in no particular hurry. Just feeding the soil on the cheap.
Mulching or top dressing with coffee grounds will feed lots or worms in soil to. You end up getting the same action of worms coming up and bringing stuff back down again. Thank you kindly Starbucks.
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I have started a pile of grass, leaves, shredded newsprint and veggie scraps, in the spring. I have been adding to it on a regular basis. I ordered 1 lb. red wigglers (worms)and dumped them into a damp spot between layers of composted soil and new material. I keep the top of the pile moist. Yesterday I needed some worms to feed to an aquatic turtle and dug into the soil to get a few. I found only two worms after 5 spadefuls. It has been in the 90s here in Okla. for the past week. Where are the worms?
Also where on this forum do I find out the difference between hot and cold compost piles?
Also where on this forum do I find out the difference between hot and cold compost piles?
Hi, chelonia! Turtles...or tortoises? I'm pretty good on telling different breeds of cats apart; dogs, too. But I don't know my turtles vs. tortoises worth a flip.
We've had tons of discussions here about hot vs. cold composting. There isn't one special thread that lays everything out, but reading several of them together will give you everything you need!
Just look at the upper left-hand corner of each page for the little Search box. I just did this using
hot compost
and
cold compost
as my search phrases.
There were at least 10 pages of hits for each phrase. The threads also contain links to informational sites (.org and .edu url's mostly) with details about hot compost piles, cold compost piles, and vermicomposting.
Happy reading!
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
We've had tons of discussions here about hot vs. cold composting. There isn't one special thread that lays everything out, but reading several of them together will give you everything you need!
Just look at the upper left-hand corner of each page for the little Search box. I just did this using
hot compost
and
cold compost
as my search phrases.
There were at least 10 pages of hits for each phrase. The threads also contain links to informational sites (.org and .edu url's mostly) with details about hot compost piles, cold compost piles, and vermicomposting.
Happy reading!
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9