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hendi_alex
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Here is my compost arrangement

Poured a concrete pad and built the bins. When the bins were directly on the ground, tree roots were too much of a problem.

[img]https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3482/3229570278_fff8c29015.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3434/3228721127_755757af2c.jpg[/img]

The boards on an open side are screwed in place. They are raised one or two at a time when adding materials, and are removed one or two at a time as the compost is used.

2cents
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Concrete good......tree roots bad......

I wish I had been that smart.

rot
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I kind a like the look of the corner arrangement as opposed to three in a row. I'll have to think about that configuration.

If you use pavers on the ground, you can still get worms to come up from the ground. The process just works better for me that way. Should keep out the ground burrowing critters too. I imagine tree roots also.

two cents
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hendi_alex
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Three in a row is better for being able to move compost from one bin to the other. With a three bin system it would be good to have raw in say the left, intermediate in the middle, and completed compost in the end. That would facilitate shoveling from on bin to the other, as they only open on one side. Sometime late, I'll add to the pad and put the bins in a line all open to the same side. As is, it is difficult shoveling from one bin to the other, having to shovel over that tall four foot plus high side.

rot
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Four feet is about as high as I want to go. I'm just not that tall.

When I was putting together an artificial pond in the backyard, I went searching around for how deep it should be. The best advice I found was to make it no deeper than just below your inseam - for maintenance purposes.
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Timlin
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Location: Zone 3 Canada

I use cement blocks for my bins (we had them from an old building) and a rubber mat below. I only turn my compost once. I build it in the fall, turn it in the spring and work it into the garden that fall. I know it's not broken down enough to be absolutely wonderful.........it's lumpy often but it smells sweet and by the spring after I apply it to the garden the lumps are gone and the garden is smooth for planting into.

I realize this means I'm too lazy and too impatient. I plead guilty to both. :oops:

Rukah
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So, my fiance' and I just started "building" a compost just 2 days ago. We decided to dig an approx. 3ft x 4ft hole roughly 2 ft into the ground, and will in turn take some wood planks to sturdy the edges. Then build a wood lid on hinges to open/close the compost.

Now then, looking at your above ground compost, I'm wondering if an "under ground" is such a good idea?? Do you think it makes a difference? and if so, how?

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hendi_alex
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I've not researched any in ground arrangement. But do have to wonder how it would get as much air as with above ground. Also, in my yard which has lots of trees, the roots penetrate into the compost from the ground and make the bottom foot or more absolutely unuseable plus pull so many nutrients out. That is why the concrete pad was poured. Those are the only two potential issues that come to mind. In ground would definitely make for a more tidy arrangement.

Timlin
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I agree that tree roots and air might be a problem but also moisture.......do you have very good drainage? If water were to collect in the hole you might not get a nice quick heat up and turn over to compost.

I have trees all about and grasses that would invade my compost if I didn't have the rubber pad to protect it.

Nothing ventured nothing gained though it might be a great experiment but a lot of extra work too. :)

Curly
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Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Very nice looking arrangement! I thought it had to have some sort of porous bottom in order for the worms to get in. Is that not an essential part? I'll be lloking into starting a new compost bin, so I'd like to know. Thanks.

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hendi_alex
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Worms are not necessary at all for hot composting. IMO they are desireable but not necessary. For relatively cold composting, IMO the worms speed the process considerably. The worms are kelpful even in hot composting, but only stay active away from that hot core. I keep a small worm bed, you may have seen my kettle grill compost topic, and simply add worms from time to time to all of my beds and the compost pile. A never ending supply of worms keeps coming from that kettle grill worm composting arrangement where the table scraps get recycled.

rot
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Bins on pavers laid directly on the ground will allow the worms in. They will block out the tree roots and allow excess moisture to drain into the ground. You can still sweep up after turning. Works for me.

two cents
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