I've read a couple times that when roots come in contact with compost, they can burn.
Is that possible?
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Finished compost shouldn't "burn" (= damage) roots. But unfinished still "hot" compost especially one containing manure could.
If in doubt compost should be worked in beyond the root zone so they can grow into the mellowed compost after some time -- say 3-4 weeks. Or prep the planting bed 3-4 weeks ahead of time.
When planting vegetable transplants like tomatoes, I put a trowel full or two (finished compost) in the bottom of each planting hole.
Some plants' roots are more sensitive. More recently, bare root fruit trees come with instructions NOT to add compost in the planting hole. It's better to spread around the tree or shrub around the drip line then mulch over.
What were you planning to use it for?
If in doubt compost should be worked in beyond the root zone so they can grow into the mellowed compost after some time -- say 3-4 weeks. Or prep the planting bed 3-4 weeks ahead of time.
When planting vegetable transplants like tomatoes, I put a trowel full or two (finished compost) in the bottom of each planting hole.
Some plants' roots are more sensitive. More recently, bare root fruit trees come with instructions NOT to add compost in the planting hole. It's better to spread around the tree or shrub around the drip line then mulch over.
What were you planning to use it for?
Some people plant in compost and have no problem. Seeds will sprout in it but they always die in a few weeks (about 6 weeks they will start to yellow, and stunt). Compost is best worked into the soil or placed on top as mulch, it will eventually get worked in with the next planting. I also found that it is better not to put more than a couple of inches down at one time. I made the mistake of putting down about 4-6 inches. I couldn't blend it well enough with my clay soil so it was like planting in compost. It held too much water, unfortunately so does clay and the plants had problems with yellowing, stunting and rotten roots.
If you are using compost as a mulch or top dressing the same rules apply as for other mulches, which is to make sure you keep the mulch about 4 inches away from the stems of the plants. Unless you are growing tomatoes or leeks, most plants will rot if their stems are buried.
If you are using compost as a mulch or top dressing the same rules apply as for other mulches, which is to make sure you keep the mulch about 4 inches away from the stems of the plants. Unless you are growing tomatoes or leeks, most plants will rot if their stems are buried.
A newbie here, I started my first compost piles this winter.
I read tons whenever I get interested in sometime. Working on the Rodale Composting book, and they do warn that immature compost can have a lot of stuff, including acids, that are harmful to seeds and plants. No mention that it has be from manure. So they recommend testing after completion to ensure your compost is fully mature and has no toxic agents in the mix.
Simplest test is to compare germination of seeds (typically radishes) in the compost and in a control media (over the counter seed starter mix will be fine). If you get poor germination compared to the control, either let the compost age some more or discard and start over.
Florida's extension agents recommend the same germination test for mature compost.
I read tons whenever I get interested in sometime. Working on the Rodale Composting book, and they do warn that immature compost can have a lot of stuff, including acids, that are harmful to seeds and plants. No mention that it has be from manure. So they recommend testing after completion to ensure your compost is fully mature and has no toxic agents in the mix.
Simplest test is to compare germination of seeds (typically radishes) in the compost and in a control media (over the counter seed starter mix will be fine). If you get poor germination compared to the control, either let the compost age some more or discard and start over.
Florida's extension agents recommend the same germination test for mature compost.