Planting new seed in spring
I just for the most part fixed a grub problem with my lawn, that has been plaguing me for about 4 years. Thanks to the help of this forum. I now have a question about the steps to take in the spring. I need to plant seed in some bare spots, I was also encouraged to apply a milky sporum to the grass to kill the last of the grubs, and finally I also fertilize in the spring. So I am wondering what should be done first to last, and the timing in between?
First, take care of your lawn equipment. They should be serviced oil, filter, spark plug, and blades sharpened before the main season begins. I was lucky, to have a service that picked up the lawn mower from my house, serviced and returned it in about a week.
I don't know what kind of grass you have so, it is kinda hard to say what is needed.
In general, all I do is aerate, de-thatch, top dress, and since I have an old lawn all I use for fertilizer is sulfate of ammonia. I do have to clear the grass from around the pop up sprinkler heads because it will grow over them. And I have to keep the grass from invading my borders. Weed as needed. I set a goal of a bucket a week, but really a healthy lawn can crowd out weeds. I will do this in March and again in September. I live in the tropics so grass is dormant in summer.
In March, I will also test the sprinklers and flush the system. I may turn it off during the rainy season. I will set the watering based on the step test. If I step on the grass and I can see a footprint, the grass is really dry, If it feels crunchy, its' dry, if it is medium green and I have to mow it every week, I need to cut the water down. When I water, I will water deeply, to get the clay soil I have moist 3-4 inches down. How much you water will depend on your soil type and how much rain you get.
I really don't have to do patches to the grass. I put in stepping stones along the major pathways that I would take from the front to the back of the yard. It saves on wear and compaction. The grass will grow over the pavers so I do have to edge them frequently. The pavers are set level with the grass and not raised, it makes it easier to walk and mow or pull carts over them. Without the pavers, I would have a track in the grass.
According to a lecture I attended, lawns should be renovated every seven years or so. Lawns here rarely ever get that. Lawns are replaced when a new owner moves in or renovations are done.
Grass is rarely grown from seed here, so it is rarely over seeded. I did find a link to over seeding. This is pretty much what I do twice a year except for the rototilling. I have a small lawn so I use a thatch rake. It is a workout. If you can rent a vertical lawnmower, it is much easier to de-thatch a lawn.
https://www.wikihow.com/Overseed\
https://homeguides.sfgate.com/vertical-mowing-52337.html
I don't know what kind of grass you have so, it is kinda hard to say what is needed.
In general, all I do is aerate, de-thatch, top dress, and since I have an old lawn all I use for fertilizer is sulfate of ammonia. I do have to clear the grass from around the pop up sprinkler heads because it will grow over them. And I have to keep the grass from invading my borders. Weed as needed. I set a goal of a bucket a week, but really a healthy lawn can crowd out weeds. I will do this in March and again in September. I live in the tropics so grass is dormant in summer.
In March, I will also test the sprinklers and flush the system. I may turn it off during the rainy season. I will set the watering based on the step test. If I step on the grass and I can see a footprint, the grass is really dry, If it feels crunchy, its' dry, if it is medium green and I have to mow it every week, I need to cut the water down. When I water, I will water deeply, to get the clay soil I have moist 3-4 inches down. How much you water will depend on your soil type and how much rain you get.
I really don't have to do patches to the grass. I put in stepping stones along the major pathways that I would take from the front to the back of the yard. It saves on wear and compaction. The grass will grow over the pavers so I do have to edge them frequently. The pavers are set level with the grass and not raised, it makes it easier to walk and mow or pull carts over them. Without the pavers, I would have a track in the grass.
According to a lecture I attended, lawns should be renovated every seven years or so. Lawns here rarely ever get that. Lawns are replaced when a new owner moves in or renovations are done.
Grass is rarely grown from seed here, so it is rarely over seeded. I did find a link to over seeding. This is pretty much what I do twice a year except for the rototilling. I have a small lawn so I use a thatch rake. It is a workout. If you can rent a vertical lawnmower, it is much easier to de-thatch a lawn.
https://www.wikihow.com/Overseed\
https://homeguides.sfgate.com/vertical-mowing-52337.html
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rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
It would be nice if you would put your location in your profile, so it will show. I looked up your previous posts and found that you had said you are in Seattle, but it would be nice not to have to do that. So in Seattle with plenty of rain and mildish winters, you can plant grass seed in spring or fall.
I remember the milky spore powder discussion ( https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... 29#p310729 ) and suggesting that now would be a good time to apply it. It is not harmful to your grass seed, so both can be done.
If you are just over-seeding some bare spots, I would go ahead and do it now. Maybe mix in some compost or peat moss in the bare spots to give better texture and moisture holding, rake it hard to make furrows, sow your seed, and cover, step on it or use the back of the rake, to be sure the seed is well in contact with the soil, water lightly (so as not to wash the seed away). Then you will have to water the seed every day that it doesn't rain, until it is sprouted and probably every other day or so after that until it is well rooted in. Don't mow the new grass until it is at least 3 inches tall.
Don't fertilize until spring.
If you haven't done the milky spore powder yet, how did you mostly get rid of the grubs?
I remember the milky spore powder discussion ( https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/vi ... 29#p310729 ) and suggesting that now would be a good time to apply it. It is not harmful to your grass seed, so both can be done.
If you are just over-seeding some bare spots, I would go ahead and do it now. Maybe mix in some compost or peat moss in the bare spots to give better texture and moisture holding, rake it hard to make furrows, sow your seed, and cover, step on it or use the back of the rake, to be sure the seed is well in contact with the soil, water lightly (so as not to wash the seed away). Then you will have to water the seed every day that it doesn't rain, until it is sprouted and probably every other day or so after that until it is well rooted in. Don't mow the new grass until it is at least 3 inches tall.
Don't fertilize until spring.
If you haven't done the milky spore powder yet, how did you mostly get rid of the grubs?
I apologize for not having my profile filled out, you are correct I'm in Seattle. I will plant the seeds now then.
I wanted to be aggressive with the grubs, so I used the Bayer advanced grub killer. But I was told to use it only once, and then follow up in the spring with a milky spores product. For the most part I do have a green lawn again, except for a few dead/bare spots. I know the Bayer grub killer was not Your suggestion, but I had become very impatient over the last 5 years, of starting with a great lawn and then by the middle of summer, just having a dead field for a front lawn. it is nice to have a green lawn back before winter. The milky spores You suggested to me, were also suggested by another person, as follow up in the spring. just to make sure I have taken care of my grub problem. I appreciate your feed back and help
I wanted to be aggressive with the grubs, so I used the Bayer advanced grub killer. But I was told to use it only once, and then follow up in the spring with a milky spores product. For the most part I do have a green lawn again, except for a few dead/bare spots. I know the Bayer grub killer was not Your suggestion, but I had become very impatient over the last 5 years, of starting with a great lawn and then by the middle of summer, just having a dead field for a front lawn. it is nice to have a green lawn back before winter. The milky spores You suggested to me, were also suggested by another person, as follow up in the spring. just to make sure I have taken care of my grub problem. I appreciate your feed back and help