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Hi all - we just bought our home this past January in NY (Long Island south shore) and love it and it appears the previous owners planted a bunch of stuff that is beginning to pop up and took fair care of the lawn and shrubs but now it's all on me lol. I have mowed, spread some grass seed by hand and watered a lawn in the past but that it. It isn't a huge amount of property but nonetheless, I never really did this stuff so here are my questions.

There seems to be a good amount of moss growing in one area that doesn't get a lot of sun - is this something to worry about? Is there an easy way to get rid of it?

I am going to buy a 23" mower, leaf blower, hedge trimmer, weed wacker, rake, shovel, spreader....what else is needed for normal lawn maintenance?

Previous owners have a lot of ivy growing on a fence but some looks dead, is ivy something I should fear? I personally like the way ivy looks but it seems part of where it grew has died...Can I just plant ivy in those missing patches to fill the area?

I see things like lawn food that you spray from the hose - is this really going to help?

The moss will grow in the shade and kill the grass, you can use moss out on it, but you could try using lime to change the PH, moss likes acid soil. You could rent a Thatcher and it would pull up most of the moss. Get some shady grass seed for the area.
Ivy is bad news, it is a tree killer and invasive plants, read the forum for ways to kill it, but do kill it.
You could add a hoe to weed the beds; you could get a pointy hoe, or a weed puller to pull weeds from your lawn, if you want to cut down on poisoning the soil.

You can get rid of the moss with various moss killers (just check your local garden supply store (lowes, menards etc.) You will have a hard time getting grass to grow in an area that is shady most of the time. I would recommend a shade loving plants and ground covers for that area once you kill the moss like Vinca (periwinkle), Lily of the Valley, Ferns, Astilbe, Hostas, Hydrangeas etc.

As far as the ivy is concerned if you like it keep it. If it gets into an area of ground that you don't like just mow over it. If its climbing on a building it can damage the structure over time. It will destroy the mortar between bricks and get under vinyl or wood siding so just be aware of that. If its in an area where it can't damage anything you might want then I say keep it. It can be very aesthetically pleasing in the right circumstances.

When it comes to grass just remember three things: Water, fertilize and cut the grass high (2 inches or higher). Grass needs about an inch of water per week. If you use a sprinkler then set up some empty cans or buckets around the perimeter of the sprinkler within the range of the water and turn on the sprinkler. Make note of the time when you set the containers out and then check the containers every 30 minutes. Measure the water in the containers and when you have an inch of water in them and you make note of the time you will know how long to leave your sprinkler on to deliver one inch of water.

When fertilizing use a fertilizer with the first number at least 20 and a the third number around 5 give or take. The second number isn't that important. (fertilizers have 3 numbers on the bag like 12-12-12 or 20-0-5.) These numbers represent Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in that order. These are the three main nutrients plants use. Nitrogen for the leaves and green color and potassium for strong roots. Phosphorus is used for flowering...you don't want your grass to flower. Fertilize your lawn with granulated fertilizers not liquid spray on types. The liquid fertilizers give the lawn a quick dose of food but doesn't last very long and you will have to do it once a month. Using a granulated fertilizer you can fertilize once in the spring (now or within the next month) and then once in the fall. For fall fertilizing use a fertilizer with a higher 3rd number. This will promote strong root growth over the winter (a 12-12-12 would be a good one for fall). Fertilize in the fall around November.

As far as cutting make sure you cut your grass high. By cutting your grass high (2 inches or more) this helps to shade out any weed seeds and keeps them from germinating. When you cut your grass really low it stresses the grass and allows weeds to take hold.

Once you get your lawn established and growing thick and healthy it will actually be able to withstand drought better and less fertilizing. Good Luck! I hope this helps and wasn't too long!

Hi, alvysyngr! Welcome to The Helpful Gardener.

Please be sure to take a look at this discussion on organic lawn care, at the top of the Lawn Forum. I've never had a lawn (well, unless you consider a 10' x 10' patch a "lawn"), so my experience is minimal in this regard, but the discussion has some very helpful aspects, esp. if you've done any gardening previously.

Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9

Shade wrote: When fertilizing use a fertilizer with the first number at least 20 and a the third number around 5 give or take. The second number isn't that important. (fertilizers have 3 numbers on the bag like 12-12-12 or 20-0-5.) These numbers represent Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in that order. These are the three main nutrients plants use. Nitrogen for the leaves and green color and potassium for strong roots. Phosphorus is used for flowering...you don't want your grass to flower. Fertilize your lawn with granulated fertilizers not liquid spray on types. The liquid fertilizers give the lawn a quick dose of food but doesn't last very long and you will have to do it once a month. Using a granulated fertilizer you can fertilize once in the spring (now or within the next month) and then once in the fall. For fall fertilizing use a fertilizer with a higher 3rd number. This will promote strong root growth over the winter (a 12-12-12 would be a good one for fall). Fertilize in the fall around November.

Just want to clarify that the middle number is important, and it is for root development. A high middle number (such as 24) in the fall on grass is what makes something a "starter fertilizer" A typical starter fertilizer would be 18-24-12 for the fall on tall fescue.

A typical spring number would 18-0-5, since you are concentrating on greening up the lawn with a high nitrogen (first number) fertilizer.

Just want to clarify that the middle number is important, and it is for root development. A high middle number (such as 24) in the fall on grass is what makes something a "starter fertilizer" A typical starter fertilizer would be 18-24-12 for the fall on tall fescue.

A typical spring number would 18-0-5, since you are concentrating on greening up the lawn with a high nitrogen (first number) fertilizer.[/quote]



The quote above by TheRock is actually not correct. It is not phosphorus that is the main nutrient for root growth but Potassium the third number in the bag of fertilizer. Phosphorus is a main nutrient used for flowering. You want a high number on the 3rd number for root growth. Potassium is second only to nitrogen in importance.

https://www.turf.uiuc.edu/extension/ext-fert.html
https://jimmcafee.tamu.edu/files/potassi ... growth.pdf