I have a lawn that has different issues. I have weeds, some clumps of things that I can't tell weather or not it's weeds or some kind of grass, patches in the front where not much grass is growing at all, and in the backyard I have thicker grass. I bought some new seed to put down in the front and I also bought some Scott's weed and feed to put down. Problem is which do I do first? How do I identify the different kinds of things growing on my lawn? I read the directions for the weed and feed and it said that you have to put it on the lawn like early in the morning when there is dew on the lawn and then you have to make sure there will be about two days before you have any new rain. That has been very difficult because it seems like lately it rains every day. My lawn looks pretty bad right now and I would like to have a nice lawn, but I also don't want to break the bank or use chemicals that will be bad for the environment. I don't know, but maybe the weed and feed was a bad choice.
Any help is appreciated!
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NewbieGardner
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- Location: Indianapolis, In
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vintagejuls
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Lawns are water hogs 
It sounds to me like your lawn has been deprived of water. If you have dirt, plant the seed and water that area a little bit every day (but NO Weed & Feed there).
For the remainer of the lawn which you think is some weeds and clumps (crabgrass probably), use the weed and feed early in the morning since the lawn is moist with dew and then water right after; proceed with daily or every other day waterings. If watering daily, just 5 minutes will do. Weed and feed is all nitrogen which grass loves; so applying the nitrogen makes the grass grow and squeezes out the weeds. But since grass is a water hog you have to give it lots of water and then once your lawn is established you can back off on the watering some (1X a week). After applying the lawn food or weed & feed (nitrogen rich), the grass requires water to avoid burning which will cause yellowing. So make sure the grass is moist and the weather cool before you feed it anything. I've made the mistake of applying lawn food when it was too warm.
Another tip is how you mow your lawn. Mowing your lawn too low opens it up for weeds. Depending on how many bare spots you have or clumps, let it grow out so you can get an idea of how and what is growing.
I'm new to lawn care but have had much success with my suggestion here. You will see results in 30days or so.
Good luck and keep us posted.
It sounds to me like your lawn has been deprived of water. If you have dirt, plant the seed and water that area a little bit every day (but NO Weed & Feed there).
For the remainer of the lawn which you think is some weeds and clumps (crabgrass probably), use the weed and feed early in the morning since the lawn is moist with dew and then water right after; proceed with daily or every other day waterings. If watering daily, just 5 minutes will do. Weed and feed is all nitrogen which grass loves; so applying the nitrogen makes the grass grow and squeezes out the weeds. But since grass is a water hog you have to give it lots of water and then once your lawn is established you can back off on the watering some (1X a week). After applying the lawn food or weed & feed (nitrogen rich), the grass requires water to avoid burning which will cause yellowing. So make sure the grass is moist and the weather cool before you feed it anything. I've made the mistake of applying lawn food when it was too warm.
Another tip is how you mow your lawn. Mowing your lawn too low opens it up for weeds. Depending on how many bare spots you have or clumps, let it grow out so you can get an idea of how and what is growing.
I'm new to lawn care but have had much success with my suggestion here. You will see results in 30days or so.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Newbiegardner, you have to choose which one you want to do at this time - seed or control weeds. Doing both is an impossible task. Also, I'd say it is too late to start trying to grow grass anyway. Normally, it's something that begins earlier in spring, and this is May already. The major problem is impending high temperatures, whereas the new grass won't have time to establish its roots system good before having to deal with high temps. Besides, the best time to seed is fall. It can be done in spring, but you can expect better results doing it in early fall between mid-August and mid-September.
I expect you are growing Kentucky Bluegrass there in Indiana. You might have fescue, but I kind of doubt it. If you know what type of grass you have, please let us know. If I'm right and it is Bluegrass, I don't think you have to worry about the bald spots for long. When properly maintained (as the maintenance schedule will help you do), Bluegrass will grow to fill in empty spots. You might look up in the fall and decide you don't really have to overseed afterall.
Ordinarily, I don't recommend using weed-n-feed combo products, but you have it so you might as well use it. Just make sure the product is labeled for broadleaf weeds like dandelion and clover. Follow instructions on the label for when and how to apply and heed the rain specifications. No one should offer advice that differs from what the label tells you. If this is a particularly high rainy season, then hold off on applying.
I expect you are growing Kentucky Bluegrass there in Indiana. You might have fescue, but I kind of doubt it. If you know what type of grass you have, please let us know. If I'm right and it is Bluegrass, I don't think you have to worry about the bald spots for long. When properly maintained (as the maintenance schedule will help you do), Bluegrass will grow to fill in empty spots. You might look up in the fall and decide you don't really have to overseed afterall.
Ordinarily, I don't recommend using weed-n-feed combo products, but you have it so you might as well use it. Just make sure the product is labeled for broadleaf weeds like dandelion and clover. Follow instructions on the label for when and how to apply and heed the rain specifications. No one should offer advice that differs from what the label tells you. If this is a particularly high rainy season, then hold off on applying.
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NewbieGardner
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- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 6:07 pm
- Location: Indianapolis, In
Thanks for the responses. I used the weed and feed and it didn't cover very much before I ran out. Not sure if I should go out and buy more to cover the rest of my lawn or if I should just keep it all cut for now. I'm not sure what kind of grass I have. It's almost like I have different kinds. Some places I have thick soft grass and other places it is a rougher kind of grass. I could try to take some pictures. I will look at the schedule. I just wish there weren't so many weeds. They look awful. Do you think I should buy more weed and feed to cover the rest of the lawn? Or is there something else I can use for all the weeds?
Thanks again,
NG
Thanks again,
NG
I'm very sorry, NG, but I can't tell you if you should purchase more or not. I don't know the size of the bag you bought and also don't know the size of your lawn. I don't know if you used too much since you said you ran out, and I don't know if you need more. The instructions on the bag tell you how much to apply and offers the settings on your spreader. You'll have to heed those.
There are herbicides independent of fertilizer. I normally people use those rather than combos. They work better and they're easier to apply with less guess work. Weed-b-Gon and Bayer Advanced are two that I know about. The maintenance schedule will also help control the weeds because it helps you to properly maintain the grass so it grows healthy and thicker and is able to crowd weeds.
Don't worry about pictures. I can't tell from looking unless they are extremely close so I can see the ligule and auricle and such, but you can identify them if you like. [url=https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/turfid/ItemID.aspx?orderID=GR&orderDesc=Grass]This site[/url] can help you examine the characteristic parts. Check the Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass, and the Fescue (tall). You remind me that you are likely right about the different types. Cool season grasses are very often mixed together in a lawn, and they are normally Tall Fescue, Bluegrass, and Ryegrass. Nothing you can do about having different types unless you get rid of all of it and start from scratch, but the maintenance schedule will guide you in bringing the lawn into better condition and appearance.
Hope I helped. Let me now if you have other questions.
There are herbicides independent of fertilizer. I normally people use those rather than combos. They work better and they're easier to apply with less guess work. Weed-b-Gon and Bayer Advanced are two that I know about. The maintenance schedule will also help control the weeds because it helps you to properly maintain the grass so it grows healthy and thicker and is able to crowd weeds.
Don't worry about pictures. I can't tell from looking unless they are extremely close so I can see the ligule and auricle and such, but you can identify them if you like. [url=https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/turfid/ItemID.aspx?orderID=GR&orderDesc=Grass]This site[/url] can help you examine the characteristic parts. Check the Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass, and the Fescue (tall). You remind me that you are likely right about the different types. Cool season grasses are very often mixed together in a lawn, and they are normally Tall Fescue, Bluegrass, and Ryegrass. Nothing you can do about having different types unless you get rid of all of it and start from scratch, but the maintenance schedule will guide you in bringing the lawn into better condition and appearance.
Hope I helped. Let me now if you have other questions.
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NewbieGardner
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- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 6:07 pm
- Location: Indianapolis, In
BL,
I followed the directions very carefully. I just really don't know how big my yard is and I didn't buy enough. I guess what I was trying to ask is should I finish my yard with what I have used on part of my yard, or would it be okay to switch to something else to treat the rest of my yard? I'm just wondering if the Bayer product might be easier to use. Can you tell me when I go to seed in the fall how I prepare the lawn for seeding? I have never planted grass seed before.
Thanks so much for all of your help,
NG
I followed the directions very carefully. I just really don't know how big my yard is and I didn't buy enough. I guess what I was trying to ask is should I finish my yard with what I have used on part of my yard, or would it be okay to switch to something else to treat the rest of my yard? I'm just wondering if the Bayer product might be easier to use. Can you tell me when I go to seed in the fall how I prepare the lawn for seeding? I have never planted grass seed before.
Thanks so much for all of your help,
NG
Oh, I understand now. So, yes you can switch, but that means the part of the lawn you missed won't get any fertilizer. So will you also finish fertilizing with a product that is not a combo? You can if you want to, but I do recommend you finish fertilizing whichever product you use. Or, you'll be able to tell the difference in a week or two between the areas that did get fertilizer and those that didn't. Two different color grasses LOL, although that will only be temporary for a few weeks. And yes,
Just in case you were thinking about overseeding your lawn, please don't. You have recognized a hodgepodge of different grass types and it doesn't look so good. You're already experiencing the near impossibility of trying to manage a hodgepodge lawn. Overseeding into it will add more different ones and only make it worse. The labor that is required for overseeding is the same for starting new. The only difference in cost is the price of the herbicide product. The seed selections in the article I linked are elite Bluegrass. They are the best and were bred for appearance, general overall disease resistance, and to reduce manager input, so you won't have to irrigate as much, nor will you have to mow as often.
If you don't want to use Roundup, then the organic vinegar should do the trick. I don't know of anyone who used the vinegar for an entire kill, but I don't expect you will have a problem with it.
However, if you do use Roundup, read the label very carefully. You want the one with the only active ingredient is glyphosate. You do not want the one that contains other herbicides. Those others will prevent your seeds from germinating. It's not difficult to know the difference. You just have to be sure to select the right one.
Even though you plan to seed in the fall, still follow the maintenance schedule up to then. It will help condition the soil. Your grass and your seeding success starts with and depends on the soil.
Just in case you were thinking about overseeding your lawn, please don't. You have recognized a hodgepodge of different grass types and it doesn't look so good. You're already experiencing the near impossibility of trying to manage a hodgepodge lawn. Overseeding into it will add more different ones and only make it worse. The labor that is required for overseeding is the same for starting new. The only difference in cost is the price of the herbicide product. The seed selections in the article I linked are elite Bluegrass. They are the best and were bred for appearance, general overall disease resistance, and to reduce manager input, so you won't have to irrigate as much, nor will you have to mow as often.
If you don't want to use Roundup, then the organic vinegar should do the trick. I don't know of anyone who used the vinegar for an entire kill, but I don't expect you will have a problem with it.
However, if you do use Roundup, read the label very carefully. You want the one with the only active ingredient is glyphosate. You do not want the one that contains other herbicides. Those others will prevent your seeds from germinating. It's not difficult to know the difference. You just have to be sure to select the right one.
Even though you plan to seed in the fall, still follow the maintenance schedule up to then. It will help condition the soil. Your grass and your seeding success starts with and depends on the soil.