Fertilize Questions

[msalcido]

Hi all,
Is it time to fertilize the hydrangeas? Also, what is the best brand of fertizlizer? Is there an organic one that can be used?

As always all advise is greatly appreciated.


Thanks!

[luis_pr]

In the South, you can fertilize twice a year; around May and again in June-July. In the North, where the growing season is shorter, you can fertilize once in July.

You can use a general-purpose slow-release fertilizer with a NPK Ratio of around 10-10-10 (like Osmocote), or you can use composted manure or cottonseed meal.

[msalcido]

As usual - Thanks Luis!

I'm going to put coffee grounds into the soil and then in April, I'll fertilize with cottonseed meal. Funny thing is I'm going to have to order it online. I can't find any in the stores around me!


Thanks again!

[luis_pr]

I know how you feel. Starbucks closed their store closest to me due to TX-121 Construction. That used to be MY source of coffee grounds as I do not make coffee at home. My next closest store is out of the way so I now frequent a store close to work on weekdays instead. But that next closest store is ok for my Sunday travels which include looking for coffee grounds. Ask the store employees when they usually have a big supply and visit the stores at those times if you can.

[msalcido]

LOL...I was talking about ordering the cottonseed meal online...

Coffee grounds I have no problem with, we drink a ton of coffee so there is no short supply of that!

Can't find the cottonseed meal anywhere though! Found azaelea food which has cottonseed in it but not sure how well that will work....

[msalcido]

Hey so I found it! Went into this tiny little nursery in Lindale (East Tx) and they had Cottonseed meal - funny thing - the worker said "what is with this, everyone has come in buying this stuff today!"

Glad I was able to find it!

[msalcido]

Hey Luis (or anyone else who can help)

I was reading the label of the Oscomote and it has a NPK ratio of 16-12-6. Isn't this high? I bought the cottonseed meal which is ALOT lower; however I was told that it would keep the blooms pink?

Please let me know your thoughts.


Thanks!

[luis_pr]

I am not sure what is the logic being used regarding cottonseed meal and pink blooms. Pink blooms are a result of (1) alkaline soils and organic fertilizers normally do not affect the pH of the soil and (2) the amount of naturally occuring aluminum in the soil. So go ahead with the cottonseed meal. I am about to apply a huge bag of the stuff soon. I just wish we had some rain to go with the fertilizer though! Ha! I need to give a shot of the stuff to roses and other bushes.

There are several types of Osmocote fertilizer bottle variations out there. Look for one that is average, where the NPK Numbers are the same. I always use slightly more than half what the chemical fertilizers suggest we use. That is, if they say to apply a ton, I apply a little more than half a ton.

[msalcido]

Thanks Luis - odd thing is I was told this by the lady who sold me the hydrangeas. A very reputable Hydrangea grower. I thought it strange as well.

I will go ahead with the cottonseed meal, probably going to apply it next weekend. What's the reasoning for adding more of the chemical fertilizer? Is it because it's low in nutrients

[luis_pr]

Well, hydrangeas are not heavy feeders and do not require feeding much or often so just a little goes a long way. The only exception would be if the soil being fertilized has some mineral defficiencies such as having little nitrogen, pottasium, etc. If your soil has adequate amounts of NPK and trace elements, you do not even need to fertilize. I have had years when I plumb forgot to fertilize the hydrangeas (and other shrubs) and no plants died of "malnutrition".

[msalcido]

Thanks Luis!

[msalcido]

so I could not find Oscomote in a low NPK version. I did find Miracle Gro Shake 'n Feed. It's ratio is 10-10-10. It also has 20% of total Sulfur (4.0% combined and 16.0% free Sulfur).

Nowhere did you mention anything about Sulfur. Will it be OK to use this product?

[luis_pr]

I have not used the product before but it sounds like it is similar to Osmocote. The sulphur (an amendment, not a fertilizer) included should be fine. It may allow you to control problems due to to our alkaline soils. I find I have to amend the soil twice a year: in Spring and again during either the middle of Summer, late Summer or early Fall.

[msalcido]

Thanks Luis. I used it to see how it does. I used it for mostly the ones in ground but did use it on two potted hydrangeas. I guess we will see.

I'm now having trouble with them yellowing out. It's weird...It doesn't look like iron deficiancy. I'll try and post a pic later on today.


Have a great day.

[luis_pr]

If it looks like the leaves are completely yellowing out (including the leaf veins), the leaves may be getting too much sun.

[Happy Outside]

Definitely fertilize before new growth. Schultz makes an acid-loving fertilizer thats pretty good.

[msalcido]

If it looks like the leaves are completely yellowing out (including the leaf veins), the leaves may be getting too much sun.

Not sure what is going on with these two. The first is an Amethyst and second is Lady In Red. I don't think they are getting too much sun. The Amethyst is in ground, LIR is in a pot. Also you can see the tears in the LIR, which is from the hail storm we had last week.

[img]https://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll196/mlsalcido/Hydrangeas/IMG_0509.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll196/mlsalcido/Hydrangeas/IMG_0511.jpg[/img]

As always any and all advice is appreciated.

[msalcido]

Definitely fertilize before new growth. Schultz makes an acid-loving fertilizer thats pretty good.

Hi Happy!

What's the reasoning for fertilzing before new growth?

[luis_pr]

Odd looking Mike. I would try to raise the soil pH of the potting mix so it is more acidic. Have you used fungicides or insecticides nearby? Winter damage can cause some curling and shriveling in leaves but I have not seen it here (it is too warm)

[msalcido]

I'll try that; but what about the one in ground? I haven't used any fungicides or insecticideds at all.

Both plants are growing and the Amethyst has blooms all over it. LIR does not. I do have the Amethyst planted near (about 1-2 ft) the air conditioner unit do you think this has anything to do with it?

[luis_pr]

The a/c can make the area windy, probably dry and with low humidity. Great for killing powdery mildew spores but not sure why the leaves look like that. Keep them under observation for any changes. Is the soil dry? Is it getting periods of dry followed by periods of moist? Have you ammended the soil with any products lately?

[msalcido]

It's not dry that I'm sure of. I check for dryness every other day and it's getting sufficient water. You do pose an interesting theroy though. I'm wondering if the AC is zapping it because it does cause air around the plant and I have been concerned about that.

Since it's in bloom should I leave it or do you think I should transplant?

Thanks again!

[luis_pr]

You know, that is a tough question as weird as that may sound. On the one hand, the broccoli florets are now developing. Transplanting now will make the shrub abort some so you may loose some or all as transplant shock sets in. On the other hand, you could delay and do it later of course. If you do it after it has bloomed, you still loose some or all blooms but at least you get to see the blooms. "After it has a bloomed" is a long time when it comes to hydrangeas. Exactly when to move it is your choice of course. You could do it in May or wait until the Fall/Winter which is less stressful. But hydrangeas begin to get summer stress here starting in May when temperatures in the upper 90s are common. Which means the a/c works full time starting in May. And that is the reason you are moving it.

Hmmm, try moving it now. Summer stress is around the corner but has not set in. The shrub is kind-of sort-of newly planted so, when you dig to get it out, dig wide enough so you can get almost all the roots that it has developed since planted. This will reduce transplant shock some and allow you to get some bloomage. Water it the night before moving and try to make sure the root ball does not break up when moving. Good luck!

[msalcido]

Hi Luis,
I was checking it out today and it seems to be greening up. Although the AC is blowing air around it, I don't think it's doing much harm to it. I don't want to stress it out by moving it right now.

I think I'm going to wait until it goes dormant but of course during the summertime I will pay close attention to it to make sure it's doing good.


I'll keep you posted!

[msalcido]

UPDATE****** The LIR is doing fantastic. Has almost doubled in size; however no blooms yet (hopefully it will). The Amethyst is still growing and blooming; however the blooms went from looking normal to looking almost very gummy. When I touched one it completely fell off and was kind of sticky?? It has new blooms on it and is growing so not sure what is going on with it.

Any thoughts?

[luis_pr]

Sounds like oportunistic pests like aphids came into the picture. Aphids excrete honeydew which may account for the sticky and gummy feeling. The honeydew (by itself) attracts ants so you may see these as well. Aphids, while not damaging to hydrangeas, are very common in all shrubs this time of the year. I am not sure why the bloom fell off but some of the oakleaf blooms can be torn off by strong winds during severe weather. You can release beneficial insects to combat aphids or apply a strong jet of water to the affected shrubs. If that does not help,
mix 1 tsp. insecticidal soap, 1/2 tsp. horticultural oil in 1 quart water in a spray bottle and let them have it.

[msalcido]

Thanks Luis. While checking out the plant I did not see any signs of aphids or any other insects. It's quite dumbfounding as all other elements are good, I.e.. moisture, soil, etc....

I'm seriously thinking about moving it, just not sure it is a good idea with the temps already in the 90's - your thoughts? Do I move it or wait until the fall or when it's dormant?

[luis_pr]

Not surprising; aphids tend to be more active at night so check around .... 9pm? 10pm? or later?