I read it Southern Lving magazine that it it ce grown from a cutting.
Can someone eloborate me on this ?
Thank you
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WINSTON1425
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I'm not familiar with the Southern Living article, but I do know that Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle' and the macrophylla Hydrangeas root easily. A proper system though, would include a misting bench. Dipping the cuttings in rooting hormone helps also.
These plants can also be propagated by 'air-layering' which is good for just a few new plants. You basically wrap wet peat moss in plastic wrap around a branch, and the branch will send out roots within a couple weeks. Lots of info available if you google 'air layering'.
You could also use a sharp spade and slice off a piece of the plant at the crown. This is best done in early spring.
These plants can also be propagated by 'air-layering' which is good for just a few new plants. You basically wrap wet peat moss in plastic wrap around a branch, and the branch will send out roots within a couple weeks. Lots of info available if you google 'air layering'.
You could also use a sharp spade and slice off a piece of the plant at the crown. This is best done in early spring.
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barefootgardener
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I have rooted numerous macro hydrangea from cuttings with at least 75% success rate. Last summer I just kept a very large pot of moist but not wet potting soil getting dappled morning sun under a dogwood tree. I'd pinch off a cutting from time to time and just stick it down in the soil. Most of the time they'd make it fine. I did observe that more mature, semi-woody cuttings start much better than newish, green cuttings. I think this latter was the thing that helped most of all. But, of course, quality of soil and amount of moisture are alway important.
Several of the plants I started early last year have buds set to bloom this spring. I'm excited!
Several of the plants I started early last year have buds set to bloom this spring. I'm excited!
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applestar
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H. macrophylla was the first plant I learned to propagate from cutting. 
Diligently following instructions, I had no idea why I had to trim all the leaves except two, then cut off 1/2 of each of those leaves, but that's how it's done.
Typically with any cutting, the roots are most likely to grow from the leaf nodes, so I usually cut just below one node, and trim leaves so another node will also be buried in the soil, with at least one leaf node above the soil (so we're looking at 3 nodes per cutting, minimum). Most of the time (but not always), you get more vigorous plant from the 2nd set of 3 nodes from the tip, rather than the tip cutting. (I think we're talking about the same or similar thing here, barefoot) In other words, you have the tip, and two nodes to grow roots, then, if the branch is long enough, you get another 3 nodes -- this 2nd cutting is the one more likely to succeed.
>>--+--+- | --+--+--+-
You would trim the top of the second set so the cut is just above the node
>>--+--+- | -- | +--+--+-
Putting a plastic bag with corners cut off, or a cut off 2L soda bottle or a 1 gal milk jug with the cap removed helps to maintain humidity.
Diligently following instructions, I had no idea why I had to trim all the leaves except two, then cut off 1/2 of each of those leaves, but that's how it's done.
Typically with any cutting, the roots are most likely to grow from the leaf nodes, so I usually cut just below one node, and trim leaves so another node will also be buried in the soil, with at least one leaf node above the soil (so we're looking at 3 nodes per cutting, minimum). Most of the time (but not always), you get more vigorous plant from the 2nd set of 3 nodes from the tip, rather than the tip cutting. (I think we're talking about the same or similar thing here, barefoot) In other words, you have the tip, and two nodes to grow roots, then, if the branch is long enough, you get another 3 nodes -- this 2nd cutting is the one more likely to succeed.
>>--+--+- | --+--+--+-
You would trim the top of the second set so the cut is just above the node
>>--+--+- | -- | +--+--+-
Putting a plastic bag with corners cut off, or a cut off 2L soda bottle or a 1 gal milk jug with the cap removed helps to maintain humidity.
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mentalnotes
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rainbowgardener
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Here's an article about propagating hydrangea. If you scroll down near the bottom it talks about ground layering, which does work. It doesn't mention air layering, but since hydrangeas do root easily, that might work also. I haven't tried it. I have an oak leaf hydrangea, that I think I will try the ground layering thing on this season, since I don't seem to be real good with cuttings.
https://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/propagation.html
No, you would not want to expose your cutting to direct sunlight until it is well established. Hydrangeas, even mature ones, in general don't like full sun any way.
Peat moss is available in any garden center and is not particularly expensive.
https://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/propagation.html
No, you would not want to expose your cutting to direct sunlight until it is well established. Hydrangeas, even mature ones, in general don't like full sun any way.
Peat moss is available in any garden center and is not particularly expensive.
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luis_pr
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Oh, yes. You can very easily air layer hydrangeas in 5-6 weeks during the growing season. Just make sure that the shrub is not patented.
Here is a link to a program called Gardening in Georgia in which they taped Walter Reeves showing exactly how to do it. Here is a link:
https://www.gpb.org/gardeningingeorgia/2009/6/13
Click on the word Watch or on the television symbol first and then click play to start viewing the show.
Enjoy,
Luis
Here is a link to a program called Gardening in Georgia in which they taped Walter Reeves showing exactly how to do it. Here is a link:
https://www.gpb.org/gardeningingeorgia/2009/6/13
Click on the word Watch or on the television symbol first and then click play to start viewing the show.
Enjoy,
Luis
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cissy jackson
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I hope U all don't mind my butting in here. What is this root hormon U are talking about? Can I get this at Lowe's? I would love to try and get some starts off hydrangias I have in the drive. I have deer problems and they love to eat them. I am battling them right now but I have some plants coming up now and want to try some starts now if I can. Thanx for helping. Cis
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luis_pr
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Hello, cissy. You are going to love this answer... a definite maybe. Today I stopped at two Lowes in my area and one had rooting hormone and the other one did not!!!! Go figure. Local nurseries may be a better bet.
Rooting hormone usually contains indolebutyric acid, which will make rooting easier when you dip a cutting in the rooting hormone. Rooting hormones come in several "flavors" that I call strong, medium and weak. I would use the "weak" one with plants like azaleas and rhododendrons since they have tiny fibruous roots. For hydrangeas, I would use a medium hormone.
Rooting hormone usually contains indolebutyric acid, which will make rooting easier when you dip a cutting in the rooting hormone. Rooting hormones come in several "flavors" that I call strong, medium and weak. I would use the "weak" one with plants like azaleas and rhododendrons since they have tiny fibruous roots. For hydrangeas, I would use a medium hormone.
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cissy jackson
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Have a nice day. Cis
I have started them several ways from cuttings:
(1) Standard method is about a six inch dormant stem in a good size pot with good soil
(2) Gave my mother a bouquet of hydrangea one year. She keeps them in water on her table for several days, and then decides to put them in a pot. She has a green thumb but those cuttings in the springtime thrived and are planted in her yard today.
(3) One year I had an area where I wanted several plants to cover the area west of my house. It was about January or February (plants were dormant). I took my tiller and just dug rows or trenches, pulled the dirt back a bit to make a furrow, cut the hydrangea stems to about six inches, and laid them in the ground like you would do sugar cane. I covered them back up, and today the area is filled with hyrdrangea. They are so thick that I yearly dig up several plants to give away.
(4) My son lives in Virginia. He and his family are visiting one Christmas and they want some hyrdrangea. So we cut several stems, leave them long for now, wrap in newspaper, water, and wrap in a garbage bag. They haul them from Alabama to Virginia. He cuts the stems to about six inches and places them in the ground like #3 above. He has some left over and sticks them upright in the ground at the ends of the rows of plantings. They all lived, this will be their second season and he says they are full of blooms.
The picture below shows a large plant this is about 8 years old. It was the runt from a group I had in pots, and I decided to just throw it on the bank below my garden. It is the first to bloom each year. It looks beautiful this year, ready to bloom, but this is from 2008,
[img]https://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/lakngulf/Picture007.jpg[/img]
(1) Standard method is about a six inch dormant stem in a good size pot with good soil
(2) Gave my mother a bouquet of hydrangea one year. She keeps them in water on her table for several days, and then decides to put them in a pot. She has a green thumb but those cuttings in the springtime thrived and are planted in her yard today.
(3) One year I had an area where I wanted several plants to cover the area west of my house. It was about January or February (plants were dormant). I took my tiller and just dug rows or trenches, pulled the dirt back a bit to make a furrow, cut the hydrangea stems to about six inches, and laid them in the ground like you would do sugar cane. I covered them back up, and today the area is filled with hyrdrangea. They are so thick that I yearly dig up several plants to give away.
(4) My son lives in Virginia. He and his family are visiting one Christmas and they want some hyrdrangea. So we cut several stems, leave them long for now, wrap in newspaper, water, and wrap in a garbage bag. They haul them from Alabama to Virginia. He cuts the stems to about six inches and places them in the ground like #3 above. He has some left over and sticks them upright in the ground at the ends of the rows of plantings. They all lived, this will be their second season and he says they are full of blooms.
The picture below shows a large plant this is about 8 years old. It was the runt from a group I had in pots, and I decided to just throw it on the bank below my garden. It is the first to bloom each year. It looks beautiful this year, ready to bloom, but this is from 2008,
[img]https://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/lakngulf/Picture007.jpg[/img]
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luis_pr
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You can. There are several strengths of rooting hormones. If the product that you are planning to buy has them, go with one that has what I often call "medium strength". If the store only has a "small" strength version, I would use it but I prefer to use that one only with shrubs like azaleas and rhododendron whose roots are very tiny and fibrous.
You should not use rooting hormone with food producing plants; check the r/h label for additional information. Note that woody cuttings benefit more from powderish hormones while greenwood cuttings benefit more from liquid hormones. Specifics: well, weeping willow trees produce their own rooting hormones so do not use r/h with them; some people have reported rotting of figs and problems with coleous plants when they use r/h so research that before using.
I usually look for products containing indolebutyric acid. But you could also use honey or boil some willow branches in water. I have read about these but not used them, mind you (too lazy).
You should not use rooting hormone with food producing plants; check the r/h label for additional information. Note that woody cuttings benefit more from powderish hormones while greenwood cuttings benefit more from liquid hormones. Specifics: well, weeping willow trees produce their own rooting hormones so do not use r/h with them; some people have reported rotting of figs and problems with coleous plants when they use r/h so research that before using.
I usually look for products containing indolebutyric acid. But you could also use honey or boil some willow branches in water. I have read about these but not used them, mind you (too lazy).