I've read that hydrangeas need cooler temperatures but some of my neighbors have beautiful hydrangea bushes in their gardens here in Puerto Rico... so my question is :
what can I do to grow them too ? What hydrangeas are the best for this climate ?
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BarbaraParis
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luis_pr
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Well, hydrangeas mostly originated in southern and eastern Asia, from places like Japan, China, Korea, Indonesia, Vietnam (but also in North and South America). The weather in those areas covers a plethora of climates but they grow mostly in the tropical regions. It is therefore not surprising to see hydrangeas -especially mopheads (called Hortensias)- growing in Puerto Rico as well. Next time that you see a map of the world, notice that the Tropic of Cancer passes through this huge SE Asia region. Then observe that the Tropic of Cancer also passes a little north of Puerto Rico.
If you want to see hydrangeas from even further south, check Hydrangea seemanii, an evergreen climber native to Mexico or Hydrangea serratifolia, another hydrangea climber native to the Chile-Argentina region (see a picture here: https://www.chileflora.com/Florachilena/FloraEnglish/HighResPages/EH0223.htm ).
Mopheads (also called H. macrophyllas) should enjoy being planted in a location where they can get early morning sun until about 11am. The sunlight helps them develop flower buds while the afternoon shade protects their leaves from scorching and turning all yellowish (including the leaf veins). A location that is not windy will minimize wilting episodes during the worst of the summer season and offer protection from Fall storms. Observe where your neighbors planted theirs for ideas.
The soil should drain well to prevent root rot, should contain plenty of organic material and should be mulched with 3-4" to help maintain the soil moist as long possible, especially during the months of February through April. Hydrangeas do not require much in terms of fertilizers so start with 1/2 to 1 cup of any of these: cottonseed meal, compost or composted manure. You can also use a general-purpose slow-release fertilizer. Apply the fertilizer in late April to early May and again in June. Obviously, you do not need to worry about winter protection. Even the most cold sensitive mopheads, such as the Teller Hybrids, will do well in the cool/wet mountains in the center of the island. Arid or sandy locations may be a challenge though (moisture wise), especially in the south.
If not sure where to buy your Hortensias, ask your neighbors where they got theirs! Nurseries stock up over here starting in late April or May.
These plants should bloom from around now until December-January. Here in Texas, they become deciduous starting in December. A grower from south Florida once observed that they barely go dormant there (Jan) and leaf out by Feb or so. How do the ones in PR do?
If available, consider trying re-blooming hydrangeas; you have a very long growing season and you may appreciate reblooms from the Endless Summer Series or the Forever & Ever Series.
Note: there is little in the scientific literature to guide us when it comes to hydrangeas so I recommend mopheads (macrophyllas), especially those that are resistant to powdery mildew. It might be tempting to try oakleafs since they are native to the SE states but they are very sensitive to root rot and you probably get more rain than their roots can handle. It might also be tempting to try growing paniculatas but their stems are somewhat brittle (ie, easily broken by strong storms). They can also get quite tall.
Luis
If you want to see hydrangeas from even further south, check Hydrangea seemanii, an evergreen climber native to Mexico or Hydrangea serratifolia, another hydrangea climber native to the Chile-Argentina region (see a picture here: https://www.chileflora.com/Florachilena/FloraEnglish/HighResPages/EH0223.htm ).
Mopheads (also called H. macrophyllas) should enjoy being planted in a location where they can get early morning sun until about 11am. The sunlight helps them develop flower buds while the afternoon shade protects their leaves from scorching and turning all yellowish (including the leaf veins). A location that is not windy will minimize wilting episodes during the worst of the summer season and offer protection from Fall storms. Observe where your neighbors planted theirs for ideas.
The soil should drain well to prevent root rot, should contain plenty of organic material and should be mulched with 3-4" to help maintain the soil moist as long possible, especially during the months of February through April. Hydrangeas do not require much in terms of fertilizers so start with 1/2 to 1 cup of any of these: cottonseed meal, compost or composted manure. You can also use a general-purpose slow-release fertilizer. Apply the fertilizer in late April to early May and again in June. Obviously, you do not need to worry about winter protection. Even the most cold sensitive mopheads, such as the Teller Hybrids, will do well in the cool/wet mountains in the center of the island. Arid or sandy locations may be a challenge though (moisture wise), especially in the south.
If not sure where to buy your Hortensias, ask your neighbors where they got theirs! Nurseries stock up over here starting in late April or May.
These plants should bloom from around now until December-January. Here in Texas, they become deciduous starting in December. A grower from south Florida once observed that they barely go dormant there (Jan) and leaf out by Feb or so. How do the ones in PR do?
If available, consider trying re-blooming hydrangeas; you have a very long growing season and you may appreciate reblooms from the Endless Summer Series or the Forever & Ever Series.
Note: there is little in the scientific literature to guide us when it comes to hydrangeas so I recommend mopheads (macrophyllas), especially those that are resistant to powdery mildew. It might be tempting to try oakleafs since they are native to the SE states but they are very sensitive to root rot and you probably get more rain than their roots can handle. It might also be tempting to try growing paniculatas but their stems are somewhat brittle (ie, easily broken by strong storms). They can also get quite tall.
Luis
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BarbaraParis
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luis_pr
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That means that they behave evergreen shrubs but will still develop new leaves early in the year. Many Azaleas do the same thing too when grown here in the South.
I should point out a few things about these Mac Hydrangeas. Many of them bloom on old wood, that is, they produce flower buds only once a year, around the month of July. At that time, the flower buds are invisible but can later be seen in Spring. For that reason, try never to prune old wood hydrangeas on or after July because you will then be cutting off the Spring blooms. And you will be without blooms for a whole growing season.
Reblooming Mac hydrangeas bloom on old and new wood. That means that they produce blooms in July as described above. But after their first set of blooms has opened in Spring, they produce another set of flower buds that opens about a month (approximately) or more later. And so forth. They may repeat this several times depending on the length of one's growing season.
Rebloomers can be pruned at almost any time. Since cutting spent blooms encourages reblooming, feel free to deadhead them when the blooms look old.
If you place hydrangeas in a location where they can reach their size at maturity (a commercial term that means at 10 years of age in your garden), you will not have to worry about pruning at all. Only prune to open up the interior of the plant or to get rid of dead wood or stems that cross.
The plant labels that come with most new plants usually provide a size estimate. If you cannot find one, assume a size around 5-6' high by 5-6' wide at 10 years of age.
Leave some space between hydrangeas and other shrubs. This improves air flow and reduces the chances of developing fungal infections on the leaves. One last tidbit of information: see if you can find hydrangeas for sale at the Flower Festival in Aibonito later this month.
To determine when to water, use the finger method. Insert a finger into the soil to a depth of 3-4" daily for 1-2 weeks; do this early in the mornings. When the soil feels almost dry or dry, water 1 gallon of water and make a note on a wall calendar. Let the water fall from the rootball outwards to the drip line. If the soil feels moist or wet, do not water. After two weeks, review the information on the wall calendar and determine how often you had to water: every 2 days? every 3 days? every 4 days? Then set the sprinkler system to water 1 gallon of water on that same frequency. If watering by hand, water the soil with 1 gallon of water early in the mornings. Never water the leaves to minimize fungal infections. If the temperatures change a lot or if the amount of rain changes for long periods of time, use the finger method again to see if you need to tweak your waterings.
I should point out a few things about these Mac Hydrangeas. Many of them bloom on old wood, that is, they produce flower buds only once a year, around the month of July. At that time, the flower buds are invisible but can later be seen in Spring. For that reason, try never to prune old wood hydrangeas on or after July because you will then be cutting off the Spring blooms. And you will be without blooms for a whole growing season.
Reblooming Mac hydrangeas bloom on old and new wood. That means that they produce blooms in July as described above. But after their first set of blooms has opened in Spring, they produce another set of flower buds that opens about a month (approximately) or more later. And so forth. They may repeat this several times depending on the length of one's growing season.
Rebloomers can be pruned at almost any time. Since cutting spent blooms encourages reblooming, feel free to deadhead them when the blooms look old.
If you place hydrangeas in a location where they can reach their size at maturity (a commercial term that means at 10 years of age in your garden), you will not have to worry about pruning at all. Only prune to open up the interior of the plant or to get rid of dead wood or stems that cross.
The plant labels that come with most new plants usually provide a size estimate. If you cannot find one, assume a size around 5-6' high by 5-6' wide at 10 years of age.
Leave some space between hydrangeas and other shrubs. This improves air flow and reduces the chances of developing fungal infections on the leaves. One last tidbit of information: see if you can find hydrangeas for sale at the Flower Festival in Aibonito later this month.
To determine when to water, use the finger method. Insert a finger into the soil to a depth of 3-4" daily for 1-2 weeks; do this early in the mornings. When the soil feels almost dry or dry, water 1 gallon of water and make a note on a wall calendar. Let the water fall from the rootball outwards to the drip line. If the soil feels moist or wet, do not water. After two weeks, review the information on the wall calendar and determine how often you had to water: every 2 days? every 3 days? every 4 days? Then set the sprinkler system to water 1 gallon of water on that same frequency. If watering by hand, water the soil with 1 gallon of water early in the mornings. Never water the leaves to minimize fungal infections. If the temperatures change a lot or if the amount of rain changes for long periods of time, use the finger method again to see if you need to tweak your waterings.
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BarbaraParis
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