hay
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growing lavender

I finally got some lavender to germinate and now is growing in a small container with potting soil. At what point should the lavender be repotted? It is about 6 inches tall and slightly spreading. So far all seems to be well with this plant and I do not want to kill it by repotting unnecessarly but also do not want it to get root bound in the small container it is in. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. While I'm on the lavender subject, what is the best organic fertilizer I can use for it and how often should it be applied? I was thinking compost/aged horse manure, but I need some input from the experts on here. Thanks.

hay
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Marlingardener, I suppose I just got lucky to get the lavender to germinate and grow so great. It was started last spring and was slow to sprout and then it just took off. I have been using manure teas on most all of my herbs and roses and vegetables and on some fruit trees, but I was concerned that manure might be too strong for lavender. BTW, I did plant a few lavender seeds on Nov 24, 2009 and one has sprouted as of yesterday. What luck! Thanks for the information, I will try a dilute manure tea and see what happens.

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rainbowgardener
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I start lavender from seed and don't have too much trouble with it, but it is a slow grower. At the end of its first season (here in Ohio with a much shorter growing season and less sun!! your experience will be different) it's only about 4-6" tall. Then it goes dormant for the winter, then the second year it grows up into a nice little bush.

Don't overfertilize or over water! Lavender is a mediterranean plant that is used to dry, sandy, nutrient poor soil. And it can probably stay in the pot until spring.

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hay wrote:I finally got some lavender to germinate and now is growing in a small container with potting soil. At what point should the lavender be repotted? It is about 6 inches tall and slightly spreading. So far all seems to be well with this plant and I do not want to kill it by repotting unnecessarly but also do not want it to get root bound in the small container it is in. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. While I'm on the lavender subject, what is the best organic fertilizer I can use for it and how often should it be applied? I was thinking compost/aged horse manure, but I need some input from the experts on here. Thanks.
If the leaves on the lavender are starting to turn slightly yellow then you should pot up asap and the lavender will be root bound. It won't do the lavender damage if you were to pot up if it didn't need it. Also lavender likes poor, alkaline soil. Fertilizer is not required. As long as the soil is free-draining then you should be fine.

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elle
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Hello hay,
I never used seed for lavender (I use cutting branches for having new plants) so I cannot help you about your first question.

Regarding the fertilizer, lavender doesn't need it. If you fertilize too much, the plant will suffer. Personally I never use it.
As for the soil, I add some sand to normal soil (unless you already have sand-soil).

I like lavender, it's a lovely plant in my opinion ! :D

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Kisal
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I think, considering that lavender loves dry, rocky hillsides and alkaline soil, that I would use a potting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Although lavender will grow in regular soil, most plants that are grown for their essential oils develop best in soils that are not very rich. You'll get a plant with a more intense fragrance. JMO. :)

emerald7
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rainbowgardener wrote: Don't overfertilize or over water! Lavender is a mediterranean plant that is used to dry, sandy, nutrient poor soil. And it can probably stay in the pot until spring.
It might vary depending on what type of lavender you have (English, French, Spanish, or various other types). I've been researching a lot about English lavender (lavandula angustifolia) lately to start a pot soon, so I'll share my research with you. (All the info below applies to English lavender)

Fertilizer:
Like rainbowgardener wrote, lavender likes dry, sandy (even rocky) soil that is somewhat poor in nutrients. It also doesn't like much nitrogen (aka... not much fertilizer). So the best soil for lavender is a bit different than that of other plants. Bone meal is a good choice for a fertilizer, but don't use too much.

Drainage:
Needs proper drainage... Use a pot with a hole in the bottom and a plate under it, and put a 1" layer of rocks in the bottom of the pot before you put the soil in (rocks of 1"-2" in diameter, so they won't fall through the hole). (This is generally good for all plants.)

Recommended soil mix:
1 part seed starter, 0.5 part sphagnum peat moss, 0.5 part vermiculite, 1 part coarse sand (sand granules of a 1 mm-2 mm size, try 'horticultural sand' or 'bonsai sand'). Add a little bit of ground up oyster shells (you can get from online pet stores/pond stores, or possibly from a feed store as 'chicken grit'). Test your PH: The best PH for lavender to get a nice smell is 7-8.0 (slightly alkaline). Keep adding oyster shells if it is not alkaline enough. (It will still grow in the 6.1-8.5 range, but 7-8.0 is preferred).

Pot size:
Lavender likes to grow in a tight spot, so [root ball size] plus 2 inches is probably good until you transplant. (If the pot is too big, the moisture from the watering won't get absorbed and it'll create dampness, which isn't good because lavender likes it dry.)

Pot selection:
Terracotta/clay/ceramic pots evaporate moisture out better than plastic ones do, so terracotta might be a good choice for lavender (better than plastic).

Watering:
You can let the soil dry out more (only needs about half as much watering as other plants). Water when the soil (not the plant) appears dry. Water at the base of the plant to limit dampness on the leaves (lavender doesn't like water on its leaves). Water until the soil until it is just moist.

Sun:
Full sun to partial shade


Zones: 5-9
Type: Perennial, bring inside in winter. Reaches prime growth in 3-5 yrs.
Height: 1-3 ft

Harvesting:
Harvest flowers just as the flowers are opening, in dry weather.

HTH

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rainbowgardener
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Above is a very nice post about lavender. I would just add that I am here in zone 6b and my lavender stays out year round, is hardy here. Does better in the ground than pots (which freeze harder and do more freeze/thaw), but survives in the pots too.

English lavender is rated hardy to zone 5. French lavender is less hardy.

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nes
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I've got Munstead (english) lavender, anyone think I could keep it outside in my zone if I wrapped it & it was protected from the worst wind? :?

I think I'll put a few in pots too.

Edit: Why do I always think I'm zone 4? DUH!!!! :lol: I will wrap it, I guess it will be fine :)

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tn_veggie_gardner
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This is good info to know! My Lavender Hyssop just started to germinate a few days ago. =)

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rainbowgardener
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tn_veggie -- you do know that lavender hyssop is not lavender?

Lavender (lavendula spp) has deep purple blue flowers and lavender scented leaves and flowers.

Lavender hyssop (agastache spp) is a taller, somewhat "weedier" looking plant
( https://www.american-natives.biz/store/images/LavenderHyssop-sc.jpg )

with pale lavender flowers and a mintier/ spicier scent (being in the mint family). It is an American native (lavender isn't). It is more cold hardy than lavender, down to zone 4.


I love the agastache, partly because bees and butterflies also love it and it makes a very nice tea. It also spreads itself around the garden more freely than lavender does. It is quite a nice plant in its own right. But it isn't lavender.

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tn_veggie_gardner
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rainbow: Yea, I found that out about a week ago. Of course, I bought it just for the flowers, but did find out that it is still edible. =)

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rainbowgardener
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Yup, edible. I throw some agastache leaves and/or flowers in salads and dry some for teas.



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