I have a few questions about choosing plants for a large project to reintroduce native plants to a county park. We have a good plant list to choose from but I am hesitant to add the more aggressively growing plants from the list at this point. After we remove the invasive, non native species (this will be an ongoing project) my thought is to add shrubs and plants not known for quick spreading so whatever plants or seeds are still there have a chance to regrow. Am I thinking more like a small property gardener? Would it be preferable to add say Hay-fern for example, Dennstaedita punctilobula, that grows rapidly and will fill the space and crowd out returning invasives?
Some of the native quick spreaders are recommended for reclamation projects. Should I think of this as reintroducing in waves? First the native fast growers and spreaders, then the less hardy growers later after the invasives have been crowded out?
Rhus glabra and typhina have been recommended for this project, although I do see evidence of them already existing on this site because of remaining seed heads. Would you plant more since this might be a good competition for spots currently occupied by Japanese Knotweed?
Most of the planting will be done in the fall but we will be adding plant this spring in areas the invasives have been removed.
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NewjerseyTea
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ahughes798
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I'd go with a seed mix that has a 40/60 mix of less conservative species vs. more conservative species. Prairie grasses would be a good place to start. That way, you get quick crowding out of the non-natives by not so picky early natives, while the more conservative natives are biding their time.
Clear as mud, right?
Clear as mud, right?
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NewjerseyTea
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Hi ahughes, let me stir that mud a bit. Basically you're suggesting filling the space quickly with a blend of grasses leaning toward the faster growing natives? So in the one sunny "meadow or prairie" area we have, Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans) should be added at a higher rate then Switch grass and Little Bluestem since it's a good self seeder. Broom Sedge (Andropogon virginicus) and (Blue vervain (Verbena hastata) were also suggested.
Most of the site is very rocky, moist at least part of the year, and shaded by trees.
Most of the site is very rocky, moist at least part of the year, and shaded by trees.
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MaineDesigner
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Tree shaded and moist doesn't sound like an ideal site for Schizachyrium scoparium. Is Chasmanthium latifolium native for you? It seems like you might be within the northern edge of its native range. Here in Maine I would expect a site like you describe to have a large population of Carex species, possibly some Luzula, Bromus, Calamagrostis, Elymus and maybe Gyceria or Juncus if it is quite moist.
I'm not clear on how you are attempting to proceed here but in my experience the reservoir of rhizome fragments and seeds from aggressive exotics tends to be enormous and if you haven't done a really thorough job of prepping the area they will be back.
I'm not clear on how you are attempting to proceed here but in my experience the reservoir of rhizome fragments and seeds from aggressive exotics tends to be enormous and if you haven't done a really thorough job of prepping the area they will be back.
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NewjerseyTea
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MaineDesigner,
In April there will be a start first with identifying, marking, and beginning to remove invasive exotic species.
The removal of exotics will continue through the summer, targeting various species at the appropriate times.
This Fall will be the main replanting if all goes well.
From all I've read it is important to replant the areas that have had the invasives removed quickly.
I have a list of what we want to plant which is mostly under story plants suitable for woodlands with a small section of sunny grassy area.
Chasmanthium latifilium is on our list as is Carex.
I don't know if should post the whole list?
The question is would very aggressive growers like Dennstaedita punctilobula, hay scented fern, be good additions at the beginning of this project? It is a fast grower that will out compete many other natives. It would fill the area quickly. Hopefully filling the space originally occupied by the invasives. Or do we approach the project with more of the less quickly growing plants?
In April there will be a start first with identifying, marking, and beginning to remove invasive exotic species.
The removal of exotics will continue through the summer, targeting various species at the appropriate times.
This Fall will be the main replanting if all goes well.
From all I've read it is important to replant the areas that have had the invasives removed quickly.
I have a list of what we want to plant which is mostly under story plants suitable for woodlands with a small section of sunny grassy area.
Chasmanthium latifilium is on our list as is Carex.
I don't know if should post the whole list?
The question is would very aggressive growers like Dennstaedita punctilobula, hay scented fern, be good additions at the beginning of this project? It is a fast grower that will out compete many other natives. It would fill the area quickly. Hopefully filling the space originally occupied by the invasives. Or do we approach the project with more of the less quickly growing plants?
It seems that a lot of thought and good ideas have gone into this project. And a well thought out plan is coming together. One book that I recently became aware of may provide some addition insights:
Natural Landscaping: Designing with Native Plant Communities (Paperback)
by John Diekelmann (Author), Robert M. Schuster (Author)
https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Landscaping-Designing-Native-Communities/dp/0299173240
Both authors have professional expertise in landscaping with native plants. Their approach of designing in terms of plant communities, rather than species, may provide some interesting insights for your project.
"Book Description:
In response to demand from landscape architects and home gardeners, Natural Landscaping returns to print in an updated and expanded second edition. It is unique in its focus on plant communities; it approaches landscape design as the establishment of natural ecosystems, rather than mere planting of specimens. Emphasizing the natural landscapes of the northeastern United States and eastern Canada, this book
- reviews landscaping principles and techniques
- introduces native plant species for grasslands, forests, edge areas, and small wetlands
- illustrates how to evaluate a site and plan for visual effect and maintenance
- presents the issues involved in restoring bogs, ponds, and other wetlands
- offers practical advice on reducing chemical use while still combating invasive plants
- addresses social, legal, design, and planting problems often encountered on residential sites
- discusses natural landscaping for public parklands, civic buildings, school grounds, and corporate properties"
One other thought that I'll put out there for your consideration. I've been working with a small group to get a parcel of land designated as a state natural area for the past couple of years. It's a very involved process and requires a lot of research and documentation to demonstrate that a parcel of land merits this kind of designation. It also requires a lot of discussions and coordination with some very knowledgeable people in the ecology field. One of the little gems of wisdom that I picked up from them is that the best way to understand what a pristine natural habitat is is to go visit one. If you have a state natural area (or other high quality natural area) with a habitat that is the same type that you are trying to establish, spend some time there observing what the end product of your project should look like. I'm guessing that you will see things that just wouldn't come to mind any other way. One example might be dead trees and decaying logs. Not something a person would normally think about when planning a landscape, but you will find them in any quality natural area that has trees present. Among other things, they provide homes for pollinators and many other beneficial insects.
.
Natural Landscaping: Designing with Native Plant Communities (Paperback)
by John Diekelmann (Author), Robert M. Schuster (Author)
https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Landscaping-Designing-Native-Communities/dp/0299173240
Both authors have professional expertise in landscaping with native plants. Their approach of designing in terms of plant communities, rather than species, may provide some interesting insights for your project.
"Book Description:
In response to demand from landscape architects and home gardeners, Natural Landscaping returns to print in an updated and expanded second edition. It is unique in its focus on plant communities; it approaches landscape design as the establishment of natural ecosystems, rather than mere planting of specimens. Emphasizing the natural landscapes of the northeastern United States and eastern Canada, this book
- reviews landscaping principles and techniques
- introduces native plant species for grasslands, forests, edge areas, and small wetlands
- illustrates how to evaluate a site and plan for visual effect and maintenance
- presents the issues involved in restoring bogs, ponds, and other wetlands
- offers practical advice on reducing chemical use while still combating invasive plants
- addresses social, legal, design, and planting problems often encountered on residential sites
- discusses natural landscaping for public parklands, civic buildings, school grounds, and corporate properties"
One other thought that I'll put out there for your consideration. I've been working with a small group to get a parcel of land designated as a state natural area for the past couple of years. It's a very involved process and requires a lot of research and documentation to demonstrate that a parcel of land merits this kind of designation. It also requires a lot of discussions and coordination with some very knowledgeable people in the ecology field. One of the little gems of wisdom that I picked up from them is that the best way to understand what a pristine natural habitat is is to go visit one. If you have a state natural area (or other high quality natural area) with a habitat that is the same type that you are trying to establish, spend some time there observing what the end product of your project should look like. I'm guessing that you will see things that just wouldn't come to mind any other way. One example might be dead trees and decaying logs. Not something a person would normally think about when planning a landscape, but you will find them in any quality natural area that has trees present. Among other things, they provide homes for pollinators and many other beneficial insects.
.
Last edited by NEWisc on Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
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MaineDesigner
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In my experience Dennstaedtia punctilobula is not a plant that you'd want to introduce into an area that has smaller herbaceous plants you want to keep. If it is competing with woody plants then it is a more level playing field.
If you are selectively removing exotics my biggest concern would be aggressive grasses unless your site is too shady for them. In my experience they tend to come back with a vengeance from residual seeds in the soil or rhizome fragments. While decent gardeners can usually tell forbs apart it is difficult to assemble a weeding crew that can quickly distinguish unwanted grasses and grass allies from the more desirable species.
My nightmares here in Maine are mostly made up of grasses, multiflora rose, sheep sorrel: Rumex acetosella, Equisetum arvense (native but a PIA where you don't want it), oriental bittersweet, Berberis thunbergii, Japanese knotweed, Canadian thistle, vetches and a handful of other lesser demons. Although I've seen stands of swallowwort in southern Maine I've never had to combat it.
I have the Diekelmann book and it is good although more oriented toward the Upper Midwest.
If you are selectively removing exotics my biggest concern would be aggressive grasses unless your site is too shady for them. In my experience they tend to come back with a vengeance from residual seeds in the soil or rhizome fragments. While decent gardeners can usually tell forbs apart it is difficult to assemble a weeding crew that can quickly distinguish unwanted grasses and grass allies from the more desirable species.
My nightmares here in Maine are mostly made up of grasses, multiflora rose, sheep sorrel: Rumex acetosella, Equisetum arvense (native but a PIA where you don't want it), oriental bittersweet, Berberis thunbergii, Japanese knotweed, Canadian thistle, vetches and a handful of other lesser demons. Although I've seen stands of swallowwort in southern Maine I've never had to combat it.
I have the Diekelmann book and it is good although more oriented toward the Upper Midwest.
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ahughes798
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Well, since you have a shaded site, as far as prairie grasses go, I'd go with the smaller ones...side-oats grama, little bluestem, and bottlebrush grass(hystrix patula), bottlebrush grass being the one that definitely prefers shade. The others will do okay in part-shade.
Maine Designer is right...research carefully what you decide to plant on your land.
The thing about most plants is that they are kind of forgiving about their cultural requirements, LOL!
Maine Designer is right...research carefully what you decide to plant on your land.
The thing about most plants is that they are kind of forgiving about their cultural requirements, LOL!
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NewjerseyTea
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NewjerseyTea
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We had a walk through our site with a ecologist who identified native and invasive species (as much as possible at this time of year).
The good news is we heard spring peepers (Pseudacris crucifer) singing loudly and skunk cabbage and native sedges and partridgeberry were all in evidence. There are large groupings of Spicebush and Witch hazel growing.
Now for the really daunting news of the overwhelming presence of invasives.
We are thinking of taking the meadow area, the one open sunny site and concentrating on that first. It clearly had been mowed in the past so we can continue a once yearly mowing program. The list of invasives on that site include (but are not limited to):multiflora rose, mugwort, Japanese stilt grass, wineberry, barberry and sprouts of Ailanthus from surrounding trees.
The good news is we heard spring peepers (Pseudacris crucifer) singing loudly and skunk cabbage and native sedges and partridgeberry were all in evidence. There are large groupings of Spicebush and Witch hazel growing.
Now for the really daunting news of the overwhelming presence of invasives.
We are thinking of taking the meadow area, the one open sunny site and concentrating on that first. It clearly had been mowed in the past so we can continue a once yearly mowing program. The list of invasives on that site include (but are not limited to):multiflora rose, mugwort, Japanese stilt grass, wineberry, barberry and sprouts of Ailanthus from surrounding trees.
I have John Diekelmann's first edition book. Wish I had the second edition. Excellent recommendation by NEWisc. Focusing on native plant communities in their entirety for one's county based on any inventories one can get their hands on is far better than trying to focus on the selection of individual native plants.
Dennstaedtia punctilobula is probably not ok to consider right now for reasons already mentioned by MaineDesigner but more so for reasons outlined below. The use of this particular species might create a lot of work for all volunteers in the long run should it take off and suck up valuable resources needed by other species but barring its weediness, it poses a very real threat to the establishment of more desirable species your group is interested in planting- [quote]“The Hay-scented fern produces allelopathic chemicals, compounds that kill or inhibit the growth and/or germination of other plants (Horsley 1977, 1979, 1987; Lyon & Sharpe 1996) although one study suggested that there is no such inhibition (W-3). In most studies in areas where this fern is common, however, the presence of this fern has been demonstrated to interfere not only with the growth of the roots of tree seedlings, but it also to reduce the ability of fungi to infect their roots (reduction of ectomycorrhizal infection frequency). These mycorrhizal infections are needed for the growth of many forest tree species, because the fungi assist in the gathering of water and nutrients to their roots. It has been shown that the ferns are primarily responsible for maintaining the open patches where they grow by obstructing the ability of other species (primarily tree seedlings) to germinate and grow in their immediate vicinity (Rooney & Dress1997 - “High species richness at the quadrant scale was negatively associated with high densities of hay-scented fernâ€
Dennstaedtia punctilobula is probably not ok to consider right now for reasons already mentioned by MaineDesigner but more so for reasons outlined below. The use of this particular species might create a lot of work for all volunteers in the long run should it take off and suck up valuable resources needed by other species but barring its weediness, it poses a very real threat to the establishment of more desirable species your group is interested in planting- [quote]“The Hay-scented fern produces allelopathic chemicals, compounds that kill or inhibit the growth and/or germination of other plants (Horsley 1977, 1979, 1987; Lyon & Sharpe 1996) although one study suggested that there is no such inhibition (W-3). In most studies in areas where this fern is common, however, the presence of this fern has been demonstrated to interfere not only with the growth of the roots of tree seedlings, but it also to reduce the ability of fungi to infect their roots (reduction of ectomycorrhizal infection frequency). These mycorrhizal infections are needed for the growth of many forest tree species, because the fungi assist in the gathering of water and nutrients to their roots. It has been shown that the ferns are primarily responsible for maintaining the open patches where they grow by obstructing the ability of other species (primarily tree seedlings) to germinate and grow in their immediate vicinity (Rooney & Dress1997 - “High species richness at the quadrant scale was negatively associated with high densities of hay-scented fernâ€
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ahughes798
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NewjerseyTea
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NewjerseyTea
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I have a few more questions concerning this project.
What is the best way to avoid bringing home ticks? The current suggestions are of course pants in boots, long sleeves and hat and wellies. There is a "natural" bug spray called "buzz away extreme" I've used also. Any other suggestions?
Gophers live on the meadow border. What should I do and expect?
There is one Trillium growing in a vulnerable (to deer) spot. It has returned from last year and has 2 offshoots. Should it be moved now or at all?
What is the best way to avoid bringing home ticks? The current suggestions are of course pants in boots, long sleeves and hat and wellies. There is a "natural" bug spray called "buzz away extreme" I've used also. Any other suggestions?
Gophers live on the meadow border. What should I do and expect?
There is one Trillium growing in a vulnerable (to deer) spot. It has returned from last year and has 2 offshoots. Should it be moved now or at all?
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ahughes798
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NewjerseyTea
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It's very interesting to follow an actual ongoing project like this. All the ups and downs, and the unexpected challenges that always seem to come up, provide a feel for the nitty gritty of doing a project like this.-
NewjerseyTea
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Hi NEWisc,
I'd be very happy to update as the project progresses. When I looked at the "meadow' yesterday I saw a field of dead brown grass with lovely plugs of green dotted throughout. It worked well to leave the dead material in place after the herbicide was applied to form a mulch for our plants to grow through.
New gates have been installed so they close behind you after you enter and leave so the deer don't get in but people can visit. There is a new path through the meadow that leads down to the wet area and pond. As the path winds down among the skunk cabbages Jack in the Pulpit is popping up in large clumps along the trail. Two bluebird houses have been put up.
I'd be very happy to update as the project progresses. When I looked at the "meadow' yesterday I saw a field of dead brown grass with lovely plugs of green dotted throughout. It worked well to leave the dead material in place after the herbicide was applied to form a mulch for our plants to grow through.
New gates have been installed so they close behind you after you enter and leave so the deer don't get in but people can visit. There is a new path through the meadow that leads down to the wet area and pond. As the path winds down among the skunk cabbages Jack in the Pulpit is popping up in large clumps along the trail. Two bluebird houses have been put up.
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NewjerseyTea
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