Here is a brief picture story tracking the progress of a cutting I took from a garden center plant back in May.
May 4, 2009
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/May4.jpg[/img]
It only spent a couple weeks in the glass of water before I decided to plant it into a small pot. (I now skip the glass of water and move straight to a pot for all cuttings)
July 11, 2009
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/July11.jpg[/img]
After nearly 2 months in a pot, the plant has grown a sufficient amount of rootage to work with for beginning the root-over-rock phase.
Picture the rock in the photo above as an upside-down mushroom.
My plan was to position the plant onto the lighter brown 'stem' portion of the mushroom. The larger, darker portion would be the 'mushroom top' which, when turned upside-down, would rest flat on the potting surface.
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/July111.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/July113.jpg[/img]
The overhead view in the two photos above shows how I secured the roots to the rock using two segments of picture frame wire. Entire rock was put in a plastic container, and then the base was covered with potting media. I then used an aluminum foil collar to act as a retaining wall for more potting media to cover the upper-most roots.
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/July114.jpg[/img]
And as you can see above, I also removed several leaves to help ease the burden on the root system.
November 10, 2009
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/November10.jpg[/img]
Finally, this last photo shows the plant in its current state.
I decided to remove all of the old potting media and remove the picture frame wires; the latter of which I feared might be over-constricting and damaging the roots. I was pleased to discover that the plant had secured itself to the rock on its own and no longer needed the wires. I took this opportunity to plant it into a larger pot and replace the media with my current potting mix.
The plant will now be allowed a rather lengthy growing-out period.
Gradual removal of the 'soil' covering the rock will likely begin in the upcoming spring.
BV
P.S. Note about why I included 'Dragon' in the title...
'Hawaiian Dragon' is one of three major stylings (the others being 'Sumo' and 'Roots') pioneered by David Fukumoto at his FukuBonsai nursery in Hawaii. Plants in this styling typically contain sharp bends and coil-like, swirling trunks and/or prominent surface/aerial roots. 'Hawaiian Dragon' is the styling in which I have chosen to train this particular plant.
- Gnome
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B.V.
What can I say except good job, both with the work and the presentation. I see that you put some thought into the rock which looks interesting and I am happy to read that you re-thought the potting mix you used initially. Although I can't tell too much about the mix you chose, I'm certain it is better than the first.
Can you provide us with an image of a Schefflera in the dragon style? I have been to the website you mentioned but have found it a little difficult to navigate.
Thanks for posting and please give an update when you think it is appropriate.
Norm
What can I say except good job, both with the work and the presentation. I see that you put some thought into the rock which looks interesting and I am happy to read that you re-thought the potting mix you used initially. Although I can't tell too much about the mix you chose, I'm certain it is better than the first.
Can you provide us with an image of a Schefflera in the dragon style? I have been to the website you mentioned but have found it a little difficult to navigate.
Thanks for posting and please give an update when you think it is appropriate.
Norm
- rainbowgardener
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rainbowgardener's link contains the perfect example photos---thanks!
And thanks for the remarks, Norm.
I built my own screens and sifted some suitable, yet inexpensive materials available locally in bulk quantities for the aggregate (inorganic) component. Both the aggregate and organic components in my mix are now a lot coarser and much better-suited to indoor culture than any previous mix I have ever used.
Will definitely provide updates on an as-needed basis.
BV
And thanks for the remarks, Norm.
I built my own screens and sifted some suitable, yet inexpensive materials available locally in bulk quantities for the aggregate (inorganic) component. Both the aggregate and organic components in my mix are now a lot coarser and much better-suited to indoor culture than any previous mix I have ever used.
Will definitely provide updates on an as-needed basis.
BV
Nearly 2 months have passed, and the plant has grown an additional 6 leaves...
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/Root-Over-Rock-Front-800x600.jpg[/img]
Upon further reflection, I have decided NOT to proceed with the 'Dragon' styling. Instead, I have chosen to opt for a 'simpler' banyan style. My goal is to somehow keep the supporting rock as exposed as possible whilst ending up with a modest canopy which does not detract too much from the rock.
The plant will be allowed another full year of undisturbed growth, at which point a severe trunk-chop/reduction will take place to help introduce taper (sometime early in the spring of 2011).
In the meantime, there is an emerging aerial root which is begging to be guided down toward the rock (will update as this plan springs into action).
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/Root-Over-Rock-RootCloseup-800x600.jpg[/img]
BV
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/Root-Over-Rock-Front-800x600.jpg[/img]
Upon further reflection, I have decided NOT to proceed with the 'Dragon' styling. Instead, I have chosen to opt for a 'simpler' banyan style. My goal is to somehow keep the supporting rock as exposed as possible whilst ending up with a modest canopy which does not detract too much from the rock.
The plant will be allowed another full year of undisturbed growth, at which point a severe trunk-chop/reduction will take place to help introduce taper (sometime early in the spring of 2011).
In the meantime, there is an emerging aerial root which is begging to be guided down toward the rock (will update as this plan springs into action).
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/Root-Over-Rock-RootCloseup-800x600.jpg[/img]
BV
Nothing momentous to report, but I wanted to show my efforts at getting the aerial root to extend using the 'straw method' I read about in Jerry Meislik's book on Ficus. The straw was put in place within the past week or so.
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/Jan21-800x600.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/Jan211-800x600.jpg[/img]
Even IF I am successful in getting it to extend, the root is unlikely to remain in the final design, because the trunk-chop will almost certainly take place below it. Still, it can be used as an air-layer for the top of the plant for when it comes time to make the big chop (spring 2011).
I know this is supposed to be a 'bonsai' photo gallery, so I must apologize to those wanting to see 'bonsai' per se. As I said before, this plant is actually a cutting taken less than a year ago, so there are still many years to go before it resembles anything close to 'bonsai.'
Nevertheless, I'm hoping it's okay to keep posting periodic updates on this little fella here...a continuing photo-journal, I suppose.
BV
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/Jan21-800x600.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/Dragon%20-%20Roots%20Over%20Rock/Jan211-800x600.jpg[/img]
Even IF I am successful in getting it to extend, the root is unlikely to remain in the final design, because the trunk-chop will almost certainly take place below it. Still, it can be used as an air-layer for the top of the plant for when it comes time to make the big chop (spring 2011).
I know this is supposed to be a 'bonsai' photo gallery, so I must apologize to those wanting to see 'bonsai' per se. As I said before, this plant is actually a cutting taken less than a year ago, so there are still many years to go before it resembles anything close to 'bonsai.'
Nevertheless, I'm hoping it's okay to keep posting periodic updates on this little fella here...a continuing photo-journal, I suppose.
BV
Very nice presentation BV. I'm sure that this will inspire others to be creative with their plants.....especially Schefflera. It's such a versatile plant to work with and the possibilities are endless.
I hope you will update this thread for us so we can watch it's progress. It's off to a great start!!!
I hope you will update this thread for us so we can watch it's progress. It's off to a great start!!!
I disagree with that, since all bonsai trees started at a point like this. The shear fact that it's wired over a rock already, puts it way ahead of over most bonsai trees it's age.Big Vine wrote:I know this is supposed to be a 'bonsai' photo gallery, so I must apologize to those wanting to see 'bonsai' per se.
Here is a pic of the plant taken on Feb. 11th...
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6443-583x778.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6445-800x600.jpg[/img]
And this one ^^^ was taken on Feb. 15th.
As you can see, the aerial root has only lengthened a slight bit from when I first put the straw in place. The initial straw opening was cut a bit too large; consequently not trapping as much moisture as it could have been. I have since replaced the straw to make for a tighter fit near the top (bottom pic), and I have noticed that this has helped.
Plant genetics also plays a big role in aerial root development.
This is a local garden center plant; likely selected for its foliage and not much else. My other Schefflera arboricola, on the other hand, were from a bonsai nursery specializing in these plants where only those showing strong aerial rooting characteristics were retained over multiple generations (inferior specimens were culled). I have had much more aerial rooting on these plants, and the aerial roots which have emerged lengthened and developed much more quickly.
If you look at the bottom pic, you will notice a bud emerging just above and slightly to the left of the aerial root. I will retain this growth point, and therefore the first trunk chop will be made just beyond its location. It's a little farther from the base than I originally intended to chop, but it still very much fits into the design and will allow for incorporation of the developing aerial root you see in the straw.
Thanks for the questions, Norm.
BV
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6443-583x778.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6445-800x600.jpg[/img]
And this one ^^^ was taken on Feb. 15th.
As you can see, the aerial root has only lengthened a slight bit from when I first put the straw in place. The initial straw opening was cut a bit too large; consequently not trapping as much moisture as it could have been. I have since replaced the straw to make for a tighter fit near the top (bottom pic), and I have noticed that this has helped.
Plant genetics also plays a big role in aerial root development.
This is a local garden center plant; likely selected for its foliage and not much else. My other Schefflera arboricola, on the other hand, were from a bonsai nursery specializing in these plants where only those showing strong aerial rooting characteristics were retained over multiple generations (inferior specimens were culled). I have had much more aerial rooting on these plants, and the aerial roots which have emerged lengthened and developed much more quickly.
If you look at the bottom pic, you will notice a bud emerging just above and slightly to the left of the aerial root. I will retain this growth point, and therefore the first trunk chop will be made just beyond its location. It's a little farther from the base than I originally intended to chop, but it still very much fits into the design and will allow for incorporation of the developing aerial root you see in the straw.
Thanks for the questions, Norm.
BV
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BV,
I'm glad you'll be able to keep the root. I am surprised at how slowly it is coming along though.
Up here in the North country we don't see a lot of this type of thing and at first aerial roots seemed so foreign to me I could not appreciate them, but I'm coming around.
Norm
I'm glad you'll be able to keep the root. I am surprised at how slowly it is coming along though.
I had never really given it much thought before but now that you point it out it's obvious. We select for many other characteristics so it really does make sense.Plant genetics also plays a big role in aerial root development.
This is a local garden center plant; likely selected for its foliage and not much else. My other Schefflera arboricola, on the other hand, were from a bonsai nursery specializing in these plants where only those showing strong aerial rooting characteristics were retained over multiple generations
Up here in the North country we don't see a lot of this type of thing and at first aerial roots seemed so foreign to me I could not appreciate them, but I'm coming around.

Norm
Yup, makes a HUGE difference, Norm---check this out!
January 20, 2010
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6388-800x600-arrow.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6411-800x600.jpg[/img]
February 5, 2010
That's the difference 2 weeks can make on a Schefflera arboricola with strong genetics for aerial rootage.
BV
January 20, 2010
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6388-800x600-arrow.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6411-800x600.jpg[/img]
February 5, 2010
That's the difference 2 weeks can make on a Schefflera arboricola with strong genetics for aerial rootage.

BV
The aerial root (in the straw) has begun growing down below the rock over the past few days, and I've also gradually removed the collar to expose everything that was hiding underneath it. Gravel was gradually removed, and you can see in the following 'before' and 'after' photos where I trimmed off a lot of the finer hair roots and other debris obscuring the rock.
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6474.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6480.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6478.jpg[/img]
If you look closely at the trunk in the first two photos, you can see two growth points which have begun sprouting. If you look REALLY closely, you'll see that there is another emerging at the very base of the tree.
Considering this plant is from a small branch cutting taken less than a year ago, I'm fairly pleased with how things are developing thus far.
BV
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6474.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6480.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6478.jpg[/img]
If you look closely at the trunk in the first two photos, you can see two growth points which have begun sprouting. If you look REALLY closely, you'll see that there is another emerging at the very base of the tree.
Considering this plant is from a small branch cutting taken less than a year ago, I'm fairly pleased with how things are developing thus far.
BV
BigVine, all I can say is wow. Your pictures are really inspiring. I've promised myself to stick to just one indoor tree until I graduate (too much trouble to truck more than one tree to school with me and back during breaks and summer), but your scheff has really got me reconsidering my decision. I'm impressed with how quickly and strongly they grow even during the winter. I may eventually cave and get one just because.
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Good luck with thatJTred wrote:I've promised myself to stick to just one indoor tree until I graduate (too much trouble to truck more than one tree to school with me and back during breaks and summer)

I remember my dorm room window garden plants kept increasing until by the time I graduated, I had so much stuff (including some that I'd stored at the school over breaks/vacations) that I had to rent a U-haul trailer and STILL had to "donate" almost all except my favorite plants to the senior dorm with a green house.


Last edited by applestar on Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
JTred...I'm glad the photos are of some inspiration!
Just to give an idea of indoor growth rate, one of the Scheffs I recently measured (the one just to the left of that one in the last pic) had its main stem grow 8 inches over the past 5 months---and these were the coldest/darkest months of the year! I think you'll be happy if you try out Scheffs under decent supplemental lighting.
Norm...thanks for your feedback.
I definitely agree with what you say about that aerial root fitting into the design.
My overall plan is to shift growth to the left so that the plant is more centered over the right side of the rock (I.e. rather than jutting out so far to the right as you see in that last pic). This will require performing a major trunk chop just beyond those new emerging growth points at some point in the near future. But before I do this, I want to make sure that the aerial root is established well enough so that it does not merely languish and wither away when I remove the main portion of the tree that it is supplying...hope that makes sense.
BV
Just to give an idea of indoor growth rate, one of the Scheffs I recently measured (the one just to the left of that one in the last pic) had its main stem grow 8 inches over the past 5 months---and these were the coldest/darkest months of the year! I think you'll be happy if you try out Scheffs under decent supplemental lighting.

Norm...thanks for your feedback.
I definitely agree with what you say about that aerial root fitting into the design.
My overall plan is to shift growth to the left so that the plant is more centered over the right side of the rock (I.e. rather than jutting out so far to the right as you see in that last pic). This will require performing a major trunk chop just beyond those new emerging growth points at some point in the near future. But before I do this, I want to make sure that the aerial root is established well enough so that it does not merely languish and wither away when I remove the main portion of the tree that it is supplying...hope that makes sense.
BV
This is my inspiration for doing root over rock with one of my bougainvilleas. I have it in a big pot growing over a clay pot right now, and once it gets another one or two years worth of groth, I'm gonna pick a nice rock and follow suit. I'm not doing it full on bonsai though, I'm gonna find a large rock and do more of a full sized plant over rock. I'm doing this since I'm not entirely certain I have a dwarf bougainvillea or not. I'm gonna keep it relatively small though.
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I don't think Bougie would be that good of a tree for this. I have a number of bougainvilleas and based on my experience with them, their root structure is very weak, and Bougie roots are known to be the plants Achilles tendon (weak and fibrous and break very easily and also the reason why roots are needed to dryout between waterings to avoid root rot). Anyways, just my 2 cents.a0c8c wrote:This is my inspiration for doing root over rock with one of my bougainvilleas. I have it in a big pot growing over a clay pot right now, and once it gets another one or two years worth of groth, I'm gonna pick a nice rock and follow suit. I'm not doing it full on bonsai though, I'm gonna find a large rock and do more of a full sized plant over rock. I'm doing this since I'm not entirely certain I have a dwarf bougainvillea or not. I'm gonna keep it relatively small though.
I am thinking of a root over rock with a Fukien Tea. Tree grows slowly but root structure is usually very attractive and strong.
Oh, wow! I must say, Big Vine, that I've been considering trying a root-over-rock bonsai, but now I have to. I hadn't been sure of the process for doing something like that, but you've posted everything I'd need, pictures included. 
My only question is, can you do this with a tree that's already grown? Or do you have to start them early?
Thanks for such a great documentary! I'm really looking forward to seeing more!

My only question is, can you do this with a tree that's already grown? Or do you have to start them early?
Thanks for such a great documentary! I'm really looking forward to seeing more!

Thank-you, StickFish.
Even though I started with a very young plant and 'married' it to the rock at an early age, I am still finding that some of the (now exposed) roots are not quite positioned to my liking. Actually, let me re-phrase that. In general I do like the way the roots are positioned, but I'm not overly pleased with the way they are merely 'draping' over the rock instead of actually 'clasping' onto it.
I have made adjustments with several of the roots in an attempt to begin correcting this, and I will post photos shortly.
BV

The short answer is that I would think that both methods generally work when using suitable material.StickFish wrote:My only question is, can you do this with a tree that's already grown? Or do you have to start them early?
Even though I started with a very young plant and 'married' it to the rock at an early age, I am still finding that some of the (now exposed) roots are not quite positioned to my liking. Actually, let me re-phrase that. In general I do like the way the roots are positioned, but I'm not overly pleased with the way they are merely 'draping' over the rock instead of actually 'clasping' onto it.
I have made adjustments with several of the roots in an attempt to begin correcting this, and I will post photos shortly.
BV
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Big Vine,
Norm
I suspect that eventually, with the passage of time, the roots will take on a more mature feel and the arrangement will begin to become more cohesive. It will be interesting to see where this stands at the end of the season.In general I do like the way the roots are positioned, but I'm not overly pleased with the way they are merely 'draping' over the rock instead of actually 'clasping' onto it.
Norm
BACK (before & after)
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6480.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6545.jpg[/img]
Note the root on the far lefthand side (see above) which has been moved to the front of the tree (see below). There is one to the left of it (in the photos below) which I also re-positioned
FRONT (before & after)
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6481.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6546.jpg[/img]
The tree drooped a bit once I moved that root to the front side of the rock, and so I had to wedge that black thingy in there (between tree and rim of pot) for support. There is one other major root I may also decide to move. Either way, I won't be doing much else until the aerial root grows and strengthens and forms a 'support pillar' of sorts (which will allow me to remove the black support thingy you see wedged between the tree and the rim of the pot).
BV
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6480.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6545.jpg[/img]
Note the root on the far lefthand side (see above) which has been moved to the front of the tree (see below). There is one to the left of it (in the photos below) which I also re-positioned
FRONT (before & after)
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6481.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/Big_Vine/Plants/2010/IMG_6546.jpg[/img]
The tree drooped a bit once I moved that root to the front side of the rock, and so I had to wedge that black thingy in there (between tree and rim of pot) for support. There is one other major root I may also decide to move. Either way, I won't be doing much else until the aerial root grows and strengthens and forms a 'support pillar' of sorts (which will allow me to remove the black support thingy you see wedged between the tree and the rim of the pot).
BV
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Thanks Angela.
Since that pic was taken I've had to improvise yet again with a different 'support pillar' type object in a slightly different position, but it's basically accomplishing the same thing.
I've also trimmed off a few of the leaves to allow more light to get at the two new branches emerging from the inner/lower portion of the trunk.
Now I just need to wait, let the tree grow, and let that aerial root really thicken up.
BV

Since that pic was taken I've had to improvise yet again with a different 'support pillar' type object in a slightly different position, but it's basically accomplishing the same thing.
I've also trimmed off a few of the leaves to allow more light to get at the two new branches emerging from the inner/lower portion of the trunk.
Now I just need to wait, let the tree grow, and let that aerial root really thicken up.
BV
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