Hi sorry I apologize for the post, I'm new to forums and also in a hurry on my lunch break. Long story short I have these supplies and want to start a garden but have no knowledge about (when, how, etc.) a.k.a anything about growing vegetables etc.
I hope I am not too late for the season all I have so far is what is in the images, and space. I need to know what I can grow in the space, when I can start (hopefully not too late now) and anything else.
I also would like to become a member and engage with other on the forum thanks sorry I am in a hurry
have a blessed day
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Welcome to the forum
It’s important that you let us know where you are — general terms is OK — so we could tell you what to start this time of the year.
Then we could advise what to plant — seeds or purchased started plants — and also, what part of the garden might be suitable for which.
Tell us more about your garden — which direction N E S W it faces, any trees or buildings that cast shadows? How much direct sunshine during the day? Parts of the same yard will get different amounts of sun.
More information you give us — what you want to grow, what you like to eat, what kind of experience you have, as much details about the garden as you can, the more we can speak from experience.
It’s important that you let us know where you are — general terms is OK — so we could tell you what to start this time of the year.
Then we could advise what to plant — seeds or purchased started plants — and also, what part of the garden might be suitable for which.
Tell us more about your garden — which direction N E S W it faces, any trees or buildings that cast shadows? How much direct sunshine during the day? Parts of the same yard will get different amounts of sun.
More information you give us — what you want to grow, what you like to eat, what kind of experience you have, as much details about the garden as you can, the more we can speak from experience.
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OK — let’s start from there.
As the spring progresses, the sun will rise earlier and earlier until sunrise will be at somewhere ENE. So your garden will get some direct morning sun. If you are at higher elevation, then you have longer daylight hours (…than I do at least here in the flat part of NJ ).
The sun will also climb higher and the house shadow will get shorter, so you will get more sun shining here than you see right now.
The lighter color of your house will help somewhat as well.
You need to find out what your local average last frost date is — there are online guides that you can plug in your zip code.
Right now, your are in early spring and likely able to sow seeds — peas and carrots, beets, swiss chard, lettuce, spinach…. Buy started plants of cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, onions (plants or “sets” tiny fingertip sized bulbs ), “seed” potatoes (certified disease-free small potatoes)
You won’t be buying started plants of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants until after last frost date. You can also sow seeds of pumpkins, squash, beans, melons, cucumbers after then.
Right now, try to map out your yard and garden space — you need beds that get 6 to 8 hours of direct sun for any fruiting plants, 8+ for especially things like melons and tomatoes. …There are crops that can manage with 6, and some that can manage with a little less.
You won’t know what to plant and how much you can plant until you have better idea of your space. But I think you have a bit of time to plan in Colorado.
As the spring progresses, the sun will rise earlier and earlier until sunrise will be at somewhere ENE. So your garden will get some direct morning sun. If you are at higher elevation, then you have longer daylight hours (…than I do at least here in the flat part of NJ ).
The sun will also climb higher and the house shadow will get shorter, so you will get more sun shining here than you see right now.
The lighter color of your house will help somewhat as well.
You need to find out what your local average last frost date is — there are online guides that you can plug in your zip code.
Right now, your are in early spring and likely able to sow seeds — peas and carrots, beets, swiss chard, lettuce, spinach…. Buy started plants of cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, onions (plants or “sets” tiny fingertip sized bulbs ), “seed” potatoes (certified disease-free small potatoes)
You won’t be buying started plants of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants until after last frost date. You can also sow seeds of pumpkins, squash, beans, melons, cucumbers after then.
Right now, try to map out your yard and garden space — you need beds that get 6 to 8 hours of direct sun for any fruiting plants, 8+ for especially things like melons and tomatoes. …There are crops that can manage with 6, and some that can manage with a little less.
You won’t know what to plant and how much you can plant until you have better idea of your space. But I think you have a bit of time to plan in Colorado.
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For a reference, here’s picture of my NE side yard garden beds and a comment I made in beginning of last September—
All of the pictured area receives the noonday and afternoon sun during the summer, but the area is mostly in shade and in dappled shade in the morning since the sun rises behind the neighbors house and then needs to climb up to the sky above the fully leafed mature woods in the back.
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thanks for the reply. I will have to map out the amount of sun/shade but worst case I work from home and since the plants are in the boxes, I could move them based on time of day/sunshine/shade. Although if not.. off the top of my head half of the space in the picture gets shade during the day I believe. If I end up planting in the ground that information might help. Am I able to plant seeds in the circular planting device? I'm sorry I am completely new to this and was gifted the growing boxes. I plan on starting the boxes with plants that have already sprouted if that's the correct word.
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Well, that is a nice patch of ground and its' in full sun. It is a lot easier to work with.
Since you are gardening at high altitude, the cold and frost tolerant plants will probably do best.
It would be better to start with a few easy plants.
A soil test would be a good place to start. You have a few weeks before your last frost date. You can take the time to prepare the soil for planting. Your planting zone is 5b.
It would be a good idea to edit your profile and include your location and zone on this forum. It gives us a point of reference for future posts.
Starting a first garden takes more time and you need to make sure you have the time to set aside to work on it. Otherwise, I would work on maybe 4 easy plants and a smaller area and build on that. Plan on spending at least 6 hours or more a week on the garden. It will take more to prep it. It may take a couple of weeks just to amend and prep, set up trellises for tall plants. If you have help, it could go a little faster. If you have tools, even better.
You can probably do peas, beans, radish, lettuce. Corn takes up a large space but it is a heavy feeder so you can do it if you can amend the soil in time and fertilize and choose the right variety of corn for your location. Corn should be planted in a block rather than a long narrow row for better pollination. Peppers and tomatoes would be difficult as they take a long time to grow and can be demanding. Carrots like a deep fine sandy soil. You could do those in deep containers. Carrots and other root crops would need deep soil prep for their roots to grow. If you grow bush beans, then you would not need a trellis but you may need to do some staking. Pole beans and peas would need some support. Trellised plants are usually put on the North side of the garden with progressively shorter plants moving toward the south side to maximize light.
To get a head start on your short season, you may have to start some things indoors, so you may have to make a space and get supplies to do that. You will also need to plan for contingencies if the weather does not cooperate.
Good luck
ttps://getbusygardening.com/tips-for-starting-seeds-indoors/
https://morningchores.com/zone-five-gardening/
https://www.ufseeds.com/colorado-vegeta ... endar.html
https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/
https://growgive.extension.colostate.ed ... de-2.1.pdf
Since you are gardening at high altitude, the cold and frost tolerant plants will probably do best.
It would be better to start with a few easy plants.
A soil test would be a good place to start. You have a few weeks before your last frost date. You can take the time to prepare the soil for planting. Your planting zone is 5b.
It would be a good idea to edit your profile and include your location and zone on this forum. It gives us a point of reference for future posts.
Starting a first garden takes more time and you need to make sure you have the time to set aside to work on it. Otherwise, I would work on maybe 4 easy plants and a smaller area and build on that. Plan on spending at least 6 hours or more a week on the garden. It will take more to prep it. It may take a couple of weeks just to amend and prep, set up trellises for tall plants. If you have help, it could go a little faster. If you have tools, even better.
You can probably do peas, beans, radish, lettuce. Corn takes up a large space but it is a heavy feeder so you can do it if you can amend the soil in time and fertilize and choose the right variety of corn for your location. Corn should be planted in a block rather than a long narrow row for better pollination. Peppers and tomatoes would be difficult as they take a long time to grow and can be demanding. Carrots like a deep fine sandy soil. You could do those in deep containers. Carrots and other root crops would need deep soil prep for their roots to grow. If you grow bush beans, then you would not need a trellis but you may need to do some staking. Pole beans and peas would need some support. Trellised plants are usually put on the North side of the garden with progressively shorter plants moving toward the south side to maximize light.
To get a head start on your short season, you may have to start some things indoors, so you may have to make a space and get supplies to do that. You will also need to plan for contingencies if the weather does not cooperate.
Good luck
ttps://getbusygardening.com/tips-for-starting-seeds-indoors/
https://morningchores.com/zone-five-gardening/
https://www.ufseeds.com/colorado-vegeta ... endar.html
https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/
https://growgive.extension.colostate.ed ... de-2.1.pdf
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Thanks for the reply. I will read through the information that you provided. I'm doing my best to learn, although experience will take some time. I'm not sure about pest/animals/bugs, although I am planning to put a fence around the garden do either of you have any tips if necessary. Thanks again, I will try to change my profile to include my location and zone.
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I started the garden with the boxes today, this is what I got from Lowes this morning. The pictures were a taken probably between 11am and 1230pm. I can still move the boxes based on sun/shade, if someone has any tips on that. Also, other tips are welcome, such as how much should I water the plants, etc. I know these are basic. This is till my first time growing anything.
thanks!!!
thanks!!!
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It’s a little too early for tomatoes and peppers and you will need to bring them inside or protect them from temps lower than 50°F.
Pansies will take frost as will lettuce and cabbage/broccoli, greens… but petunia? would not be frost hardy I think. Rosemary? will depend - some can take light frost even as young plants, but common rosemary can be freeze killed.
They all need to be acclimated to the sun and wind slowly or they will sunburn and windburn or get flattened by wind and rain.
After they can handle longer periods of direct sun …
Tomatoes should go where it’s sunniest.
Cabbage/broccoli next.
(Cucumbers)
(Beans)
…I want to put petunias about here…
Peppers after that.
Leafy greens, then —
Put the lettuce where there is least amount of sun and where it is coolest. Pansies will last longer if they stay in cooler spot.
The orange containers look like they are sub-irrigated with water reservoir. Presumably you drilled holes in the clear tubs for drainage?
Watering will depend on each plant and how well the potting mix drains
— btw I’m concerned that all I see is “garden soil” — containers should be filled with “container mix” or “potting mix”
— I don’t know what that “roots formula 707” is?
Pansies will take frost as will lettuce and cabbage/broccoli, greens… but petunia? would not be frost hardy I think. Rosemary? will depend - some can take light frost even as young plants, but common rosemary can be freeze killed.
They all need to be acclimated to the sun and wind slowly or they will sunburn and windburn or get flattened by wind and rain.
After they can handle longer periods of direct sun …
Tomatoes should go where it’s sunniest.
Cabbage/broccoli next.
(Cucumbers)
(Beans)
…I want to put petunias about here…
Peppers after that.
Leafy greens, then —
Put the lettuce where there is least amount of sun and where it is coolest. Pansies will last longer if they stay in cooler spot.
The orange containers look like they are sub-irrigated with water reservoir. Presumably you drilled holes in the clear tubs for drainage?
Watering will depend on each plant and how well the potting mix drains
— btw I’m concerned that all I see is “garden soil” — containers should be filled with “container mix” or “potting mix”
— I don’t know what that “roots formula 707” is?
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@imafan is correct. The so called “vegetable garden soil” is often even less suited for containers than “raised bed” soil.
My objection includes not just drainage aggregate but also I think they often have more of the woody mulch-level chunks and are intended to be mixed with typical ground aggregate components like sand and silt/clay. (Show the ingredient and nutrient list from the back of the bag — front seems to say fertilizers in it last for 9!? months? …does that sound right for slow-release like Osmocote @imafan?)
To make them more suitable for containers, I would probably have to sift out the larger, chunky materials, mix with top soil, good compost, sand, and probably perlite or pumice gravel.
I looked up Roots. It looks like a very good potting mix… a bit on pricy side? Produced by a company based in Oregon:
Aurora Innovations
https://www.aurorainnovations.com/original-potting-soil
I really like the described ingredients and I might try getting some if I can find them at decent price. I often get premium potting mix with good microbial ingredients and use small amounts to inoculate/upgrade less well furbished ones.
Did those orange containers come with guide for how to plant? I think those are Earthbox lookalikes? Earthbox has a very comprehensive instructional website.
You may need to add dolomitic or garden lime for some of the veg… or at minimum, use fertilizer that contains calcium and magnesium.
My objection includes not just drainage aggregate but also I think they often have more of the woody mulch-level chunks and are intended to be mixed with typical ground aggregate components like sand and silt/clay. (Show the ingredient and nutrient list from the back of the bag — front seems to say fertilizers in it last for 9!? months? …does that sound right for slow-release like Osmocote @imafan?)
To make them more suitable for containers, I would probably have to sift out the larger, chunky materials, mix with top soil, good compost, sand, and probably perlite or pumice gravel.
I looked up Roots. It looks like a very good potting mix… a bit on pricy side? Produced by a company based in Oregon:
Aurora Innovations
https://www.aurorainnovations.com/original-potting-soil
I really like the described ingredients and I might try getting some if I can find them at decent price. I often get premium potting mix with good microbial ingredients and use small amounts to inoculate/upgrade less well furbished ones.
Did those orange containers come with guide for how to plant? I think those are Earthbox lookalikes? Earthbox has a very comprehensive instructional website.
You may need to add dolomitic or garden lime for some of the veg… or at minimum, use fertilizer that contains calcium and magnesium.
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I was replying to both your questions, one reply was making sure I had drainage in the containers without the sub-irrigated / water reservoir. Anyways is it possible to move the plants to the correct soil, tips on what to buy (soil) would be appreciated. I can use the soil I bought yesterday around the house anyways not for garden. Well, thanks for the quick replies, everyone. I forgot to reply about the 707-soil bag, my neighbor gave it to me when I was moving the bins around outside. I will have to look it up I know that the bag said it was from a shop in the town next to mine. I believe it was used for indoor growing under lights. I will try to look up the brand online or ask my neighbor if I catch her outside at the right time. She has an outdoor veggie and plant garden I believe she has had for over 20 years.
Timeline:
Day 1: wrong soil
I saw that you replied when I went to post, thanks again, I will check it out asap
Timeline:
Day 1: wrong soil
I saw that you replied when I went to post, thanks again, I will check it out asap
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I always add perlite to any container mix that I make up, and it would definitely help that "garden soil" drain much better. I add some worm castings to my containers, when I make the mix for my indoor plants, when re-potting them, or when making my seedling mix, and always pack some in a small pot, and test it for drainage. I put about 20% perlite, and about 1/3 that much vermiculite - helps keep some moisture from draining out too quickly.
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Reply to Applestar. They are using a slow release fertilizer in Sta green garden soil. It is similar to osmocote and I can't remember the name of the brand of it. If it is a type 180, it can last that long. I consider it a starter fertilizer. I would still have to side dress it. It is more like compost with synthetic fertilizer than soil. I did get the potting soil from sta green. It sprouted a lot of mushrooms, so they must use a lot of forest products in it.
The miracle grow organics is a container soil, but it is an expensive choice. The fertilizer is organic and your containers are marginal in size. You would need to add some vermi compost, worm castings, or even some good compost to stock the soil with the bacteria and micorrhyzzae you need to break down the organic fertilizer. Even then, it will take a while.
If you want to do this organically, you will also need to supplement with weekly fast nitrogen in the form of fish emulsion or blood meal. Otherwise, your plants, especially the heavy feeders like the tomato and peppers may not get enough nitrogen to support their growth when they need it. The self watering containers may require less since the water does not leach as fast.
Self watering containers are not good for all plants. The tomatoes don't mind, but the pots are on the smallish side unless you have dwarf or determinate tomatoes. Rosemary would be unhappy in a self watering pot. They will have rank growth when they are over watered.
The miracle grow organics is a container soil, but it is an expensive choice. The fertilizer is organic and your containers are marginal in size. You would need to add some vermi compost, worm castings, or even some good compost to stock the soil with the bacteria and micorrhyzzae you need to break down the organic fertilizer. Even then, it will take a while.
If you want to do this organically, you will also need to supplement with weekly fast nitrogen in the form of fish emulsion or blood meal. Otherwise, your plants, especially the heavy feeders like the tomato and peppers may not get enough nitrogen to support their growth when they need it. The self watering containers may require less since the water does not leach as fast.
Self watering containers are not good for all plants. The tomatoes don't mind, but the pots are on the smallish side unless you have dwarf or determinate tomatoes. Rosemary would be unhappy in a self watering pot. They will have rank growth when they are over watered.
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Hello everyone. As for an update, I had to leave town for a few days on business and it has been very cold here at night approaching 32 Fahrenheit I believe 38 degrees was coldest. I had my young nephew take care of the plants when I was gone, and he said he covered them two days because of the wind. The appearance he described was somewhat droopy and his word was that they were slightly rattled by the wind. I have yet to get home, I told him the droopiness was from over watering, but I am not sure as I did not have time to acclimate the plants to the weather and the temperatures have been pretty cool / cold very early morning. And I had to transplant them from the wrong soil to new soil. I will take some pictures tomorrow morning when I return home. If anyone has any information, tips, advice. That would be appreciated.
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I brought the plants in this morning before it tried to snow... tough weather in Colorado. Here are a few pictures... the soil seemed dry, I could not feel moisture when I stuck my finger in the dirt about an inch and a half or 2 inches deep. I watered them in total 90 ounces of water on top of the soil because I took off the bottom sections. I poked about 5 holes in the top of a water bottle worked pretty good... They are now located upstairs 75 degrees inside. Do you think that it is feasible to leave them up there for a while until the weather gets better possibly 4 days duration? I can also move them outside on the deck during the day if needed. I hope they survive. Here are the photos:
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They look good to OK and should be OK.
Lettuce and broccoli(?) can go back outside as long as it doesn’t get below 27°F, and could stay out even then. if you cover with fabric like old sheets (or buy non-woven cloth floating cover / garden dropcloth like Agribon).
- Parsley would also be hardy but not the tomato.
- Strawberry would be OK but I don’t recognize the red stemmed plant with it
…it’s a bit of a pain, but put them all outside in the sun during the day after temp is above 50°F if you can. I’ll see if I can dig up a photo of a possible protection method if you have to leave house before temp is warm enough.
Lettuce and broccoli(?) can go back outside as long as it doesn’t get below 27°F, and could stay out even then. if you cover with fabric like old sheets (or buy non-woven cloth floating cover / garden dropcloth like Agribon).
- Parsley would also be hardy but not the tomato.
- Strawberry would be OK but I don’t recognize the red stemmed plant with it
…it’s a bit of a pain, but put them all outside in the sun during the day after temp is above 50°F if you can. I’ll see if I can dig up a photo of a possible protection method if you have to leave house before temp is warm enough.
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Here we go. Even if it gets really super cold, as long as there is no frost or freeze that physically damage the cells, plants can often recover as long as the following day is accompanied by warm enough temps to help recuperate.
So a windbreak like this can help —
Also scan through photos on this page
Applestar’s 2021 Garden - Page 3
So a windbreak like this can help —
Also scan through photos on this page
Applestar’s 2021 Garden - Page 3
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Thanks so much for the reply. The plant next to the strawberry is a rhubarb plant my grandmother loves rhubarb pie, so I added one although I believe they take years to grow maybe... and my cousin told me that rhubarb does not grow well in Colorado...
What are your opinions of grow houses / green houses, I found a cheap one at Lowes... not cheap, but $150 for 10ft-20ft-7ft tall? I could possibly build my own although I have no idea where to start on that endeavor.
Those windbreaks look perfect, a lot easier than pulling a tarp over the plants, although I did buy 4 stakes to build a rigged cover with the tarp, so that it is easier for me to put on - take off by myself.
I am considering building / buying inexpensive greenhouse just because the weather in Colorado sure has a mind of its own.
What are your opinions of grow houses / green houses, I found a cheap one at Lowes... not cheap, but $150 for 10ft-20ft-7ft tall? I could possibly build my own although I have no idea where to start on that endeavor.
Those windbreaks look perfect, a lot easier than pulling a tarp over the plants, although I did buy 4 stakes to build a rigged cover with the tarp, so that it is easier for me to put on - take off by myself.
I am considering building / buying inexpensive greenhouse just because the weather in Colorado sure has a mind of its own.
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Since you are using a SIP pot (sub irrigated planter), you don't have to water it everyday. It should be good as long as there is water in the reservoir. When the plants are small the reservoir will take a while to go down.
Your pot design does not have a fill tube so it will be hard to tell when the reservoir needs refilling. Without a fill tube you will be watering from the top until the reservoir overflows. You can probably still use the finger test to see if the soil needs more water. Usually on SIPs it helps to have a mulch or weedblock on the soil and you plant in the holes of the weedblock. It will help to prevent the pots from drying faster.
Your pot design does not have a fill tube so it will be hard to tell when the reservoir needs refilling. Without a fill tube you will be watering from the top until the reservoir overflows. You can probably still use the finger test to see if the soil needs more water. Usually on SIPs it helps to have a mulch or weedblock on the soil and you plant in the holes of the weedblock. It will help to prevent the pots from drying faster.
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Do those SIPs have instructions, saying how much water is in the reservoir? This is a good thing to know, to figure out how frequently to water. Here is my experience, and methods, for adjusting this, depending on the plants, and the various SIPs.
My old Earthboxes look much like your SIPs, but with a fill tube, not a side filler, just a small side overflow. These have a 2 gal reservoir, but more recent ones are 3 gal, so they learned that larger is better, up to a point. I learned the first year that planting 4 cucumber plants, as Earthbox recommended on their website, the soil would be totally dried out in less than a day, and this was with a plastic cover! 2 large tomatoes would also dry them out, while 2 cherry tomatoes wouldn't dry them, despite having large vines.
So I set up my drip lines, with 2 gal/hr emitters, to go into the fill tubes, on a timer, to go on twice a day, and initially, I watch to see how long it takes to get the containers to just start overflowing, then 12 hrs later, I check the depth of the water by sticking a dry bamboo stick in the fill tube. Early in the season, since plants are small, and it's cooler, I don't have to water every day, but once it gets hot, and plants are getting larger, I have to do it, twice a day, to prevent overflow - just run it 20 minutes each time, maybe a little more, which would be about 1 1/3 gal per day, but when it gets very hot, it will need to be increased, and I do that by increasing it to 3 times a day, instead of increasing to the point of overflowing - this way, I don't waste water. The homemade SIPs I made to have much larger reservoirs, and only run those timers twice a day, even in extreme heat. The cucumbers I grow in bucket SIPs, which have a lot more water, for just one plant.
Here's one of the first ones planted this year, showing the cover I put on, and how I tuck it down the side. This way, any rain is not wasted! And you can see the watering system - you definitely don't want to water all those by hand!
One of the SIPs with tomatoes, planted on 5-1, Big Beef on L, Brandy Boy F2 on R. by pepperhead212, on Flickr
Here's one from a couple years ago, with 2 cherries, in late May - not even a month after planting!
Cherry Bomb 5-29. by pepperhead212, on Flickr
And here are some cherries, on just 6-16 the year before. As you can see, you don't need to grow dwarfs!
Cherry tomatoes, on just 6-16 by pepperhead212, on Flickr
My old Earthboxes look much like your SIPs, but with a fill tube, not a side filler, just a small side overflow. These have a 2 gal reservoir, but more recent ones are 3 gal, so they learned that larger is better, up to a point. I learned the first year that planting 4 cucumber plants, as Earthbox recommended on their website, the soil would be totally dried out in less than a day, and this was with a plastic cover! 2 large tomatoes would also dry them out, while 2 cherry tomatoes wouldn't dry them, despite having large vines.
So I set up my drip lines, with 2 gal/hr emitters, to go into the fill tubes, on a timer, to go on twice a day, and initially, I watch to see how long it takes to get the containers to just start overflowing, then 12 hrs later, I check the depth of the water by sticking a dry bamboo stick in the fill tube. Early in the season, since plants are small, and it's cooler, I don't have to water every day, but once it gets hot, and plants are getting larger, I have to do it, twice a day, to prevent overflow - just run it 20 minutes each time, maybe a little more, which would be about 1 1/3 gal per day, but when it gets very hot, it will need to be increased, and I do that by increasing it to 3 times a day, instead of increasing to the point of overflowing - this way, I don't waste water. The homemade SIPs I made to have much larger reservoirs, and only run those timers twice a day, even in extreme heat. The cucumbers I grow in bucket SIPs, which have a lot more water, for just one plant.
Here's one of the first ones planted this year, showing the cover I put on, and how I tuck it down the side. This way, any rain is not wasted! And you can see the watering system - you definitely don't want to water all those by hand!
One of the SIPs with tomatoes, planted on 5-1, Big Beef on L, Brandy Boy F2 on R. by pepperhead212, on Flickr
Here's one from a couple years ago, with 2 cherries, in late May - not even a month after planting!
Cherry Bomb 5-29. by pepperhead212, on Flickr
And here are some cherries, on just 6-16 the year before. As you can see, you don't need to grow dwarfs!
Cherry tomatoes, on just 6-16 by pepperhead212, on Flickr
I had similar experience with SIPs. I made my own out of 5 gallon buckets and totes. I had a 2 gallon reservoir and 10 gallons of soil, This is fine for smaller plants. But larger plants like tomatoes 10 gallons is not enough. When the plants are fully in production they fill the reservoir with roots and still need to be watered daily. I used plastic bags with the white side out. It kept the weeds out and preserved moisture.
In the end, I changed my method and just drilled holes 2 inches above the bottom of the container. The cover that I used as a separator often collapsed and it caused more issues than it was worth. If I used Leon's method of support and used PVC or French drain tubing, it might have worked better. but letting the bottom stay muddy is easier makes it easier to set up the container. I don't need a fill tube either as I can water it like a regular container.
Looking at the OP's picture there may be some other problems. The containers don't look that big or wide. The plants look small now, but they may not have enough growing space as they get bigger.
Pepperhead, you do bring up a good point. Since the OP is a busy person, hand watering takes a lot of time. Containers have to be watered more often than plants in the ground. In either case it would be good for him to automate the watering with a drip irrigation system and a timer so he would not have to spend time watering everyday, although he should still be checking the plants at least for a few minutes everyday for bugs and feeling the soil to see if the irrigation needs to be adjusted.
In the end, I changed my method and just drilled holes 2 inches above the bottom of the container. The cover that I used as a separator often collapsed and it caused more issues than it was worth. If I used Leon's method of support and used PVC or French drain tubing, it might have worked better. but letting the bottom stay muddy is easier makes it easier to set up the container. I don't need a fill tube either as I can water it like a regular container.
Looking at the OP's picture there may be some other problems. The containers don't look that big or wide. The plants look small now, but they may not have enough growing space as they get bigger.
Pepperhead, you do bring up a good point. Since the OP is a busy person, hand watering takes a lot of time. Containers have to be watered more often than plants in the ground. In either case it would be good for him to automate the watering with a drip irrigation system and a timer so he would not have to spend time watering everyday, although he should still be checking the plants at least for a few minutes everyday for bugs and feeling the soil to see if the irrigation needs to be adjusted.
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thanks for the replies, any advice on a timer for the drip system?
I have run into some trouble ...I am sad to say, the water pump on my well went out - still not fixed. The trouble I have run into stems from:
1. possible over fertilization, I told my cousin to add some to the plants when I was away and...
Directions: mix 1 cap full of - 2 gallons of water. I think he forgot the "water" part.
I will go out and take some pictures, its 9am here beautiful Monday morning. Although, I have been scared to look this morning. The wind was bashing last night another problem.
Also, I think I may have not watered them properly after this incident of possible over fertilization. Because they went from the pictures of the plants inside my house - to looking very rough in about a day and a half. I notice that the soil does dry out very quickly in the boxes. As the plants declined in health I could not find or figure out if they needed more water or if they were over watered.
they either have taken too much fertilizer, too little water, or compounding negative impacts from weather conditions.
I am going to go snap a few pictures. I feel bad, but I still have some seeds and maybe I have time to sprout some vegetables and then try to transplant them back into the boxes in a few weeks / months.
yesterday I put up the fence around the other garden I planted the seeds to that garden 2 weeks ago, there may be a few plants sprouting, it is hard to tell. I need to hoe the garden. Since I have not had water (well), this is difficult, but Luckly we got some rain here in Colorado last week.
I have a drip system on the trees around my house, and probably have all the supplies to build one for the boxes except a timer, I assume they sell those at Lowes? or there is a cool store by me, its huge!!! I have not had time to check it out yet. There Website is https://tagawagardens.com/
I'm not sure about getting more starter plants and placing them in the boxes, or if I have time to plant some seeds and when they sprout transfer them to the boxes? The starter plants were somewhat expensive. I have two tomatoes plants that could potentially or need to be transferred to the boxes? I will provide pictures. I hope something survives the fiasco over here, any tips on starting seeds, I was thinking of using the extra dirt that I have?
Okay, I will go snap some pictures and post this, have a great day everyone!!!
I have run into some trouble ...I am sad to say, the water pump on my well went out - still not fixed. The trouble I have run into stems from:
1. possible over fertilization, I told my cousin to add some to the plants when I was away and...
Directions: mix 1 cap full of - 2 gallons of water. I think he forgot the "water" part.
I will go out and take some pictures, its 9am here beautiful Monday morning. Although, I have been scared to look this morning. The wind was bashing last night another problem.
Also, I think I may have not watered them properly after this incident of possible over fertilization. Because they went from the pictures of the plants inside my house - to looking very rough in about a day and a half. I notice that the soil does dry out very quickly in the boxes. As the plants declined in health I could not find or figure out if they needed more water or if they were over watered.
they either have taken too much fertilizer, too little water, or compounding negative impacts from weather conditions.
I am going to go snap a few pictures. I feel bad, but I still have some seeds and maybe I have time to sprout some vegetables and then try to transplant them back into the boxes in a few weeks / months.
yesterday I put up the fence around the other garden I planted the seeds to that garden 2 weeks ago, there may be a few plants sprouting, it is hard to tell. I need to hoe the garden. Since I have not had water (well), this is difficult, but Luckly we got some rain here in Colorado last week.
I have a drip system on the trees around my house, and probably have all the supplies to build one for the boxes except a timer, I assume they sell those at Lowes? or there is a cool store by me, its huge!!! I have not had time to check it out yet. There Website is https://tagawagardens.com/
I'm not sure about getting more starter plants and placing them in the boxes, or if I have time to plant some seeds and when they sprout transfer them to the boxes? The starter plants were somewhat expensive. I have two tomatoes plants that could potentially or need to be transferred to the boxes? I will provide pictures. I hope something survives the fiasco over here, any tips on starting seeds, I was thinking of using the extra dirt that I have?
Okay, I will go snap some pictures and post this, have a great day everyone!!!
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- Joined: Thu Apr 21, 2022 4:24 pm
- Location: Colorado, Zone 5b
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- Joined: Thu Apr 21, 2022 4:24 pm
- Location: Colorado, Zone 5b
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- Posts: 28
- Joined: Thu Apr 21, 2022 4:24 pm
- Location: Colorado, Zone 5b
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I have two 4 outlet timers, both Melnor. One is a Bluetooth, which I wouldn't recommend, unless they have improved it - I have to be within about 10' of it, to program it. Also, I have to go in on the app and pause each outlet individually for a rain delay, while the other delays all on one click. Otherwise, it's not bad - easy to turn on briefly to use the manual hose I have on one of the outlets; some have been sort of a pain to do this with. I don't see the other one offered anymore - only thing close is a model for over $200.00, while this was a little over $40! This is because they are making all these things "smart" now, for much higher prices.
I also have a 1 outlet Orbit timer that's ok, but another one that is a pain to just set on for a brief period. And that one doesn't have a rain delay - I just turn that faucet off for a few days.
What kinds of plants are you talking about having to re-start, or buy starts of? Tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers are pretty much past the time you can start seeds, but squash, cucumbers, okra, and many others can be direct seeded, and you'll be better off than buying plants for them. You can save some time starting those inside, but it's not necessary.
I also have a 1 outlet Orbit timer that's ok, but another one that is a pain to just set on for a brief period. And that one doesn't have a rain delay - I just turn that faucet off for a few days.
What kinds of plants are you talking about having to re-start, or buy starts of? Tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers are pretty much past the time you can start seeds, but squash, cucumbers, okra, and many others can be direct seeded, and you'll be better off than buying plants for them. You can save some time starting those inside, but it's not necessary.