Mandrake unbelievably stubborn seed
I got some mandragora officinarum seeds and tried planting the seeds directly, hot water scarification, cold stratification and combinations of each and I just can't get any sprouts, I can control the water, humidity, light, temperature and soil and I just can't get them to grow, the remaining seeds are stored in the fridge, I got two seeds planted two nights ago and I got two seeds left in the fridge and I'm hoping that someone can give me a mandrake from seed for dummies guide, should I toss the planted seed in the fridge for a cold stratification, should I scarify the remaining two seeds and try a different method? The ideal temperature? An additive to the soil (using Premier potting mix)?
Siberian Ginseng, the next stubborn one
I have some dried berries with instructions to soak in water for 24 hours, six months warm stratify and 30 days cold stratification, berries are stored in fridge as per instructions, I followed the instructions with no luck, my current planting attempts I have moved outside in hopes of sprouts in the spring an I am hoping for advice on how to attempt planting the remaining berries.
Bloodroot, the last stubborn seed
Same story, got seeds, cold storage. I planted the seeds in small pots and stratified them in moist potting mix the fridge for 80 days, no sign of any mold or other growth formation, then 80 days of warm stratification then back into the fridge for 80 days, been three months and no sprouts, so I moved them to the balcony for a more natural cold stratification if the bloody pigeons stop trying to eat the seeds. I got some more seeds and again same story; hoping for a bloodroot from seed for dummies guide.
I know I'm asking quite a bit but any information regarding the step by step process would be immensely helpful
While I have not grown mandrake, the void you are trying to grow over is a destructive drying of your seed before cold stratification. This is true I believe in all three you mention.KCarver wrote:I got some mandragora officinarum seeds and tried planting the seeds directly, hot water scarification, cold stratification and combinations of each and I just can't get any sprouts, I can control the water, humidity, light, temperature and soil and I just can't get them to grow, the remaining seeds are stored in the fridge, I got two seeds planted two nights ago and I got two seeds left in the fridge and I'm hoping that someone can give me a mandrake from seed for dummies guide, should I toss the planted seed in the fridge for a cold stratification, should I scarify the remaining two seeds and try a different method? The ideal temperature? An additive to the soil (using Premier potting mix)?
Ginseng, is ginseng, ginseng. Slip off fruit from seed, and start to cold stratify seed. Expect to loose at least a year due to drying seed, If it ever germinates.KCarver wrote:Siberian Ginseng,
I have some dried berries with instructions to soak in water for 24 hours, six months warm stratify and 30 days cold stratification, berries are stored in fridge as per instructions, I followed the instructions with no luck, my current planting attempts I have moved outside in hopes of sprouts in the spring an I am hoping for advice on how to attempt planting the remaining berries.
Bloodroot seed has the texture of a gummi bear. I fear dried seed is screwed. The only way I got this seed to germinate was to take fresh ripe seed off of the parent, and to plant those seeds direct to their own pot. Leaving that pot outdoors (or in cold frame). Viable seed will germinate in the next spring.KCarver wrote:Bloodroot,
Same story, got seeds, cold storage. I planted the seeds in small pots and stratified them in moist potting mix the fridge for 80 days, no sign of any mold or other growth formation, then 80 days of warm stratification then back into the fridge for 80 days, been three months and no sprouts, so I moved them to the balcony for a more natural cold stratification if the bloody pigeons stop trying to eat the seeds. I got some more seeds and again same story; hoping for a bloodroot from seed for dummies guide.
The bloodroot seeds I bought from Prairie Moon online came with special refrigeration instructions. The remaining seeds are now soaking in water, I'll plant them in pots and leave on the balcony for cold stratification.
I took some of the remaining Siberian ginseng berries which are soaking in water at the moment, I'll harvest the seeds tonight, plant them in a pot and out on the balcony.
The mandrake I just planted, I'm thinking of putting that pot outside as well unless there's any objections or better ideas.
I took some of the remaining Siberian ginseng berries which are soaking in water at the moment, I'll harvest the seeds tonight, plant them in a pot and out on the balcony.
The mandrake I just planted, I'm thinking of putting that pot outside as well unless there's any objections or better ideas.
All of these forest plants are just barely civilized. Like a half grown cat they will keep tipping stuff off the counter, Cause they can.
I used to fret and fiddle with ginseng, and finally stopped. I just toss them under what ever I have sought for shade (grape trellis works well). It takes till the following autumn for those red berries to give away that a new crop has come along.
I am in the middle (about year four) of re-establishing blood-root at my daughters camp ground. As soon as they set seed I will finally feel vindicated.
I dunno if I will live long enough to see C. acaule, pubescens, or regina, make babies from seed.
Apios is rather easier from tuber. Although I'd give about anything for some beans to barter with.
I will shortly take my first batch of H canadensis (goldenseal) out of the fridge and set them into their wintersown tote. The seed has a nice shiney hard coat. And looks head and shoulders more ready to grow than bloodroot.
I used to fret and fiddle with ginseng, and finally stopped. I just toss them under what ever I have sought for shade (grape trellis works well). It takes till the following autumn for those red berries to give away that a new crop has come along.
I am in the middle (about year four) of re-establishing blood-root at my daughters camp ground. As soon as they set seed I will finally feel vindicated.
I dunno if I will live long enough to see C. acaule, pubescens, or regina, make babies from seed.
Apios is rather easier from tuber. Although I'd give about anything for some beans to barter with.
I will shortly take my first batch of H canadensis (goldenseal) out of the fridge and set them into their wintersown tote. The seed has a nice shiney hard coat. And looks head and shoulders more ready to grow than bloodroot.
I love Trudi Davidoff, she has been most inspiring to my odd need to grow stuff. Her wintersown regime works well with minor tweeking.
Yesterday I mixed up a wheelbarrow of one part each granite-grit, peat moss, and pine bark mulch.
I shallowly filled a nine inch paper-white pan with my soil and laid on about 40 sprouting castenea pumila (chinkapin). I covered them rather deeply. I nested the pot up to its rim outdoors into a garden bed. And I mulched it thickly too. The barrier plank is still pending.
All chestnut family trees are very fragile in the time between being a nut and a seedling. So all this bundling and canoodling is to protect seed from frost this first year. Once we get past this first year even these tiny cousins of chestnut are pretty tough trees.
Yesterday I mixed up a wheelbarrow of one part each granite-grit, peat moss, and pine bark mulch.
I shallowly filled a nine inch paper-white pan with my soil and laid on about 40 sprouting castenea pumila (chinkapin). I covered them rather deeply. I nested the pot up to its rim outdoors into a garden bed. And I mulched it thickly too. The barrier plank is still pending.
All chestnut family trees are very fragile in the time between being a nut and a seedling. So all this bundling and canoodling is to protect seed from frost this first year. Once we get past this first year even these tiny cousins of chestnut are pretty tough trees.