They are also somewhat portable. My tomatoes were not because they were placed around the trellis and the trellis was not attached to the container. Eight foot tomatoes are hard to move anyway, but peppers and plants that don't require a trellis could be moved.
I started trying out the self watering containers at the behest of a friend. She has to travel a lot because of her job so her plants often have to go awhile without regular watering. I water everyday so it was not so much an issue for me, but I did use less water because of the reservoir. I liked the containers mainly because of nematodes which are very common and would limit my choices a lot. I am already limited by viral, fungal and environmental issues that limit choices as well. Besides that, I prefer to plant big plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and toscano kale in pots. They would take up a lot of space in my small vegetable garden, so I prefer to plant annual and smaller plants in the veggie patch instead.
I am with you on the tomatoes. I grew all indeterminate heirlooms and some did reach 8 feet, which is over 9 with the containers. Add about 20 lbs of tomatoes all in various stages of development and it is a challenge to move them. The box itself has to weigh 80# when wet.
Picture of my son standing next to tomatoes at about mid season.
I have the same soil issues you have. Specifically, root knot nematodes, and forget sewing seeds directly because earwigs and mole crickets will snuff them out before they reach their first true leaves. Not to mention the torrential rains blasting all the soil stuff up onto the lower portions of the plants.
What led me to containers was studying industrial agriculture. How they were able to grow non-native vegetables here. Basically, they sterilize the soil with gas like they use to kill termites in buildings. Then they cover the raised beds with fabric or plastic mulch covers. The self watering containers best emulates that practice, I think. Like cutting a section out of a commercial raised bed, minus the nasty poisons. With the containers, I was able to use BT as a barrier around the containers as a first step of prevention. I could mostly get through a whole season without spraying anything 'on' the plants. Still, it was an involved process. Had to keep my eye out for stink bugs and cut worms. I always have lizards on my plants. They do a pretty good job with the bugs.
Here's a "Perone Sprayless" overgrowing it's cage 45 days into season.
Picture of my son standing next to tomatoes at about mid season.
I have the same soil issues you have. Specifically, root knot nematodes, and forget sewing seeds directly because earwigs and mole crickets will snuff them out before they reach their first true leaves. Not to mention the torrential rains blasting all the soil stuff up onto the lower portions of the plants.
What led me to containers was studying industrial agriculture. How they were able to grow non-native vegetables here. Basically, they sterilize the soil with gas like they use to kill termites in buildings. Then they cover the raised beds with fabric or plastic mulch covers. The self watering containers best emulates that practice, I think. Like cutting a section out of a commercial raised bed, minus the nasty poisons. With the containers, I was able to use BT as a barrier around the containers as a first step of prevention. I could mostly get through a whole season without spraying anything 'on' the plants. Still, it was an involved process. Had to keep my eye out for stink bugs and cut worms. I always have lizards on my plants. They do a pretty good job with the bugs.
Here's a "Perone Sprayless" overgrowing it's cage 45 days into season.
Yeah tomatoes get really big. I have a 7 foot high CRW trellis that is wrapped around two 18 gallon tubs and another tub between them. If I have three tomatoes on the trellis which actually starts on the ground not the top of the tubs, they get tangled together and then they start reaching for the kaffir lime on the other side. When they get to the top or sometimes the middle they start to hang down and reach across. Right now my black cherry is bare bottomed (just weeds in the tub itself), with just green leaves at the very top. It is still producing a few tomatoes and the birds are still getting most of them. The sungold is puny by past standards but it is hanging on and producing tomatoes. It actually out produces the black cherry and I get more of them.
First cabbage from the boxes. Weighs in at 7lbs. 2 more left to go in that same SWC.
It could have grown more from the way it was going but at some point, enough is more than adequate.
I didn't grow cabbage for any other reason than I liked the way they look when they are growing. Didn't know if they would be easy, or difficult. I do like to eat cabbage, though, so it was worth doing.
This particular type is. . ."Early Flat Dutch."
It could have grown more from the way it was going but at some point, enough is more than adequate.
I didn't grow cabbage for any other reason than I liked the way they look when they are growing. Didn't know if they would be easy, or difficult. I do like to eat cabbage, though, so it was worth doing.
This particular type is. . ."Early Flat Dutch."
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pepperhead212
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Looks great! I was thinking of growing some of my late season brassicas in an EB, just to compare the growth, but since I have to leave them covered most of the winter, I decided not to. This is because I would have to water it, whereas the ones in the ground need very little water in the winter, other than the rain or snow. And since I have to keep the water turned off to the outside most of the time, I'll have to wait until spring. I am planning on trying some early in the spring, to compare to the ones in the ground.
Some of the farmers here also use soil fumigants. They have to when the field has a lot of nematodes and they don not have a nematode resistant crop. Solarization helps but it is only going to sterilize at most the top 4-6 inches of soil and roots and nematodes will both go deeper. Some farms are using sunhemp in their fallow field as a rotation crop. It is a legume so it does some nitrogen fixing but it does also reduce nematode population.
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ng043
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ng043
I simply don't have time to cultivate soil, or combat weeds and insects and the retail costs of the products in which to control these things starts to go against the economic sense of growing one's own food in short order, especially when factoring in labor.
I really didn't do anything other than add water after the initial startup. Maybe 4 applications of neem/soap when it was still warmer weather. If I had grown these in the ground, the cover leaves would be riddled with holes. At least here in Florida, my experience has been that things grow almost twice as fast in these containers, with a more consistent and predictable level of production/size, weighed against the time I 'personally' have available to commit to gardening.
Before container gardening, I was dedicating a good bit of resources to compost alone. And that's what it took to grow comparaive yields and size to SWC here.
I really didn't do anything other than add water after the initial startup. Maybe 4 applications of neem/soap when it was still warmer weather. If I had grown these in the ground, the cover leaves would be riddled with holes. At least here in Florida, my experience has been that things grow almost twice as fast in these containers, with a more consistent and predictable level of production/size, weighed against the time I 'personally' have available to commit to gardening.
Before container gardening, I was dedicating a good bit of resources to compost alone. And that's what it took to grow comparaive yields and size to SWC here.
I like the earthboxes for the tomatoes because they need so much water especially in summer and the daily wilting weakens them. I still grow tomatoes in regular containers too, but I have learned to make those containers much bigger than I used to. I used to plant tomatoes in 14 inch pots. They did o.k. but did have the daily wilt problem and drought stress attracts pests. In the 18 gallon tubs, the tomatoes don't really wilt anymore and I do water them everyday in summer, but less now since it has been cold and the soil dries slower.
I would prefer to grow in ground than in containers. I actually use containers to restrict size, contain roots, and if I need special conditions. I grow the tomatoes in containers because they would take up too much space in the vegetable garden, ginger, taro because I need to protect them from nematodes but also because I need to keep the roots confined. I have the citrus trees in pots to dwarf them. Most of my peppers can tolerate smaller pots for years so, I grow them mostly in pots. I don't like to have to work around perennials in the vegetable garden if I can help it. I had a potted Mexican oregano in my vegetable garden and it rooted and I do have to work around that now along with the Aloe I temporarily moved to a corner of the garden and they never left.
I would prefer to grow in ground than in containers. I actually use containers to restrict size, contain roots, and if I need special conditions. I grow the tomatoes in containers because they would take up too much space in the vegetable garden, ginger, taro because I need to protect them from nematodes but also because I need to keep the roots confined. I have the citrus trees in pots to dwarf them. Most of my peppers can tolerate smaller pots for years so, I grow them mostly in pots. I don't like to have to work around perennials in the vegetable garden if I can help it. I had a potted Mexican oregano in my vegetable garden and it rooted and I do have to work around that now along with the Aloe I temporarily moved to a corner of the garden and they never left.
Pretty much the same reasons here. This time of year is the exception, when insect/disease issues are low, it's the portability to where I can chase the weaker seasonal sun with them.
I had the same issues with the big tomatoes. I was having to water twice/day. I too modified the containers to have a larger water reservoir, and this time around, I will have an automatic watering system on them and some sturdier cage arrangements.
I found I tend to grow way too many tomatoes. I think I am just going to grow one per container and keep it to 4 varieties. Also, I think I will remember at least some of them can be used and fried green.
I had the same issues with the big tomatoes. I was having to water twice/day. I too modified the containers to have a larger water reservoir, and this time around, I will have an automatic watering system on them and some sturdier cage arrangements.
I found I tend to grow way too many tomatoes. I think I am just going to grow one per container and keep it to 4 varieties. Also, I think I will remember at least some of them can be used and fried green.
SWC/Earthboxes are still producing monster cabbage and other things following in a rather convenient succession. Meaning, as a large cabbage is harvested, kale and chard and spinach need to be used, and then the cycle starts over again. I like cabbage but these are huge, so it is good that they are ready at different times. I think this is a favorable trait with heirlooms over the hybrid types for the home garden.
That's a big cabbage. I tried to grow cabbage once, it took up a lot of space in the ground and the cabbage only got to a softball size then something ate out the center of it.
That actually is one of the better things about earth boxes, since the space is so limited you have to limit how many plants are in them so you don't have to worry so much about over supply.
That actually is one of the better things about earth boxes, since the space is so limited you have to limit how many plants are in them so you don't have to worry so much about over supply.
These are from that round, 20 gallon tote that I cannot find anymore. The cabbage in the above post is #2 out of 3 that were grown/growing in that pot. If they hadn't grown over on their sides, there is no way they would have fit. I am surprised the nutrients were enough for all 3.
Two broccoli, along with two cabbage were really too much for the regular earthbox. 3 would be the max for an EB as well. This was only on 5-6 hrs of sun daily. 8 hours would have been interesting, considering how well these grew with less.
This is my first real go at cool season gardening here. If I were to do a comparative analysis, it's much more productive in both yield and cost. I need to start thinking of September as being the start of growing season here. This would give me the most yield and variety, with a perpetual growing season spanning 9 months.
I'd say that one of the biggest benefits of containers is the plants being off the ground. I also noticed that those few insects that would scale the sides of the container, had a real high probability of being noticed, and then snapped up by one of the 10 or more lizards that took refuge in my mini oasis of veggies.
Two broccoli, along with two cabbage were really too much for the regular earthbox. 3 would be the max for an EB as well. This was only on 5-6 hrs of sun daily. 8 hours would have been interesting, considering how well these grew with less.
This is my first real go at cool season gardening here. If I were to do a comparative analysis, it's much more productive in both yield and cost. I need to start thinking of September as being the start of growing season here. This would give me the most yield and variety, with a perpetual growing season spanning 9 months.
I'd say that one of the biggest benefits of containers is the plants being off the ground. I also noticed that those few insects that would scale the sides of the container, had a real high probability of being noticed, and then snapped up by one of the 10 or more lizards that took refuge in my mini oasis of veggies.
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pepperhead212
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Don't discount the bags that potting mix comes in for mulch covers if you end up using bagged. The 2 cu ft size will yield two thick plastic mulch covers that last a few seasons.
I was just up in your neck (Deptford) of the woods and am planning a move up that way hopefully sooner than later. Try to see if I can manage a green thumb in the "Garden State."
I will still probably use these up there as well, being as I have so much time invested in this type of gardening by now.
I was just up in your neck (Deptford) of the woods and am planning a move up that way hopefully sooner than later. Try to see if I can manage a green thumb in the "Garden State."
I will still probably use these up there as well, being as I have so much time invested in this type of gardening by now.
Here is some Swiss Chard currently growing in a 5 gal self waterer. This is still part of my first attempt at gardening over the winter here and with greens. I never really had to grow greens growing up in the South because a lot of people grew them.
Some spinach in another SW bucket. These are orphans left over too long in the starter pots. That's what I use the buckets for. A mix match of orphan plants or experimental purposes to where I don't have a lot of time or materials invested. All of these containers are the same principle as the EB.
Not sure that kale is on the list of things I would go out of my way to eat, but the plants look cool and are easy to grow. This is more of an EB clone with the 18 gal totes. They are a good size for this.
The original Earthboxes still look pretty new condition after 6-7 years by now and still clean up well. The totes don't like the UV exposure so much. I think I will likely always have at least a few of the original Earthboxes. They are a good size for a number of things.
Some spinach in another SW bucket. These are orphans left over too long in the starter pots. That's what I use the buckets for. A mix match of orphan plants or experimental purposes to where I don't have a lot of time or materials invested. All of these containers are the same principle as the EB.
Not sure that kale is on the list of things I would go out of my way to eat, but the plants look cool and are easy to grow. This is more of an EB clone with the 18 gal totes. They are a good size for this.
The original Earthboxes still look pretty new condition after 6-7 years by now and still clean up well. The totes don't like the UV exposure so much. I think I will likely always have at least a few of the original Earthboxes. They are a good size for a number of things.
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pepperhead212
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Kale is a super food and very popular now. The dino kale you have is actually sweeter than the curly kale that most people get. It tastes better after a dusting of frost. It does have a strong cabbage flavor so most people make smoothies with it adding fruit like bananas, grapes, melons,passion fruit, papaya, pineapple. It is best to freeze the fruit first.
That's good to know. I have eaten it recently sauteed in olive oil, some red wine vinegar with garlic sliced really thin and vegetable stock and it was pretty good. Now that I've got spinach more or less figured out, I will grow more of it next year. I had never eaten spinach 'this' fresh before and there is quite a difference even over the grocery store version of fresh produce.imafan26 wrote:Kale is a super food and very popular now. The dino kale you have is actually sweeter than the curly kale that most people get. It tastes better after a dusting of frost. It does have a strong cabbage flavor so most people make smoothies with it adding fruit like bananas, grapes, melons,passion fruit, papaya, pineapple. It is best to freeze the fruit first.
About to plant pole (Roma) beans, which is one of my favorite fresh vegetables to grow and eat. Once the kids discovered they could be eaten raw, many never made it into the kitchen. Probably one of the most productive for limited square footage being as that they grow vertically and don't mind crowding.
Once I get past beans and tomatoes, I will have had about 8 solid months of growing season. With about half the physical input with the containers, compared to conventional, just if you consider the doing away with the weeding and pest chores and time off from the shovel as well.
I start my tomatoes and peppers about 3-4 weeks ahead of last threat of frost under fluorescent (4ft shop lights with 6500k daylight bulbs) lights. By the time they get to the planters, they are already starting to show flowers and they have fat trunks going in. Then they get buried almost up to the first set of true leaves and they root from there on down which makes for a robust root system early on.pepperhead212 wrote:Great greens, Bote! Can't wait 'til I get these things going, but it's a ways off here. In the meantime, I'll spend time making a few more.
It's a much easier way to garden, especially if you have a full time job.
I have shown some friends how to get started. Usually with just one Earthbox, or tote. One guy that lives about 5 blocks from me planted collard greens in one tote and they were huge. His mom couldn't get over how little sand they had in them like they get when planted in the ground.applestar wrote:Thanks for the inspiration
I'm getting ambitious looking at all these pictures, too!
He is adding two more containers now.
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pepperhead212
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I want to thank imafan26 again for that link to the file for making "earthboxes", as I have now made 7 of them, with more to come! Tonight, in about 45 min. I made two with 4 gal buckets inside 5 gal. The large ones were more time consuming, for sure, but since I made 4 of the same, it went faster than if they were all made with totally different tubs. One was made using the two bucket method, only because it had a hole in it, so I wouldn't have been able to use both. The inside had a large gap around the perimeter, which I figure I will jam some mesh net into. The one tub method is cheaper, obviously, and I made a pattern, which I used to cut all of the lids with, and all of the support and wicking columns were the same for the 4 tubs, so it is definitely best to do more than one! Here are the photos of the different types: https://s24.photobucket.com/user/pepperh ... t=6&page=1
Here is another earthbox tweak. I have different bases for tomatoes and such but this one is for pole beans, or you could put more cross ties in for cukes or anything else that climbs really. I use these because I can easily load it on a hand truck and move it around without disturbing the trellis. Pardon the photo quality but the idea is kind of easy to see. They are cheap to make and will last for years and you can make them more adaptable to add on other types of supports.
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applestar
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I noticed a lot of the Earthbox users say they use ProMix BX -- straight? Nothing added?
Is ProMix BX considered "organic"? -- if growing in plastic container of any kind can be still "organic"....
ProMix BX doesn't have any fertilizers in it right? Just mycos and "bio fungicide" (whatever that is)?
Is ProMix BX plus organic fertilizer like TomatoTone better costwise than buying organic potting mix like Espoma? ($15 for 2 cu ft at local Ace's)
...does anyone use Espoma organic potting mix in Earthbox type planter? If so do you add fertilizer from the start?
Where do you get yours? Amazon prices (with shipping) are horrendous when comparing the Espoma Organic Potting Mix to the local Ace's price.
Is ProMix BX considered "organic"? -- if growing in plastic container of any kind can be still "organic"....
ProMix BX doesn't have any fertilizers in it right? Just mycos and "bio fungicide" (whatever that is)?
Is ProMix BX plus organic fertilizer like TomatoTone better costwise than buying organic potting mix like Espoma? ($15 for 2 cu ft at local Ace's)
...does anyone use Espoma organic potting mix in Earthbox type planter? If so do you add fertilizer from the start?
Where do you get yours? Amazon prices (with shipping) are horrendous when comparing the Espoma Organic Potting Mix to the local Ace's price.
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pepperhead212
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skiingjeff
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We use premix BX 2 parts to 1 part mushroom compost in our "earth boxes". It seems to be working great! I don't have any new pics of our boxes but here are the pics from our initial planting of our broccoli and kohlrabi starts:
They are so much bigger now so I'll have to take a new pic! So far we love the results and are glad we decided to use the "earth boxes" 
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pepperhead212
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applestar,
The kind I got is Promix HP, which has no limestone or vermiculite added to it (which I add, anyway). It was a 3.8 cu ft bale, for $41.00 More porous, thus better for the hydroponics, and maybe the earthbox types, as well. I'll probably add some coir (maybe 1:5) and some vermiculite, as well as the dolomite, and a handful of the "rare earth" powder I use in the hydro.
The kind I got is Promix HP, which has no limestone or vermiculite added to it (which I add, anyway). It was a 3.8 cu ft bale, for $41.00 More porous, thus better for the hydroponics, and maybe the earthbox types, as well. I'll probably add some coir (maybe 1:5) and some vermiculite, as well as the dolomite, and a handful of the "rare earth" powder I use in the hydro.
You are welcome. I love my earth box, but I do admit in my sun, the rubber maid tub is not uv resistant and it becomes brittle in about 4 years and needs to be replaced. But they are still cheap to make; just a little time consuming cutting out the lids. I can reuse the fill tubes.
I had my tubs on a bench off the ground and with a bamboo and CRW trellis 7 ft high and 7 ft long down the middle with 5 gallon and 18 gallon self watering containers on either side. I did cheat. I had a drip system on a timer to automatically fill the fill tubes. In the beginning it only needed filling once a week but when the tomatoes were in peak production in summer they soaked up 4 gallons of water a day and needed filling daily. I had chili peppers in 5 gallon buckets and I also had regular boxes (recycled styrofoam fish boxes from the fish distributor) on the ground in front of the bench for herbs (stevia, garlic chives, green onions, Mexican tarragon, basil). Unfortunately the tomatoes were attacked by tomato yellow leaf curl virus and the basil got downy mildew. After 4 years the diseases continue to persist, so the trellis was dismantled to make room for a hydroponic demonstration. I have more material to make more earth boxes at home and salvaged the buckets and fill tubes from the other containers. The containers were too brittle to even move.
The promix you have is the organic one. That is the one with micorrhyzzae.
There are other promixes in the black bag and sunshine #4 which are essentially potting soil peat moss and perlite and can be with or without added fertilizer or lime.
I had my tubs on a bench off the ground and with a bamboo and CRW trellis 7 ft high and 7 ft long down the middle with 5 gallon and 18 gallon self watering containers on either side. I did cheat. I had a drip system on a timer to automatically fill the fill tubes. In the beginning it only needed filling once a week but when the tomatoes were in peak production in summer they soaked up 4 gallons of water a day and needed filling daily. I had chili peppers in 5 gallon buckets and I also had regular boxes (recycled styrofoam fish boxes from the fish distributor) on the ground in front of the bench for herbs (stevia, garlic chives, green onions, Mexican tarragon, basil). Unfortunately the tomatoes were attacked by tomato yellow leaf curl virus and the basil got downy mildew. After 4 years the diseases continue to persist, so the trellis was dismantled to make room for a hydroponic demonstration. I have more material to make more earth boxes at home and salvaged the buckets and fill tubes from the other containers. The containers were too brittle to even move.
The promix you have is the organic one. That is the one with micorrhyzzae.
There are other promixes in the black bag and sunshine #4 which are essentially potting soil peat moss and perlite and can be with or without added fertilizer or lime.
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pepperhead212
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I got a lot of my single plant "Earthboxes" filled and covered today. I'm starting on my big ones - got the first one filled, but I have to start cutting the covers for those, and also order more bungee cords!
https://s24.photobucket.com/user/pepperh ... sort=3&o=0
https://s24.photobucket.com/user/pepperh ... sort=3&o=0
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applestar
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Thanks for the info and pics --
@skiingjeff those look great! Looks like I will also be getting the ProMix BX -- the local distributor finder at their website pointed me to a local farmer market -- I called, somewhat skeptical, but it turns out they have a greenhouse and are selling from their own bulk-ordered stock for a very good price.
@Pepperhead, are you planting already or are you just getting ready? I've noticed you are very well organized. I really should try to do the same. I was going to run out and get a couple of those bales earlier until I realized I couldn't until I got the 20+ concrete blocks out of my SUV.
-- finally got them out and ready to wash on the driveway with my kids' help, but was too exhausted to go buy them today.
The farmer market is very close to where I usually get big bags of TomatoTone... Or do you think I should start out with VegTone per recommended plant food at Earthbox website?... So I could get started as soon as I get back from shopping tomorrow
@Imafan, I hope these 2nd hand totes will at least hold up for another year....
@skiingjeff those look great! Looks like I will also be getting the ProMix BX -- the local distributor finder at their website pointed me to a local farmer market -- I called, somewhat skeptical, but it turns out they have a greenhouse and are selling from their own bulk-ordered stock for a very good price.
@Pepperhead, are you planting already or are you just getting ready? I've noticed you are very well organized. I really should try to do the same. I was going to run out and get a couple of those bales earlier until I realized I couldn't until I got the 20+ concrete blocks out of my SUV.
-- finally got them out and ready to wash on the driveway with my kids' help, but was too exhausted to go buy them today. The farmer market is very close to where I usually get big bags of TomatoTone... Or do you think I should start out with VegTone per recommended plant food at Earthbox website?... So I could get started as soon as I get back from shopping tomorrow
@Imafan, I hope these 2nd hand totes will at least hold up for another year....
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pepperhead212
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@imafan26 - I'm wondering if the insides of the Rubbermaid tubs could be re-used, assuming it is the same model, and they haven't changed it once the outer part gets destroyed by light. I'm sure the support columns and wicking columns are re-useable, but if that cut to size lid, with all the holes cut in it could be re-used, that would be a major time saver!
I fill my EBs with drip lines, too. I had to tweak them, STS, by using different output emitters, and even had two emitters on the eggplant - the one that used the most. But I didn't grow tomatoes in it last year.
@applestar - no, I'm not planting yet, but it's not far away! I took next week off to plant tomatoes! LOL And eggplant, at the end of the week. That first large EB I got filled and covered is for my pea eggplant. Should be interesting to see how much water that thing sucks up!
Here are some of the tomatoes, while they were out hardening off today:
I wouldn't go for the tomato tone - I'd get a more balanced NPK, rather than one going toward blooming, then later, if you want to trigger blooming, you can add more P and K. And with the organic ones you have to use more, since they are less concentrated. I just used a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the trench, then put a small amount of a soluble "bloom" fertilizer in the tube every few weeks, and had great results with those eggplants and peppers.
I fill my EBs with drip lines, too. I had to tweak them, STS, by using different output emitters, and even had two emitters on the eggplant - the one that used the most. But I didn't grow tomatoes in it last year.
@applestar - no, I'm not planting yet, but it's not far away! I took next week off to plant tomatoes! LOL And eggplant, at the end of the week. That first large EB I got filled and covered is for my pea eggplant. Should be interesting to see how much water that thing sucks up!
Here are some of the tomatoes, while they were out hardening off today:
I wouldn't go for the tomato tone - I'd get a more balanced NPK, rather than one going toward blooming, then later, if you want to trigger blooming, you can add more P and K. And with the organic ones you have to use more, since they are less concentrated. I just used a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the trench, then put a small amount of a soluble "bloom" fertilizer in the tube every few weeks, and had great results with those eggplants and peppers.
the divider (lid) could be reused, but I had problems with them warping and collapsing. I may need to use more support tubes under mine. I am looking into finding styrofoam sheets to cut to fit. It should work out better. So far I have only been able to find 1/4 inch sheets, I am looking for 1/2 inch. They will be easier to cut using the old lid as a pattern, should not rot with contact with wet soil or water and should not collapse from warping.
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applestar
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- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
@pepperhead -- thanks! I was thinking along similar lines for the fertilizer... That it's probably better to start with balanced npk and use the blooming/fruiting one later. Bt hey have all the Espoma line (except the citrus one 
But maybe they can special order it.
...what's the super wispy/cut leafed one? Is it Silvery Fir Tree?
But maybe they can special order it. ...what's the super wispy/cut leafed one? Is it Silvery Fir Tree?
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pepperhead212
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 2887
- Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 1:52 pm
- Location: Woodbury NJ Zone 7a/7b
That cut leafed one is Flamingo - one I grew for the first time last year, which I got from a lady in AZ, when I was looking for heat resistant varieties. It was mild last summer, so I couldn't tell if it was, but it was the first ripe tomato of the season, including cherries! Small tomato - 2-2 1/2" - but productive all summer, and a large, vining plant. Good flavor, as well.
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skiingjeff
- Green Thumb
- Posts: 383
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:22 pm
- Location: Western Massachusetts Zone 6a
Thanks Applestar! The Promix BX does have vermiculite and perlite in it which is not as earth renewable as other things but yes, it is considered organic. Similar to Rainbow, I use and reuse plastic pots and now earth boxes so I don't feel too badly about using them. Good luck with your earth box experience.applestar wrote:Thanks for the info and pics --
@skiingjeff those look great! Looks like I will also be getting the ProMix BX -- the local distributor finder at their website pointed me to a local farmer market -- I called, somewhat skeptical, but it turns out they have a greenhouse and are selling from their own bulk-ordered stock for a very good price.
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applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30551
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Haha I know -- this is like taking a step backwards but I need to learn how this (SHOULD) work before I can start tinkering, so I'll go along with the recommendations. I like how pepperhead said he adds coir. I could maybe do that to supplement the box next year -- ProMix BX is said to last several years in the same box with just supplementing (and the dolomitic lime and ferts) ...better value in that sense than some of the others.
@imafan, I'm not a fan of using styrofoam....
but I need to learn how this (SHOULD) work before I can start tinkering, so I'll go along with the recommendations. I like how pepperhead said he adds coir. I could maybe do that to supplement the box next year -- ProMix BX is said to last several years in the same box with just supplementing (and the dolomitic lime and ferts) ...better value in that sense than some of the others.@imafan, I'm not a fan of using styrofoam....
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applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30551
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
A local farm market turned out to be a pretty big operation with a second family farm near Trenton. They apparently bought a bulk load of these ProMix BX at a volume discount for their own use in their green houses and are selling them to customers out of their stock for $21.95 +tax. ...I got three... 
These are the free second hand DIY planters. Looks like he used perforated drain pipes for support and wicking columns (they are black with a green stripe if that means anything).
He only gave me the lid for one tote -- are they critical?
He only gave me the lid for one tote -- are they critical?