Propagating Coleus
Can Coleus be propagated in December?
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applestar
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Healthy coleus stem cuttings root easily any time of the year and will grow for a while as long as the mother plant didn't go to seed before cuttings were taken.
If it had, and especially if the cuttings were taken from stems that had bolted and bloomed/set seed, they are often past their prime and senescence has set in -- leaving them less vigorous and very short lived.
If you are asking about growing from seeds, they are relatively easy using basic seed growing techniques.
With both techniques you'll need to keep them relatively warm.
If it had, and especially if the cuttings were taken from stems that had bolted and bloomed/set seed, they are often past their prime and senescence has set in -- leaving them less vigorous and very short lived.
If you are asking about growing from seeds, they are relatively easy using basic seed growing techniques.
With both techniques you'll need to keep them relatively warm.
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ElizabethB
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I love Coleus! So many shapes, sizes and colors! Easy to root leaf cuttings in all purpose potting soil. Keep warm and moist - not soggy. Apple is right on about the mother plant seeding. Your cuttings won't produce if Mother has seeded. Harvest the seeds instead. The more you pinch back your coleus the fuller it will grow and the longer it will last. Don't let it flower or seed.
LOL
LOL
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purpleinopp
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As a tropical shrub, not a true annual, Coleus (now going by the moniker of Plectranthus scutellarioides) do not decline if they are permitted to make flowers. Their blooms late in the season coincide with fall in our cooler climates, and these plants are not naturally equipped to deal with cold weather, so the decline can seem to correlate to the blooms.
The flowers are highly prized by bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, so I do not remove the flowers on my plants. Every year I save TONS of cuttings for replanting the next year. Some of the cuttings have flowers on them when they are cut but that has no bearing on whether or not they will make roots. I did this for the better part of 2 decades in central OH, and have continued doing so here in AL.
The best cuttings are those about 8-15" although pieces on both sides of this range are extremely likely to root as well. They should be placed in water within a couple minutes, preferably immediately, or they can wilt. I take a bucket or jar with me to harvest them. Severed pieces that have wilted have a much lower chance of taking root.
Thicker stems that have not yet turned woody are the best bet for producing the largest possible plant for next year. Thinner, more spindly stems do propagate, but are usually slower to produce roots, and usually comprise most of my failed individuals. If the stem one wishes to preserve has become woody at its' base, cutting it high on the semi-hard portion works best for me. Right up until there is a frost, cuttings can be taken and chances of success (well above 90% survival after 3-5 months, depending on how long the weather causes them to stay inside, over the years) are about equal in soil vs. water. Almost all of mine stay in water since that takes up much less space, and many of them fit well on windowsills. At least 25% of the bottom portion should be devoted to roots, thus immersed in water or soil. Remove any foliage growth from this portion of your piece. The upper part will do better if the large leaves are removed, see below about doing this in anticipation of taking cuttings.
If storing in water, monitor closely, especially the first few weeks for discoloration and for any debris falling into the water. Debris should be removed upon notice as it will rot, and water that is anything but clear or develops any odor should be changed. Once roots form, the water becoming sour is very unlikely. Cuttings that begin to wilt should have more of the largest leaves removed but the removal of too many leaves results in insufficient mass to produce sustenance overall. Leaving as many leaves as the cutting can keep hydrated is the goal.
Seed harvested from Coleus may produce plants that look different from the parent, so although they do grow readily, this is not a reliable method for preserving a particular Coleus. Coleus seeds should not be buried for planting as they need light for germination.
With over 2,000 named cultivars out there, it's worth saving a Coleus one really likes if the idea appeals. There is no guarantee the store will have the exact same one next year.
To be a little more specific about the pinching one can do to a branching plant such as Coleus, there is tip removal and leaf removal. The usual result of removing a growth tip is for the plant to then grow two tips. When removing a leaf from a lower node on a stem, the node to which it was attached is then usually triggered to grow a new stem. They are an excellent plant for learning bonsai techniques because their responses are so reliable and the plant grows so quickly.
A couple weeks before a first frost is expected, I make a point to remove all of the large leaves from Coleus plants. This gives the infant stems at those nodes the signal to begin growing, and the trimming of harvested stems is minimal.
If any of this was not explained well, please feel free to ask. I always have time to talk about my favorite plant.
The flowers are highly prized by bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, so I do not remove the flowers on my plants. Every year I save TONS of cuttings for replanting the next year. Some of the cuttings have flowers on them when they are cut but that has no bearing on whether or not they will make roots. I did this for the better part of 2 decades in central OH, and have continued doing so here in AL.
The best cuttings are those about 8-15" although pieces on both sides of this range are extremely likely to root as well. They should be placed in water within a couple minutes, preferably immediately, or they can wilt. I take a bucket or jar with me to harvest them. Severed pieces that have wilted have a much lower chance of taking root.
Thicker stems that have not yet turned woody are the best bet for producing the largest possible plant for next year. Thinner, more spindly stems do propagate, but are usually slower to produce roots, and usually comprise most of my failed individuals. If the stem one wishes to preserve has become woody at its' base, cutting it high on the semi-hard portion works best for me. Right up until there is a frost, cuttings can be taken and chances of success (well above 90% survival after 3-5 months, depending on how long the weather causes them to stay inside, over the years) are about equal in soil vs. water. Almost all of mine stay in water since that takes up much less space, and many of them fit well on windowsills. At least 25% of the bottom portion should be devoted to roots, thus immersed in water or soil. Remove any foliage growth from this portion of your piece. The upper part will do better if the large leaves are removed, see below about doing this in anticipation of taking cuttings.
If storing in water, monitor closely, especially the first few weeks for discoloration and for any debris falling into the water. Debris should be removed upon notice as it will rot, and water that is anything but clear or develops any odor should be changed. Once roots form, the water becoming sour is very unlikely. Cuttings that begin to wilt should have more of the largest leaves removed but the removal of too many leaves results in insufficient mass to produce sustenance overall. Leaving as many leaves as the cutting can keep hydrated is the goal.
Seed harvested from Coleus may produce plants that look different from the parent, so although they do grow readily, this is not a reliable method for preserving a particular Coleus. Coleus seeds should not be buried for planting as they need light for germination.
With over 2,000 named cultivars out there, it's worth saving a Coleus one really likes if the idea appeals. There is no guarantee the store will have the exact same one next year.
To be a little more specific about the pinching one can do to a branching plant such as Coleus, there is tip removal and leaf removal. The usual result of removing a growth tip is for the plant to then grow two tips. When removing a leaf from a lower node on a stem, the node to which it was attached is then usually triggered to grow a new stem. They are an excellent plant for learning bonsai techniques because their responses are so reliable and the plant grows so quickly.
A couple weeks before a first frost is expected, I make a point to remove all of the large leaves from Coleus plants. This gives the infant stems at those nodes the signal to begin growing, and the trimming of harvested stems is minimal.
If any of this was not explained well, please feel free to ask. I always have time to talk about my favorite plant.
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applestar
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Wow that was a really informative post! 
...and it shows why I shouldn't post about plants I haven't been growing in the last decade or so
I can see how in my long-ago attempts, I may have been using cuttings from (1) already cold-affected plants or (2) woody stems either of which I may have I interpreted as "stems that have bloomed or gone to seed are not suitable for cuttings".
Would you agree that you should cut off the upper stem with buds that are starting to open from the cuttings? I wasn't clear, but Idid mean to say that stems that are starting to form flower bud can be used.
It's better/good to openly discuss any questions from a member in the thread since other members may have the same question.
...and it shows why I shouldn't post about plants I haven't been growing in the last decade or so
I can see how in my long-ago attempts, I may have been using cuttings from (1) already cold-affected plants or (2) woody stems either of which I may have I interpreted as "stems that have bloomed or gone to seed are not suitable for cuttings".
Would you agree that you should cut off the upper stem with buds that are starting to open from the cuttings? I wasn't clear, but Idid mean to say that stems that are starting to form flower bud can be used.
It's better/good to openly discuss any questions from a member in the thread since other members may have the same question.
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rainbowgardener
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purpleinopp
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Thanks, applestar & rainbow.
If I have time when dismantling my plants into cuttings, I remove the flowers, but don't always get them all. The really big leaves seem to be more of a hardship (from dehydration) for cuttings than flower stalks. Once cuttings have made roots, I try to remove the flowers before the petals fall off just because that can get messy. It's kind of like trying to stop a choir from singing, though, and that's one of the great reasons they make dust busters!
Rainbow, sounds cool! Good luck with continued success in the great state of OH!
If I have time when dismantling my plants into cuttings, I remove the flowers, but don't always get them all. The really big leaves seem to be more of a hardship (from dehydration) for cuttings than flower stalks. Once cuttings have made roots, I try to remove the flowers before the petals fall off just because that can get messy. It's kind of like trying to stop a choir from singing, though, and that's one of the great reasons they make dust busters!
Rainbow, sounds cool! Good luck with continued success in the great state of OH!
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MasonSebastian
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This is one of the hardest seeds I have experienced difficulty with, next to rosemary. I had emptied a pack of seeds to no avail, although second pack gave me only 3 seedlings which I have to divide when they grow 3" in height. Mine is green and red middle. From what I've read, coleus grows differently depending on species and I guess mine is the type which loves shade. 
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rainbowgardener
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I don't have any difficulty starting coleus from seed, but you do have to heed what purple said about they need light for germination, so don't cover them at all. I start them indoors, under lights, on heat mats. I press the seeds lightly into moist potting soil, just to be sure they are in contact with the soil, but do not cover. All the needs-light seeds that are left uncovered, I also sprinkle with a little water from the top daily, as well as my usual bottom watering, just to be sure they do not dry out, until they show signs of germinating. It should take a week to 10 days or so to germinate.